Joe's work IM 10g cube

[JojosReef]

Current FTS and state of the tank:

So decked out and just missing UV (working on exchange with IM), sand, rocks and water!  Rocks and water arriving at LAX on the 13th!

 

************Original Post***********

This will be my second tank, and hoping to draw from lessons learned with my first tank (Fluval Evo 13.5g). Plan below, hopefully getting wet shortly after Xmas.

 

Tank: Innovative Marine Fusion 10g AIO cube

Rock/Sand: Tampa Bay Saltwater (first lesson: combating the uglies is expensive and draining--I am hoping good maricultured live rock makes a big difference)

Water: LFS bought, made from RODI + Red Sea Coral Pro

Filtration: Intank Media basket chamber 1, floss, BRS GAC, Purigen, Phosguard as needed, seachem mmatrix (currently being seeded in 1st tank with Microbacter7)

Flow: Stock mightyjet 326gph, with VCA adapter/Y-adapter/2x 0.25in RFG with extra locline for positioning

Lighting: AI Prime 16 HD (second lesson: after going through 4 lights on Fluval, don't skimp on the lighting)

Skimmer: none

UV: will consider IM for chamber 2 if needed; Purchased chamber 1 Auqa Shield 9W drop-in gravity UV, but thinking of switching to chamber 2 AquaShield 10W with pump--don't like how the fit of the drop-in is not snug, so water likely to just run off the sides...

Testing: all Red Sea kits (lesson: Get a reliable kit from the get-go), considering a Hanna for phosphates

 

Stocking plan:

1. See what hitchhikers arrive with the TBS rock

2. 1x tailspot blenny (if lucky a colorful one)

3. 3+ sexy shrimp

4. 1x spotted Porcelain anemone crab

5. 1x Peppermint shrimp (Optional)

6. 1x Skunk or fire cleaner shrimp (Optional)

7. 1x Pompom crab 

8. 1x decorator crab (optional)

9. 5x astrea snails

10. 10x dwarf cerith snails

11. 5x trochus snails

12. 1x Nassarius vibex

13. 1x strawberry conch

14. 1x money cowrie (if they ever show up in reefcleaners)

15. Feather duster (optional)

16. 1x flat branch gracilaria

17. 1x mermaid's fans

18. 1x pencil cap

19. 1x shaving brush

20. 3+ rock flower anemones

21. 1x trachy (optional transfer)

22. Mushrooms (I will probably stick to mostly LPS and anemones in this tank)

23. Euphyllia

24. 1x crocea clam

25. 1x scoly (optional transfer)

26. 1x Duncan

27. 1x branching gsp

28. Monti cap

29. Birdsnest

30. 1x orange funghia plate

31. Mocha occelaris clownpig (optional)

32. Rainbow or toxic green or (gasp!) black widow BTA (optional)

 

Very invert heavy with an RFA focus. Will learn as I go regarding how much of this fits in a 10g...

 

Questions for the community:

1. Would love an urchin (blue tux, halloween or pink/purple pincushion), but I don't know how it will work out in a 10g with RFAs and TBS live rock (will it just mow down all of the good stuff brought in from the ggulf eat my macro?)

 

2. Hoping to get away with no powerhead. Will the 1/4" RFGs drip the flow from the MJ too much? Does the higher GPH MJ fit in the 10g?

 

3. For those that started with with live rock, especially rock right from the gulf, I assume you don't totally skip the uglies. Does GHA, bryopsis, cyano, dinos overtake your tank? Do you do anything specifically with LR to keep them at bay and keep your rock like it was when you got it?

 

4. For those of you with work tanks, what do you do for weekends and business trips?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ratvan]

1. I think the Urchin along with your planned CuC would struggle and you would need to supplement feed, also in my experience of Pincushion urchins, all the algae (especially the decorative) will be eaten in fast order.

