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MotherofAnimals

DIY Acrylic Sump Disaster...Is It Fixable?

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MotherofAnimals

 

Hello Everyone,

 

I'm a new Nano-Reef member, but a long time lurker and user of information on this forum. I have a question about a DIY acrylic sump that I built that is falling apart. It’s my very first time doing something like this and I built it because my cabinet is long and narrow, and nothing off the shelf would fit it, but also because I wanted to experience building one. Well, I did it but not very well. One corner seam leaks no matter what I do to it and now the back panel bottom seam has completely detached. I feel like it’s a goner at this point but I want to try to fix it since I can’t recycle it — I really don’t want to be wasteful. If I can’t fix it, then are there some ways to give the acrylic used on this project new life? Any help or guidance would be so appreciated. Thank you so much.

 

Materials used:

1/4” Cast Cell Acrylic purchased on Amazon cut by my local acrylic shop.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YV61USA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A688B15XA9PJSB6XZWVR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R9FKGZL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_C6W04DSKNV1KG1N2W8RN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9NQP8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6RHR69NJXQY2GHD7X7Z7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

**Not sure if they finished the edges as I thought it was standard.**

 

Weld-on 3 acrylic cement with a Needle tip applicator. 


Process:

I loosely followed a video from Joey, “The King of DIY” on YouTube and I used the “pin method” with two T-pins as I saturated the pieces I wanted to join together. Then I waited one minute and pulled the pins. Admittedly, I cemented the front, back, and side panels (in that order) to the bottom panel first instead of cementing them to each other. I also didn't get better at pulling pins until after completing the third panel. I used Amazon boxes to keep the panels at a stable 90 angle and in place while I waited for everything to set. And that's about it for how I did it. 

 

 

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Murphych

What adhesive did you use to build it?

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MotherofAnimals
50 minutes ago, Murphych said:

What adhesive did you use to build it?

Hi, thank you for responding. I used IPS Weld-On 3.

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Chowder's Reef

Acrylic can be tricky at times to work with. I had similar problems when I first started making my own aquariums and such (i.e. they all leaked or busted seams 😂).

 

A few things that helped me get past some of these problems:

 

>The type of acrylic matters. Cast acrylic is superior to extruded in almost any case. 

 

> Use an appropriate acrylic cement. I like using Weld-On #3 with a needle tipped applicator, but there are others that you can use as well.

 

> Edge prep is everything for good, clean joints. Whether you have someone else cut the acrylic for you or you cut it yourself, make sure to clean up and smooth the edges. This can be done with a router (or a very fine toothed saw blade on a table saw). Sandpaper is not very ideal as it can round your edges and leave poor results when you go to cement pieces together, but if you can keep the sandpaper flat and perpendicular to the edge that you are sanding it can be done.

 

Repairing a busted seam can be difficult. You may try cementing another piece of acrylic over the seam. If you have some wiggle room in your budget, I would personally scrap this sump, use the pieces to make some smaller aquariums, frag racks or media baskets or something to practice gluing acrylic, then buy another sheet and make a new sump.

 

Working with Acrylic can be more of an art than anything else, so a little practice goes a long way!

 

I know @This guy is extra salty and @Micro-Reefs Aquariums have just a tiny bit of experience in acrylic so maybe they would have more insight for a solution here 😊

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This guy is extra salty

Use weld on 3 and as a back up use weld on 16 as caulk along the edges

 

good luck!

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Micro-Reefs Aquariums

The sump can be repaired and the leak can be fixed, but not with Weldon #3 or #4.  You need thicker cement, Weldon 16 is what you need to order they come in two tubes, get one of each. The smaller is for smaller jobs, getting in and the larger one for making sure a thicker seam can be applied. 

 

Because it is a sump/filter per say, you don't need aesthetics it is a below view and water will fill it.  So, you can fix it with a good amount of Weldon 16.  You need to dry the sump 100 percent, it cannot be dry or the #16 will not set in correctly.  Once dry, super dry, run a layer(streak) of Weldon 16 on both sides where the seam was leaking.  Let it fully cure for 24 hours, I would do 48 hours better.  Then do a water test.  Weldon 16 hardens and fills cracks and microscopic holes.  It will plug that leak!

 

Hope that help you out.  They sell plastic tips to help you guide the weldon 16 glue out of the tube.  At this point, you don't need that, I want you to use a thicker stream of it on both sides of that seam.  It will not look beautiful, but the leak will stop and you will have a functional sump as if it was new!

 

Hope that helps you out!

