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nanocustoms MH 70: 4 month update


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Hi everyone,


My Nanocube 12g DX (2005) cube has been running great over the last 4 months. Through extensive testing, i can safely say that it is a safe mod and is ALMOST ready for release to the general public.


I will be offering this mod/cube to a selected group of customers and nano-reef.com members in the coming weeks, with a projected public release date of July 2005.


Heres a pic with it on:


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12g DX (2005)

70w Aqualine 20000K

70w Fulham Highhorse Electronic HID ballast

7 w Fuge Light (production model is 13w PC)


Production model may vary. MSRP Starts at 449.00.

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Nudis have nearly pushed me out of the hobby.. ALWAYS FW DIP your new stuff...


As far as growth, theres been significant growth (until the nudis got it) but the most profound difference is in my collection of monti digis.


If you check out the "nanocustoms reef 2005 post, you can see a before/after pic of the montipora".


The high powered compact flouros are great for most species, and SPS will be OK under the PCs. Under MH, the SPS grow like weeds, so much so that I have to frag very very soon, not to mention ive moved teh SPS to avoid them touching.


On that note, since this is a nano, i guess some would prefer SPS that dont grow like mad.



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what ahppened nto trying to be a smart ass or critizize you i respect you alot, but the after shot has a algae problem and the clam is goe and the corals dont look too good

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algae is coralline growing on the glass, ive decided to go more "east coast" dirty look on my tank, mainly because my rockwork is so close I cant get the cleaner there.


The clam was lost believe it or not when i switched to MH from the 126w PC i was running with.. The MH has shadows, and since the intensity of the MH isnt as much as my PC system, it wasnt able to get the right light it needed. Later, when i moved him higher, something got into him and killed him.


Check out my thread in the "nanocustoms reef" post. I usually maintain a low pro on my MH because i dont want too many people rushing out to build one before i can prove its safe. I mainly post in off peak times on this site (weekends, etc).


Its a long story, but the lights doing great, my SPS is doing great, and I hate hate hate nudis.



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O ok I got ya, yea I have the east coast style tank kinda, But mainly on my sand. Ha Ha. Well its awsome I really like the way you see how far you can go.

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the before shot was my latest full tank, which was dated Jan 02


this is Feb 7, when i got my new monti. A month later, total devastation...

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Damn chris what the hell happened to your tank man? How often are you doing water changes in that tank? Isn't there cube skimmer mods and fuge mods?

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i do waterchanges every other week. I havent had much time to put in on my own tank because ive been busy building so much that by the time i get home, the lights are out.


The fuge mod i have has helped lower my trates, but i have a feeling something died/dying and sending my trates up..


The most heartbreak,like i said, is the goddamned nudis.. Everytime i look at my tank, i almost cry.. I think im gonna take some pieces out and donate them to my girlfriends 6.


Like i said before todd, when you gonna come to work with me? Less time building/tinkering with cubes, more time for my reef.. LOL...


I guess the good part out of this is there are more happy nanocube owners out there enjoying my(my tanks) sacrifice.


Comon, its only what 4 hours out of the way?




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They are the "zoo eating type". I also saw some on my SPS, which was according to most, uncharacteristic of them. nonetheless, a colony of eagle eyes.. gone. My green/brown monti... gone. My green monti cap, looks like it was also victim..



So so sad.



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Get a pseudochromis (preferably the less aggrressive fridmani). Bet they won't last too long ;)


Sorry for the hi-jack. Back to the original topic...

What's is your measurements of water temperature for the MH? I'm finding that while you can keep the hood cool, the MH will heat the water up over time (just physics of light/energy).

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I run about 6 F above ambient. When its hot, i put the canopy up.


Physics of Heating the Cube:


In heating the cube, there are several sources:


1. Pumps

2. Ambient temperature/environment

3. Lights

4. Heater


1. Pumps - pumps add energy to the system in order to pump the water and all thermal inefficencies exist as extra heat. For example, a pump rated at 15w is adding 15w of energy into the system, be it thermal or mechanical energy.


2. Ambient temperature/environment - The flow of heat will go in the direction of the thermal gradient (the differences in temp between the tank and environment). If the tank is hotter than the environment, it will exhaust heat into the environment and vice versa.


3. Lights - Light energy at the wavelengths of PC lighting arent very efficient at radiating heat energy into the system. Most of the heat buildup caused by the lights exists because of the temperature difference between the tank and the splashguard temps. Keep splashguard temps down, and keep the tank temps down.


With a MH however, things are different. MH emit in the Infrared and UV spectrums, which are very efficient at radiating heat.


In both cases, the temperature of the splashguard will convect energy into the area above the water and between the glass, I like to call this the "convection zone". Perhaps teh best way to keep an overheating tank cool (save the evap) is to blow air across this "convection zone". My very first mod used a 60mm fan mounted near the feeding door to get some of that heat away from the convection zone.



Artamon: "I'm finding that while you can keep the hood cool, the MH will heat the water up over time (just physics of light/energy). ";



Yes, its the radiation that is caused by the infrared and UV thats heating up the water. Coupled with the heat absorbtion from the glass and subsequent IR emission from it, it adds extra heat.


The fact of it is tho, 70w of energy is 70w of energy, and the heat from 70w PC is on par with that of MH, its just that the distribution is almost even on PCs and in 1 very intense patch near the ARC and all radiated surfaces.


the key to keeping tank temperatures low is to reduce all sources of heat, be they pumps, or other heat producing devices.


In your case, try your best to avoid the heater at all during the time you run your lights.


Hope this helps



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Good thoughts, thanks Chris.


I've got the 2 Rios in the intake compartment (like mike's). Will probably replace them with a more efficient Tunze or Seio this weekend.


The advantage of the DX (able to cool the lighting chamber) turns out to be a disadvantage (no vents to cool the water surface). I need to explore that next :)

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