Jump to content
Coral Vue Hydros

70W MH in stock Nano Cube!!


artarmon42

Recommended Posts

I hit 81.5 yesterday, it was about mid/upper 70s ambient in the room. This is with stock lighting + 13w fuge bulb. Plus, to offset the cost if I do mine, I'll sell my 2x24 + built in moonlights, so someone can upgrade their PCs.

Link to comment
  • Replies 335
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Chronicles, you don't need a MH for a RBTA, you may even burn the little guy.

 

Only reason I'm considering the MH is I have a problem with NOT having SPS In my tanks now a days...

 

I wish 25w of 50/50PC light was enough to do most softies, but I feel it really limits their growth, even in rics. So I need to at least do SOMETHING with my lighting situation..

Link to comment

I'm using the stock lighting in my 24DX nano cube (72W) and I feel it would be enough for a BTA - they're pretty forgiving when it comes to lighting intensity - I feel comfortable enough to have a croeca clam in my tank also - I have a few montiporas - I personally feel that the stock lighting (or maybe an extra PC retrofit) is enough for everything but acroporas and the similar high light demanding corals - just my opinion though.

 

Not saying I'm not going to try a few acropora frags from local reefers - just for fun - but for the best colors from Acroporas you'll want Halide lights - water quality will be the most important in such a small tank (very low nutrient is hard to do w/ small feedings) but halide lights will definatly help the colors come out more.

 

-Nick

Link to comment

Have you found that a "small" BTA in the LFS really expands in the Nano Cube? That's what I found when I had my 12 OG.

 

From what I've read since then, a BTA will expand itself to get more light (a sign that the lighting is insufficient).

 

I'm not an anemone expert, it's just what I read...

Link to comment

I'm looking for a MH retro now, the one on ebay only comes with a 10k bulb. Seems stupid to buy that for $150 then pay another $50+ for a bulb, are there any kits that come with a 20k? Where did you get your 20k bulb?

 

Think a 150w would be too much in there? If not mogul or DE?

Link to comment

I got my 20k from marinedepot.com.

 

But you should email the guy on eBay... I noticed (when I was looking around for a higher k bulb) that he also sells the Aqualine 14k and Ushio 10k bulbs separately. Maybe he'll swap the bulbs in the kit.

 

In hindsight, with the new gutted hood, I should have gotten 14k + T5 actinic from Chris. That would have given me a nice dawn-to-dusk effect. I backed out of the T5 (and went with just the 20k) because I was afraid that I would not be able to cram it into the tight space without further affecting air circulation.

Link to comment

He sent a message back, said I could go to the 13k bulb for $5 more, they don't carry a 20. Would 13k be enough blue? Did your nexfan stuff come yet?

Link to comment

I'm actually really happy with my 20k.

I thinik with 13k, you'd want actinic supplementation (for the health of youur tank as well for "sharp" color definition).

 

Perhaps you can ask the guy how much he'd take OFF for the kit without a bulb.

 

Yup, the Nexfan order came in. I swapped out the scroll fan and the low profile one I had, with the 2 new higher CFM low profiles. The tank is much queiter now, and the hood is pretty cool (judging by the temp of the exhaust air). I am not sure if it is related (probably not, because it's a cool morning so far) but my water temp hasn't gone up at all (flap still prop'd up). By now, the temp would have gone up the first 2 degrees... and it's still at 78. As I said, I think it's the ambient temp (it's 71) because I'm not sure the fans in the hood could logically impact the heating up of the water...

 

I'll update the other thread re: the NanoIceProbe.

Link to comment

do they come with the reflector and glass? My only reason for thinking about buying that kid on ebay is the glass placement. I didn't want to have to worry about UV. Post or PM the prices, I'm very intrested.

Link to comment
Originally posted by Chronicles

do they come with the reflector and glass? My only reason for thinking about buying that kid on ebay is the glass placement. I didn't want to have to worry about UV. Post or PM the prices, I'm very intrested.

 

+1

 

I've got the same question also. I was planning on purchasing this item from somewhere else but I would like to support a board sponser if possible. I am looking to do the samething. Do you have the similar hardware?

Link to comment

I was out of town this weekend (Friday morning to Sunday afternoon).

 

In that time, the water temp low was 78.3 (heater) and high was 82.1. Compared to an ambient low of 65.5 and high of 76.8 (house heater/air-con was off). I don't have correlating times (the thermometer just has min and max), but I expect the lows was overnight and the max was at the end of the 8-hour photo period.

 

What does that prove?

