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Chromis


seabass

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Chromis

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e0/Chromis_atripectoralis_2.jpg

Chromis are related to both Damsels and Clownfish, which might result in some aggression with their cousins.  However, overall, Chromis tend to be on the more peaceful side.  In the wild, Chromis are often found in large shoals, often amongst branching corals.  And in a larger tank, a group of five or more Chromis can be kept together.  However, many reef keepers report aggressive behavior amongst groups kept in nano tanks (often ultimately resulting in a single Chromis).  Reef keepers sometimes use Chromis as a dither fish, to signal safety to less outgoing fish.

 

Chromis are omnivores.  Once acclimated, they will accept most commercially prepared saltwater fish foods.  However, it's best to feed them a varied diet.

 

Black Bar Chromis (Chromis retrofasciata)

Max Size: 2"

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons

Care level: Easy

Temperament: Peaceful

Reef Compatible: Yes

Origin: Indonesia

800px-Blackbar_chromis_(Chromis_retrofasciata).jpg

 

Black & White Chromis (Chromis margaritifer)

Max Size: 3"

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons

Care level: Easy

Temperament: Peaceful

Reef Compatible: Yes

Origin: Fiji

ShikokuSDfin.jpg

 

Vanderbilt's Chromis (Chromis vanderbilti)

Max Size: 3"

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons

Care level: Easy

Temperament: Peaceful

Reef Compatible: Yes

Origin: Fiji, Melanesia

 

Agile Chromis (Chromis agilis)

Max Size: 3"

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons

Care level: Easy

Temperament: Peaceful

Reef Compatible: Yes

Origin: Fiji

 

Green Reef Chromis (Chromis viridis)

Max Size: 4"

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons

Care level: Easy

Temperament: Peaceful

Reef Compatible: Yes

Origin: Indo-Pacific

Chromis_viridis_2011.jpg

 

Barrier Reef Chromis (Chromis nitida)

Max Size: 4"

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons

Care level: Easy

Temperament: Peaceful

Reef Compatible: Yes

Origin: Coral Sea

800px-Chromis_nitida.jpg

 

Blue Reef Chromis (Chromis cyaneus)

Max Size: 5"

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons

Care level: Easy

Temperament: Peaceful

Reef Compatible: Yes

Origin: Caribbean

1024px-Chromis_cyanea_Gratwicke.jpg

 

Webers Chromis (Chromis weberi)

Max Size: 6"

Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons

Care level: Easy

Temperament: Peaceful

Reef Compatible: Yes

Origin: Fiji

TakasagoSDya.jpg

 

Sunshine Chromis (Chromis insolata)

Max Size: 6.5"

Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons

Care level: Easy

Temperament: Peaceful

Reef Compatible: Yes

Origin: Tropical Western Pacific

 

Photos by image.png.764b7df6a2818ad7ca0b4ddd2d888742.png

 

Saltwater Fish Index

 

Edited by seabass
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  • 3 months later...

Hello, chromis is a predatory fish, once I had melanochromis, very attractive fish. If my memory serves me, then the chromis belong to the cichlid family. The most beautiful cichlids I have kept are pseudotrophies, they have a beautiful striped blue and dark blue color. Aquarium is generally a very interesting hobi, I was looking for something to do for a long time, until I looked at the meaning of my favorite number 7 at https://www.sunsigns.org/angel-number-222-meaning/, which showed me the way to my hobi.

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Yellow tail Chromis are beauty of a fish and swims around the entire water column.   

 

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I picked up a little one today for my 10 gallon but he'll be in a 20 very soon b/c I know 10 gallon is too small.  He's getting acquainted with my bully of a Clownfish that's been living alone for 9 months in tank and likes to stalk any new fish I add to the tank.  It's his tank.  ALL of it.  To date, Clownfish - 3 - ever other fish I've added - 0

 

So far, the Chromis looks fast enough to get away from random charges my clown is throwing at him.  We'll see how the week plays out. 

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Such beautiful fish, my daughter calls them mermaid fish, but probably important to talk about the risk of introducing uronema to the tank. I believe it’s a disease that can’t be eradicated, is very common in chromis nowadays, and can infect other fish in the tank as well. 
 

I love chromis, I would absolutely be thrilled to keep some, but what can be done to minimize the risk of uronema? What are other people’s experiences with this? I changed my stocking plan and got scissortail dartfish instead because someone warned me of the risk. 

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3 minutes ago, seabass said:


 

Perfect, thanks! So many people don’t quarantine, these fish are really a great reason to learn how to do it since, like Humblefish explains:

 

* There is no fallow period for Uronema. Once a tank has Uronema, it must be assumed that the disease can survive in there almost indefinitely.

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On 10/28/2021 at 11:08 AM, banasophia said:


 

Perfect, thanks! So many people don’t quarantine, these fish are really a great reason to learn how to do it since, like Humblefish explains:

 

* There is no fallow period for Uronema. Once a tank has Uronema, it must be assumed that the disease can survive in there almost indefinitely.

