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Shao's Super NC6 w/ 150MH


shao-lin nano

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shao-lin nano

Shao-Lin Nano's NC6 w/ 150MH + 2X18PC and more

This is not a DIY guide. If you want to emulate what I've done don't blame me if something goes wrong.

 

This project was sponsored by Chris and the NanoCustoms team. Couldn't have done it without Chris and Nick. Chris said "Stick this in it and make it work" and I said "OK". Hopefully after careful testing this will be available at NanoCustoms.

 

So, onto the specs:

  • NC6 w/ "Stock" hood
  • 14,000K 150W MH
  • 2X18W Actinic PC
  • IceProbe Chiller
  • ATO
  • Bare Bottom
  • NanoSkim Surface Skimmer (modded)
  • Powerhead Return Mods

Tank Mods

 

Bare Bottom made from a cutting board from Target. I like the speckled black; looks like the Tahitian Moon sand but will never get dirty. I cut it to size and used black aquarium silicone to secure it in place.

BB1.jpg

 

BB2.jpg

 

BB3.jpg

 

ATO made from horizontal float switch. Pic does not show final mounting direction.

ATO.jpg

 

Flare Nozzel reduction. I didn't like how the stock nozzel stuck out so much so I cut about 1/2 inch off.

Nozzel.jpg

 

IceProbe Chiller Chamber 2.

iceprobe1.jpg

 

iceprobe2.jpg

 

iceprobe3.jpg

 

iceprobe4.jpg

 

The probe protudes the false wall. I used a camera film cover case to cover the protruding probe.

 

 

 

NanoSkim Skimmer mod. I just made it thinner, there's already so little space in the tank; I wanted to make everything low profile. Here is a before and after.

nanoSkim.jpg

 

The tank.

tank.jpg

 

Hood Mods

 

Mesh vent.

TopVentB.jpg

 

Fans.

FanHole.jpg

 

Fans1.jpg

 

Fans2.jpg

 

Stock fans were upgraded as well.

 

The lighting. B)

Hood.jpg

Notice the black acrylic blocking the sides. This is to prevent water from entering the new vent for the side fans. I now can't use the "kick-stand" for the hood.

 

A mod I did but didn't show was a return hose with a duckbill tucked under the upper trim like the one I did for my NC24. Another was the section of the plastic splash guard replaced with glass for the MH heat.

 

Testing will start soon. This will be a SPS & clam tank with a GSP "lawn" hopefully.

 

Enjoy.

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Brother-Shark-Bait

Damn bro, you can come over to my casa any time. Just as long as you bring your tool belt and knowledge along with you J/K. Nice tank.

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Shao, once again you amaze me!!! Unbelievable setup. Just be careful the solar flares that thing will emit don't fry all of the electronics in your house!!!

 

Bob

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OMG! Just when I thought I saw everything.

 

Very inventive, I love the chiller integration and the fan set up is sick!

 

Can’t wait to see the rest; best of luck.

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Seems like a waste, IMO.

 

Good luck with. I had originally intended to stick a 70w MH in the stock hood for the nc6 contest, but my tank cracked.

 

I have some ideas for making this work.

 

Let me know if I can be any help.

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shao-lin nano
cool. did you try to have it on like 24 hours to see the hood and withstand the heat?

 

I don't think I need to leave it on for 24-hrs for testing. No one realistically leaves their lights on for that long. I will be testing for heat. That's one of the major concerns. Hopefully with all the fans and extra vent it'll be no different than an open top with the bulb really close to the water surface.

 

Seems like a waste, IMO.

 

Good luck with. I had originally intended to stick a 70w MH in the stock hood for the nc6 contest, but my tank cracked.

 

I have some ideas for making this work.

 

Let me know if I can be any help.

 

70w MH has been done to death. A 150 in a stock hood should be interesting. I hope everything tests out fine. I'll be watching the unit closly when I test but there's a thermal cut-off installed to shut off the MH is temp climbs to some temp that I can't remember. If you have any ideas please share here or PM or something. I'm very interested in what others can contribute. Thanks.

 

Only other idea I can think of is having a 60 to 80 mm fan right above the MH blowing out the top vent.

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JMT -- nobody asked for your opininion..... BICOLOR Blenny---NOT

 

(just stiring the pot some yall...)

 

LOOKS awesome, just not sure your gonna have enough light intensity to support any algae, much less corals ---- for your tank in the next room --lol

 

Cant wait to see this little bugger full of killer SPS and clams...