 

2. No Powerhead can work but will depend on how you angle the return outlet, the aquascape etc etc. It is possible especially with an RFG nozzle

 

3. Pass, would love real rock thats been cycled in the sea 

 

4. I check that the ATO is working and the reservoir is filled, i do any water changes and additions on a Monday morning so i have time for an emergancy water change later in the week if needed. Other than that just regular equipment checks and testing. If longer than 4 days i also got someone in the office to feed the tank while i was off

 

[debbeach13]

14 hours ago, JojosReef said:

Tank: Innovative Marine Fusion 10g AIO cube

Mine is still in the box so I am following yours. 

[JojosReef]

15 hours ago, debbeach13 said:

Mine is still in the box so I am following yours. 

Mine comes out of the box on the 25th, so we'll be following along together.

[JojosReef]

18 hours ago, Ratvan said:

1. I think the Urchin along with your planned CuC would struggle and you would need to supplement feed, also in my experience of Pincushion urchins, all the algae (especially the decorative) will be eaten in fast order.

 

2. No Powerhead can work but will depend on how you angle the return outlet, the aquascape etc etc. It is possible especially with an RFG nozzle

 

3. Pass, would love real rock thats been cycled in the sea 

 

4. I check that the ATO is working and the reservoir is filled, i do any water changes and additions on a Monday morning so i have time for an emergancy water change later in the week if needed. Other than that just regular equipment checks and testing. If longer than 4 days i also got someone in the office to feed the tank while i was off

 

Thanks! I will leave the urchin to a future project (although I don't mind supplemental feeding, feed my cuc in the Evo nori all the time just because). Re RFG, I will have a Y splitter and 12 pieces of locline to get one 1/4in RFG in one direction and another snaking down to go lower in another direction--or adjust as needed.

 

I am wondering if the next level up mightyjet fits in the IM 10g (>500 gph). With the 2x RFGs, the flow might drop substantially...

[AllAboutDatWrasse]

The mighty jet, with RFG is a terrific combination. You won’t need an additional power head with your stocking plans. 
 

For what it’s worth, VCA (the company the designed the RFG nozzles) recommends pointing them out straight, to maximize the randomness of the flow. Keep the flow mode on constant (pulse doesn’t work well with the RFGs). I’d skip the lock line and dual nozzles, as it will really impede the flow. 
 

The larger mighty jet pump will not fit in the chamber. The 326 barely fits. 

[JojosReef]

1 hour ago, AllAboutDatWrasse said:

The mighty jet, with RFG is a terrific combination. You won’t need an additional power head with your stocking plans. 
 

For what it’s worth, VCA (the company the designed the RFG nozzles) recommends pointing them out straight, to maximize the randomness of the flow. Keep the flow mode on constant (pulse doesn’t work well with the RFGs). I’d skip the lock line and dual nozzles, as it will really impede the flow. 
 

The larger mighty jet pump will not fit in the chamber. The 326 barely fits. 

Thanks! Great info. Wish I had asked a couple of weeks ago bc I already received the Y splitter, locline and dual 1/4 in RFGs. Can always get a 1/2 in RFG and pick the one I like best.

 

I'm thinking of tying a small ribbon to a chopstick and seeing what the flow looks like throughout the tank. Ever tried this? Flow and light are the hardest to get right imo.

[JojosReef]

Office tank in place! Now waiting on a good time to get the rock/sand and get it wet!

 

 

[JojosReef]

Good Xmas haul. Equipment/consumables check:

 

Tank - check

Intank Media basket chamber 1 - check

Floss - check

BRS GAC - check

Purigen - check

Phosguard - check

Seachem Matrix - check and seeded

VCA adapters/RFGs/locline - check

AI Prime 16HD - check

12" AI Prime gooseneck mount - check

Mightyjet 326gph return pump - check

VCA tank mount for Mightyjet controller - check

Skimmer - N/A, but I'm debating a Tunze skimmer in Chamber 2 in place of UV.. Really unsure about this. Maybe a good idea with all the living live rock?