 

Here is simple video about the different solvents:

 

How to glue Acrylic - YouTube

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MotherofAnimals
15 hours ago, Chowder's Reef said:

Acrylic can be tricky at times to work with. I had similar problems when I first started making my own aquariums and such (i.e. they all leaked or busted seams 😂).

 

A few things that helped me get past some of these problems:

 

>The type of acrylic matters. Cast acrylic is superior to extruded in almost any case. 

 

> Use an appropriate acrylic cement. I like using Weld-On #3 with a needle tipped applicator, but there are others that you can use as well.

 

> Edge prep is everything for good, clean joints. Whether you have someone else cut the acrylic for you or you cut it yourself, make sure to clean up and smooth the edges. This can be done with a router (or a very fine toothed saw blade on a table saw). Sandpaper is not very ideal as it can round your edges and leave poor results when you go to cement pieces together, but if you can keep the sandpaper flat and perpendicular to the edge that you are sanding it can be done.

 

Repairing a busted seam can be difficult. You may try cementing another piece of acrylic over the seam. If you have some wiggle room in your budget, I would personally scrap this sump, use the pieces to make some smaller aquariums, frag racks or media baskets or something to practice gluing acrylic, then buy another sheet and make a new sump.

 

Working with Acrylic can be more of an art than anything else, so a little practice goes a long way!

 

I know @This guy is extra salty and @Micro-Reefs Aquariums have just a tiny bit of experience in acrylic so maybe they would have more insight for a solution here 😊

Thank you, thank you! I'm leaning towards scrapping it and starting over. Just for the peace of mind and the feeling starting fresh and trying again. I love the idea of cutting this project up and making smaller tanks with the materials for practice. The only problem is I don't have a way to cut the acrylic at my residence, so I have no way of breaking down this project.  Unless the local shop would do it, then I'm in there like swimwear, lol. 

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Micro-Reefs Aquariums
2 hours ago, MotherofAnimals said:

Thank you, thank you! I'm leaning towards scrapping it and starting over. Just for the peace of mind and the feeling starting fresh and trying again. I love the idea of cutting this project up and making smaller tanks with the materials for practice. The only problem is I don't have a way to cut the acrylic at my residence, so I have no way of breaking down this project.  Unless the local shop would do it, then I'm in there like swimwear, lol. 

From reading your post, the beginning it appeared you wanted to salvage what you built.  Acrylic 16 will stop a leak, the sump will look ugly, and it is already not a show piece, so you can see how Acrylic 16 works to save projects and builds.

 

We use it here at my shop when we miss a seam through capillary action with the dividers or false wall.  Try practicing with what you have to stop the leak.  Weldon #4 is what you need to use with the pin method, not because although you can use it, Weldon 3 cures to0 quickly, while that is fine if you are quick, Weldon 4 is a bit longer, not much but it will give you that extra 30 secs per seam.

 

Also, practice using capillary action on a couple scrap pieces if you have them so you can perfect dividers in your sump.  From the pictures I thought you had used capillary action because pin method would be solid  seams, no dry seam, no bubbles.

 

Did you watch the video on the different seams?  And you will get better each time you do a build, it is like riding a bike.

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Chowder's Reef
13 hours ago, MotherofAnimals said:

The only problem is I don't have a way to cut the acrylic at my residence, so I have no way of breaking down this project.  Unless the local shop would do it, then I'm in there like swimwear, lol. 

It definitely helps to have a way to cut it apart haha. If you're comfortable making multiple trips (and if your local shop is willing) I'd say go for it and take it apart. It would be more work and money of course. If you just want to get your tank up and running then repairing it with weld-on #16 like they said is a solid choice and obviously a cheaper solution.

Either way the choice is yours. If you need more help/tips and tricks with getting this project done we are here to help.

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Micro-Reefs Aquariums
48 minutes ago, Chowder's Reef said:

It definitely helps to have a way to cut it apart haha. If you're comfortable making multiple trips (and if your local shop is willing) I'd say go for it and take it apart. It would be more work and money of course. If you just want to get your tank up and running then repairing it with weld-on #16 like they said is a solid choice and obviously a cheaper solution.

Either way the choice is yours. If you need more help/tips and tricks with getting this project done we are here to help.

From what I read, her title says, is it fixable?  Now we are not talking about an aquarium because the answer would be yes but not practical since the panels would be on view as a tank is suppose to be seen!

