Overflow Diagrams

[MedicBMC]

Ok so here is my plan for my 75g build. I'm having John at Advanced acrylics build me a custom internal overflow. I want to go with the herbie overflow method, but has you can see I only have two bulkheads. My question is how should I plumb the return pipe?

 

Over the back with a U-return U-return link?

 

Or is there some way I can hard plumb it with PVC and attatch it to a loc-line fitting like this? link

 

Does anyone know the size of the threaded end of the loc-line connector?

 

Any advice or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

 

Edited February 13, 2010 by MedicBMC

[bitts]

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BulkheadFloRateArt.htm

 

good read.

[withoutaclue661]

I have MedicBMC's tank now (mwaaaaaa). My return pump is going to be a Mag 18. There will be a Tee in the return to send some flow to the refugium but I was wondering which system will give me the best flow? 2 Stockmans or 1 Herbie.

[fmfa0801]

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=231130

[bitts]

I have MedicBMC's tank now (mwaaaaaa). My return pump is going to be a Mag 18. There will be a Tee in the return to send some flow to the refugium but I was wondering which system will give me the best flow? 2 Stockmans or 1 Herbie.

 

herbie

you can use the water presure to force the drain to run at a higher rate than a stockman can take.

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=231130

 

so basicly a stockman with 5 min work - awesome.

[bonese]

 

^ Video on how to make a Herbie I stumbled upon.

[Deleted User 6]

At first I was like "Oh I'll go learn what overflow/drain is best" but then I was like "Ow my head" on about page 2.

[Deleted User 6]

 

^ Video on how to make a Herbie I stumbled upon.

 

that's great.

 

so question - for a 20L herbie style, how big should the drain holes be (bottom of the tank) and what pump should i consider for the return?

[Deleted User 6]

so question - for a 20L herbie style, how big should the drain holes be (bottom of the tank) and what pump should i consider for the return?

[bitts]

Hey big d

 

On a 20L.

 

A 3/4" a couple inches above the bottom for the main & again a couple inches from the top for the back up. With about 6" between the two. Should easily run between like 300 & 600 gph. Keep in mind that if you run close to the 600 point then you'll probably want to run a 1" for the back up. A gate valve makes things easier but on the 3/4" ball valves work fine. Adding a Hartford loop makes it bomb proof. Pm me if you have more ? or want details.

[Deleted User 6]

awesome bitts said this in my other thread:

 

What size holes do I need for the drain and the backup?

 

1.) To start there is a relationship between drain size & flow rate. Flow rate is acheaved by the height of the water line above the drain, combined with the size of the drain. I.e. The more water & the larger the drain, the greater the flow.

 

2.) How much flow is wanted through the sump/fuge. There are great debates over what is the ideal flow, but a fuge needs a high dwell time for nutrient transfer. So maby, as much as it pains me to use the term, 5xthe size of the fuge for turn over. Flow can be met by powerheads. Simple sumps have no limitations on there flow behyond micro bubbles, heaters, & skimmer performance.

 

In the over flow thread there I have a link to a flow rate calculater. I'll see if I can add the link here with the blackberry if not will do later.

 

3.) More than likely it will be either a 3/4" or a 1" drain, pearsonaly I like to use the same size drain for both drains. But here's that relationship coming back. As you move the drain closer to top of the tank, the less flow it can handle. So the backup has to be able to handle grater flow than the primary if & when the the drain clogs (Yes the drain will clog). This helps to set where the drains will be Placed. The distance between, height within the overflow, & so on. The back up needs to be low enough to drain while still not having the overflows water line go above the weir (you knew I'd work it in there some how, fancy word for were the water flows over). While the primary needs to have enough distance between its self & the backup to be fully submerged with out creating a vortex sucking bubbles into the drain (that's what makes noise).

 

4.) When drilling tanks. There needs to be, at minimum, the diamiter of the hole between the hole & the edge of the panle being drilled. This is the minimum to not crack the glass. More is better.

 

So figure out how much you want through the sump/fuge. Then put the backup as close to the weir as you can & still achive this flow. Then put the main as low as you can with out cracking the tank. Set water line in overflow with ball valve or gate valve.

 

 

 

 

What size hole for the return?

 

 

1.) This will most likely be the same as the output of the pump. Would expect 1/2" or 3/4".

 

2.) 3/4" or 1" return plumbing can be split then reduced to 1/2" as it enters the tank.

 

3.) Without siphion brakes, or other messures to prevent backflow. The tank will drain to these returns when the pump is shut down.