UV - Delayed; ordered the 9w drop-in for Chamber 1 instead of media basket, but it doesn't have a tight fit and I would prefer UV in chamber 2, so looking at replacing with the 10w

Test kits - all Red Sea arrived, but no Phosphate kit... Debating a Hanna

Acclimator - check

USB gooseneck Fan - check

Inkbird - check

Heater - will use my extra Eheim 75w for now or order a new 50w 78F preset

Smart power strip - check

ATO - not until I observe the fluctuation in the chamber levels with the setup

Bio-Spira/Microbacter7 - Unsure if needed with the TBS rock/sand, but maybe help with the die-off? I also don't want to outcompete the good stuff that comes with the rock

 

What am I forgetting...?

[JojosReef]

Most equipment now installed.  I briefly debated whether to get a Tunze protein skimmer for chamber 2, but decided to go with the media basket in chamber 1 and the larger AuqaShield 10W UV with pump in chamber 2 (instead of the drop-in UV in chamber 1, which doesn't fit very snug--currently working out how to return/exchange without incurring a bunch of fees from Innovative Marine).

 

Good news!  The Tampa Bay Saltwater rocks and sand are arriving on Jan 13th!  Getting wet next week!

 

 

 

[Tony Bologna]

Hiding all your electronics in that box was genius.

I'd never get anything done with a reef on my desk. I can't wait to see how this develops.

[JojosReef]

This box is just the right size.  Next size down has the aluminum oval handles that are too small to fit the 3-prong cords through.  I'm also a bit worried about a productivity slip, but perhaps I can coordinate my reef-gazing for the lull portion of my day 🙂

 

[Jersey10g]

great setup. interested how the uv does. 

Skip the urchin and the shrimp in my opinion.

i used live rock in same tank. You will still get a slighg algea outbreak. but i dose alittle bottle back and it disappears.

[JojosReef]

Wet test run, all systems check!

 

[mcarroll]

36 minutes ago, JojosReef said:

How high off the tank is the light?   Dunno if it's  just the weird perspective in the photos, but it looks pretty tall.  From memory (and assuming your tank is 12x12" dimensions), it should be no more than 6" off the tank.

 

On 12/14/2021 at 5:32 PM, JojosReef said:

3. For those that started with with live rock, especially rock right from the gulf, I assume you don't totally skip the uglies. Does GHA, bryopsis, cyano, dinos overtake your tank? Do you do anything specifically with LR to keep them at bay and keep your rock like it was when you got it?

Most folks (especially newbs) make one crucial mistake that leads to the uglies almost without fail.  

 

They add fish first.  

 

They complicate this (arguably) bad decision by not giving much if any consideration to the size of the ammonia spike they are going to be creating with those fish and the resultant feeding.  Ammonia spikes are the cause of LOTS of new tank problems.....but strangely almost nobody seems to put much thought or effort into avoidance.

 

Then they're stuck in the bad position of trying to keep their fish alive in a tank that wasn't ready for something as big as fish.....and later proceed to wonder why the fish have problems and why the tank goes Ugly.  

 

In reality it's no wonder at all....and both types of pest are almost 100% avoidable/preventable.

 

So in your case – all that is still avoidable.  Just don't add fish first.   Start your bio-load small – as small as possible.  Work your way slowly up to the larger critters.  Usually this means starting with 1-2 small snails....waiting a few weeks....then adding the next 1-2 critters from your sorted list....waiting again....repeat until you're done stocking (which might happen before you get to the end of your stock list).  Simple.

 

(I also think you have the freshwater version of the Seachem badges.....only the ammonia badge works in saltwater.)

It's worth pointing out that pH and Ammonia toxicity are directly linked....along with salinity and temperature.  I'm pretty sure this is why they package the two tests together.

 

Ammonia gets more and more toxic the higher that pH, salinity and temperature go.   At low salinity, low temp and low pH it can be practically non-toxic almost regardless of quantity.

[JojosReef]

11 minutes ago, mcarroll said:

How high off the tank is the light?   Dunno if it's  just the weird perspective in the photos, but it looks pretty tall.  From memory (and assuming your tank is 12x12" dimensions), it should be no more than 6" off the tank.

 

Most folks (especially newbs) make one crucial mistake that leads to the uglies almost without fail.  

 

They add fish first.  

