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DamageInc

How do you get the stock fans to run 24/7?

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DamageInc

Anyone know how you get the stock fans to run 24/7 on a 24g nanocube? The fans are on the same ballast as the lights and when the lights go off so do the fans.

 

Thanks for any info you can provide.

 

Damage

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artarmon42

You'll have to wire them separately to another AC/DC voltage adapter.

What are you trying to do?

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DamageInc

I just got the 24g dx and purchased a sunpaq 2x32w retrofit with electronic remote ballast. The retrofit will be for actinics only and will go on 1-2 hours before the stock 50/50's.

 

I'm just worried that the 1-2 hours of actinics with no fans might heat up the cube to much and cause an unnecessary spike in temps.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Damage

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DamageInc

I just got the 24g dx and purchased a sunpaq 2x32w retrofit with electronic remote ballast. The retrofit will be for actinics only and will go on 1-2 hours before the stock 50/50's.

 

I'm just worried that the 1-2 hours of actinics with no fans might heat up the cube to much and cause an unnecessary spike in temps.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Damage

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artarmon42

IMHO, the stock fans are barely sufficient to cool the stock hood.

 

As you're going to open the hood up to put in the retros, rip out the stock fans, replace them with something more powerful (I have used and like this model), and then wire them up to a variable voltage adapter.

 

Make sure they blow air OUT of the hood for maximum cooling.

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DamageInc

artarmon,

 

Your absolutely right. For five bucks it's worth it. What makes one fan better than the other? I assume it's the rpm's.

 

Thanks

 

Damage

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artarmon42

As Chronicles taught me, it's the CFM (Cubic-Foot of air moved per Minute) rating.

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DamageInc

Oh, I see. That's what I will be looking for them lots of CFM's!

 

Damage

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artarmon42

As a general statement, CFM will be affected by the following (listed in order of impact):

1) Bigger fan (e.g. 120mm vs 60mm)

2) Thicker fan (e.g. 25mm vs 15mm)

3) How fast it spins (RPM)

 

Also be aware of the noise (dB ) rating.

Nowadays most fans are either ball bearing or magnetic, so they're reasonably quiet. But more CFM also equals more noise :)

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Nickeleye
Originally posted by artarmon42

As a general statement, CFM will be affected by the following (listed in order of impact):

1) Bigger fan (e.g. 120mm vs 60mm)

2) Thicker fan (e.g. 25mm vs 15mm)

3) How fast it spins (RPM)

 

Also be aware of the noise (dB ) rating.  

Nowadays most fans are either ball bearing or magnetic, so they're reasonably quiet. But more CFM also equals more noise :)

 

I was just about to say the same in not as many words.

 

Running a third bulb on its own ballast for a purpose such as mentioned above is really at the risk of the user. I think you'll be far from melting down the hood or significantly increasing water temperature from just 24w of lighting for about an hour before and after your main lighting period (i.e. dusk/dawn). However, this probably would have a more adverse affect on the life of your bulb. Without ventilation on at the time I would have two T5 actinics on for a dusk/dawn effect I ended up burning up nearly have a dozen T5's within a couple of months. I have since decided to power both fans via AC adapter and the AC adapter is plugged into a timer so they come on when the first lights turn on and turn off when the lights turn off.

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DamageInc

Nickeleye,

 

It's actually 64 watts that will be running an hour before the stock lights come on. I'm putting in a 2x32w sunpaq retrofit. I'm going to be using 2 32x actinic 03/actinic blue bulbs.

 

How much do you think those will heat the hood and water if no fans are on?

 

I'm definitely going to rewire the fans to a separate dc adapter so they can run on a timer of 24/7 if needed.

 

Thanks

 

Damage

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DamageInc

artarmon,

 

I'm looking for a fan that's not to loud but put's out more cfm's than the stock fans. The fans you showed me look pretty much like what I want.

 

I've been reading some other boards and they say the stock fans run 14 cfm's.

 

Thanks

 

Damage

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Nickeleye

I'd look at 60mm fans that would fit in the same spot the fans are in now. Stock fans are 60x20mm. Check out performance/overclocking related PC hardware sites. They usually have lots of choices in fans and give you sizes, CFM ratings and db levels.

 

And, yes, in your case I'd want fans on during those pre/post stock lighting situations you described. I don't really see why you'd have to have the fans on when the lights are off, but I guess that's your own perogitive.

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DamageInc

I thought I read a post from Chris regarding some hoods he modded stating the fans must run 24/7. I could be wrong.

 

Artarmon hooked me up with a link above to some good 60mm fans.

 

Damage

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artarmon42

Yup, I was looking around for the best CFM/dB ratio for my mod and those were the best I came across.

 

The stock fans are 60mm x 15mm (high).

14CFM is around what I would have expected.

 

Just be aware that if you get 60mm x 25mm, there will be less clearance from the top of the fan to the splashguard. I'm not sure about the 24G hood, but on my 12G hood I had to use one lower profile fan (15mm) in order to fit my fuge light back there.

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Nickeleye

Chris and I actually suggest using a 60x10mm fan in the rear if you plan on doing the fuge light mod. In case you all didn't know, I've become a new addition to nanocustoms as of about three weeks ago. So if anybody has any questions specifically about anything we do I will do my best to give an answer.

