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lgreen

lgreen's Ultimate Guide To Nano Fish

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mikej
I'd be glad to change it. Do you happen to have any literature or anything where I could confirm that? Michael's books seems to suggest it both ways, so i'd be interested to see if algae play a role only as you say, or if they are also able to use the algae directly for nutrition.

 

I don't have any direct references, but I observed my Rainford Goby picking pods out of a vast sea of GHA, never once actually grazing on the algae itself. Given that it also sifts sand which is typically bahavior associated with microfauna-eaters, I'm convinced that their purported habit of eating algae is confusion with the fact that the pods they eat tend to hide there.

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ace33

genrally, would any of the fish in the 20g section be suitable in a 15 aga? which ones would be a good choice and which would be the worst, thanks

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lgreen

tough call. kind of comes down to your judgment. i'd say a lot in the 20g category are pushing it for 20g as it is, so I think you'd be better of sticking w/ the 10g category.

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lgreen

2007 Update has begun. Cleaning things up a bit to make it easier to navigate and adding a few new features.

 

2 New Features to be finished in the next few days to week:

 

-Feeding Suggestions (already had this done once, but PC froze and I lost it. ERRR!!)

-Nano Fish Compatibility

 

As always, your suggestions are always welcome and encouraged.

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moonlightxpress825

damn, i did all the research on my own except reading your guide..my bad..great suggestions for a beginner like myself..thanks

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aquaman590
Under eels, I think the Golden Dwarf Moray (Gymnothorax melatremus) shoud be added.

This one goes in the same category as the Helfrichi firefish. I can't find one less than $300! But they're so, so nice...

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RG Rude

Thanks for the information. I have been doing alot of reading in preperation of buying a nano. I found this guide very helpful and will refer to it when I finally buy a couple of fish.

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Tyrsdottir

Igreen, thank you so much for all of your hard work on this (and thanks to anyone else who put work into it). It has been very helpful!

 

One thing I am looking for, and if someone could point me to it, I'd appreciate it, is how to know how many invertebrates one could keep with a given invertebrate-safe fish.

 

For example, if I do a 6g with a false perculla, is there any leeway for any inverts at all, and if so, how many?

 

I really like arrow crabs, but am afraid it would be too much.

I also like choc chip stars and blood shrimp.

 

Thanks again!!

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Ryan_H
Igreen, thank you so much for all of your hard work on this (and thanks to anyone else who put work into it). It has been very helpful!

 

One thing I am looking for, and if someone could point me to it, I'd appreciate it, is how to know how many invertebrates one could keep with a given invertebrate-safe fish.

 

For example, if I do a 6g with a false perculla, is there any leeway for any inverts at all, and if so, how many?

 

I really like arrow crabs, but am afraid it would be too much.

I also like choc chip stars and blood shrimp.

 

Thanks again!!

 

inverts don't count towards your bioload, especially since many of them eat waste, left over food and detritus before it can pollute your tank. in a 6 gallon, 6 astreas, 6 blue legs and a scarlett hermit would be a good clean up crew and you could throw in a few ornamental crustaceans. but keep in mind territorial behavior. arrow crabs are the devil, so stay away from them. one blood shrimp would be ok, as long as he had a place big enough to hide in. don't do any starfish in a 6 gallon unless it's just nasty and can support their feeding habits, but even then only a bali star would have a shot at surviving and you would have to hope it started eating pellets. do not get a chocolate chip star, especially if you plan on having corals. they are NOT reef safe, as they eat anything that they can digest.

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Tyrsdottir
inverts don't count towards your bioload, especially since many of them eat waste, left over food and detritus before it can pollute your tank. in a 6 gallon, 6 astreas, 6 blue legs and a scarlett hermit would be a good clean up crew and you could throw in a few ornamental crustaceans. but keep in mind territorial behavior. arrow crabs are the devil, so stay away from them. one blood shrimp would be ok, as long as he had a place big enough to hide in. don't do any starfish in a 6 gallon unless it's just nasty and can support their feeding habits, but even then only a bali star would have a shot at surviving and you would have to hope it started eating pellets. do not get a chocolate chip star, especially if you plan on having corals. they are NOT reef safe, as they eat anything that they can digest.

 

Thank you SO MUCH for your input!!

 

Anyone else have anything to add/say?

 

Anywhere on here that specificly discusses inverts, etc?

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lgreen

Check out the invertebrate forum:

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showforum=22

 

I too would avoid the arrow crab and choc. stars. Really a 6g is no place for a starfish of any type, except maybe baby brittles, if you ask me. Additionally arrow crabs get too big and have been known also to eat just about anything they can get a hold of, which can include fish.

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Tyrsdottir
Check out the invertebrate forum:

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showforum=22

 

I too would avoid the arrow crab and choc. stars. Really a 6g is no place for a starfish of any type, except maybe baby brittles, if you ask me. Additionally arrow crabs get too big and have been known also to eat just about anything they can get a hold of, which can include fish.

 

Thanks for the input and the link. I've been working my way thru the beginner's forums and haven't even peeked anywhere else! LOL!

 

I do have a question which might nix this whole idea for me, tho.

