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artarmon42

70W MH in stock Nano Cube!!

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Ed-N

Thats why I think if you silicone the edges where glass meets plastic, you'll have a water tight seal.

 

The other idea I had was to buy a piece of Lexan from Home Depot and put it inbetween the bulb and the splashguard. I'm not totally sure, but I think it won't warp as easily as the splashguard.

 

Ed

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Chronicles

mdt178, it would've been better if you had rigged a heatpipe or had a heatsink touching the MH setup. Having 2 heatsinks in limbo just touching plastic doesn't do anything but provide mounting for the fans (maybe that's all you wanted it for?). But hooking it to a heatsink is a great idea, you'd get much more surface area to cool down.

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mdt178

Yep, I thought about running some thin coils or some sort of heat transfering material from the edges of the glass to the heatsinks. But the temperature are holding up well, so I'm not going there.

Another idea was to cut out a larger sheet of highly conductive material and put it between the lights and the hood. In effect, a makeshift heatsink.

I agree that the small heatsinks, as they are right now, have minimal effect.

I don't mean to hijack this thread, just that we're having similar problems.

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SeanCallan

Do you think this mod is possible with the older style JBJ 12g nanos?

 

I have one laying around and would love to do some work to it, this mod seems perfect, but I hate to waste the money if it won't fit.

 

I've noticed, these new cubes, their hoods can clip on and off? That seems rather useful, I hate how the older ones seem molded on, I can't for the love of figure out how to get mine off without cutting some plastic.

 

Anyways,

Thanks!

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artarmon42

Had a 5 hour photo period today, and I'm happy to say that there was no further warping (that I noticed). The fans are keep the system pretty stable at 79.5 (I finally got a new probe thermometer :woot: ).

 

I am still noticing higher condensation on my splashguard (at least 5-7 drops-worth on the front flap alone), which I can only attribute to the coolness of the hood.

 

It looks like there is a neglible change in overall evaporation (requiring top-off). It's hard to estimate (because my photo periods have been short), but I think it'll be very close to the half-cup per week that I did before the MH was installed.

 

My frogspawn head still looks like it's dying, but everything else is acting normal now. I got a bunch of SPS in, so I'll take some pictures over the weekend (gives them time to open up B) ).

 

Spoke to Chris about a new splashguard/hood. Hopefully he'll be able to come through (he needed to call JBJ). Else, I'll go pick up another 12DX from the LFS (most expensive option, but I want to close off this experiment and start working on the IceProbe that arrived today).

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artarmon42

Sean,

 

I think it might work with scroll fans...

 

You'd need a scroll fan exhausting out to each of the side vents.

 

It's been awhile since I had my "Original" but here's a picture from an old thread of mine...

hood.jpg

If I recall there are holes in the back area of the splashguard. Scroll fans could be positioned to suck air in from the hood's back vents and blow straight into the splashguard holes.

 

Go buy one scroll fan, and then use it as a template to see if everything would line up.

 

 

 

A few people have asked me where to get those scroll fans.

I buy them from my local Fry's.

But you can also order online: http://shop2.outpost.com/product/3835917.

You might be able to get it cheaper... just letting people know one source of these fans.

(Chris should stock them... they're pretty cool :rolleyes: )

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artarmon42

Got the Aqualine 20k bulb in today, and couldn't wait until the weekend to install :P

 

So here are the comparison shots...

 

Ushio 10k

MH26-FullTank.JPG

 

Aqualine 20k

MH29-20k.JPG

 

Never realized how yellow it was until the Aqualine fired up.

I love the nice crisp blue-white light, but to be fair the tank looks more "man made, impossibly colorful" as opposed to "how a reef looks in real life".

 

 

While I had the splashguard off (to install the new bulb) I took the opportunity to insert a (good) temperature probe into the main light chamber, and will try to measure the heat in there during tomorrow's photo period.

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afiser

hehe now you dont need atinics hehe.....i really like the 20k good work

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DarkXerox

Awesome mod!! OH what are you using as your BB? Thats not starboard is it?

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artarmon42

I believe Starboard is a trademark from one shop for it's marine grade polymer that is: high friction, environmentally stable (salt water), and UV reistant. In reality many places sell such a polymer. I got mine from http://www.cuttingboardcompany.com/. Custom cut to fit the Nano Cube, it was ~$12 shipped. B

 

est value investment I've made for the tank so far. Once you go BB and see the crap, there's no going back to sand :)

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artarmon42

Looks like I was lucky and managed to convert to MH in time! Either that, or I've been bad and had not giving enough light to my clam previously with PCs :-*

 

After 6 days of MH, it looks like the clam is starting to grow! Notice the white ridges that are adding to its shell...

MH29-Clam1.JPG

MH30-Clam2.JPG

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artarmon42

I'm 3 hours into my 6 hour photo period today.

 

With my new (improved) temperature probes:

1) Ambient temperature has gone from 68 to 72 (the photo period started at 5am :)

2) Water temperature has gone from 79 to 82 (my heater is set to 79, and it looks like it has climbed steadily since the MH came on... perhaps 0.2 every 10-15 minutes for the past hour).

3) Light-chamber temperature has gone from room temperature to 88 (looks like once the MH comes on, it climbs rapidly and then steadies)

 

I have min/max capability on my water temperature, so I'll report back tonight about the range over the full day.

