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steelhealr

24G Nano Cube DX Startup, Setup, Manual for newbies, in the works

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steelhealr

Multiple answers for this but the blue light is 'actinic'. Blue light penetrates deepest hence the deeper you go when you scuga dive, the more blue the water appears (yes, I was a diver). The zooxanthellae in the corals use light to produce food energy for the corals (photosynthesis). The light range is in the 10,000K range. The blue light penetrates deeper, adds color, photosynthesis, etc.

 

I have always kept my lights on a 12 hour off/on schedule. When you first start up, you want to start slowly. Also, FYI, when you change bulbs after a year, reduce your lighting intervial for a bit. The new stronger lighting can bleach your corals.

 

Welcome to the world of marine aquariums. They ARE the best. SH

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GTi

Awesome thread!

 

I have been going a little over a month on a BioCube 29 but only found this thread a couple of days ago.

 

I have also put live rock and chaeto in the rear (middle) chamber but I am trying some submersible LED lights (may not be strong enough - I will update when I have a couple of week's experience with them). I am using filter floss on top of the flow divider above the second chamber as it seems to pull out some chunks and get dirty quickly. Maybe when the chaeto is larger and denser it will perform this role and make the floss unnecessary.

 

On the subject of LR in the refugium, I have seen it said that it isn't necessary because there is so much more rock in the front of the tank. Apart from the inconvenience of removing the rock to clean the chamber, are there any disadvantages? I didn't think so and as I had a few pieces of ugly rock, surplus to my aquascaping needs, I broke them up and put them in the back. I think I will get a mesh bag to put them in to aid removal when cleaning.

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Fredwininger

Hi Steel,

 

I am a loyal follower of your beginner thread and want to say thank you for the diligent posts. I have been researching my reef tank for 3 months and finally started yesterday (I'm a veterinarian in academia....had to read until the ends of the earth before feeling ready). Your thread has taught me more than the other resources combined. I have acquired a 24 nanocube as a Craigslist donation and am planning on starting with an identical setup to your current mods. A few questions that I dd not find answers to in the posts...

1. What type of bags do you put the media in for chamber 1.

2. Is there any value to the in tank powerheads (ie. Koralia 1) over what you have done?

3. The back of my nano says date or production 12/2005 with a serial number...does this put it in the crack or non crack potential category?

4. Any other thoughts on the fuge setup?

 

Thanks,

Fred

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WickedBlue28

SH, Great thread! Thank you!!

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steelhealr

Personally, I don't think that LR rubble in the back chamber hurts anything. However, it DOES add more biofilter, the pieces are ugly and adding it in the main chamber would only take up more room. Bottom line: water management, no overstocking, compatibility, etc.

 

As for media bags, I use what comes with the product in general. ChemiPure comes with it's own bag. The others are a fine mesh type that closes with a plastic tie. The SeaGel was in a plastic type mesh bag.

 

Any powerhead, IMO, that adds motion and changes direction is of benefit, IMO. Anything that mimics wave motion, I think, is of benefit. Are there scientific papers out there supporting it, no. I think, the phrase in medicine is: 'evidence-based' results.

 

12/2005 is crack period.

 

As for fuge: green leafy vegetable (uh, chaeto). A highly photosynthesizing piece of green stuff is worth it's weight in gold.

 

SH

 

To Wicked...de nada. SH

Edited by steelhealr

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Pescar

Just read the entire thread all the way through...

 

Thanks a lot SH. Its people like you who keep the hobby alive by providing an established road for beginners to follow. B)

 

I have been looking at nano reefs for some time now. I have both your suggested books on order at the local bookstore. There is an Oceanic Biocube 14gallon at the LFS that keeps dropping in price begging me to buy it and bring life to it. I am holding out for a 28/29 gallong one though.

 

I have been into Oscars the last year and I am now ready to move onto marine.

 

Plans are the 28/29 gallong bio cube, some live rock, a clean up crew, a few manageable beginner corals, yellow banded possum wrasse, banded clingfish, and maybe one more small fish that I havent decided on yet.

 

I plan to use your thread as a bible as I start on my own nano reef. Tanks! :)

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steelhealr

De nada. Slow and steady......SH

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lilj104

I have a 12g JBJ nanocube, could i swap out the pump w/o having issues since the tank is already up and running?

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steelhealr

If you mean change now that you have it up and running, sure, why not?? The pump provides circulation. It's not quite the same eg if you wanted to put in a new piece of uncured LR. SH

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lilj104
If you mean change now that you have it up and running, sure, why not?? The pump provides circulation. It's not quite the same eg if you wanted to put in a new piece of uncured LR. SH

 

Thanks now could I used the same tube that connects from the stock pump with the new maxi-jet 900 or would I need a new tube to connect the pump with the part that pushes the water back into the tank

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R27

I'm trying to buy a 24g nanocube from someone. How can I tell what year it was made?

 

thanks

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surgicalsense

I bought mine off of a private party and honestly I did not even think about the production year when I purchased mine. Does the one that your interested in have the manuals and all of the working parts? If so, take a look at the parts and serial numbers scribed on them, usual things like that can help identify when it was produced and what location it came out of.

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steelhealr

The main issue occurred during the 2005/6 era. Others here would know better re: checking dates. They redesigned the tank shortly after so I think the cracking issue has been put to rest. SH

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Kestrel's Nemesis

I just wanted to say thank you for the informative thread.....I was gifted with a 12 gallon Nano Cube last month and have completely unexpectedly taken up saltwater!

