Test Kits

[Toomanymatts]

What do you recommend for reliable, but as affordable as possible test kits?   

[DaJMasta]

Most of them are pretty reliable, but the measurement ranges on them differ and sometimes the steps/methodology/color comparisons are simpler or clearer between kits.  Worth mentioning that mixing and matching brands for price or performance reasons is absolutely acceptable, there is no benefit to sticking to one brand unless you need spares of the included parts or get a combo deal.

 

As a broad generalization, I've found Salifert to be both fairly inexpensive and fairly consistent while being relatively easy to use, and they have a kit to measure almost everything manufacturers usually offer.

[seabass]

I agree, Salifert is a good brand to go with for almost all of their test kits.  However, to determine low phosphate levels more precisely, I might recommend a Hanna ULR Checker instead.  Also, you might not need all of the kits (at least not initially).

 

As for testing frequency: If you can accurately predict what the test results will be prior to testing, then you can reduce the frequency of testing for that particular parameter.

 

Ammonia: testing is helpful when establishing the nitrogen cycle.  It might also be helpful when adding fish, after a death or while having an unexplained problem, setting up a quarantine or hospital tank, or during major disruptions such as a tank move.  Other than these "cycle" events, you probably won't be using this test.

 

Nitrite: testing has limited value in a reef tank.  And outside of establishing the nitrogen cycle, I'd say that it is of no interest (as nitrite isn't very toxic in a marine environment).  I would say that it's main use would be when dosing ammonia or ammonium chloride to build up the biofilter on dry rock.  Even then, this test is usually unnecessary if you are careful not to dose past 2ppm of total ammonia.

 

Nitrate: is an important nutrient, and you should be constantly aware of its value.

 

Phosphate: is the other nutrient that you need to know.  Arguably, it might be more important than nitrate.  This parameter is more challenging when trying to precisely determine low levels; so many reefer keepers find Hanna's digital checker to be helpful.  Although Salifert's phosphate test should be adequate in ensuring that your tank maintains an adequate phosphate level, and will save you some money.

 

pH: testing is also typically of limited use.  I usually only test for pH when doing something that can actively change its values (like dosing Kalkwasser, or when using carbon dioxide [like when using a calcium reactor]).  It can be helpful to determine high CO2 levels in a room (or too many fish); but since we usually don't try to change pH, I normally don't recommend this test.

 

Alkalinity: testing becomes important when keeping stony corals (LPS and SPS), as well as coralline (or other calcified)  algae.  Stability is key for this type of livestock.  It's typically not necessary to test for or dose alkalinity when just keeping soft corals.  However, I do recommend testing alkalinity when keeping stony corals.  Alkalinity changes faster than calcium and magnesium, so it is the best parameter to check for consumption.

 

Dosing be comes necessary when water changes no longer replenish enough alkalinity to keep the level stable.  When dosing, I recommend targeting the value of a new mixed batch of saltwater.  Also, once you start dosing alkalinity, you'll need to start testing for and dosing calcium and magnesium.

 

Calcium: is consumed along with alkalinity.  So once you start dosing alkalinity, you will need to test for and dose calcium as well.

 

Magnesium: is consumed along with alkalinity and calcium.  So (like calcium) after you start dosing alkalinity, you will need to start to test for and dose magnesium too.

 

Recommended Reef Tank Parameters
	Parameter:	Recommended Reef Tank Values:	Typical Ocean Reef Values:*
	Temperature	76 to 83° F (up to 84° F)	83 to 86° F
	Salinity	34 to 35 ppt sg = 1.025 to 1.026	34 to 36 ppt sg = 1.025 to 1.027
	Ammonia	Less than 0.1 ppm	Less than 0.1 ppm
	Nitrite	Less than 0.2 ppm	Below 0.0001 ppm
	Nitrate	2 to 10 ppm (up to 20 ppm)	Below 0.1 ppm
	Phosphate	0.02 to 0.10 ppm (up to 0.20 ppm)	0.005 ppm
	pH	7.8 to 8.3 (up to 8.4)	8.0 to 8.3
	Alkalinity	2.5 to 4 meq/L 7 to 11 dKH 125 to 200 ppm CaCO3 equivalents	2.5 meq/L 7 dKH 125 ppm CaCO3 equivalents
	Calcium	380 to 450 ppm	420 ppm
	Magnesium	1250 to 1350 ppm	1280 ppm
			* Per Randy Holmes-Farley

[ubpr]

Salifert for saltwater as what API is for freshwater.

