Micro-Reefs Aquariums Posted August 28, 2005 Author Share Posted August 28, 2005 This morning my 72 bowfront was 83.7 and my holding tank which has a MH pendant was at 79.7. That's 4 degree difference with no lights. I just need to see what type of chiller to get. I'm leaning on the 1/5 horse power JBJ chiller. They have a really neat system online that ask you questions to determine the size chller for you tank. That unit online is about $559 bucks that comes shipped and no tax and you get a free pump... Pretty penny but worth it if you ask me, I would like to keep my tank at 77 degrees. I guess I could go with a smaller chiller but I think it would be overworked and not worth it, if it breaks down. What do you guys think, any thoughts? Mike Quote Link to comment
phergus_25 Posted August 28, 2005 Share Posted August 28, 2005 I would say if you have the $$ its alot better to over power than underpower and have the equiptment break and then end up killin your tank. its going to look awsome. cant wait to see it stocked. -greg Quote Link to comment
Micro-Reefs Aquariums Posted August 28, 2005 Author Share Posted August 28, 2005 Thanks Phergus, More calculations show that I will require the 1/4 horsepower chiller. It's not a big difference in price and it's a security measure that chilling keep stable and running a smaller one might lead to the desstruction of my reef tank... Going higher will not keep my chiller on all the time, that would burn my PG/E bill and keep my living room too hot... Mike Quote Link to comment
Micro-Reefs Aquariums Posted August 29, 2005 Author Share Posted August 29, 2005 In the meantime here are some more pics of my holding tank. All the live rock has been removed and placed in my maintank. I was scared that the loss of live rock would create an ammonia spike, but, with two hang on filters I'm doing okay. What I like about the close up pics is how nice the corals come out with 70 watts of metal halide. Enjoy, Mike Quote Link to comment
calvin415 Posted August 29, 2005 Share Posted August 29, 2005 Man that clam is pinching... Quote Link to comment
Micro-Reefs Aquariums Posted August 30, 2005 Author Share Posted August 30, 2005 I'm running a 72 bowfront reef ready with a mag 7 at 480 GPH. I then have a reef keeper to run three powerheads and after much research went with the Maxi-jet 1200. The only problem is they give off 20 watts each, that threw my tank up to 86 degrees with no lights. Without the powerhead the tank would go as high as 82 degrees. So I'm at an extra 4 degrees of heat. I then find out about the Penguin 1140 does 300 GPH, thats 5 more than the Maxi-jet 1200 and it has a 10 foot long cord longer than standard 6 feet. And here is the best part, IT'S ONLY 11 WATTS OF POWER. That is 9 watts cooler per head. Okay Maxi-jet supporters, tell me why I shouldn't take back my powerheads and get three Penguins??? Oh yeah, they are pitch black in color, that would also match my return pipe. The maxijets are grey in color... Mike Quote Link to comment
DarkXerox Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Heh whats interesting is that I know someone setting up a system to do heat exhange (with titanium heat exchangers) that run in his backyard underground to cool his tank. Quote Link to comment
Micro-Reefs Aquariums Posted August 30, 2005 Author Share Posted August 30, 2005 Can you go more into detail about this setup, sounds very interesting... Mike Quote Link to comment
Whitten Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 I think I see where Dark is going with this so I will try and run with it. There have been several people who have dug 7-9 foot trenches and then put several feet worth of PVC pipe in it that conected to their aquarium. Basicly what they did was use the earths normal ground temp of 72 degrees and harnessed that by snaking pipe through which they had a pump that would turn on periodicly and circulate water through it until the tank cooled down. Basicly you are using the earth as a radiator, and since the ground will stay at 72 degrees year round so long as you are well below the frost line...then you should have absolutly no problems cooling a tank, or in some cases keeping tank temps about 72 degrees at all times. It really is a brilliant idea but take a bit of dirty work. Quote Link to comment
Kabe Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 The airconditioner in our house uses the same principle that whitten used. But that would seem highly unpracticle to do that for a tank. Quote Link to comment
yoshiod9 Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 is it me or do your sps look really...well...brown? how bad are your nitrate/phosphate levels? or is that just cuz they were under pc's for awhile? thank god you're setting up a tank with better lighting...your poor acros are dying for a sunny day. Quote Link to comment
ccjung Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 I think its from the 70w pendant. From what I recall its a 6500K. When his Acros were under PC, I think they had more coloring, since the setup had more intensity and spectrum, due to distance. Lets hope he gets his heat issues dialed in so he can put those babies into some good light. Chris Quote Link to comment
