Just got a Nano Cube

[nofriendsbz3]

Thanks alot BLACKJACK. How will the Damsels help better with the cycling of the tank?

 

How could i balance the water toxicity of the tank?

 

I have the 12gallon NANOCUBE do you know of a way to possibly upgrade it at all without hacking up the canopy?

 

Once againg thank you everyone especially BLACKJACK for all of your help.

 

Im learning alot.

[BLACKJACK]

Damels are just a hardier fish and can tolerate fluctuation of salwater parameters better than most tropical fish. just do water changes as specified earlier. And you can look at the lighting posts in this forum for your last quest.

[nofriendsbz3]

Thank you BLACKJACK

[Heather_H]

BlackJack...

 

Not to hijack this thread..but I see your local! any suggestions for good LFS's around? I know about "the fish store".. wasnt sure if there were any others ! If you ever have any frags you would like to sell.. please let me know since you local . Thanks

 

Originally posted by BLACKJACK

Damels are just a hardier fish and can tolerate fluctuation of salwater parameters better than most tropical fish. just do water changes as specified earlier. And you can look at the lighting posts in this forum for your last quest.

[BLACKJACK]

Heather H

 

 

How about a killer store in Marietta. I went there last week and it had an awesome supply of corals and fish. "Marine Fish" ph is 7-321-8404

[Heather_H]

Thanks!!! That shouldnt be to bad of a drive from Dawsonville!!!!

 

 

Originally posted by BLACKJACK

Heather H

 

 

How about a killer store in Marietta. I went there last week and it had an awesome supply of corals and fish.  "Marine Fish" ph is 7-321-8404

[kkdo]

I would generally agree with everything that's been said so far, except for the sponge.

 

Taking a sponge from an established system and using that to "kickstart" your new system is STANDARD practice and WILL help your tank cycle. I do it ALL the time for my quarantine tanks when I purchase new fish and know of many others that do as well.

 

Same idea as using some live sand/live rock from an established system - you're just starting off with more denitrifying bacteria.

 

If the 2 clowns are in otherwise good health, they MIGHT be ok as long as you DON'T OVERFEED, DON'T ADD ANYTHING ELSE for a couple weeks, and do some regular water changes (especially if your test results are above acceptable ranges).

 

But like everyone else said, do a lot more reading before buying. It'll make this hobby much less frustrating.

[nofriendsbz3]

how often should i feed them?

 

Should i do a water change soon, i just bought it on Monday?

 

What is a good test kit to get?

 

Thank you for your help

[scottj2]

hi nofriendsbz3,

I just bought a 12 gal nano cube this week as well. I've been reading and researching for a few weeks now before I decided to take the plunge. From what I've read everywhere, I would definitely take the fish back and see if you can get credit for 2 new fish in the future, or see if the store will hold them for you. As for cycling, I'm using the so called "Cocktail shrimp" method. This will help establish the necessary bacteria in your aquarium to break down ammonia. These are the steps I've taken:

 

1. Fill the tank with 1-2 inches of argonite sand. (I'll be adding live sand and live rock in the future)

2. Fill the tank with saltwater.

3. Let the tank run for a day or so until an accurate specific gravity (salinity) is established. (I'm only used a power head to mix the salt, no filtration yet)

4. After the specific gravity (salinity) has balanced and proper temp is met, I added one raw cocktail shrimp (available at most grocery stores)

5. Let the tank run until the ammonia levels spike.

- the bacteria will now eat away at the ammonia, hence creating nitrite. This will then be converted by other bacteria to produce nitrates. Nitrates can be removed by doing 10-20% water changes.

6. After the ammonia and nitrites leves reach zero, and nitrates are relatively low, your tank has "cycled" for the most part. You can now add live sand and live rock if you desire.

7. Keep testing the water, and if after a week or so the levels are all near perfect, you can start stocking your tank. (most recommend stocking a "clean-up crew" for the next couple of weeks to prepare your tank for fish. Snails, certain crabs, snails and starfish are excellent candidates for cleaning.

