Jump to content
bowfront26

macro in back of NC

Recommended Posts

steelhealr

Thanks Akayak....I think I"ll keep my 'fuge light' running opposite the tank lights and if there is spillover, let that continue during the day. Thanks. SH

Share this post


Link to post
emoutz

akayak65 - you just threw the cheato in the 3rd chamber with no mods and it is growing and doing fine? Pretty cool idea.

 

However if that is the case, how do we know whether the fuge light that steelhealr added is having an effect on the macro in his second chanmber?

Share this post


Link to post
steelhealr

Well...good question..if there actually IS spillover of light into the middle chamber, you wont' be able to discern between that and the 'fuge light'. I guess the best test is...if you don't mind losing some macro, is put it back there and see if it survives. I saw one post here where someone mounted a small reflector instead of a light to reflect light down into the chamber. As for me, my nitrates are dropping, the macro is green, so, I'm happy for the time being. SH

Share this post


Link to post
emoutz

I actually did just that a week ago when I got my tank. Pulled some macro off my LR and put it in the 2nd chamber with some LR rubble. Was mostly dead but is growing new shoots. Im thinking of adding the nanocustoms 13w light to the back too.

Share this post


Link to post
rocko

Any updates on the fuge light findings?

I also did some research on web, and it seems red and blue lights are best utilized by plants (same to macroalgae). However, red light seem to be used a lot in flowering process, which is what we want to avoid for macroalgae (either avoid this or light long hours per day to disrupt flowering process). Blue light is what is used mainly in growing leaves, so that's what we wanted. I am no authority to claim these, but do a search on web and these seem to be the main claims from a lot of people. Or, if not pure blue light, white light should also be ok for Chaeto, considering it has the reputation of not going asexual.

 

I have a 12 gallon, so the Odyssea T5 underwater light is not an option for me due to size. If I want to install one I'll have to cut a hole in the splashguard and I am reluctant to go for that yet. But for 24 gallon that's your best bet for Chaeto.

 

So now I am very tempted to buy the underwater LED light Soonerfan51

recommended from SuperLumination.com. Not only you can choose color and numbers of LEDs, but LED also produce low heat I assume.

 

A few options to consider:

1. The 3LED/8LED/24LED combo, as much we can squeeze in as possible into the back chamber. What I can think of is definitely stick one at the bottom of the hood directly above the middle chamber. Then if still not enough light for growth, throw one at the bottom of the chamber (hopefully without clogging the water flow).

2. The double 5 LED kit. So you got 10 LEDs in total, and I hope these can be used underwater.

3. The strobe light. It claims to be super bright, which is good. I have inquired with the company to see if the strobe can be turned off. I am not sure strobing light is good for either the plants or the fish (there will be some light leaking into the front), or the viewer's eyes.

 

Any thoughts? Someone who has already used these LEDs, any inputs on your experience and recommendations?

 

Rocko

Share this post


Link to post
rocko

alrighty, if anyone is interested, just got an update from superlumination, the strobe (super bright) version can not be kept lit at that intensity. Just what I guessed. :

 

Rocko

Share this post


Link to post
steelhealr

HI Rocko..my only update is that after more than a week, the macro is still green and my tank temps are fine. Since I recently completed my first cycle, it is still too early for me to make a comment on it's ability to reduce nitrates in a tank. For the being..it looks like I have a working refugium. SH

Share this post


Link to post
rocko

An update, I bought a white 24LED light as fuge light and a blue 3LED light as moonlight from autolumination.

 

The 24LED is fairly bright, but not as bright as a PC tube for sure. I have to cut an edge off the mounting base to fit it onto the hood. To my surprise, under the layer of chrome it's a layer of copper I believe. Bad stuff. So I end up put a layer of super glue on the cut to seal the copper inside. The light is now mounted on the hood with tapes facing the second chamber, and not touching the water, I am hoping the splashed/evaporated saltwater wont eat into the glue and contaminate the water with copper.

