Open Discussion with Chris (nanocustoms)

[ccjung]

Thanks for grabbing that Nick,

 

Also, let me introduce Nick, the latest(and first) addition to the Nanocustoms team.

 

He will be doing some of the modding and craftsmanship, which has allowed me to pursue some R&D interests and hopefully come up with some cool products.

 

He has a great knowledge of the nanocustoms family of products, and just like me, has already done extensive modding to his own cube.

 

In fact, I liked his work so much I went "headhunting" and snatched his talents up.

 

Thanks For the Continued Support,

 

Chris

[dga]

Chris: So then if i physically unplug one of the bulbs on a 2x24 watt 50/50, 12 gal dx, so that i only have one bulb burning, am i over driving this bulb via the stock ballast?

[ccjung]

dga -

 

Yes, I spoke with Fulham a few weeks back about that in particular with the PONY Family of ballasts.

 

Since they are application specific, they arent as flexible in power management as the Workhorse/Longhorse family.

 

So when a PONY goes "undriven", it provides anywhere from 30-75% more power to the remaining bulb.

 

I have indepently confirmed this when running a Lux meter and a PONY with only 1 bulb being driven.

 

This however, will shorten bulb life.

 

FYI as well.. The PONY x26 series will drive the following bulbs:

18w PC

24w PC

27w PC - 27w PC are shorter, and in T6 format. IMHO, i dont like them very much, because of the bulb diameter and short form factor, but it is a way to get the most bang out of your ballast.

 

 

 

Chris

 

Victor- if you are reading this, I will send out the PONY 126 next week.

[RandyO]

could you tell me what the optional t5 is about? Is this just a bulb change?

[ccjung]

Hey Randy,

 

thanks for the heads up on the DOB issue... I recieved your order and expect to ship out Monday (after building).

 

The Optional T5 is a complete lighting fixture/ballast/bulb that can be added.

 

The T5s are NO (normal output) T5s, so they arent the bulbs that everyone is clamoring about, but they are a convenient way to get more light into a very small area.

 

Most PCs and those used in the nanocubes are T5 format (5/8" diameter). The bulb diameter is a way to relate the temperature of the bulb and is proportional to output.

 

So a T5 vs T8 will run hotter and with more power.

 

The Helios T5s are neat because they are relatively inexpensive and can be daisy chained, not to mention their small size.

 

If you look at larnies thread, you will see the thin single bulbs that are between the stock and 3rd PC locations. Those are T5s.

 

Hope this helps

 

Chris

 

ps. RandyO, i usually consult with my customers who order the 3.36 over the phone, but you have read my statement with respect to your current 24g, right?

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...&threadid=53255

 

I seek to offer quality first, but do realize that some arent looking for a monster 200+ 24g, but just for something more, the 3.36 will do a nice job of adding light, but the same issues that plague the 12g OG will do so in the 24g(2004 version).

 

Let me know if the newer canopy is something you want to defer or wait for.

[Tigahboy]

ygpm, chris.

[RandyO]

Well I am guessing that my need for the T5 is questionable. I do not keep any sps but some of my Rics are looking like they need more light, and also my super green frogspawn is looking less green, hence the upgrade. If you feel that the T5 would be a wise move, I would be more than willing to add that also. I guess I should defer to your judgement on that part.

 

EDIT: I have some rubble in the back and was going to put some macro also, perhaps I should put a fuge light in?

[embryoguy]

chris, when will the clear plastic fuge light covers for the nanocube 12 dx 04, be available and how much.

[Nickeleye]

Embryoguy - I've got to design one and Chris will then be in charge of determining a cost. I would imagine we could make this available on demand, however we need to determine the best type of material for the job and should be able to come up with pricing shorly thereafter. Chris may follow up with a little more information.