Only ammonia of any other brand, not beige-brown. Unable to see the difference between shades.

There was a tip what do do when the color is too subtle: keep test vial next to another vial with just tank water, it works, especially for phosphate.

[DevilDuck]

On 2/3/2022 at 4:38 AM, seabass said:

I agree, Salifert is a good brand to go with for almost all of their test kits.  However, to determine low phosphate levels more precisely, I might recommend a Hanna ULR Checker instead.  Also, you might not need all of the kits (at least not initially).

 

As for testing frequency: If you can accurately predict what the test results will be prior to testing, then you can reduce the frequency of testing for that particular parameter.

 

Ammonia: testing is helpful when establishing the nitrogen cycle.  It might also be helpful when adding fish, after a death or while having an unexplained problem, setting up a quarantine or hospital tank, or during major disruptions such as a tank move.  Other than these "cycle" events, you probably won't be using this test.

 

Nitrite: testing has limited value in a reef tank.  And outside of establishing the nitrogen cycle, I'd say that it is of no interest (as nitrite isn't very toxic in a marine environment).  I would say that it's main use would be when dosing ammonia or ammonium chloride to build up the biofilter on dry rock.  Even then, this test is usually unnecessary if you are careful not to dose past 2ppm of total ammonia.

 

Nitrate: is an important nutrient, and you should be constantly aware of its value.

 

Phosphate: is the other nutrient that you need to know.  Arguably, it might be more important than nitrate.  This parameter is more challenging when trying to precisely determine low levels; so many reefer keepers find Hanna's digital checker to be helpful.  Although Salifert's phosphate test should be adequate in ensuring that your tank maintains an adequate phosphate level, and will save you some money.

 

pH: testing is also typically of limited use.  I usually only test for pH when doing something that can actively change its values (like dosing Kalkwasser, or when using carbon dioxide [like when using a calcium reactor]).  It can be helpful to determine high CO2 levels in a room (or too many fish); but since we usually don't try to change pH, I normally don't recommend this test.

 

Alkalinity: testing becomes important when keeping stony corals (LPS and SPS), as well as coralline (or other calcified)  algae.  Stability is key for this type of livestock.  It's typically not necessary to test for or dose alkalinity when just keeping soft corals.  However, I do recommend testing alkalinity when keeping stony corals.  Alkalinity changes faster than calcium and magnesium, so it is the best parameter to check for consumption.

 

Dosing be comes necessary when water changes no longer replenish enough alkalinity to keep the level stable.  When dosing, I recommend targeting the value of a new mixed batch of saltwater.  Also, once you start dosing alkalinity, you'll need to start testing for and dosing calcium and magnesium.

 

Calcium: is consumed along with alkalinity.  So once you start dosing alkalinity, you will need to test for and dose calcium as well.

 

Magnesium: is consumed along with alkalinity and calcium.  So (like calcium) after you start dosing alkalinity, you will need to start to test for and dose magnesium too.

 

Recommended Reef Tank Parameters
	Parameter:	Recommended Reef Tank Values:	Typical Ocean Reef Values:*
	Temperature	76 to 83° F (up to 84° F)	83 to 86° F
	Salinity	34 to 35 ppt sg = 1.025 to 1.026	34 to 36 ppt sg = 1.025 to 1.027
	Ammonia	Less than 0.1 ppm	Less than 0.1 ppm
	Nitrite	Less than 0.2 ppm	Below 0.0001 ppm
	Nitrate	2 to 10 ppm (up to 20 ppm)	Below 0.1 ppm
	Phosphate	0.02 to 0.10 ppm (up to 0.20 ppm)	0.005 ppm
	pH	7.8 to 8.3 (up to 8.4)	8.0 to 8.3
	Alkalinity	2.5 to 4 meq/L 7 to 11 dKH 125 to 200 ppm CaCO3 equivalents	2.5 meq/L 7 dKH 125 ppm CaCO3 equivalents
	Calcium	380 to 450 ppm	420 ppm
	Magnesium	1250 to 1350 ppm	1280 ppm
			* Per Randy Holmes-Farley

This post needs to be stickied! Thanks for summing up all this great information @seabass

 

[RaymondNoodles]

On 2/4/2022 at 10:09 AM, DevilDuck said:

This post needs to be stickied! Thanks for summing up all this great information @seabass

 

Seriously. Fantastic post/response. Thank you @seabass! I only have 1yr into this hobby but I've done a ton of reading and research, and I could not agree more with all of this information. Also, I plan on stealing it and passing it off as my own.