 

But she mentions it is a sump, and she is learning, wants to fix it?  Acrylic 16 shipped to her door under $20 bucks done! Sealed and she moves on to other acrylic builds with how you guided her.

 

But this talk about how to tear it apart and do all that work, absolutely No!   Fix the leak that is what this thread was about, learn Weldon 16 and report back.

 

Maybe you can advise her to try the Weldon 16 and save the project she worked so hard on. 

 

Remember she doesn't have the tools to tear apart and scrap the pieces.   

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MotherofAnimals
On 4/27/2021 at 4:16 AM, Micro-Reefs Aquariums said:

From reading your post, the beginning it appeared you wanted to salvage what you built.  Acrylic 16 will stop a leak, the sump will look ugly, and it is already not a show piece, so you can see how Acrylic 16 works to save projects and builds.

 

We use it here at my shop when we miss a seam through capillary action with the dividers or false wall.  Try practicing with what you have to stop the leak.  Weldon #4 is what you need to use with the pin method, not because although you can use it, Weldon 3 cures to0 quickly, while that is fine if you are quick, Weldon 4 is a bit longer, not much but it will give you that extra 30 secs per seam.

 

Also, practice using capillary action on a couple scrap pieces if you have them so you can perfect dividers in your sump.  From the pictures I thought you had used capillary action because pin method would be solid  seams, no dry seam, no bubbles.

 

Did you watch the video on the different seams?  And you will get better each time you do a build, it is like riding a bike.

Yes, I do want to save it for sure because the acrylic looks great and I don’t want to be wasteful, however, I’m a little worried it might leak randomly or something lol. I used the pin method for all the other seams BUT the one that broken open, I used capillary action because I was having a hard time keeping the panel up and stable (I was using Amazon boxes, LOL). I feel more confident now pushing forward with the repair because of your advice since you were able identify what method I used through a picture. That’s incredible. I bought some Weld-On 16 and going to pick it up today along with some scrap pieces. Wish me luck!

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Okay, thank you all so much for your help so far. Here is what I’ve purchased for this repair:

  1. IPS Weld-On 16
  2. Acrylic Rods cut to size of the outside seams
  3. Weld-On 3 (Because I have it on hand)
  4. and lastly, Silicone Sealant for Plastics.

I feel a bit out of my depth at this point if I’m being completely honest lol. The DIY’er in me let me quit.

 

My plan is to seal the cracks with the Weld-On 3 as well as the loose seam and let it cure for 48-hours. Then I’m going to put Weld-On 16 on the acrylic rods and place them on the parameter outside. Then I’m going to seal the inside seam with the silicone for plastics. I know silicone doesn’t work on acrylic, but I sounded like a good security net at the time of purchase — It was a panic purchase. I also thought to buy some Weld-On 40 to do this as well, but I chickened out and decided maybe that’ll be a last resort. Hopefully this will put me back on track with the sump so I can finish my little build.

 

I did notice upon inspecting the tank that there are little cracks that probably came after the last water test I did before posting on here. I’m going to attempt to repair those and march on with the rest of the repair. If nothing else comes of this, I’m at least keeping myself occupied and learning a new skill.

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Micro-Reefs Aquariums
55 minutes ago, MotherofAnimals said:

Okay, thank you all so much for your help so far. Here is what I’ve purchased for this repair:

  1. IPS Weld-On 16
  2. Acrylic Rods cut to size of the outside seams
  3. Weld-On 3 (Because I have it on hand)
  4. and lastly, Silicone Sealant for Plastics.

I feel a bit out of my depth at this point if I’m being completely honest lol. The DIY’er in me let me quit.

 

My plan is to seal the cracks with the Weld-On 3 as well as the loose seam and let it cure for 48-hours. Then I’m going to put Weld-On 16 on the acrylic rods and place them on the parameter outside. Then I’m going to seal the inside seam with the silicone for plastics. I know silicone doesn’t work on acrylic, but I sounded like a good security net at the time of purchase — It was a panic purchase. I also thought to buy some Weld-On 40 to do this as well, but I chickened out and decided maybe that’ll be a last resort. Hopefully this will put me back on track with the sump so I can finish my little build.

 

I did notice upon inspecting the tank that there are little cracks that probably came after the last water test I did before posting on here. I’m going to attempt to repair those and march on with the rest of the repair. If nothing else comes of this, I’m at least keeping myself occupied and learning a new skill.

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Okay, good job on purchasing IPS Weldon 16.  You will not need to use the silicone, that is for glass aquariums, don't use that for acrylic.  It can be used for other purposes with acrylic but I don't want to get into that, just put that away for now.

