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Seadragon's End Game 13.5g Reef: No Dosing, No Carbon, No Testing* ‚ÄčūüźČ‚Äč


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My End Game Nano Reef 

No Dosing, No Carbon, No Testing*




For two years, I experimented and played around with the Simple & Easy 10g Nano Reef since 9/10/2019.  Upon moving into our new house in 2022, I will start to purchase and build the necessary items needed for my End Game Reef tank, the last Reef tank I expect to own in my lifetime (unless it breaks of course, then I'll buy another).  The 10g tank will seed my new 13.5g tank and the current inhabitants will be transferred over which include: the original Nemo, the original Goby (both shown in the old photo below from when I first started the 10g), Ninja, Alpha Blenny, and Shrimpy.





I have 3 primary goals for this nano reef:

  1. No Dosing, No Activated Carbon, No Testing*
  2. To have the Xenia cover the majority of the bottom of the tank, GSP cover the side wall where the filtration is, Duncan, Hammer & Frogspawn placed on the top of the rockwork nearest to the light, and Fireworks Clove Polyps placed at the end of the tank farthest from the filtration.  See the Plan Diagram in the Pictures section below.
  3. To have thriving corals, happy fish, and no visible cyanobacteria or dinoflagellates.

*¬†I do test salinity which I keep at a stable 1.025¬†and I try to keep my water temperature around¬†75¬įF.



  • Weekly-Biweekly¬†4 gallon water changes using Red Sea Salt (Blue bucket), skim surface with paper towels if needed, and¬†filter cleaning.
  • Top off with Distilled Water.





  • Approximately 13.5 Gallons





⇨ Aquascape : Nature's Ocean 12-Inch Coral Base Rocks

⇨ Sand : 10 pounds of Nature's Ocean Natural White No.0 Bio-Activ Aragonite Live Sand + Coarse Aragonite Sand

⇨ Heater : Cobalt Aquatics Neo-Therm Heater, 50 Watt

⇨ Lighting : Current USA Orbit Marine IC PRO Dual LED with Bluetooth

⇨ Powerhead : Hydor Koralia Nano 240

⇨ Return Pump : 

⇨ Filtration : Filter Floss

⇨ UV Sterilizer System : U-VC Aquarium Green Clean Light

⇨ Tank Lid: Custom Mesh Screen Lid

⇨ Saltwater: Red Sea Salt (Blue bucket)

⇨ ATO: 




  • Pom Pom & Pulsing¬†Xenia
  • Pink Tip Frogspawn Coral
  • Duncan¬†Coral
  • Green Star Polyps (GSP)
  • Fireworks¬†Clove Polyps
  • Rainbow Splatter Hammer Coral (with live barnacle attached to it)




  • 1 Ocellaris Clownfish -¬†"Nemo"
  • 1 Black & White Ocellaris Clownfish -¬†"Ninja"
  • 1 Tail Spot Blenny¬†-¬†"Alpha Blenny"
  • 1 Yellow Watchman Goby - "Goby"
  • 1 Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp - "Shrimpy"
  • 3 Purple Porcelain Crabs
  • 5 Scarlet Red Hermit Crabs
  • 5 Cerith & Stocky Cerith Snails
  • 1 Banded Trochus Snail
  • 1 Zebra¬†Turbo¬†Snail
  • 1 Mexican Turbo¬†Snail
  • 2 Tiger Sand Conchs
  • a ton of Tisbe Copepods




  • Barnacle
  • Spirorbid Worms
  • Pineapple sponges
  • Bubble Algae





< ...to be continued! >

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I decided to create a new journal for my upcoming reef tank while I still have time.¬† I'll keep this updated as I purchase items I need and start to design a new rock structure that I will call the "Millennium Falcon". ūüôā


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get a digiten ato, you will thank me. with that you only need to touch your aquarium once a week, to feed fish and clean.  and once a month to do a 20 percent water change what you should do is make like a 2 peak structure (like melenium falcon idea) in left corner, add like a boulder then 1 other rock on the right mabye making a arch in the rocks and put an anenome for your clown there. 

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also mabye run a jaubert plenum and grow cryptic sponges. then you only need to water change to correct nitrate levels. i know someone on here has a heavily stocked sps tank without any form of water changes and he says that wc for trace elements isnt real. 

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