True that

 

I think my new fish has this.  He looked great when I brought him home, but the following day I saw a little white spot on top of his body near dorsal fin.  I figured he got in a spat with clownfish getting acquainted.

 

The last few days the fleshy spot has been slowly growing in size.  The fish is very healthy looking in activity and appetite.  Has a great personality.  But I took a zoomed video to get a better look at the flesh wound and it's got a pinkish hue to it. 

 

Really bummed about this, my tank has been showing healthy signs as of late with corraline red and green algae forming as well as some healthy looking activity on my GSP, Acans and Green candy cane extension since I started dosing Phyto daily. 

 

It was a cheap impulse buy and I don't really want the stress of having to buy chemicals and set up a QT for this fish.   

 

Maybe it was just the stress of taking him from herd in store and putting the fish in a smallish tank even though he's not very big.  Maybe my clownfish is meant to live alone in his tank

 

 

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4 minutes ago, Jakesaw said:

True that

 

I think my new fish has this.  He looked great when I brought him home, but the following day I saw a little white spot on top of his body near dorsal fin.  I figured he got in a spat with clownfish getting acquainted.

 

The last few days the fleshy spot has been slowly growing in size.  The fish is very healthy looking in activity and appetite.  Has a great personality.  But I took a zoomed video to get a better look at the flesh wound and it's got a pinkish hue to it. 

 

Really bummed about this, my tank has been showing healthy signs as of late with corraline red and green algae forming as well as some healthy looking activity on my GSP, Acans and Green candy cane extension since I started dosing Phyto daily. 

 

It was a cheap impulse buy and I don't really want the stress of having to buy chemicals and set up a QT for this fish.   

 

Maybe it was just the stress of taking him from herd in store and putting the fish in a smallish tank even though he's not very big.  Maybe my clownfish is meant to live alone in his tank

 

 

Sorry to hear this… just saw someone I follow on Instagram over the weekend with a chromis with uronema in his display too. (Or maybe it was you?) I think it’s extremely common in the chromis population now. I wonder if Biota or ORA are doing captive bred… these are incredibly beautiful fish, it’s a shame they seem to be carrying this disease. I need to do more research on it myself. 

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It wasn't me on Instagram.  

 

If it's so common, I wish my LFS wouldn't sell em.  I was told these were very hardy when I purchased the fish.  Price for saltwater was inexpensive, but it wasn't a FW 2.00 fish either. 

 

I had the symptom showing the day after I got the fish home.  No signs in the stores display tank.

 

Maybe I need to start QT any new fish before bringing them into tank.  

 

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On 10/27/2021 at 8:02 PM, Jakesaw said:

I picked up a little one today for my 10 gallon but he'll be in a 20 very soon b/c I know 10 gallon is too small.  He's getting acquainted with my bully of a Clownfish that's been living alone for 9 months in tank and likes to stalk any new fish I add to the tank.  It's his tank.  ALL of it.  To date, Clownfish - 3 - ever other fish I've added - 0

😬  Without a head of coral to concentrate/shoal in (with the buddies he doesn't have) a Chromis is gonna want to SWIM.  But nowhere to go in this case....with the whole (small) tank being already claimed by a known bully.

 

Don't blame the fish for being weak OR some disease for this as both are coincidental, not the cause.  (Folks often think of the disease as "the problem"...or the type of fish as "weak".  This things can be true, but way more commonly the problem is a weakened immune system – which will make any fish susceptible to [(whatever it's most susceptible to) * (whatever pathogens are present)].  100% predictable.   

 

This Chromis was placed in a bad position and is showing results you pretty much predicted yourself.  (I would have predicted the same.).  Your Clownfish was sporting a record Mike Tyson would appreciate!

 

If a bigger tank was available to the Chromis now – without the Clownfish; but with all the seasoned rock and other environmental supports from the current tank – it's possible he might recuperate.  Recovery is not so likely while all the same stresses (small tank; bully; other?) that caused the problem are still around.

 

6 minutes ago, Jakesaw said:

Maybe I need to start QT any new fish before bringing them into tank.  

QT isn't going to help this situation since the fish are going "into the squared circle".  Plus it's not easy to do QT correctly...nor is it easy to do QT in a way that it's not an additional stress on the fish.

 

I would definitely say no new fish for this tank.  Not even after the Chromis is moved/gone.

 

Let me reiterate about the clownfish:

On 10/27/2021 at 8:02 PM, Jakesaw said:

To date, Clownfish - 3 - ever other fish I've added - 0

NO NEW FISH. 😉 

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23 minutes ago, mcarroll said:

😬  Without a head of coral to concentrate/shoal in (with the buddies he doesn't have) a Chromis is gonna want to SWIM.  But nowhere to go in this case....with the whole (small) tank being already claimed by a known bully.

 

Don't blame the fish for being weak OR some disease for this as both are coincidental, not the cause.  (Folks often think of the disease as "the problem"...or the type of fish as "weak".  This things can be true, but way more commonly the problem is a weakened immune system – which will make any fish susceptible to [(whatever it's most susceptible to) * (whatever pathogens are present)].  100% predictable.   