 

You will only be needing to use #16 on this fix, I am not sure what the rods are for.

 

Before I begin with giving you the proper advice to fix this build, can you take some pictures of the sump from a distance, so I can see what you did and where it needs fixing.  Once I see the whole tank and the area that it was leaking make sure you circle that with a marker in the picture so I can identify the area.  

For example, say you have a simple box you made and it is leaking from the seam on the bottom left corner, I want you to lay down a bead of Weldon 16 left to right, up and down passing the area that was leaking by 4 inches in each area.  If you are in doubt where the leak starts and ends, I want you to lay down a complete bead from the inside, not the outside, from one end to the other without breaking the bead.  If you run it across the bead will swell a little and then recess into the pocket and harden.  Nothing will get through that seam, nothing, but if you have a break in the bead, water can get through, so make sure it runs from one side to the other, does that make sense?

 

Get me the pictures so I can evaluate and we will fix your tank, promise it will not leak, promise on that!

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51 minutes ago, Micro-Reefs Aquariums said:

Okay, good job on purchasing IPS Weldon 16.  You will not need to use the silicone, that is for glass aquariums, don't use that for acrylic.  It can be used for other purposes with acrylic but I don't want to get into that, just put that away for now.

Okay, I put the silicone in the return bin. Someone at the acrylic store suggested it to use to help “seal” the leaks. I thought it didn’t work, but I also didn’t want to make multiple trips to HD in case it was recommended more by other people. I bought it on a whim. 

 

54 minutes ago, Micro-Reefs Aquariums said:

You will only be needing to use #16 on this fix, I am not sure what the rods are for.

I think it was suggested above, so again, I saw them at the acrylic store for $0.50 and bought on a whim just in case. 😂

 

I’ve attached the pictures of my sump and circled the leaks as well as took pictures with water actively leaking from the spots. The two end-seam leaks only happen when I tilt the water to that side. I’m assuming that has to do with pressure? I hope the pictures are helpful. I’m more than willing to take more if need be. Thank you so much for your help.

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Micro-Reefs Aquariums

You have done an excellent job identifying where the leaks are at, we will patch this sump perfectly with Weldon 16, and it will not leak.

 

We might need another tube of Weldon 16, I think you purchased the smaller tube?

 

I want you to seal all four corners with the Weldon 16, reason is I don't know of other areas might leak later due to pressure, you haven't been able to do a 100 percent water check, since it leaks on the bottom.

 

Start at one end of the bottom seam and move all the way to the other side, making sure it is a continuous bead of cement.  Do the same to the other side L x W like doing a square just the bottom all inside do not put glue on the outside.  

 

You can work on one seam first to practice, let it dry 24 hours then do the other the same way the next day.  Then if you feel better complete the other two sides of the bottom square the next day.

 

I want the full seams on the bottom of the tank, the base covered in a thin bead of cement the whole perimeter.

 

I will post pics of what I want you to do if you do not understand my instructions.  

 

Let us first do that.

 

Remember this is a viscous glue that is thick not a liquid like Weldon 3.

 

So careful handling it so as not to get it on the panels as it will marr the side it smears on.

 

This is important if this was a show tank.  In your case it is a filter so relax if you accidently smear.

 

Hope this makes some sense 

 

Remember tank needs to be 100 percent dry before we use Weldon 16.  100 percent dry not moist at all, okay?

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MotherofAnimals
On 4/30/2021 at 3:25 PM, Micro-Reefs Aquariums said:

You have done an excellent job identifying where the leaks are at, we will patch this sump perfectly with Weldon 16, and it will not leak.

 

We might need another tube of Weldon 16, I think you purchased the smaller tube?

 

I want you to seal all four corners with the Weldon 16, reason is I don't know of other areas might leak later due to pressure, you haven't been able to do a 100 percent water check, since it leaks on the bottom.

 

Start at one end of the bottom seam and move all the way to the other side, making sure it is a continuous bead of cement.  Do the same to the other side L x W like doing a square just the bottom all inside do not put glue on the outside.  

 

You can work on one seam first to practice, let it dry 24 hours then do the other the same way the next day.  Then if you feel better complete the other two sides of the bottom square the next day.

 

I want the full seams on the bottom of the tank, the base covered in a thin bead of cement the whole perimeter.

 

I will post pics of what I want you to do if you do not understand my instructions.  

 

Let us first do that.

 

Remember this is a viscous glue that is thick not a liquid like Weldon 3.