 

You dont necessarily have to use the cocktail shrimp method to cylce your tank; I just chose this method because I've read good things about it. All I can tell you is to research, research and .........RESEARCH. The more you learn, the better off your tank will be in the long run. Hope this helps. If anyone has any other suggestions or corrections to my post, please feel free to comment. I'm also a newbie and any info is greatly appreciated.

 

Take it easy,

Jeremy

[Primeval]

the cylce is going to kill your fish, even if you water is okay now.

 

trust me, you are going to want to take the fish back for store credit and get them again AFTER your tank cycles

[nofriendsbz3]

Even if i have the Cultured Sponge and i have the live rock and the live sand, you guys think i should take back the fish still. My levels are good. My fish look fine, they are eating fine.

 

BUT if you guys think that i should deffinately give them back thenk i whill.

 

thank you

 

nick

[Shooter]

I just think it would simplify your whole process here, IMHO. I know that my FW tank went through some pretty wide variations in water parameters, but I didn't really have to be concerned about it because I didn't have any fish in there until everything calmed down and leveled out.

[hagfish]

I would try to take the fish back to the LFS. The cycle is only just beginning which can mean that there is little toxicity right now, but it will increase rapidly very soon.

 

As for test kits, most people say salifert makes the best ones. But if you can't find that locally (I can't) I'd at least get an ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and PH test kit of whatever you can find. "Aquarium Pharmaceuticals" test kits seem to be most common around here and that's what I use. Also, if you don't have something to test salinity or specific gravity (there's a difference) you need to get a refractometer or at least a glass swing arm hydrometer.

 

Do not do any water changes yet as that will prolong the cycle! Most cycles take at least 3 weeks and often more to complete.

 

Just feed once a day and very little for now (if you keep the fish). Excess uneaten food (and excess poo) will raise ammonia and put your fish at further risk.

 

If you haven't done so already, you should purchase one or two books about keeping a saltwater aquarium.

 

If you do take the fish back, I wouldn't get damsels unless you really want to keep them. I would use the dead shrimp method. You can also just feed the empty tank as if there were fish in there to kick off the cycle. Many damsels are pretty, but they are often aggressive and may attack weaker fish. And they are very fast and hard to catch if you decide to take back to LFS.

[tontor33]

Nick,

If you are going to buy live rock and live sand make sure that you get it cured or from an established system. If you don't it will only add to your ammonia and nitrite levels as opposed to assisting in cycling your tank faster. As has been stated before by the others in this thread I agree with taking the fish back to be "boarded" at the LFS. If your LFS won't hold the fish for you for a couple weeks then find a new one, a really good LFS cares about the fish and it's customers, not just making money. Use the time while you are waiting for your tank to cycle to expand your knowledge and check out all the new little critters on your live rock. Most of the really awesome nanos on this site took a year or more to get where they are. I know that it's really tough, but patience really pays off huge compared to that sinking feeling of seeing one of your favorite fish floating.

[nofriendsbz3]

My live sand came from an established system as well as my live rock. I have alot of patience, but i have been told SO many different things on how to do stuff with my tank that its kind of hard to stay in one direction. I have done tons and tons for reading and research. The only reason i got the fish was to help cycle the tank. Im already starting to see growth on my live rock (little feather looking things).

 

You guys on this forum have been a great help and i appreciate all of your guys help. I hope to have a successfull tank like the rest of you guys do in the picture gallery.

 

That was my goal in getting into the hobby in the first place.

 

thank you

 

nick

[hagfish]

Your live rock and live sand may already have a lot of beneficial bacteria on them. Hopefully that's the case because that will help a lot.

 

You say you only bought the fish to help cycle the tank. It's true that any fish will cause ammonia to increase and thereby helping to start the cycle. Many people do this and it will work (as far as starting the cycle goes). But clowns, while pretty sturdy in general, are not typically considered sturdy enough to be a "cycle" fish. That is typically left to damsels and chromis.

 

Also, keep in mind that if even just one of those fish dies, that may cause an ammonia spike and put the other at even further risk.