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SeanCallan

I guess maybe I should look into more PCs oor t5s, first I want to get a new plastic cover, mine's been scraped up.

 

 

I'm also going to try that surface skimmer idea, seems pretty neat!

 

Thanks!

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artarmon42

Not wanting to risk hurtying my livestock, I turned off the MH before I went to work this morning (with the water temperature just clicking over to 84).

 

Tonight I'm going to turn down my heater (from 79) to 77. Hopefully that'll lower the temperature shift when the MH comes on. I'm going to run 2 x 3.5 hour photo period tomorrow, to break up the heat build up.

 

As a teaser, I've managed to mod the Iceprobe to fit into the back area (without drilling). I'll test/caibrate it and post that journal over the weekend.

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ccjung

Hey artarmon,

 

I will call JBJ again tomorrow to find out about the splashguards...

 

Chris

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SeanCallan

Definitely post that iceprobe! I want to see how you managed that. This would be a great solution for MHs in a nano.

 

As for the other heat, I'm trying to determine how to go about doing this, fan wise.

 

What are the size of the fans on the back of the nano, 60mm right? How do you have yours hooked up to power? Can you link to any available parts?

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Chronicles

What you need is to mount on of these in there:

 

Black Version

nexfan03_1837_5820941

 

Clear Version

nexfan03_1837_5788176

 

 

 

Outline Dimension : 82x80x67.2mm

Fan Dimension : 80x80x25 mm

Rated Voltage : 12 V

Current : 0.07A ~ 0.13A

Fan Speed : 1100 ~ 3000 rpm

Air Flow : 53.2 ~ 100 CFM

Noise: Lo< 21 , HI<23dBA

Sale price: $9.99

 

Forget 10-20cfm from a loud 60mm fan, use this and get 100cfm at less then 23db! It's made it fit in a 5 1/4 bay, if you could some how rig it with some ducting (I don't have my cube yet), then all you'd need is this one fan, with maybe some vents drilled in the very front part of the splash guard to pull the heat trapped near the water.

 

Is there room in the back to cut a hole and just slide it in, so it flush mounts to the back like it would in a 5.25 drive? or maybe turn it upside down, chop and cut off the parts of the casing that aren't needed and put it where a stock fan goes?

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artarmon42

Chronicles... :blink: That's some crazy air movement!

Are you going to get that? I'd be interested in seeing how it works out.

 

I'd do it, but I'm pretty close to the Iceprobe solution. I have only checked it for fit so far, and haven't tested it... so who knows if it'll actually work :unsure:

 

But here's a picture of what I've done so far...

MH31-IceProbe.JPG

So far the work has been pretty easy (if you can install PC fans into the Nano Cube, you've got all the skills needed).

 

It fits in the back compartment, but I will need to test to make sure the heatsink/fan can dissipate enough heat. The problem (that I forsee) isn't going to be cooling, but where the hot air goes, because the Nano Cube is reasonable well sealed without any vents between the splashguard and the water surface (that's why there's so little normal evaporation).

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artarmon42

And on the off-chance this cheap low-tech solution doesn't work, I'm going to liquid cool this sucker :pirate:

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Chronicles

Pretty sure the chillers are using peltiers, which really you could build one for a fraction of the cost to buy one, but anyway that GPU heatsink aka "iceberq 4" isn't gonna cut it with a peltier. I'd find out what the wattage on it is before you plug it in.

 

Specifications

Voltage: DC 12V

Fan Dimension: 40 x 40 x 10mm

Power: 1.45W

Fan Speed: 6000 RPM

Airflow: 5.9 CFM

Fan Bearing: Ball Bearing

Weight: 77 gm

Cooler Dimension: 75 x 62 x 15mm

Heat Sink Material: Copper

 

5.9cfm is not gonna cool any peltier, that GPU sink is ment for GF2,3,4 series. If the space is a concern you'll have to make a heat pipe design to a bigger sink/fan combo.

 

Check out this for more info if you don't know what they are:

http://www.overclockers.com/tips45/

 

"heatsink temperature, is one of the most critical element controlling the cooling performance of a peltier system."

 

 

Oh and as for the price, to cool a nano cube, you could buy a peltier for $13.95 @ directron, hook it to a metal probe wrapped in plastic and tada, a $15+heatsink+power chiller!

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jmt

This is like trying to put a supercharger on a power wheels. :D Although, I am curious to see how it works out. I've done a fair amount of work with DE setups, so I'll try and help if I can.

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Ed-N

Chronicles,

 

Those peltiers are cool! No pun intended. Since they are flat, do you think you could stick it right on the outside glass or is that asking for trouble? I think the thermal transfer would be less, but it would be very easy and clean.

 

Ed

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Chronicles

Asking for trouble since it'd be rapidly turning on or off touching the glass. That's the reason the "probe" is covered by plastic, well that and saltwater+metal=bad.

 

The temperature difference between the hot and the cold side is of about 70 degrees celcius, with some high performance Peltiers reaching up to 120 degrees celcius.

 

Another article for people who are intrested in them:

 

http://www.digit-life.com/articles/peltiercoolers/

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SeanCallan

I only have one concern, the copper inside the tank is going to rust so quickly do the salt creep.

 

You may have a fire hazard. We'll see though!

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