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Shao's Super NC6 w/ 150MH


shao-lin nano

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shao-lin nano

The RK2 is a nice little toy Mike. I'll be putting my RK1 on my 6g and get a RK2 for my 24 or whatever I upgrade to.

 

My MH 150 cracked my 3/8" glass (non-tempered) shield that I retroed into my splash guard and melted a fan that I placed over it for vent. Heat was intense and I do have a Titan 150 that I could run on it but I just wanted a compact unit with an Iceprobe at most.

 

The lighting was super intense as well...so freaking bright. It was amazingly bright. I think a 70W MH would be just fine.

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As someone already stated - this forum just got interesting again. As usual, nice work.

 

I haven't been able to find one of the horizontal float switches anywhere. Where did you find it? Got a link?

 

Thanks,

 

Jake

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Micro-Reefs Aquariums
The RK2 is a nice little toy Mike. I'll be putting my RK1 on my 6g and get a RK2 for my 24 or whatever I upgrade to.

 

My MH 150 cracked my 3/8" glass (non-tempered) shield that I retroed into my splash guard and melted a fan that I placed over it for vent. Heat was intense and I do have a Titan 150 that I could run on it but I just wanted a compact unit with an Iceprobe at most.

 

The lighting was super intense as well...so freaking bright. It was amazingly bright. I think a 70W MH would be just fine.

Shao,

 

I already have a Rk2 with Ph probe on my 72 reef. I then transferred my old Rk1 over to my 6 gallon cube but after seeing that it's blue cover and green lights don't match my all black tank I sold it and placed another order for a RK2...

 

I'm hooked on the esthetics of this unit, I cannot wait to connect it and take pictures so all can see how sweet it looks next to my 6...

 

Man, about your 150 watt melting a fan and cracking the glass, my Coralife HOT fixture gets really hot that if it didn't have a fan you could fry an egg on top...

 

I've felt the top of the JBJ vipers both 70 and 150 watts and they both sizzle to the touch but the 70 watt is not as hot...

 

That is why I think you'll be okay with a 70 watter, that's what Chris at nanocustoms markets and for good reason; they can contain that massive heat in such a confined space...

 

MG

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RayWhisperer

All righty then, 70 watt seems to be the concensus... I'm still not so sure I want to go that way.

 

Here are my main concerns with the 150..

1) heat

2) melting the hood(or, as in Shao's case, a fan or two)

3) bleaching

 

So, let's discuss this... I'm not sure if I can properly acclimate corals/clam to such close, intense light. As for the glass, if I get tempered, will that really make a difference? I thought tempered was only better for strength/impact resistance... As far as melting goes, I'm a bit less concerned with that... I'll be doing this with an NC12OG. I'm planning on stealing Shao's idea with the wire mesh. I'll have a bit more room to work with versus the NC6. Plus I'm thinking I can squeeze 1 or 2 more fans in, or maybe multiple external scroll fans. Heat is my least concern, as this will be where the new JBJ chiller will be on.

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shao-lin nano

The problem I had witht the 150 is that it's so close to the water surface that light wasn't evenly distributed. It almost looked like a spot light. A 70W MH is successfully kept by lots of people. I've installed a couple into 12g NCs and they're doing fine.

 

You won't have a problem with a 70W MH in a 12g for sure. Good luck with it Ray.

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Shao,

 

I have a two part question for you:

 

1) I've never owned a NanoCube 6 or even seen an IceProbe in person but I hope to have both soon. I don't plan on that much light but will probably need the IceProbe on a six gallon setup in Phoenix. So I'm wondering if in theory an IceProbe could be installed up through the bottom of the tank using a stand that has a cut-out that the outside peice of the IceProbe slides into? Assuming this would have to stick up through the display area and be covered with live rock, does the probe need more circulation around it to work properly?

 

2) Any interest in building one of those stands for me? If so, name your price.

 

Thanks!

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shao-lin nano

The stand would be easy to build. Mine is crude, looks good enough for me but is not a nice peice of furniture by far.

 

The iceprobe would be fine from under the tank but the more flow passing the probe the better. You wouldn't be able to fit it from the bottom if you want to keep it in the back chamber. You also don't want "stale" and confined air inside the stand cooling the probe....the probe does best out in the open where a fresh supply of cool air is abundant.

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I am an awful woodworker, but if it only looks nice in the picture I'll take your word for it.

 

Thanks for the good info. I could always put fans in the stand for heat transfer but I do worry about water flow around the probe.

 

Hmmmm.

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RayWhisperer
The problem I had witht the 150 is that it's so close to the water surface that light wasn't evenly distributed. It almost looked like a spot light. A 70W MH is successfully kept by lots of people. I've installed a couple into 12g NCs and they're doing fine.

 

You won't have a problem with a 70W MH in a 12g for sure. Good luck with it Ray.

Well, I just pre ordered the new JBJ nano chiller from www.nanotuners.com!

B)

That settled it, I'm gonna try to blast a 150 halide in there!

 

Shao, do you think if I put some flat stock around the screen it will not only serve as a heat shield, but also help to reflect some light? Maybe eliminating the spotlight effect you experienced.

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