 

Excellent as usual SLN... keep us posted

 

Izzue

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Well, it is a waste. There is nothing currently being kept in the hobby that requires that much light in such a small volume. Nothing.

 

In fact, I could possibly see it having negative effects on some aquarium life.

 

And don't get me started on keeping such a small SPS dominated tank.

 

But, in the interest of advancement and for the greater good of the hobby and forum, I'll offer what I can.

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Well, it is a waste. There is nothing currently being kept in the hobby that requires that much light in such a small volume. Nothing.

 

In fact, I could possibly see it having negative effects on some aquarium life.

 

And don't get me started on keeping such a small SPS dominated tank.

 

But, in the interest of advancement and for the greater good of the hobby and forum, I'll offer what I can.

 

 

corals out in the ocean get way more par and light than they will ever see in our tanks! this maybe overkill because no one has done it yet, but thats the best thing about this hobby is people like jeremy who are willing to try and pave the way for others who are more cautious....i think the corals will do better than most tanks with that light assuming the water temp is stable! keep up the good work!

 

-Jon

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Hey Jeremy, glad you were able to finish it ^_^

 

Great work ! and I hope to see it all sparkly and stocked the next time I'm down there, don't let anyone tell you any different, it's going to be one hell of an adventure !

 

-Anthony

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i agree if it wasnt for people like shao. willing to push the hobby further, there wouldnt even be a nano tank. amazing shao.

 

i know someone w/ 2(400) wt mhs over a 20 long and they have tremendous coral growth. so i dont think 150 over 6 is unreasonable. the only reason why it hasnt been done is bec most dont think beyond the lines like shao.

 

you are by far the most innovative hobbyist ive seen.

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RayWhisperer

Shao, 14k isn't a good spectrum for a mini tanning booth!

 

Looks great! Keep us posted, I may steal a few ideas for the 12 I was thinking about putting a 150 in.

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stoney waters

shao.

 

Great mods man. One thing that always concerned me was what would happen if for some reason there was a fan failure. Is there some type of thermal shut off? The reason I ask is because I had a the fans fail on my setup once. It melted the splash shield and warped the vent grates pretty good, and that was with just upgraded PC's. I could only imagine what would happen if the same thing happened with the 150w MH. That was the main reason I decided not to go MH.

 

Great to see another Iceprobe mod. Any reason why you chose not to go with ICA? How did you decide on the placement? I might have placed it lower in the chamber so as to not waste that entire space.

 

 

You just made this forum interesting again.

-Stone

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shao-lin nano
What are you doing for UV shielding?

 

Replaced plastic shield with glass.

 

Well, it is a waste. There is nothing currently being kept in the hobby that requires that much light in such a small volume. Nothing.

 

In fact, I could possibly see it having negative effects on some aquarium life.

 

And don't get me started on keeping such a small SPS dominated tank.

 

But, in the interest of advancement and for the greater good of the hobby and forum, I'll offer what I can.

 

I knew that this would be very intense lighting and was concerned with bleaching corals with too much light. This is an experiment. We'll see what happens. I've thought about all the concerns you've brought up and I've never had first hand experience with so much light in such a small tank and now I will. Also, if the 150MH is too much then I'll go with 70MH. It's a quick reposition of the delux bulb holder and a different ballast since it's on a quick disconnect.

 

shao.

 

One thing that always concerned me was what would happen if for some reason there was a fan failure. Is there some type of thermal shut off?

 

Great to see another Iceprobe mod. Any reason why you chose not to go with ICA? How did you decide on the placement? I might have placed it lower in the chamber so as to not waste that entire space.

-Stone

 

There is a termal cutoff device in series with the power supply for the MH. I'll be testing this unit; supervising it the entire time. The fans are on seperate power supplies and connected in a parallel fashion so that they most likely won't all die at the same time.

 

I don't plan on using chamber 2 for anything other than Chiller and ATO. ICA is not yet available for the NC6 or I would have ran dual-ICAs. I picked upper half because water pressure is greater towards the bottom making it more likely to spring a leak if it was lower. It's low enough so that it's fully submerged in moving water. Chamber 1 will hold a few chemical filters and that's about it; no fuge for this tank...I have one for the NC24 and didn't like how it was messy when chaeto overflows into the return pump.

 

Thanks all for the encoragments and concerns.

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