 

 

 

What pump recommendations? (I'll be running an MP40 for the main tank flow)

 

1.) Normally the least expensive to run. I hate spending money I didn't need to.

I run quiet one pumps for this reason. But to be dead silent eheim is supose to be the best. Untill you steep up to exo's like iwaki (the pretty japaness one) or gen x (the knock off)

 

2.) Eductor nozzles can reduce the size of pump needed to reach a set flow rate without effecting the drains. (Free flow)

 

3.) Never reduce the flow to a pump this will cause the pump to cavatate (bubbles).

 

4.) When picking the pump remember to judge it not only on flow rate but head.

 

 

 

 

What plumbing parts do I need to pull this whole thing off and where's the best place to get them?

 

 

1.) Welcome to the never ending trips to homedepot. Most plumbing will be found at the local box store. Speicalty items like bulkheads will be at the lfs.

 

2.) Peaces parts

Vynal tubing

Hose barb fittings (sevral types. 90? Mpt for the main, reg mpt's for most everything else)

A couple feet pvc

Teflon tape (this is your new best friend. Use a lot & once you have tightend the fitting will need to be replased if lossened)

Bulkheads & screens (no open pipes)

Pvc solvent

90 elbows & other pvc parts

Ball valves/gate valves

Quick conects/true unions

 

 

3.) Air leaks cause asperation (bubbles) make sure to have all joints sealed tight

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are pics of my old ten x ten in my tank thread & more info on water in my sig.

 

Hope this helps. Pm me when there's more questions.

[Deleted User 6]

I'm thinking about doing what they do here:

 

 

are those standpipes too tall? should I just make the main drain about half as tall as the tank itself? I'm planning to drill two 1 3/4" holes 2" from the back and left walls of the tank. if that's a go, let me know and I'll drill baby drill.

[bitts]

Worry free setup thread.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...=0#entry2946101

[Pxiong85]

I am making a External Durso but am a bit confused on where to place it. Does it have to be placed right after the bulkhead or can i place it anywhere in the drain line??

 

Thanks in advance...

[bitts]

bulkhead feeds into a tee with one end runing to the sump & the other extending up. would recomend to the top of the tank or a little above. so as to not be able to leak on to the floor.

[jtgordon20]

Hey guys I've been planning on a 20L. Right now it is drilled in the bottom with a 1" bulkhead. I've been trying to dry fit a Durso together like the diagram says with an adapter to 1 1/4" PVC, and the standpipe is really big for a 20L. I would need to have the overflow be around 9" x 5" which I think is a little to big for a 20L at just 30"x12". I was thinking a Stockman Standpipe, to save space. Will it be quiet and be good for a 20L with a 10G sump?

[bitts]

one inch plumbing should work just fine. keep the overflow wall as close to the drain as you can to reduce the needed space. where is the drain located from the edges (in inches).

[jtgordon20]

The edges of the bulkhead is 2 inches from the side and back wall.

Are you saying to do a stockman with 1" pvc or do the durso with 1"?

[bitts]

sounds like you could do a 6x4 overflow. you can do either durso or stockman.

[jtgordon20]

So a 6x4 overflow with a 1 1/4" durso?

[bitts]

as long as the overflow wall is not touching the bulkhead you should be fine. you could do a 1.25 or 1 inch stand pipe. if you do a 1 inch just run .75 inch plumbing from the bulkhead down. should save you some space, plus its cheaper.

 

oh & use a ro fitting type ball valve to make adjusting the air hole easier.

[Joe1690]

I am currently starting a 135g Project tank, and I have decided to go with the Herbie overflow. but my question is, would a 1" main drain and a 1/2" Emergency drain be sufficent? or should i use a 3/4" emergency drain? i was also told to use 1/2" return lines to the tank. Im not too sure which return pump im going to be using but if anyone has some suggestions that would be nice

[bitts]

I made my overflow out of glass that I got locally for $6. Then after I attached the 2 pieces with silicone I painted the inside black. This way I can easily scrape off coraline algae with a razorblade, keeping the tank looking like new FOREVER!!!!!

 

 

 

The glass is .25" thick and I had the glass shop cut the off one corner one each piece (.5") so that the silicone on the bottom of the tank wouldn't be a problem. It works well and IMO looks better than an overflow with teeth.

 

The dimensions are 14.75"x10" and 14.75"x4.5".

 

So anyway here's the pics

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 14, 2011 by bitts

[DK_Reef]

How do I drill the holes in the glass to start with

[bitts]

Hole saw or dremel with tile cutting bit.