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My DIY 10G project Finally Started


ashkeenon

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Just thought i would share my 10G nano DIY log here aswell, I bought a clear seal AGA 18" length x 12" high x 12" wide the other day and some wood for a stand.

 

I started by removing the glass slides which supports a canopy and the black trim heres some photos of my progress so far not much actually i am waiting on materials.

 

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after the trim and glass has been removed

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My dog Fabio

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Wood For Stand

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Stand Design

NANO_Stand-Layout1.jpg

Sump Layout HELP!!!!!!!!

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I plan on having a built in sump in the back behind a false wall which is going to be gloss black acrylic should of been delivered today but hopefully arrive tomorow, anyway i need some help with the sump layout will this work or has anyone got suggestions to make it better. I amneeding to do something simmilar to this setup but with a 10G AGA

 

Plan_1.jpg

 

Plan on building the custom stand tonight so will post pics of the process.

 

Ash

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Here is the stand i made tonight not quite finished need to sink the nails sand it and add some molding but not sure if i am going to paint or stain it anyway heres how i made it.

 

After cutting plywood to correct sizes i glued the edge

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then clamped and drill the piolet holes & then screw together

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Some 2x4's for extra support and to keep stand square ready to add the trimming

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shot after the trim has been glued nailed and clamped one of the trims was slightly short as my compound mitre saw must of moved slightly and gave me an angled cut so its a good idea to check before you cut

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and heres the nearly finished produt

marine_log_9.jpg

 

 

Can anynbody help with the sump i got the acrylic for a false wall today so will maybe start the tank sometime this week.

 

Ash

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Hi thanks

 

It didnt take to long about 2 and a half hours with a table saw and compound mitre saw, Picture is a bit blurry i will get a better one when its not raining.

 

Im going to either finish it tomorow hopefully if i have time. Need some help with the built in sump as i have recieved my acrylic sheet for the false wall and will get silicone tomorow to glue the baffles and will get the tank up and running once the sump layout is sorted.

 

What do you think of the overflow part in the diagram, what sizes do you recomend. I was going to use 60mm wide by 40mm high should i make this bigger maybe with an angle or just keep them the same length.

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Well i sanded the stand tonight and filled the nail holes just need to add a door and some moulding around the bottom and stain it.

 

here's a pic with the tank on the stand just need to make a canopy not sure what sort a canopy, ideas welcome.

marine_log_10.jpg

 

Ash

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ProFlatlander15

I know this has been brought up before, but you are sure the tank is strong enough to hold 10g's w/o the seal? I know there was a discrepancy over wether or not it was for looks or structural support. I am only asking because I am thinking about doing the same thing. Sorry to steal the thread, the tank/ stand looks great.

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Yeah im absoloutly confident as the seal was only on two sides and is not integral to the tank and was two seperate parts and was only clipped on to the front and back sides and did not support the side walls so the trim did not have any load bearing capacity, however if the trim goes all the way around the top that would be a different story as it would be supporting something. The trim was purely decoration to cover up the glass support rails and silicone for a canopy or lighting but dont need them as they will be in the hood. Heres some pics, anyway on the tank i have they are not structural.

 

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Ash

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The stand looks nice! You should think about staining it a deep red. That would look so nice. I am a "natural wood" look kind of guy. I'm definately subscribing to this one!

 

 

You could eurobrace the tank, just to settle any doubts.

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I was maybe going to add a fillet plate to each corner like a little tiangle on each corner that wouls help stiffen it up and its only 10g. I definatley like natural wood aswell im thinking of a natural oak stain or beech to go with the flooring

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I ahve nearly completed my stand and canopy. All what's left to do is fill some nail holes, sand and stain the stnd i finished the moulding around the bottom and of course a door. The canopy needs a lid and some moulding around the top and am done and of course sanding then stain.

 

heres a pic of the stand tank and canopy

marine_log_13-.jpg

 

Can anyone help with the sump design thanks

 

Ash

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Hi heres another pic of the stand and canopy stained i just decided to go with a clear stain only need a door now and thats the stand and canopy done then shall move on to sorting the tank out if anyone can suggest a sump layout for the back of the tank as im not to sure if the one i done will work aint had much experience on this area.

 

marine_log_15.jpg

 

Ash

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Heres the false wall i cut today going to order some pumps next week 2 x eheim compact 1002's seem not to bad ive done a CAD drawing of the setup with a new sump layout and the skimmer and pumps in place all seems to fit as i have drawn the equipment to scale will post a pic of it later heres a pic of the false wall but would still like some guidence on the new layout i have done.

