Jump to content
lgreen

lgreen's Ultimate Guide To Nano Fish

Recommended Posts

lgreen

sounds good

 

thanks

 

lgreen: neat thread :)

 

any specific reason that I couldn't keep a bicolor pseudochromis in a 7? doesn't seem much larger than a clown?

 

TIA

 

honestly, i don't like the idea of a clown in a 7g, but i've seen a ton of people do it.

 

i think a diadem would be ok, but not cure on the bicolor. what do you guys think?

Share this post


Link to post
Travis
sounds good

 

thanks

 

Was that dirrected at my comment on the Fourline?

Share this post


Link to post
lgreen

yep.

 

sounds good.

 

thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Travis

So are you going to change it on the guys to read: -Fourline Wrasse (3”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)

 

???

Share this post


Link to post
lgreen

yep, fixed.

Share this post


Link to post
Travis

Thanks :)

Share this post


Link to post
Nuhtty

Interesting read. I've seen something similar before.

 

;)

Share this post


Link to post
sandlot13

freakin make this a sticky please

Share this post


Link to post
lgreen

nah, no sticky please.

 

I still get crap about the last thing I got sticked, and I'm sure I will never here the end of it.

Share this post


Link to post
Cuba Libre
"Also keep in mind I may list some things that are pushing it. I don’t know whether you are a beginner or expert, if you know how to do a water change or not, so I will assume anyone who uses this guide has some common sense and basic understanding of nano reefing. For example, the fact that I list some fish appropriate for a 0.5g and 2.5g tank, does not automatically mean you should keep a fish in a tank that size. Rather, it means if you are capable of maintaining the added bioload of keeping a fish in a tank that size, then these fish would be appropriate choices."

Totally agree with both of you, but like i said, in some cases i may push the limits. Different people will be at different skill levels and what not, so i would rather provide an answer that covers everyone that just say no period. Although i wouldn't keep fish in a tank under 5g.

 

I'm not a huge fan of inch per gallon rules.

 

for example, 4 inch lion in a 30g is going to be a lot different than a 4 inch goby in a 30g.

 

ok, for general, but you wont catch me using them.

I'd be glad to change it. Do you happen to have any literature or anything where I could confirm that? Michael's books seems to suggest it both ways, so i'd be interested to see if algae play a role only as you say, or if they are also able to use the algae directly for nutrition.

 

 

 

On the question of Rainford Goby's here is the opinion of Anthony Calfo as posted on www.Wetwebmedia.com (Properly cited, of course)

 

"Rainford's goby is notorious for being very difficult to keep for long in captivity and this is largely because of its seemingly strict dietary requirements. The nature of its substrate is truly secondary to this dietary need as they have been observed on both hard and soft substrates as you have noted. For many years the common denominator to their success in captivity has been a constant supply of hair algae (Derbesia or like species have been "employed" perhaps inferior to turf algae) Since such algae is generally considered to be unsightly and a nuisance... many Rainford gobies are not kept healthy for very long. Turf algae species are really perhaps more appropriate and their recent popularity in algal scrubbers and subsequent methods for cultivating a continuous supply may help keep species such as the Rainford goby. Ironically, it may not be the algae at all that they need to feed upon but rather the zooplankton attracted to the dense mats of algae. Regardless... are you really prepared to turn your 350l display into a field of algae for this fish? Most people would not be willing, but you have said that you are interested in a biotope display. If so, I hope I have reassured you that you need not worry so much about the nature of the substrate and rather to focus on cultivating turf algae and incidentals within it for keeping the magnificent Rainford goby. "

 

HTH

Share this post


Link to post
lgreen

Thanks for finding that

 

That is what I suspected. Seems there is some uncertainty to exactly why Ranfordi's eat algae.

 

Calfo suggests they may eat algae for zooplankton as a possibility, but the says "regardless" so I am assuming he is not 100% sure either.

 

Interesting.

 

I'll just leave them as a herbivore for now, as it seems either way regardless they need the algae to survive. Whether or not they actually eat the algae or not, who knows.

Share this post


Link to post
lgreen

time for a biweekly bump

Share this post


Link to post
c est ma

Please add my voice to those wishing you'd make this a sticky. We'll all support you in this. And you wouldn't have to bump it regularly. :)

 

Also, I couldn't agree with you more regarding plagiarism. The poster who thinks protection of intellectual property has "gone too far" probably just doesn't have any to protect...

 

Thanks for all the work on this.

 

--Diane

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
aquaman7

^ ditto :)

Share this post


Link to post
jmt

Poor lg and his empty hopes. :D

Share this post


Link to post
WREKDYVR

Heres a bump for you, well done lgreen.

Share this post


Link to post
kinetic

how about neon gobies? the carribean blue and the other yellow neon goby is REALLY tiny. 1g +?

Share this post


Link to post
MikeN

Great work! Thanks for taking the time to do something like this.

Share this post


Link to post
steelhealr

I just saw this for the first time....lgreen...are you OK? No fevers? You know, Woody Allen once said that if the 'frequency' drops to less than once every 8 months, you'd better check into it..........

 

BTW, you can add tailspot blenny, ecsenius stigmatura to your blenny list. Good job..but....uh...oh never mind kohei. SH

Share this post


Link to post
travisurfer

im pretty sure pink skunks only get to 3", at least thats what "Clownfishes" by Joyce Wilkerson says. btw, great thread. please make this a sticky. :D

 

Travis

Share this post


Link to post
distantfire

I agree this should be a sticky. And because it is the "ultimate nano fish guide". I thought maybe you could also add what food's to buy for these nano fish. And how often per day or week you feed them. In order to keep them healthy.

Share this post


Link to post
Samoyed
I agree this should be a sticky. And because it is the "ultimate nano fish guide". I thought maybe you could also add what food's to buy for these nano fish. And how often per day or week you feed them. In order to keep them healthy.

 

 

agreed!!!!!!!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
travisurfer

the food would require some work, but that would cancel out all of the questions about what should i feed this, or what should i feed that. great idea.

Share this post


Link to post
reffer9391

Bump this is a great fast guide

Please move the 6, 4, 8 line Wrasses to 20g though please most recomed 30+

More info on Flame Hawk would help

I agree neon gobies and gold ones too mabye be added under 1g tanks even though I think that tank needs alot of upkeep or attacked to a larger tank for better water quality/stabiblity.

 

Great guide you must be bored.

Your fish guide and SHs DIY guide need to be stickys for sure. I Vote

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recommended Discussions

×
×
  • Create New...