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Tigahboy

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thanks. i had read that using a gate valve makes adjusting the flow easier. i wasnt sure if this was necessary, since theres no place local that i can get a gate valve.

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thanks. i had read that using a gate valve makes adjusting the flow easier. i wasnt sure if this was necessary, since theres no place local that i can get a gate valve.

The ball valve works fine.

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The ball valve works fine.

 

 

I'm having trouble matching flow rates on my Herbie setup... 1" bulkheads and 1" ball valve on the drain side. On the return side its 5/8" (temporary until I get the correct 3/4" fittings) with a quiet one 1200. I'll probably get a beefier pump soon, also.

 

The ball valve seems too imprecise to match the flow. It either rises or drains but I can't get a constant water level. Any thoughts?

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I'm having trouble matching flow rates on my Herbie setup... 1" bulkheads and 1" ball valve on the drain side. On the return side its 5/8" (temporary until I get the correct 3/4" fittings) with a quiet one 1200. I'll probably get a beefier pump soon, also.

 

The ball valve seems too imprecise to match the flow. It either rises or drains but I can't get a constant water level. Any thoughts?

How much difference in height do you have between the primary and backup?

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How much difference in height do you have between the primary and backup?

 

Right now the backup isn't plumbed. I have a threaded plug because I don't have any 1" pipe to make a standpipe. My tank is only 8 inches tall. My guess is there's not enough height in the water column above the bulkhead to get to the pressure threshold that seems to overcompensate for the rising water level. I dunno though, because it sounds like some people are running only 5 or 6 inches over the bulkhead with no problem. I ran my water level all the way to the brim and the rising still didn't slow down any.

 

Maybe getting a gate valve would change things? Or maybe dropping the sump down another foot? Right now it's about 2 feet from water level to water level.

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Right now the backup isn't plumbed. I have a threaded plug because I don't have any 1" pipe to make a standpipe. My tank is only 8 inches tall. My guess is there's not enough height in the water column above the bulkhead to get to the pressure threshold that seems to overcompensate for the rising water level. I dunno though, because it sounds like some people are running only 5 or 6 inches over the bulkhead with no problem. I ran my water level all the way to the brim and the rising still didn't slow down any.

 

Maybe getting a gate valve would change things? Or maybe dropping the sump down another foot? Right now it's about 2 feet from water level to water level.

I haven't had any problems getting mine ballanced. I use this screen on the main drain:

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~FT8652.html

And this one on the backup:

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~FT8652.html

so there is 3 inches of "buffer" between the two heights. I tune the water level to be between the two.

 

I am going to change the backup to this one to allow more "buffer" between the two heights and so I can run a higher water level in the overflow for less noise. Just haven't gotten to it yet. It should give me more like 5" of buffer.

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~FT8555.html

 

The top of all of my strainers are the same height and about 1" above the waterline.

 

HTH,

 

Dave

Edited by jpndave
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neanderthalman
As it is now, I have 8 inches of buffer and I can't get it to even out.

 

Try a gate valve. Depending on the valve, you have much finer control over the flow rate than with a ball valve. Ball valves are better suited to isolation than control.

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It does help to have the second drain because you can hear when it is at the right place. You can tune coming from either direction. Either start with it full open and close it slowely until the sound stops or start fully closed and open until the sound from the backup stops/the flow stops.

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This might be a stupid question but why would you do that?

 

Well, I figure if you stick marbles or rocks all the way up to the top of the overflow the water could trickle down between instead of crashing at the bottom.

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Well, I figure if you stick marbles or rocks all the way up to the top of the overflow the water could trickle down between instead of crashing at the bottom.

 

I would be worried about things building up in the marbles. In my tank, the water only falls a few inches. The drains have standpipes with screens to avoid the fall and noise. I think that is typical. The overflow designs are to minimize the "toilet flushing" sound from the standpipe not the fall in the overflow.

 

HTH

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  • 2 weeks later...

just thought i would add some of the diagrames ive collected sorrry im not sure whos they are

post-24770-1202589097_thumb.jpg

post-24770-1202589135_thumb.png

post-24770-1202589191_thumb.jpg

post-24770-1202589238_thumb.jpg

post-24770-1202589277_thumb.png

post-24770-1202589306_thumb.jpg

post-24770-1202793925_thumb.png

post-24770-1202793937_thumb.png

Edited by bitts
  • Like 1
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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/29...ng-Kits/elbow/0

 

Can anybody think of a reason that these bulkhead kits wouldn't work for a "herbie" method setup? My bottom glass is tempered so if I'm going to drill I have to go through the side glass and these seem to be ideal.

 

 

looks good from here. also look at gl#######s.com if you need a hole saw.

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CONSTANTNE

I have a question. I just setup an external durso overflow. I have a ball valve connected to the drain to control the flow and level. Why do I need a hole on the top of the PVC cap? Doesnt the ball valve do the same thing as the hole? Or is the hole some kind of precaution measure? Thanks

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Urchinhead

If I remember right the hole prevents a siphon and vacuum from occuring. It does this by allowing air into the pipe. It also can be used to slow down the drain speed.

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  • 5 months later...
Justin Streitler

I have read just about everything I can, and i still dont understand what the point of the "t" with a hole drilled at top is for. My plan is for 1" bulkhead about 2" from bottom of tank, going to a 90 elbow to sump, with a gate valve inline. For a return I will have a mag5(trial) pumping up to two retruns(ball or gate valve on that if needed). My tank is going to have an internal center overflow, in my mind as long as i have enough empty area in my sump to take on water in a power outage, then the water lever drops below the overflow "teeth" level then now more water can enter into my overflow. With that all being said what would be the point of the "t" and the small hole drilled. Please forgive my ignorance but i do not understand the need for it.

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I have read just about everything I can, and i still dont understand what the point of the "t" with a hole drilled at top is for. My plan is for 1" bulkhead about 2" from bottom of tank, going to a 90 elbow to sump, with a gate valve inline. For a return I will have a mag5(trial) pumping up to two retruns(ball or gate valve on that if needed). My tank is going to have an internal center overflow, in my mind as long as i have enough empty area in my sump to take on water in a power outage, then the water lever drops below the overflow "teeth" level then now more water can enter into my overflow. With that all being said what would be the point of the "t" and the small hole drilled. Please forgive my ignorance but i do not understand the need for it.

Your post confuses me a bit.

 

First, how is the hole 2" up if your overflow is in the center? If you have a hole simply 2" up, then the water level in your tank will be 2" from the bottom, and I'm pretty certain you don't want that.

 

Also, putting a valve of any sort on your return line is a bad idea, unless you have a backup that can handle the full flow in an emergency. You must let gravity do the work at its own rate.

 

The hole in the "t" is to help with noise, If it is not present, there will often be a suctioning noise that repeats itself every few seconds, like a toilet flushing. It can be pretty loud and annoying. Air must have access to the tubing if this is to be prevented.

 

Its known as the "durso" method. If you can drill two holes and don't want the "T", do a search on the "herbie method". It works also.

HTH

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Justin Streitler

sorry about the confusion, it is the herbie method im talking about here is a diagram of what i have planned.

 

post-39919-1226296935_thumb.jpg

 

Now what if you just had an elbow coming out of tank? What would be the need for the connections in the first picture?

 

post-39919-1226297506_thumb.jpg

 

Water would always be above the bulkhead, and if power outage happens, it would drain out the wier because there is no syphon action. Correct me if im wrong please.

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