nocd Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 Long story short, I have a Fusion 10 that performs automated water changes, and Alk/Ca/Mg testing via the Neptune Dos and Trident. The shelf for the tank has an enclosed reservoir with fresh water, saltwater, and discard water. The Trident is set up to discard it's tested water into the discard section on the reservoir. This includes the chemicals used during the test (the Trident discards all of it via a waste tube). I think the automation for the shutoff of this process was disabled after I made some changes to the setup and the discard section of the reservoir overflowed into the clean saltwater section that goes back into the tank, putting testing chemicals into the water during automated water changes. I have no idea what volume this has occurred at. Half a week of 6 tests/day is my rough guess. At this point, the fish (a clown and goby) appear to be fine. There is also a pistol with the goby that appears to be fine as well. All of the coral in the tank have been closed for the past week or so, and a couple have sadly bleached over. I'm trying to salvage whatever I can. I have no 2nd tank to quarantine them into. PH in the tank is lower than usual, bouncing between 7.8-8. Normally it was between 7.9-8.1. Salinity in the tank has been consistent, 1.025-1.026. Alkalinity is about 8.5-9.5. Calcium is between 400-420. Mag is between 1300-1325. Unfortunately, I don't currently have a way to test Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate and won't be able to for a few days. What I've tried so far as a remedy: 30% Water Change Reducing Lighting (I had been adjusting a bit prior with the aid of a PAR meter). I'm currently putting together a 50% water change as well. Would love some feedback/thoughts. Thank you in advance. Quote Link to comment
seabass Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 Keep up with fresh activated carbon and water changes. Quote Link to comment
nocd Posted July 17, 2021 Author Share Posted July 17, 2021 8 minutes ago, seabass said: Keep up with fresh activated carbon and water changes. I didn't think about this. I'll swap out my Chemipure Elite when the water gets changed. Any thoughts on lighting reduction? Quote Link to comment
seabass Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 I don't see lighting as an issue. I'd probably keep the light cycle and intensity the same as it was before. Quote Link to comment
DaJMasta Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 30% water change is really small for a chemical spill into the tank, I would try at least 50% and do more than one, and sooner is better than later. Carbon is great to run and is probably good for cleaning up the residual, but in such a small tank the easiest, fastest, and probably most effective way to fix the problem is to swap all the water. 1 Quote Link to comment
nocd Posted July 17, 2021 Author Share Posted July 17, 2021 My "50%" water change ended up being roughly 5 of 7 gallons. 50% was total tank volume, but actual ended up being much more. Guess it's time at this point. I'm prepping for another one tomorrow. 1 Quote Link to comment
Jungle_vip Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 The larger water change was the appropriate thing to do. Many aquarists do 100 percent changes often. At whatever intervals or schedule they decide is best for them. I’d personally make up enough for 2-4 complete changes. That way you’re ready to go at any moment you decide it needs to be done. If it were me I’d do a WC every three days and change out all the filter media as well. Do this for a couple weeks. Then do it twice a week. Then go back to your normal schedule. So first week 100 percent water changes every 3-3 days. Second week 50 percent every three days. 3rd and 4th weeks 50 percent twice a week. My reasoning would be in case any of the sand, rock, filters, etc could be holding onto the chemicals and leaching them into the water column. Everyone handles situations differently but that’s what I would do. Flush it out. You can always stop the aggresive WCs if you feel the tank has rebounded. You know your tank better than anyone and can make that assessment as need be. The Ph isn’t a huge drop. Many successful tanks have a full number swing between night and day. So two numbers in a 24 hour period. reduced light intensity is something to consider as well for the next 4 weeks. Maybe maybe not. I would if it was my tank. Sounds like you have an amazing set up. I have system envy lol Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.