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Removing lid from 24g nano cube


Surfzup2k4

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I see how it removes (I think :D ) it just seems like I am going to break something. Do you just have to pull really hard or is there a specific angle it needs to be at? I just hate to pull too much on it and pop the tank or anything, I am already nervous about that as it is. Thanks, I need it off for some lighting upgrades. :)

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You have to have the hood 90 degrees to the tank and it takes a lot of force to get it loose (stupid design). With the hood at 90 degrees, work one side out towards the front of the tank and then when it comes loose work the other side out. Did I say it takes a lot of force and it is a stupid design? I'm taking mine out tomorrow to add fans and some lighting mods and I'm going to do something about the stupid design.

 

(Yes, I think it's a stupid design!)

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If I'm not mistaken you need to keep the lid flat to remove it. The 24 is different from the 12. You might want to do a thread search b4 you try.

bob

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Originally posted by NanoBob

If I'm not mistaken you need to keep the lid flat to remove it.  The 24 is different from the 12.  You might want to do a thread search b4 you try.

bob

 

To get the hood off my 24g I had to have it raised to 90 degrees. (Did I say it's a stupid design?);)

 

Chris K: I'm going to put in 2 more fans,blowing into the hood from the side vents. I'm also going to mount LED moonlights in each side. They will be dual 468nm LED's w/ lenses to spread out the light. Also going to mount dual 430nm LED's. I'm also considering removing the splash guard and just using 1/4" acrilic setting on the trim lip to improve airflow & cooling. Plus it will open up some space for more lights.

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doncb,

 

Is it possible to fabricate some acrylic to cover the stock fans? I hear that's a flaw in the desigin in the 2004 24g nanocube.

 

Thanks

 

Damage

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Originally posted by DamageInc

doncb,

 

Is it possible to fabricate some acrylic to cover the stock fans?  I hear that's a flaw in the desigin in the 2004 24g nanocube.

 

Thanks

 

Damage

 

I know there are no mounting studs on the 24g like there are on the 12g. From what I see there are two ways to do it.

 

1) Make a form fitting piece to cover the back hood area and use the 2 screws that hold the cover over the wiring in the back.

 

2) Use a piece of lexan or acrilic cut to fit the lip on the upper tank trim from the very back up to the front hatch (but not all the way to the very front).

 

I am going to try #2. I am going to remove the stock splash guard too. I think this will do 2 things.

 

a) It might give me enough room at the rear reflector to put in a small PC lamp and I am planning on mounting a lamp for a fuge anyway.

 

b)More importantly it will have the fans draw air from the front of the tank back across the lamps and out the back. I am also going to add 2 fans at the side vents blowing in to the hood.

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doncb,

 

Keep me updated on your progress. I don't have my 24g yet so I have nothing to go on. I was waiting for the "alleged" revamped 2005 24g but who knows how long it will take for them to come out.

 

In the meantime I may buy the latest 24g and add a pc retrofit for additional lighting.

 

The fans sucking up saltwater through them is an issue accorindg to Christ from nanocustoms as well as the ********* issue. If a splashguard can be fabricated to cover the fans it should resolve those problems.

 

Thanks for your info.

 

Damage

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DamageInc:

 

Didn't get to do everything but here are some interesting findings.

 

I installed 2 CPU cooler fans (2") on the side vents of the hood (running just under full speed)with all extra vent area blocked off. I decided to have them blow out like the stock fans and will have them running 24/7 to help w/condensation. With the stock lights & splash guard here are temperature readings after 30 minutes with the lights on:

 

Temperature of air exhausted from fan.

 

Left rear (stock fan): 82 degrees

Right rear (stock fan): 85 degrees

 

Front Left (new 2" fan): 83 degrees

Front Right (new 2" fan): 100 degrees :o

 

I won't be able to get a 1/4" piece of Lexan for a couple of days. It will be interesting to see how it affects the temps. One thing I am considering is to remove some of the grile over the fans. There isn't enough space for the air flow and cooling could be improved by opening the griles.

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doncb,

 

I think that is a good idea about opening the grill over the fans. How is your water temp? Before and after the new fans.

 

The air temps seem ok as long as they don't transfer that much heat to the water. And what's up with that new front right fan?

 

Damage

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Originally posted by DamageInc

doncb,

 

I think that is a good idea about opening the grill over the fans.  How is your water temp? Before and after the new fans.  

 

The air temps seem ok as long as they don't transfer that much heat to the water.  And what's up with that new front right fan?

 

Damage

 

Just before I put the fans on, the water temp was 82. Right now it's 80. I'm hoping its due to better cooling. The front right fan is just behind the end of the lamps and I think it's pulling hot air from that area through the end of the reflector (there's a opening in the reflector). The other end has the sockets so the flow wouldn't be as good (IMO). I never understood the way JBJ did the back fans. They can't be pulling much of anything off the lamp area and would mostly pull from the back filter area.

 

Edit: I turned the main lamps off and within a few minutes the air temp from the right fan had dropped 15 degrees which confirms the 100 degree temp was due to heat from the lamps.

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doncb,

 

At least you know that fan is pulling out that hot air. JBJ really could have come up with better placement of the fans. I agree the rear fans can't be taking much heat from the fans out and there is only so much heat the fans can take out from that sump.

 

Do you think you can make "grille" type cuts in the reflector and then above the reflector in the hood to release some of that hot air?

 

Damage

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Ok guys, whats the final consensus to remove the hood? Should I leave the hood closed and pull towards the front of the 24gal nano or open the hood all the way until it's vertical(i.e. 90 degrees) and pull forward?

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Originally posted by DamageInc

doncb,

 

Is it possible to fabricate some acrylic to cover the stock fans?  I hear that's a flaw in the desigin in the 2004 24g nanocube.

 

Thanks

 

Damage

 

Yes, this is an issue with the '04 24g cubes. Their choice of splashguard design sucks something aweful. I suppose you could design your own clear plexi or acrylic splashgard, but it probably won't be easy and you'll need to make sure that the material will be able to stand up to the heat. You could also just wait until we get the new 24's in at nanocustoms and order a modded hood with extra lighting, etc. Lots 'o' options.

 

Nick

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Originally posted by marc

Ok guys, whats the final consensus to remove the hood?  Should I leave the hood closed and pull towards the front of the 24gal nano or open the hood all the way until it's vertical(i.e. 90 degrees) and pull forward?

 

Well, I have to have my 24g hood raised up to get it off. You have to work one side out and then the other. Done it 3 times this week installing mods in the hood.

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Nickeleye,

 

I had my presale order with you guys for the 2005 24g hood but I'm not very patient. I decided to buy the 2004 24g and mod the lights myself for now. If the 2005 comes out and my 2004 hood give my problems I will upgrade but at least I will have the tank up and running int he meantime.

 

Marc, You have to open the hood to 90 degrees just like doncb states. I just did it yesterday and it was pretty easy. You have to face the tank and grab the lower sides of the hood and work it back and forth from left to right and eventually it will come out.

 

Just be careful not to over work the hood and snap a hinge.

 

Damage

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