 

I was desparately googling trying to find instructions on setting up the tank and getting started when your thread showed up. It has been the single best resource I have read for trying to get my tank set up.

 

One month in, I have my tank cycled and clean up crew in and am holding steady with perfect water parameters and now trying to figure out how to stock. So many fish so little tank space :).

 

I am trying to keep it as close to stock as possible, since I am so new to things and still don't have much of a clue as to what I am doing. It is so reassuring to see that I can have a neat looking tank without all of the bells, whistles, and modifications.

 

Thanks again!

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lilj104

maxi-900 and hydor flo in place and everything seems to be working fine thus far,

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steelhealr

Glad to hear lilj.

 

WTG Kestral. Take your time. Let all the instability settle before starting your reef. SH

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surgicalsense

Steelhealr,

 

Hello and thank you for this tread, it has been most helpful. I also have a 24g Nano. However, I am not doing all the modifications such as you have. I am pretty much running it stock. My question is the duckbill powerhead and its circulation. My scape is along the back side of the tank. Will many openings. But, I still have a small almost dead zone in the left back side corner of the tank. I was thinking of getting a MP10.

 

Do you have a suggested recommondations on placement?

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lilj104
Glad to hear lilj.

 

WTG Kestral. Take your time. Let all the instability settle before starting your reef. SH

 

I have a question for you

 

Since I put in the maxi-jet 900 and the hydor flo. The water compartments in the back are slightly different, like chamber one holders sights about 1" water above the black stock sponges. That didn't happen before it would just fall on the sponge and go through.

 

I notice a lot of bubbling going in my tank and I have to in put more water to decrease the bubbles when the back chambers are already filled. Is that normal.

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surgicalsense
I have a question for you

 

Since I put in the maxi-jet 900 and the hydor flo. The water compartments in the back are slightly different, like chamber one holders sights about 1" water above the black stock sponges. That didn't happen before it would just fall on the sponge and go through.

 

I notice a lot of bubbling going in my tank and I have to in put more water to decrease the bubbles when the back chambers are already filled. Is that normal.

 

Only if the chamber are not filled correctly. I was having this issue this week prior to my next WC. I have learned a trick to make sure that the chambers are filled and then the water mark on the main part of the tank. Bubbles are bad, basically you do not want the motor to burn out due to lack of water in chamber 3.

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lilj104
Only if the chamber are not filled correctly. I was having this issue this week prior to my next WC. I have learned a trick to make sure that the chambers are filled and then the water mark on the main part of the tank. Bubbles are bad, basically you do not want the motor to burn out due to lack of water in chamber 3.

 

Yea but that is the think, 3rd chamber is no different in water level as it was before, it is practically full its just the 1st chamber that seems to over fill a little, idk i put set that part in (maxi-jet900 n hydor flo on Satnite/Sun morning) but i do not want to be waking up to bubble every morning. All the chamber seem to be filled correctly as it was before, i get my in tank media stuff hopefully today

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lljdma06

Seeing as this system is on its sixth year, sheesh, it'll be seven soon! Are there any photo updates? I'm very curious to see developments with regard to coral growth & organisms. Not the fish per se, but the inverts & other micro organisms. Also, at this stage of the game, what is the maintenance regimen?

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surgicalsense
Yea but that is the think, 3rd chamber is no different in water level as it was before, it is practically full its just the 1st chamber that seems to over fill a little, idk i put set that part in (maxi-jet900 n hydor flo on Satnite/Sun morning) but i do not want to be waking up to bubble every morning. All the chamber seem to be filled correctly as it was before, i get my in tank media stuff hopefully today

 

Chamber 3 is not suppose to be as full as chamber 1 with the protein skimmer. Your pump is not taking in water like it suppose to be, thus pushing out air somehow... have you also checked the line near the powerhead? Air Leaks? You know like a straw with a hole in it, you will still push out the fluid but there will be a mixture of air. The motor will soon burn out if it continues to respond like that.

Edited by surgicalsense

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lilj104

thank you, i got it working good

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surgicalsense
thank you, i got it working good

 

 

Welcome... However, what was your find?

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abitsalty

First off HI!!

 

I am new to this salt water reef stuff say about 1 1/2 months

 

I have read quite a bit on this thread and like it.. I did jump around a bit. So I do have a question.

 

I have a 12 gal nano... the stock setup is 3 chambers. on the left is the top skimmer intake with 2 small 3x3 sponges,2nd chamber bio balls,rings and I think carbon, 3rd return pump. Upon reading this thread just tonight I have removed 1 sponge filter all rings and bio balls. But being half the size you are working with is there a similar way to work this out. i have been having high trates and have to clean glass every/every other day. NOT good assuming?

 

Livestock- 11lbs LR, 3 nassurus snails, 5 turbos,3 hermit crabs,1 clown,1royal gramma,1 pygmi angel, and three frags--candy cane, pumping xinya, and green paly.

 

the fish are about a week in and the coral is about 4 days.

 

1)What do I need to do to this to make it work right being that it is so small?

 

Thanks.

 

if needed --s.g. 1.024-1.025--water temp stays between 82-84-lights on at 11a.m. off at 10:30p.m. thats all i have on it so far.

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