 

So careful handling it so as not to get it on the panels as it will marr the side it smears on.

 

This is important if this was a show tank.  In your case it is a filter so relax if you accidently smear.

 

Hope this makes some sense 

 

Remember tank needs to be 100 percent dry before we use Weldon 16.  100 percent dry not moist at all, okay?

Okay! @Micro Reef Tank I got the first seam done and will wait until tomorrow night to do the rest. I blow dried it earlier today to make sure it was dry. I let it cool and applied the weld-on 16. I feel like I got a pretty thin-ish bead laid down and it was intact. I feel pretty confident to do the other seams, but I’ll wait the 24-hours before touching them. I’m excited! I feel like everything is going to go great. 😀.

image.jpg

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11 hours ago, MotherofAnimals said:

Okay! @Micro Reef Tank I got the first seam done and will wait until tomorrow night to do the rest. I blow dried it earlier today to make sure it was dry. I let it cool and applied the weld-on 16. I feel like I got a pretty thin-ish bead laid down and it was intact. I feel pretty confident to do the other seams, but I’ll wait the 24-hours before touching them. I’m excited! I feel like everything is going to go great. 😀.

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Good work my young Padawan learner, you are doing great!  Remember that you don't require a lot of the cement, just that it doesn't break as you run it across, a thin layer is all you need to make the seal.  Also, the bead needs to make contact on both the horizontal and vertical panels, does that make sense?  You can sometimes tilt the aquarium and lay that bead into the vertical pocket of both panels straight across making sure that both panels are hit and the cement thus will ooze into the union between the two.

 

I cannot see from the picture if your bead ran across on both panels and into the union, but it looks like that happened.

 

If so, that seam of cement will become solid like hardened acrylic, no water will pass at all! Promise!  If it does we can discuss that next, but let us see if you can do all other sides of the tank bottom.

 

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On 5/2/2021 at 10:07 AM, Micro-Reefs Aquariums said:

Good work my young Padawan learner, you are doing great!  Remember that you don't require a lot of the cement, just that it doesn't break as you run it across, a thin layer is all you need to make the seal.  Also, the bead needs to make contact on both the horizontal and vertical panels, does that make sense?  You can sometimes tilt the aquarium and lay that bead into the vertical pocket of both panels straight across making sure that both panels are hit and the cement thus will ooze into the union between the two.

 

I cannot see from the picture if your bead ran across on both panels and into the union, but it looks like that happened.

 

If so, that seam of cement will become solid like hardened acrylic, no water will pass at all! Promise!  If it does we can discuss that next, but let us see if you can do all other sides of the tank bottom.

 

Sooooooo, I'm happy to say that it worked!!! So far, no little leaks or droplets of any kind can be found!

 

How long should I water test it for? I've read anywhere from a few days to a week. 

 

Thank you so much, @Micro-Reefs Aquariums, for helping me salvage this project. I feel so full of pride that I was able to accomplish this with no prior knowledge of building something with acrylic. 

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4 hours ago, MotherofAnimals said:

Sooooooo, I'm happy to say that it worked!!! So far, no little leaks or droplets of any kind can be found!

 

How long should I water test it for? I've read anywhere from a few days to a week. 

 

Thank you so much, @Micro-Reefs Aquariums, for helping me salvage this project. I feel so full of pride that I was able to accomplish this with no prior knowledge of building something with acrylic. 

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I am very proud of you!  I knew you could do it, and that is why I stepped in when I heard your title on the thread, "DIY Acrylic Sump Disaster...Is It Fixable?

 

I have worked with acrylic since 2013, and if you wanted to stop leaks, acrylic #16 is designed for patch work on sumps that may leak in a corner of a baffle, in this case it was the seams which as you see are patched up.

 

Acrylic gets super strong the longer it has to cure and by 1 week you are at 100 percent strength. 

 

On the vertical seams, if she isn't leaking in 3 days she is going to hold with how you did capillary action on the sides.  Remember that all water vessels such as anything that needs to hold water needs to use the PIN method.

 

But capillary action is simple and easy to do, but not the preferred way due to the pressure tanks undergo with water.  For, now this is a win win for your 1st project of many more.  Let me tell you it only gets better and better with each new build, so congrats my young green grasshopper, I salute you!

 

Mike Guerrero

Owner/Founder

Micro-Reefs Aquariums LLC

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MotherofAnimals
29 minutes ago, Micro-Reefs Aquariums said:

Acrylic gets super strong the longer it has to cure and by 1 week you are at 100 percent strength. 