 

Anyway, in my opinion, it would not be a good idea to put one of these underwater, even if it is water tight (they claim it can be used underwater), and chrome is very resistant to etch. You never know if the chrome layer is done perfectly or has any leak. I would rather leave it on the hood like the way many people used these things as moonlight.

 

Btw, the LED does generate some heat, but in my opinion fairly small considering the LED is not immersed in the water.

Share this post


Link to post
revkev6

I was looking at using leds to light the fuge in my 24g nancube as well. here are some specs I found on some "ultra-ultra bright" LEDS. I almost died laughing at that description. the second page of the pdf file gives you the light spectrum of the LEDs. that has been the biggest drawback from what I've seen lately, finding the specs on these things.

 

http://www.allelectronics.com/spec/LED-112.pdf

Share this post


Link to post
rocko

White LED 4500-8000K? doesnt sound that bad to me.

Share this post


Link to post
steelhealr

I agree..that light spectrum is right in the range that you want, but, at 1 watt, you need at least 10-15 of them. SH

Share this post


Link to post
revkev6

it's not the watts, that you need to know. it's the lumens. how many lumens does a 10-15 watt florescent put out verses a directionally focussed led? these LEDs are rated at 60-90 lumens each.

Share this post


Link to post
rocko

Did a quick calculation, the 24LED white light I used gives 1077 lumen at 100 degree, averaging 45 lumen per LED. However, since the light is not totally directed into the fuge chamber, some is scattered onto the wall, I expect maybe half of that number is useful.

What about the typical PC light people used for nano fuge? I know they are brighter than LED from how it looks, just dont know how much brighter.

I hope eventually someone could come out with a recommendation of lumen and spectrum that fit best for a fuge in a nano.

Share this post


Link to post
rocko

By the way, someone discussed about this before, but I think the spill over light from the front would not work very well for fuge lumination. Simply turn off the light in the front, and lit a light, any light, at the top of the back (which is what did for my fuge light and moonlight), see how much light in proportion can be spilled over to the front. It looks to me pretty weak. So I would assume some PC light (or whatever light may be sufficient) over or in the second chamber is needed.

Share this post


Link to post
aaronfmd

i only use spillover light in mine. the macro is green and healthy. course i don't know if it is "thriving" and exporting nutrients. someday i'll order the one from nanocustoms and use it, but for now, my macro is healthy with just the spillover.

Share this post


Link to post
Web Guy

It will DIE with just with spill over light soon enough. Mine did and so did others. I have now installed a fuge light and it is growing and looking healthy.:)

Share this post


Link to post
kalireef

I have to agree with Web guy, it took time for the macro to breakdown (months) but eventually it did die and kept clogging my return pump slowing my flow rate.

Share this post


Link to post
steelhealr

My Halimeda is still alive and green after almost a month with the halogen submersible. I will admit that I put a small amount of Halimeda in my main tank and THAT is definitately greener than in the 'fuge'. As aaronfmd says, I can't be sure that the macro is 'exporting nutrients' or if it will be alive in a year. I added small amount of chaeto to the back to see if there is any difference between the two macros under the light. SH

Share this post


Link to post
aaronfmd

Won't argue with you, you are prob. right. All I know is that I've had it in for like 4 months and it is doing fine. Still planning on buying a fuge light, just haven't got off my lazy rear to do it.

Share this post


Link to post
steelhealr

I keep hearing about this Odyssea submersible, but, can't find anyone selling it or any links. I think if there is a small submersible CPF, I'd change up to that. SH

Share this post


Link to post
Web Guy

Yes, mine also broke down and I found it all in my pump. Now with the fuge light installed and a small peice of foam or filter besides the Cheato higher than it, it does not get into my pump.:)

Share this post


Link to post
steelhealr

Still easier.....my chaeto is taking off..it nearly fills the back chamber. It took awhile to adapt I think, and I lost my halimeda when I started out, but, it's been months now and the chaeto is alive and kicking. No drilling..dremelling. Just drop in the light and plug in. SH

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recommended Discussions

×
×
  • Create New...