bbkid43 Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Man that clam is pinching... yea i agree with calvin. your clam seems to be pinching quite a bit. i would try to get that cleared up asap. heres a good page with info about pinching mantles if you dont allready know... http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showth...read.php?t=7262 Quote Link to comment
Micro-Reefs Aquariums Posted August 30, 2005 Author Share Posted August 30, 2005 All my corals have gone through a major change in tanks and lighting. From PC to MH and it's only been less than one week. I'm trying to monitor the water because I don't have that much live rock to keep away an ammonia strike. I had no idea about pinching on clams, thanks for the heads up. The smaller one has always been like that, since I got it, however, it looks like it's adjusting to the MH. Chris is right, under my PC light they looked nicer, under my new MH it's a 6,500 K and the brown comes out more. I just want them to make it through, since my 72 gallon won't be ready untill about 2 more weeks. Mike Quote Link to comment
lgreen Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 did you already get a chiller? I am suprised no one recommended a pacific coast chiller. Many have reported even just the $350 1/10 HP model being able to bring a 125 gallon tank down like 3-4 degrees no problem. i would imagine you have connections at jbj though... Quote Link to comment
phergus_25 Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 mike I'm gonna have to go with that you still wont have enough flow, i have 700 GPH goin through my 20L and i feel like I need more. If I were you I would throw two of the larger Seios in in addition to your current flow. on another note I use the pinguin Phs and they work well for me so far. -greg Quote Link to comment
lgreen Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 i agree with greg. more flow. Shoot for more like 20-40 times the tank volume per hour. i am selling two 1100 seios (used for like a 2 weeks) if that interests you. Quote Link to comment
Micro-Reefs Aquariums Posted August 31, 2005 Author Share Posted August 31, 2005 Phergus, When you say you have 700 gph, are you taking into consideration head pressure? In other words, I hope you are not runnig a mag7 with 700 gph and feel you are getting that flow. I'm not sure just making sure... Lgreen, thanks for the offer, I might take you up on that but you have to remember I don't have a benchmark for flow yet other than my sand in the bottom parting like the read sea. I haven't placed anything in my tank yet, it's still cycling and I'm still in the market for a chiller and my lights haven't arrrived. Mike Quote Link to comment
Rott Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 Mike where did you get the sump from. I've Been looking for the same thing is it arcylic or glass?. Tnx. Greg Quote Link to comment
Micro-Reefs Aquariums Posted August 31, 2005 Author Share Posted August 31, 2005 Rott, It's made by Oceanic and it's model 1. You can purchase it at any LFS or online. It's made from glass and not acrylic. Mike Quote Link to comment
mdt178 Posted September 1, 2005 Share Posted September 1, 2005 Hard core SPS reefers usually employ close loop and Tunze/SEIO as their primary flow. MJs are nice because they run for years, but generally only used to target dead spots in those setups. I also agree that your clam and acros are itching for more light. P.S. If you don't want a third pump (for the chiller) in the sump, you can replace the Mag7 with a 9.5 or 12 and T-off the return line to the chiller. A temp blowing at your sump will also help. Quote Link to comment
Micro-Reefs Aquariums Posted September 2, 2005 Author Share Posted September 2, 2005 What can anyone tell me about the Tunze stream powerhead? Is it worth the money, they are so huge and bulky, it seems to take away from the tank. I like to conceal all the mechanical stuff... Mike Quote Link to comment
gjones Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 go for a mag 36 for your return (we sold one at work the other day for around $300) that should give you plenty of flow, about 45 times per hour, after head loss, but i doubt that the overflow could handle it. I have about 1,200 gph on my 29. The seio pumps are fairly small, i don't know about the tunzes. Quote Link to comment
Pili Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 They do have special fake rocks that they make to hide the tunze pumps. Should look pretty natural after all the coraline covers it. Quote Link to comment
NewSchool Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 Mike, I have a couple ideas, I hope you don't mind. First I think you should go with a Mag 12 for your return. Your overflow will def. be able to handle it, mine does, and you'll increase flow in the tank. I'd also seriously think about a SEIO 1100 run 24/7. If you are going for a SPS tank you're going to want some sustained flow. You're not going to get the type of flow you want with those powerheads. If it's not too late, I wish I had done it, you should consider setting up a manifold. Then you can get rid of all the powerheads including the SEIO, cleaner look and more flow. Quote Link to comment
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