Oh no! Does that mean I SHOULDN'T be water testing yet?! I've been doing the water test for about 36-hours. I let the last seam I did cure for 24-hours before filling the sump with water running the current test. 
 

I got too excited to fill it up. 
 

Thank you, Mike. You have been a fantastic teacher. I'm Ayden, by the way; it's a pleasure to meet you. 

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Ayden,

 

For this project at where you are, is fine with the water test.

 

Just a general rule that, after about 1 week the acrylic has sealed in tensile strength to 100 percent.

 

Enjoy what you have done, be proud of it and take away all the lessons you learned.

 

Don't listen to non fabricators of acrylic the materials for glass fabricators doesn't apply to us vice versa.

 

Hope that makes sense?

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This guy is extra salty

I can’t wait to see it in action!

it’s nice to see other use acrylic to build sumps cause they’re 100% salvageable (in most cases) 

 

be weary after about a year once the acrylic settles into being bowed from the water displacement I would recheck your seams then just to be cautious. 

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2 hours ago, This guy is extra salty said:

I can’t wait to see it in action!

it’s nice to see other use acrylic to build sumps cause they’re 100% salvageable (in most cases) 

 

be weary after about a year once the acrylic settles into being bowed from the water displacement I would recheck your seams then just to be cautious. 

It really depends on how much water this sump will use, if she only has it 1/4 or 1/2 full, then it will hold with what I am seeing.  However, I need to know the L x W x H so, I can use a calculator online that will tell me if a Eurobrace is required.

 

Bowing is normal and part of the properties that tell us pressure is being absorbed by the panel.  The Eurobrace is required to give resistance security for the panel that is in fact suppose to bend. like that of an airplane, it's wings need to flex to fly. 

 

If Ayden, needs a eurobrace I recommend two vertical bars 6 inches in width each bar and then the length of the sump.  This will secure the build for moderate use of this sump, when I say moderate, it should only carry 1/2 full not 3/4 full as that would be too much stress and require a more proficient eurobrace. 

 

 

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MotherofAnimals
31 minutes ago, Micro-Reefs Aquariums said:

It really depends on how much water this sump will use, if she only has it 1/4 or 1/2 full, then it will hold with what I am seeing.  However, I need to know the L x W x H so, I can use a calculator online that will tell me if a Eurobrace is required.

 

Bowing is normal and part of the properties that tell us pressure is being absorbed by the panel.  The Eurobrace is required to give resistance security for the panel that is in fact suppose to bend. like that of an airplane, it's wings need to flex to fly. 

 

If Ayden, needs a eurobrace I recommend two vertical bars 6 inches in width each bar and then the length of the sump.  This will secure the build for moderate use of this sump, when I say moderate, it should only carry 1/2 full not 3/4 full as that would be too much stress and require a more proficient eurobrace. 

 

 

The measurements of the sump are

23”x9”x12”.

 

I was thinking of only keeping it half full. I did notice that when it was 100% full, there was a bit of bowing, but I don't notice it all when the water level is how it is in the picture. 

F20F7095-7A48-4403-A535-FC84680B1147.jpeg

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This guy is extra salty
1 hour ago, Micro-Reefs Aquariums said:

It really depends on how much water this sump will use, if she only has it 1/4 or 1/2 full, then it will hold with what I am seeing.  However, I need to know the L x W x H so, I can use a calculator online that will tell me if a Eurobrace is required.

 

Bowing is normal and part of the properties that tell us pressure is being absorbed by the panel.  The Eurobrace is required to give resistance security for the panel that is in fact suppose to bend. like that of an airplane, it's wings need to flex to fly. 

 

If Ayden, needs a eurobrace I recommend two vertical bars 6 inches in width each bar and then the length of the sump.  This will secure the build for moderate use of this sump, when I say moderate, it should only carry 1/2 full not 3/4 full as that would be too much stress and require a more proficient eurobrace. 

 

 

I agree with you 100% if you take a gander at my “365 build” you’ll get what I’m saying. 
 

it also depends on the acrylic thickness and also if it’s cast or extruded. It’s nice to see other plastic heads out there! 

59 minutes ago, MotherofAnimals said:

The measurements of the sump are

23”x9”x12”.

 

I was thinking of only keeping it half full. I did notice that when it was 100% full, there was a bit of bowing, but I don't notice it all when the water level is how it is in the picture. 

F20F7095-7A48-4403-A535-FC84680B1147.jpeg

It’s .220 acrylic? 

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