Absolutely nothing... Just stating the facts! :)

Link to comment

Hey artarmon42,

 

What kind of temps are you getting with the flip lid down? The only think that is keeping me from diving in is the temp. I don't want to be messing with a chiller if I don't have to. I can do the mod to MH like you did (great job) and do the fans but I'm concerned about the temp. I can't keep the lip up, I've got two small children that would love to see what floats in my tank if you know what I mean.:o

 

Cheers.

Link to comment

Finally got around to creating those rear vents, so that I can restore the stream-lined look (i.e. close the front flap).

 

Cutting two slits in the rear of the hood, this is what it looks like from the inside...

MH41-Interior.JPG

 

As it the hood closes, you can see that there is enough space to provide ventilation... The clearance is perhaps less than half an inch.

MH42-Closing.JPG

 

Perhaps I can force more airflow?

MH40-RearVents.JPG

Here is that drive-bay fan next to the hood/vent. I'm open to suggestions of how to mount it :unsure:

Link to comment

Sterling18:

 

I found that with the flap up, the temp would rise to 80-81 (from 78 ) in the first 2 hours and then pretty much stabilize. It might hit 82 by the end of the 8 hour photo period.

 

With the flap down, it hit 82 in the 3.5 hour mark (I aborted the test when the temp rise didn't seem like it was slowing down).

 

Tomorrow, I'm going to have the flap down (just relying on the rear vents I just made) and then report on the temp.

 

 

To be completely open on this topic, be aware that in all my tests, my ambient has been LOWER than the water temp. I'm not sure how summer will pan out (although I have young children, so ambient would only get to 80 before the house A/C would kick in).

Link to comment

As always great pics.

 

Do you have updated pics on your little friends inside of your tank? I'm wondering how your clam's doing?

Link to comment

Photo period done for the day, so I'll try to snap some shots tomorrow.

 

My clam is doing great. I don't have before-and-after shots (to confirm for myself) but I think he's actually getting better coloring (less brown, more blue).

 

But my pride-and-joy are my (new) SPS! Polyp's extended and coloring up nicely.

Link to comment
Originally posted by artarmon42

Photo period done for the day, so I'll try to snap some shots tomorrow.  

 

My clam is doing great. I don't have before-and-after shots (to confirm for myself) but I think he's actually getting better coloring (less brown, more blue).

 

But my pride-and-joy are my (new) SPS! Polyp's extended and coloring up nicely.

 

bow.gif

Link to comment

SeanCallan:

I forgot to thank you for putting me onto the Chauvet Chase Timer. I bought one of those, and it arrived on Thursday. I've now got my return pump running all the time, but the "intake" pump on a 2 minute on-off cycle.

Besides the different look (as things wave in a different direction), I think my GSP is extended more than I've ever seen before! I'd love to get another pump in there and really mix up the flow. Will have to play around after work sometime this week.

Link to comment

Quick update...

I'm not sure how effective the rear vents are.

 

On one hand, there was once again alot of condensation against my splashguard this morning. Condensation would seem to me that there isn't enough flow OUT of the tank, otherwise we'd get proper evaporation.

 

On the other hand, the temps have stabilized after the first 2 hours, as normal.

 

Anyone who knows thermodynamics want to tell me what's going on? ;)

Link to comment

I'll offer a guess - where is the air coming in --> the top vents? that way, the plastic guard is cooled, while the air beneith it is warmer - I think that's why you're getting condensation instead of evaporation - is there any way to get some air that will enter underneith the spashguard, possibly using a scroll fan to push air at the water's surface - you'll be losing a lot more to evaporation, but it should cool your water significantly (about 3-5 degrees I would guess) - new concerns would then be top-off and salt creep.....

 

 

just a suggestion - HTH

Link to comment

Good idea about the scroll fan.

 

Perhaps I can attach one of these over one or both of the rear vents.

nexfan03_1841_13669122

That would blow air IN.

Link to comment

one should be sufficient - anyway, you'll need somewhere for the air to go, so you'll want to leave one vent open for exhaust

 

for comparison, I used one 4" fan to cool my 30G cube (it was in the top back corner of a 17" high canopy, angled to hit the water's surface blowing in) with this I was able to cool the water by about 4°F, while having a 250W DE pendant 6" off of the surface of the water during the middle of summer, and still keep the temps under 82°F - I did evaporate almost a gallon of water a day though- so be prepared for maybe 1/4-1/2 gallon/day evaporation, depending on how humid your room is...

 

as additional help, I tried using another 4" fan, pulling air out of the top of the canopy (hot air rises right :D - wrong ) I left it unplugged one day and discovered that this fan had no effect at all, just in case you ever consider using a fan to blow out - they just get corroded and lock up - it's always better to blow cool air in - but do be careful of salt creep, the JBJ hoods are pretty tight, so creep could be a serious issue with a lot of air being blown across the water's surface.

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recommended Discussions


×
×
  • Create New...