 

marine_log_16.jpg

 

Ash

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Anyway here is the pics ive done of the sump any comments welcome need some guidance on it weather you think it will work or if there is any improvements which may help.

 

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Thanks Ash

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i have a suggestion. dont u think it would be better for the baffle in the 1st chamber to have the cut out in the bottom instead of the top? cuz in the chamber where the overflow is, the water is going to go thru there and just go to the second chamber. like the aquapod and nanocube, the baffle in the first chamber has a spot missing in the bottom so the water can go thru the sponge before going on to the other chambers. if u change the baffle and make from all the way to the top, the water will enter the 1st chamber and go thru the fuge then to the other chambers.

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Hi rleon

 

Yeah more like the one below which i first done i was needing to have some live sand in the fudge chamber so a gap just above the sand but the glass goes all the way to the top like you suggest which also makes sense as you have the water flowing through the fudge think im just going to go with my initial idea and see what happens thanks for the suggestion

 

Plan_2.jpg

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yea i saw that and thought that would be better. but a lot of people that do the fuge mod in the nanocubes and aquapods dont have sand in the fuge. they just put cheato in there but the design u just mentioned is better than the first one cuz the water can past thru the fuge rather than just go over it.

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Finally Got my equipment apart from the lighting Got my Tunze DOC nano skimmer and eheim compact pump got a blue bit of acrylic aswell instead of the black but despite ordering a darker blue i got a light blue but its growing on me also waiting on the glass baffles then i can start building the tank some time next week.

 

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I need help trying to find a 70w metal halide ballast which is compatible with the UK 220V 240V

 

Thanks

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Hi there got my glass baffles in place and siliconed just need to fix the acrylic to the glass and figure out some lighting and im nearly ready to add water cant wait heres some photos of putting the glass baffles in place.

 

First baffle in place

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Big dollop of silicone along the edge

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and heres the bubble trap its just under an inch wide

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and finally all baffles in place

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Will post some more pics once i get the pumps plumbing sorted out and the false wall siliconed in place. Im still trying to find a icecap 70w MH ballast.

 

Ash

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I love the word "project" in the the name of a topic.

 

Looking great so far! Can't wait to see it when it's in opperation.

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honestly. WHY IN GODS NAME TAKE OFF THE FRAME if your just going to put wood on the top and bottom?

 

That being said, you're doing a great job so far.

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honestly. WHY IN GODS NAME TAKE OFF THE FRAME if your just going to put wood on the top and bottom?

 

That being said, you're doing a great job so far.

 

 

Hi Maeda thanks

 

There wasnt any trim on the bottom and the black trim at the top clips on and off its a clearseal tank Clearseal Tank and they only have trim on the front and back sides at the top which clips on. The tank was quite expensive for the size it works out at about $45 dollars so it is far better quality than the cheap ones, However when the canopy is on you can still see the black trim, and for some reasurance on removing the glass support rails for lighting and canopy i am going to be bracing the front and sides of the tank with the spare glass i have.

 

Ash

 

 

 

By the way thats my tank on the left on that clearseal website

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I got the tank from my LFS but clearseal tanks are an international afair i think so just google clearseal aquariums or go on to the link in my above post thanks Dl5 hope that helps

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Hi got all my plumbing stuff and more managed to get it all done last nite but there wasnt exactly alot to plumb. I used this push fit connections which do not require glue and are really good it simply clicks together and if you dont like it you can change it. At each fitting there is a union so its easy to come apart and clean etc.

 

Heres the photos and the good thing is all this was free my friend just happens to work in a plumbing merchant very handy indeed.

marine_log_33-.jpg

 

Heres the removable adapter i made for the pump out of an old garden hose fitting and a some plumbing parts.

marine_log_34-.jpg

 

The finished product i have two returns for a bit of flow variation, just hope the pump is powerfull enough to circulate the water around the 10G tank. If not im going to get an additional powerhead and plumb it where the fudge is through the false wall

marine_log_35.jpg

 

A photo showing the baffles and the pump positioning.

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The lighting now heres my problem i am really stuck at this point i want to go with MH but 70w is not readily available in the UK and will cost me in the excess of $380 due to having to buy bits from the US and bits here in the UK anyway i dont even know all the bits to get for a working halide system has anyone got a list of parts and how to put them together and this would have to be for the UK voltage.

 

Driving me crazy im thinking of going with some 3 x36w power compacts the easy option and will work out at about $190 but i know if i get these i will want MH after litrally pulling out my hair out thinking about it again if someone could help me out on this matter to save my sanity.

 

Thanks

 

Ash

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