[landscaper85]

Chris I have thought about it what you had told me in the email you sent me about putting in 3x 24w bulbs and I agree with the evap issue. I really wish I could get that 3rd one in there though and use it as a straight actinic outlet.... but I guess the two 50/50 will work the best for me. but let me know if you think otherwise. I will wait for your reply before I do anything in the line of buying the kit.... well that and a little more money in my pocket even though I have enough there anyways.... anyways thanks for being helpful in my decision and hope to hear from you soon so I can get this tank going.

[landscaper85]

Oh Chris another thing I forgot to mention is that if I would go with the 3 24w bulbs in my hood I was going to hook the actinic up seperately and have it come on about an hour before the other 2 and go off an hour after.... I guess kinda of like a day time type of phase... tell me what you think. Also if 3 24w isnt a good idea can I keep my stock moonlighting with the new kit?

[Nickeleye]

landscaper85 - I'm actually using the 3 x 24w in the configuration you are talking about. I'm using 2x 50/50 and one 24w actinic on its own switch so I can easily create the dusk/dawn effect.

[embryoguy]

nickeleye,

 

all i need is to replace the dark fan cover with a transparent one. i bought an acrylic panel and traced it with the nano cubes cover. but cutting it was difficult. i was eventually able to do it bec its not a nice manufactured look that im looking for.

 

so i figured you guys at nanocustoms are easily able to do this.

 

thanks for your thoughts and efforts.

[Nickeleye]

Originally posted by embryoguy

nickeleye,  

 

all i need is to replace the dark fan cover with a transparent one. i bought an acrylic panel and traced it with the nano cubes cover. but cutting it was difficult. i was eventually able to do it bec its not a nice manufactured look that im looking for.  

 

so i figured you guys at nanocustoms are easily able to do this.

 

thanks for your thoughts and efforts.

 

 

Acrylic can really be a PITA. It's actually such a hard plastic that it often time makes it really hard to work with unless you've got the right tools. Depending on the thickness of the material and the composition of the tool you're using (drill bits, saw blades, etc.) will determine what kind of success you have when working with acrylic. Just out of curiosity, what thickness acrylic did you use?

[landscaper85]

Nickeleye thanks for the info... I have a few questions maybe you can help answer... 1 how much live sand do you think is okay in the nanocube... I have 20lbs I put in but is that to much... also how much of a water change do you preform and how often... I only ask because I have just set up and it is time for a water change... Thanks again for the info and I guess I am going to go ahead and order the 2.24 kit and retrofit the hood

[Nickeleye]

Originally posted by landscaper85

Nickeleye thanks for the info... I have a few questions maybe you can help answer... 1 how much live sand do you think is okay in the nanocube... I have 20lbs I put in but is that to much... also how much of a water change do you preform and how often... I only ask because I have just set up and it is time for a water change... Thanks again for the info and I guess I am going to go ahead and order the 2.24 kit and retrofit the hood

 

The sand department is really your call. I bought a fresh 20 lb. bag of fine aragonite sand for my 12 and I figured I'd use the whole thing. I was wrong. I was going for a DSB although not as deep as some go. My sand bed measures about 1-1/2" higher than the top of the gray plastic around the bottom of the tank. So all in all, I'd say I've got somewhere around 2-1/4" to 2-1/2" of sand. However, that being said, I'm using about 5 lbs. of base rock and plastic egg crate under the sand. In hindsight, the rock and egg crate probably were unnecessary, but they don't appear to hurt either. All of that being said, I probably used just over half of my sand. I just put a bit more sand to get some more bacteria and organisms in the sand to help filter the water.

 

I do a weekly water change of probably around 1.5 gallons. I drain the tank to about the bottom of where the intake grill is on the back wall. How long has your tank been set up? Are you sure it's time for a change?

 

Hope you like the 2.24 kit!

[embryoguy]

i got teh piece of acrylic from homedepo. its approx. a few millimeters. but the problem is that as it was cutting, it melted behind the cut.

 

 

hopefull you guys will have more sucesss.

