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tnguy86's via aqua


tnguy86

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Derby Reefer

What lighting are you using what coral do you have, give us the specs. But I do really like your tank. It has a nice flow to it.

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11g Via Aqua

20 lbs aragalive ls

~25 lbs fiji aquacultured lr

 

Equipment

2 maxijet 1200's, with outlut nozzle cut off, on 15 minute timers

AquaC Remora with another maxijet1200

CoolWorks Iceprobe with controller modded INTO the remora

heater

unknown powerhead

mag3??? closed loop

Coralvue 150w reeflux bulb with the Coralvue E-Ballast

walmart fan

 

Livestock

2 black clowns

yellow watchman goby

nassarius snails

star snail

astrea snail

scarlet hermits

bumblebee snails

 

 

Corals

ora blue tort

ora green milli???

various acros

red flowerpot

pom pom xenia

brown star polyps

green star polyps

2 varieties of orange skirt zoanthids

green skirt green mouth zoanthids

various montiporas...

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Derby Reefer

Well done mods. Those are very impressive. The PH that have the cut off output heads do they create a slow-large moving water stream. If so I have never heard of that before but it make good sense.

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i have the heater keeping my tank above 78 and the iceprobe keeps my tank below 82....my tank stays below 81 when the a/c is on, which is pretty much all day in louisiana...

 

the ph's which output pipe cut off gives a little more flow than with it on, but it's still strong..that's why i have it pionted against the glass.....with it configured that way, and being on a 15 minute timer, the flow is pretty erratic...and the curved front glass helps out a lot....the only constant laminar flow that i have right now is the mag 5....i'm happy with my turbulent flow..

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thanks...i love caps, and just got my hands on a green one for cheap at a reef meeting...it browned out bc it was a long drive home, but i want to see how long before it takes for the reeflux bulb to color it back up...

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it was really easy...

 

here's how to mod the mh into the via aqua fixture

 

....it's really really easy...all you do is take the screws off the end of the fixture, slide out the coverings, and rip out the inside

 

i just take the sockets to walmart and see which screw and nut will fit through the socket holes.....

 

 

 

....then you get your retrokit (bulb ballast sockets......measure out how far the sockets have to be by using your bulb and drill through using a small drill bit...i used my dremel......make sure that it's not too tight so that you can still use the spring loading mech

 

once you have your sockets in place, test that it fits your bulb, then take it out so you don't crack it....

 

here's probably the hardest part.......pull the powercord from the ballast though the hole that the pc powercord used to go though...this'll make your fixture look clean....

 

 

then connect your wires and light it up....it should work by now.....

 

replace the plastic covering with either a 4 x 14 3/4 inch of 1/16 inch glasss piece which will cover the entire length of the fixture, or if you want to keep the metal sides, get a 4 x 10 3/4 inch piece.....

 

screw the sides back on and your set...

 

hth

tai

 

 

notes: if you ever get the glass wet, it'll crack.....otherwise, you're okay....i used to crack mine often bc i'd get it wet during a water change and i'd have to get a new piece....if it does crack, it won't fall into the aquarium bc it fits so snugly into the fixture, so you don't have to worry about it.

 

dont try to add any moonlights in bc if there is any plastic near the bulb, it'll melt...trust me on this...

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can anyone recommend an auto topoff system for me??

 

californiareefs.com

reeftec.com

floatswitches.net...

 

i want an electric on with a snail guard..

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i love your instructions for putting in the halide, because I was saving up to do the same thing to my via-aqua 11 gallon, but I plan on using only a 70w 14k mh.

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Very nice I just bought a 12 gallon via aqua today. I am going to take some tips from your tank.

Can you post some more pictures of the closed loop (intake)?

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