 

I suggest that you at least don't buy any more live stock for 3-4 weeks. In the mean time, just get those test kits and keep an eye on the cycle. I would still suggest taking the fish back though. Even taking one back would help, but both would be better.

[nofriendsbz3]

Would you guys recomend a clenup crew at all?

 

What are the Ideal levels to have the tank at?

 

What is a good "All in One Kit" that i could test everything with?

 

Thank you guys for all of your help

[hagfish]

It's best to wait on the cleanup crew until after the cycle completes.

 

ammonia has to be 0

nitrite has to be 0

nitrate the closer to 0 the better. I try to keep under 10. But fish can handle quite a bit more than that. Inverts and coral may not like high nitrate though.

ph 8.1-8.4 - but try to keep it steady

Ammonia, nitrite, and ph are the most important ones so keep a close eye on them especially in the beginning.

 

Inverts will be bothered by salinity changes. If you are using a hydrometer you will want a specific gravity of 1.24 (assuming 80 degree water) to get about 35 ppm salinity. Or if you get a refractometer (they are much better) it will tell you the salinity itself.

 

I bought my kit in individual pieces so I'll let someone else recommend an all in one kit.

[nofriendsbz3]

thank you for your help

[corey0613]

i hate to be a jerk, but you really should ask all these questions BEFORE you buy a tank and put fish in it.

 

you are going to have a looooooong road ahead.

[B16A2NR]

THIS THREAD IS SO REPETATIVE AND ANOYING! Its basicly taking up everyones time to write how the nitrogen cycle works, and how to do water changes when its been published thousands of times already! I give no sympathy to noob's who don't do some prior research.

When I started this hobby I looked at this glass tank as a complete ecosystem that depended on ME for survival. I did not want to hold responsibility for purchasing an animal to kill because I didn't know how to take proper care of it. These are wild animals that depend on us when you purchase them.

Reeferbarra20 you are wrong. Not every fish store or everone working at a fish store is looking to make money. I know because I am living proof of that. I don't care how much money the store makes or doesn't I will not sell anything to anyone if I don't think it is safe to do so.

I want EVERYONE to go out and purchase a reef book. Read it cover to cover. You will be amazed how much you thought you knew but didn't, and your appreciation for this hobby will increase because of it. Let me suggest my personal favorites:

1. Sprung & Delbeeks "Reef Aquarium Vol 1 & 2"

2. Julian Sprung "Reef Notes" the series

3. Eric Borneman "Corals"

4. John Tullok "Natural Reef Aquarium"

5. Martin Moe's "Marine Aquarium Handbook"

 

KNOWLEDGE IS POWER!

[nofriendsbz3]

What fish store do you run?

 

Ill be sure not to go to that one!!

 

Just from the sounds of your reply you sound like a jack ass and your store probably sucks.

 

You probably dont help your NOOBS at and just expect them to learn all by themselves without asking questions.

 

Everyone here didnt seem to have a problem with my questions except for you... Everyone was actually quite helpful and i learned alot.

 

your reply was a complete waste of time!!

[GregSVT]

Here's info on how to get started

 

http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/melev...ef/overview.htm

 

Here's the rest of the guy's site...he has helped me so much

 

http://www.melevsreef.com/

 

 

I just started a 12g JBJ nano cube as well. 10 pounds of Live Sand and 10 pounds of Live Rock. I put the rock in last week so I have a few weeks before I even think about putting a cleaner crew in. Hope some of this helps.

[nofriendsbz3]

thanks GregSVT.

 

Those are the kind of replies i look forward to getting from this site.

 

I have the same exact setup as you do.

 

thanks again

 

nick

[B16A2NR]

nofriends: The point I am trying to get across is its a huge waste of time to start a thread that there are thousands of already. No I don't own a fish store I work at one. That is why I don't care if the store makes or doesn't make money. If someone comes in to buy "nemo" and a "nano reef" you cannot tell them all the information it takes to run a reef. This thread cannot tell you the information to run a reef. Books can and do.