 

What about vacations? We go, at least once a year, and spend 10 days at my in-laws', 1000 miles away. I have always fattened my FW and BW fish up a bit beforehand, cleaned their tanks and let them be for the 10 days, and they've always been fine (except that my bettas act like they've never seen me before when I get back, lol).

 

Can that be done with a nano-FOWLR tank? Or would I have to have someone come and feed them, and if so, how often? I don't know if I have anyone who could/would do it more than once or twice, and I would rather not bother them with it if I don't have to.

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Withers

Completely depends on your setup. If your fish will eat pellets, you can easily go out and buy an automatic feeder to fix the food problem. You can also buy an auto-topoff unit to keep your water topped off (which you should buy regardless of whether you're going on vacation).

 

If you go that route, make sure you test the new equipment for at least a week to make sure it isn't overfeeding your tank.

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Tyrsdottir
Completely depends on your setup. If your fish will eat pellets, you can easily go out and buy an automatic feeder to fix the food problem. You can also buy an auto-topoff unit to keep your water topped off (which you should buy regardless of whether you're going on vacation).

 

If you go that route, make sure you test the new equipment for at least a week to make sure it isn't overfeeding your tank.

 

Well, it's only a 6g tank, so it'll only have one fish, a CUC, and a shrimp or 2.

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lgreen

Updated for 2007. Feeding and compatibility charts to be added as soon as I get to them.

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Uploadead

who made this a sticky? whoever it was theyre a God!

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balljet
do you remember MLA from high school? or citing primary literature for scientific papers?

 

It has nothing to do w/ people being able to use my work. What it does have to do with is others copying my work and claiming it as their own.

 

For example, the list of nano fish based on tank size, is my origional thinking based on my research and opinions. If someone copied that list exactly, that would not be their origional thinking, and therefore they would be stealing. Now, if they use it, and give credit to the person they got it from, then that is cool.

 

There is nothing wrong with using someones info, but you should always give credit to them for that info.

 

For example you will notice throughout this thread I give credit to certain people and books.

 

If you do not not your source, that is plagerism, and basically stealing.

 

 

Thanks for all the info, and work compiling it.

I have a simple 12 gal, mini reef setup, low lighting, It is only one month old, I have added a bi-color blennie, small one. My question is could I add another fish, anfd if so, what do you suggest. I would like something, hardy easy to feed..

Suggestions..??

Thanks B)

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Trasm

Can you have seahorses and fish in a 8 gal tank together?

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lgreen
Thanks for all the info, and work compiling it.

I have a simple 12 gal, mini reef setup, low lighting, It is only one month old, I have added a bi-color blennie, small one. My question is could I add another fish, anfd if so, what do you suggest. I would like something, hardy easy to feed..

Suggestions..??

Thanks B)

 

sure. there is a whole list of fish for a 10-12g tank on the first page.

 

Can you have seahorses and fish in a 8 gal tank together?

 

Maybe a really small fish, but I wouldn't push it. Your going to have enough of a bioload in an 8 gal just keeping the seahorses fed properly.

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Esper

First off, this is an EXCELLENT write-up, you deserve much credit for taking the time to do this, and share it for free.

 

I second the inputs that say a 30G is the minimum size for any kind of wrasse (6 line, etc.). I had one in my 40G and felt it was too small of a tank (although more live rock would have helped). I feel the same way about any kind of puffer, they need a larger tank then 10g (prefer 30+).

 

also, Pajama and Bangaii Cardinals are always found in schools in the wild, and should be kept in groups in the aquarium as well. I've never kept single individuals for more than a week, but have not had trouble with groups.

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Tentacles

I think some persuasion needs to be done to make this a sticky in the pico section too, having info. for .5g 2.5g and 5g tanks is valuable info. and everyone always wants to know what they can stick in their pico and never read this.

 

Sticky in the Pico Section!

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Random One

Isn't .5 a bit unfair on the fish unless it was a small neon goby? This thread is quite accurate and pecise in what it says. I like the idea of the species and tank size categories, making it easier to choose. Thankyou for helping me decide stocking for my 12 gallon NanoCube.

 

Random.

Edited by Random One

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boomer2266

whats the most "reef safe" dottyback ?

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figliaperduta

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dwfdwfangels.htm

 

What about the Dwarf Dwarf Angels? Particularly, I'm interested in Centropyge flavicauda, the Pacific Pygmy, which only gets to be about an inch.

 

Wonderful list! Thanks, lgreen.

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lgreen
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dwfdwfangels.htm

 

What about the Dwarf Dwarf Angels? Particularly, I'm interested in Centropyge flavicauda, the Pacific Pygmy, which only gets to be about an inch.

 

Wonderful list! Thanks, lgreen.

 

I think I have a couple of the more common ones listed such as the atlantic pygmy angel and the african flameback pygmy angel.

 

Probably like 20g mim for flavicauda.

 

I wouldn't mind coming across some of the more colorful (besides purple/blue orange) pygmies myself.

 

whats the most "reef safe" dottyback ?

 

As far as I know most of the common ones you see for sale (aka pseudochromis) are reef safe. Small risk of eating smaller ornamental shrimp though, but otherwise shouldn't touch coral or other inverts.

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