 

Damage - The story on the fans running 24/7 with our nanocustoms mod is that we wire up both fans directly to an AC adapter plug, which exits the rear of the hood where the ballast cords enter the hood. Once you hook up the AC adapter to the plug and plug in the AC adapter the fans will run 24/7 unless you unplug the AC adapter, power goes out, adapter fails, put the adapter on a timer (as I do), etc.

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DamageInc

Nickeleye,

 

Thanks for the info. I was just going to ask what width fans to use in the 24g. I am not going to put a fuge light. Will a 20mm wide fan fit on the 24g?

 

I plan on putting the new fans on a variable power adapter and probably on a timer as well.

 

Damage

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Nickeleye

I believe 60mm x 20mm fans should work just fine on the 24g. Since no fuge light will be involved there shouldn't be any issues.

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DamageInc

This is what I picked up. Pretty good cfm's and dba at 28.

 

Startech.com 6X2 cm Quiet PC Computer Cooling CPU Case Fan Motor with TX3 Connectors - FAN6X2TX3

 

Item#: CXLVWF

 

Our Price: $5.99

 

 

Product Description

StarTech is a high technology company that designs, manufactures and distributes a complete line of computer cables, parts, peripheral sharing and networking products, and productivity enhancing accessories.

 

With StarTech.com's new Replacement Ball Bearing Fan, you can avoid overheating problems caused by fan failure.

 

Buy.com Sku: 10261972

Manufacturer: STARTECH.COM

Mfg Part#: FAN6X2TX3

 

 

Features Product Description - StarTech.com system fan kit

Product Type - System fan kit - 60 mm

Features - Dual ball bearing

Dimensions (WxDxH) - 2.4 in x 2.4 in x 0.8 in

Weight - 1.3 oz

Manufacturer Warranty - 1 year warranty

 

Technical Specs Product Type - System fan kit

Width - 2.4 in

Depth - 2.4 in

Height - 0.8 in

Weight - 1.3 oz

Cooler Fan Diameter - 60 mm

Fan Height - 20 mm

Rotation Speed - 4500 rpm

Air Flow (Total) - 22.1 cfm

Power Connector - 3 pin

Features - Dual ball bearing

System Fan Diameter - 60 mm

Service & Support - 1 year warranty

Service & Support Details - Limited warranty - 1 year

Min Operating Temperature - 14 °F

Max Operating Temperature - 176 °F

Sound Emission - 28 dB

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Nickeleye

Should work. I'd cut off those molex connectors one you get the fans and splice the positive and negatives together and hook them up to an AC adapter plug and you're done.

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DamageInc

That's the plan. I just bought a 12v 1000ma ac adapter from radioshack and also some heat shrink tubing.

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Chronicles

Awww you make me proud artarmon :happy:

 

So far the best fan I like is:

 

FAN-AL6025B.large.jpg

 

# Rated Voltage: 12VDC

# Rotation Speed: ~4000 RPM

# Current: 0.16

# Air Flow: 21.5

# Air Pressure: 4.27

# Noise: Less than 30 dBA

# Frame Size: 60mm x 60mm x 10mm

# Frame Construction: Aluminum

# Fan blade is chromed plastic.

# Connector: TX3

# Manufacturer: Evercool

 

They are more pricey then most fans, but also are thinner and spin a little slower. You'll get more noise with thicker fans in the 12DX because of the air pressure that's formed. Also the faster the fan spins, the more high pitched the "whine" is, which makes it more noticeable. Here's some things that make "noise". Try mounting your fans with small rubber washers for a little less noise.

 

 

Vortex Shedding

This is a broad band noise source generated by air separation from the blade surface and trailing edge. It can be controlled somewhat by good blade profile design, proper pitch angle and notched or serrated trailing blade edges.

 

Turbulence

Turbulence is created in the airflow stream itself. It contributes to broad band noise. Inlet and Outlet disturbances, sharp edges and bends will cause increased turbulence and noise.

 

Speed

The effect of speed on noise can best be seen through one of the fan laws:

 

dB1 = dB2 + 50log10 (rpm1/ rpm2)

 

Speed is a major contributor to fan noise. For instance, if the speed of a fan is reduced by 20%, the dB level will be reduced by 5 dB.

 

Fan Load

Noise varies as the system load varies. This variation is unpredictable and fan dependent.

However, fans are generally quieter when operated near their peak efficiency.

 

Structure Vibration

This can be caused by the components and mechanism within the fan, such as residual unbalance, bearings, rotor to stator eccentricity and motor mounting. Motor mounting noise is difficult to define. It should be remembered that cooling fans are basically motors and should be treated as such when mounted.

 

Also I forgot to say, I have some of these fans (too large for the rear though). I haven't done this but it would do the same thing, take a dremmel and notch your fans like this;

 

product.jpg

02.jpg

01.jpg

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artarmon42

And the Oracle of Cooling has spoken!

bowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gif

 

Learn, people, learn! :woot:

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DamageInc

Yeah, that was quite a lesson. Great work Chronicles.

 

I will try to use some rubber washers.

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