 

They complicate this (arguably) bad decision by not giving much if any consideration to the size of the ammonia spike they are going to be creating with those fish and the resultant feeding.  Ammonia spikes are the cause of LOTS of new tank problems.....but strangely almost nobody seems to put much thought or effort into avoidance.

 

Then they're stuck in the bad position of trying to keep their fish alive in a tank that wasn't ready for something as big as fish.....and later proceed to wonder why the fish have problems and why the tank goes Ugly.  

 

In reality it's no wonder at all....and both types of pest are almost 100% avoidable/preventable.

 

So in your case – all that is still avoidable.  Just don't add fish first.   Start your bio-load small – as small as possible.  Work your way slowly up to the larger critters.  Usually this means starting with 1-2 small snails....waiting a few weeks....then adding the next 1-2 critters from your sorted list....waiting again....repeat until you're done stocking (which might happen before you get to the end of your stock list).  Simple.

 

(I also think you have the freshwater version of the Seachem badges.....only the ammonia badge works in saltwater.)

It's worth pointing out that pH and Ammonia toxicity are directly linked....along with salinity and temperature.  I'm pretty sure this is why they package the two tests together.

 

Ammonia gets more and more toxic the higher that pH, salinity and temperature go.   At low salinity, low temp and low pH it can be practically non-toxic almost regardless of quantity.

The rock should come with a fair bioload to start with (from Tampa Bay Saltwater maricultured gulf rocks), and they package it with 5 astrea snails and a peppermint shrimp, so that is what I will start with. Not sure when the tailspot will come, but I will have the system running for a while first.

 

Was waiting on someone to point out the freshwater pH badge 🙂 accidentally bought this combo and figured I'd put it in the tank anyways. Tank or trash, why not?
 

[mcarroll]

18 minutes ago, JojosReef said:

The rock should come with a fair bioload to start with (from Tampa Bay Saltwater maricultured gulf rocks), and they package it with 5 astrea snails and a peppermint shrimp, so that is what I will start with. Not sure when the tailspot will come, but I will have the system running for a while first.

You're in a whole different position starting with fresh live rock, which gives you a whole set of advantages over "home cultured" rock.

 

Most folks in that "bad position" I described are also starting with dead rock.  Pre-populating nitrifying bacteria is a minor improvement...doesn't make live rock, just reduces or eliminates the ammonia spike.  This is good, as it reduces stress to your fish....but it doesn't go very far past that.  You'll still get The Uglies as algae outcompete other critters in the initial competition for space and nutrients.

 

Here's a thing about live/dead rock:   Simple populations aren't stable.  Stability comes with diversity.  So even with the ammonia spike "gone" you're still left with an incomplete reef.  The Uglies are very likely.

 

18 minutes ago, JojosReef said:

Was waiting on someone to point out the freshwater pH badge 🙂 accidentally bought this combo and figured I'd put it in the tank anyways. Tank or trash, why not?
 

Could be saved in case you wanted to start a freshwater tank someday.  No great loss.  🤷‍♂️

[JojosReef]

2 hours ago, mcarroll said:

You're in a whole different position starting with fresh live rock, which gives you a whole set of advantages over "home cultured" rock.

 

Most folks in that "bad position" I described are also starting with dead rock.  Pre-populating nitrifying bacteria is a minor improvement...doesn't make live rock, just reduces or eliminates the ammonia spike.  This is good, as it reduces stress to your fish....but it doesn't go very far past that.  You'll still get The Uglies as algae outcompete other critters in the initial competition for space and nutrients.

 

Here's a thing about live/dead rock:   Simple populations aren't stable.  Stability comes with diversity.  So even with the ammonia spike "gone" you're still left with an incomplete reef.  The Uglies are very likely.

 

Could be saved in case you wanted to start a freshwater tank someday.  No great loss.  🤷‍♂️

You know about my Evo. I ordered a few extra lbs of fresh live rock and fresh live sand to transfer into my Evo as well, hopefully to spike in a bit of diversity--not sure how well it will compete with my thriving GHA, but I'll keep trying to cut down the GHA to give it a fighting chance.