[shao-lin nano]

I've only used jig saws to cut my acrylic and it does fine. Just don't let the blade run too fast because the friction caused will melt the plastic as you cut. Also, thicker acrylic are more prone to melting as you cut since there's more friction. Just cust slow and take many breaks. Hope this helped.

[drparker]

Originally posted by Nickeleye

Drew,

If you wanted independant control of all three bulbs I believe this would require the use of three balasts instead  

of just two as a normal 3.36 system would use. If you run a 3.36 with two bulbs on one ballast and the third bulb on a second ballast you still get a decent amount of control from timers. Depending on the moonlights used (i.e. R2 moonlights) you can have independant controls via a timer. The same should be true with the fuge light. The rear fans are replaced in a fuge-modded hood. All parts you need can be supplied.

 

Nick

 

Taking the family to my son's Marine boot camp graduation in SD, so I'll wait few weeks to order. Should I use the 12g fuge lite kit for the 24g?

 

With the 3.36 plus T5 do I need to add a fan behind the reflector to cool them or are the two that come with the fuge kit enough?

 

Thanks,

Drew

[ccjung]

Hi Drparker & thanks nick for handling some of these questions while i was out.

 

Drparker, the fuge light kit should work, but my main concern is the lack of the splashguard back there, so there is increased chance of failure due to the evaporation and condensation that will occur back there. My advice if you retain your current hood, is to put some plexi or something over the tank or that portion of the tank.

 

The Fuge light Kit, although the parts are universal, were chosen because of their fitment in the 12g and intended to be placed above a splashguard.

 

The cooling is sufficient with just the 2 fans 118w-125F (nanocustoms Max = 135 - Plastic will melt around 180).

 

If you are intent on upgrading your hood, please read the announcement about the 24g featured as a sticky in this forum. It addresses my concerns and limitations about the current 24g.

 

Its not impossible, but the kit from nanocustoms is very "LIMITED" to say the least, where in comparision, we expect 200+ watts in the to run around 120F in a 2005 model 24g hood.

 

Shaolin nano and a few others have done great DIY mods, but as a product, nanocustoms needs to last a long time, and sometimes that means compromising performance.

 

Adding fans above the reflector (if ventilated) would allow you more light, but will also create more noise, so these were factors that lead to my design decisions.

 

Hope this helps

 

Chris

[drparker]

Chris,

 

Thanks for the info. I've read it a couple of times. I plan to add the splash guard to the back. This is to hold me for 6 months or so until I talk the wife into second tank and that will be a fully loaded 2005.

 

Plus when you start selling the 2005 hoods I'll be able to pick-up some replaced 2004 hoods for cheap.

 

Brick posted in the general forum about a JBJ auto top off controller listed as a new product on thier web site. Is this something you can get? If so could you check on pricing for me?

 

Thanks,

Drew

[ccjung]

Yeah, im planning on offering both the ATO and TSS DigiLab. ATOs came in this week and I will get some later this week (tuesday or so). I will post an announcement in the Sponsor Section.

 

Chris

[dga]

Is nanocustoms web site down? i have been unable to connect since last friday.

*Chris if i want to run 1-24 watt 50/50 bulb in a 2 bulb ballasted setup, you state that the one bulb will be overdriven therefor reducing its life. do you have a replacement ballast that will be better suited for a one bulb setup. i run supplemental LED lighting with limited sps coral, thereby only needing one bulb burning for heat issues and personal preferances.

[ccjung]

My site has been having intermittent problems lately, so im jumping ship shortly to a new site/server.

 

The proper ballast for singlebulb operation is the PONY 126, available on my site (if it resolves for you).

 

Hope this helps

 

Chris

[dga]

ok im online at nanocustoms. i started to think it was operator error.(mine) i take it the ballast can be swapped out and rewired to the existing ballast box? effectivly reducing the voltage to the single bulb?

 

You state in another post that the stock OG ballast is junk which i assume is the pony 126. this is what i need. should i beware of anything here?