 

This Chromis was placed in a bad position and is showing results you pretty much predicted yourself.  (I would have predicted the same.).  Your Clownfish was sporting a record Mike Tyson would appreciate!

 

If a bigger tank was available to the Chromis now – without the Clownfish; but with all the seasoned rock and other environmental supports from the current tank – it's possible he might recuperate.  Recovery is not so likely while all the same stresses (small tank; bully; other?) that caused the problem are still around.

 

QT isn't going to help this situation since the fish are going "into the squared circle".  Plus it's not easy to do QT correctly...nor is it easy to do QT in a way that it's not an additional stress on the fish.

 

I would definitely say no new fish for this tank.  Not even after the Chromis is moved/gone.

 

Let me reiterate about the clownfish:

NO NEW FISH. 😉 

Probably right.  Still sucks as i'm a fish guy first. 

 

I enjoy the coral but primarly want to watch fish swimming around in the tank.  I don't really want a tank with just 1 clownfish.  I can go to a 20 L and move the rock around.  Would that solve some of these issues.  Or do I need to return my O/G clown and try and start over on the fish side?

 

I'm not ready for a 40 gallon Breeder yet, but could do the 20L any time as I have everything I need including extra dry rock and sand.  

 

On a sidenote, besides that first day of bullying, the 2 fish seem to get along pretty well and the chromis isn't in any longer being harrassed.  He's got his space at the side of the tank that he sleeps and goes for shelter when spooked and Clowny doesn't ever go there or bother him.  Most of the day the new fish is swimming all over the tank exploring

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40 minutes ago, Jakesaw said:

It wasn't me on Instagram.  

 

If it's so common, I wish my LFS wouldn't sell em.  I was told these were very hardy when I purchased the fish.  Price for saltwater was inexpensive, but it wasn't a FW 2.00 fish either. 

 

I had the symptom showing the day after I got the fish home.  No signs in the stores display tank.

 

Maybe I need to start QT any new fish before bringing them into tank.  

 

Yeah after I posted that I saw it was my Instagram buddy @aarondus… looks like he’s consulting with Humblefish for help (Humblefish is everywhere, and definitely needs recognition for his dedication to all our fish!), and looks like maybe he’s getting some kind of testing done by AquaBiomics to see if he has uronema in the tank now. 

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9 minutes ago, Jakesaw said:

Probably right.  Still sucks as i'm a fish guy first. 

"20L" or 20 Gallons?  I'll assume G for now.

 

Why not ready for the 36" tank you mentioned?  Do you mean no space for the tank or something like that?

 

IMO 36" is the minimum size for a fish guy.  (30 or 40 gallons is still very small by saltwater standards – it's only "big" compared to nano or pico tanks, after all, which aren't really suitable for fish at all.)

 

So even in a 36" tank you still aren't gonna have a ton of fish.  But the list of potential fish you can choose from – reasonably, without pulling any stunts – is much longer.

 

9 minutes ago, Jakesaw said:

I enjoy the coral but primarly want to watch fish swimming around in the tank.

Personally I think Freshwater is way better for this aspect of enjoyment.  Schooling fish.  

 

The range of tiny fish that fit these requirements that are available for Freshwater (even at the average Petco and Petsmart) is way better.  To get the same intensity of "fish swimming around" in Saltwater, you really need a pretty large tank....the larger the better in fact since most schooling Saltwater fish are 6-12" long, or even bigger.  (I'm not aware of any schoolers that are good for regular sized Saltwater tanks....Cardinals don't really cut it.)

 

In Saltwater almost all of the tiny fish are gobies, all with more or less similar behaviors – none being "swimmers".  AND almost all of which are fairly rare to the point of being unavailable sometimes, and almost always wild-caught.

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Where I have my tank " now " space is somewhat limited.  I can make space but it would be a re-arrangement that I am not yet willing to do.  I still consider myself " trying out " the S/W hobby.  As I learn more and feel more confident in my S/W skills, I'll expand.

 

I initially started the 10 gallon b/c it was zero investment for equipment out of the box.  I got my tank and hood going with some fish, dead rock, sand and had everything else on hand.  Used SW light and a RO/DI were the only real investments I've made in the hobby besides 3 dead fish  :sad:

 

If I ever go large tank, it'll be stepped up from smaller to larger to larger.  I've always tended to keep my aquariums on the low down vs pouring money into them.  I'm just not interested in that aspect of the hobby, don't think I ever will be.  

 

I do agree that smaller tanks are limiting for fish, but I knew that going into hobby. 

 

 

 

 

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20 minutes ago, mcarroll said:

"20L" or 20 Gallons?  I'll assume G for now.

 

 

YES 20L which is short for 20 gallon LONG.  It's 30" x 12" x 12" vs the 20x10 x 12 for 10 gallon..

 

I can swap to the 20L any time, and have space for it.  Dealing with Dino issue and low nutrient had slowed me down a bit as I worked through that issue.  I still have some dino, but with Phyto and 2nd fish, I've got my Nitrates up a bit and good algae growing nicely for first time since I got the tank started.  Corals seem to be happier as well.

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