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Kindanewtothis

Kinda's "Magnificent" 50 and what not to do...

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TNSRFR
48 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

I think my RG is sick (joke) it is visiting to other side of the tank for the first time

20210716_145142.jpg

They are a very shy fish.  It takes awhile for them to be brave and start venturing.  It’s a good sign. 

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Kindanewtothis

Nitrate are higher than 5. I have to test again using a dilution method to test between 5 and 50. Using the other test I'd say I'm between 5 and 10. I hope it's not too high... I've been dosing nitrate.

 

Edit: how do you create only 7 ml of sea water ( could be more but only need 7)

 

Re-edit: 

 

 

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seabass
55 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

how do you create only 7 ml of sea water

You don't "create" 7ml of water, you measure 7ml out of either tank water, or some new saltwater.

 

Use a measuring syringe like: https://www.amazon.ca/Disposable-Scientific-Measuring-Refilling-Filtration/dp/B0989YMXLV/

or a measuring test tube: https://www.amazon.ca/Good-Cool-Transparent-Graduated-Measuring/dp/B010EMT1MG/

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Kindanewtothis

It's 9ml and not 7 that is needed.

20210716_184701.jpg

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Kindanewtothis

So... if I did it correctly my nitrate are really high, 23.7... will test again...

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Kindanewtothis

Screenshot_20210716-190734_Google.jpg

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Kindanewtothis

Second test nitrates 20.5. My old test was useless or I was not good to "guess" the pink colour. I've been dosing nitrates for nothing I guess, I must even have made it worst, was expecting between 5 and 10.

 

How do I lower nitrates without changing water?

 

Seachem de-nitrate?

 

Nitrate remover pad for the filter?

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seabass

Don't do anything.  20ppm is fine.

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Kindanewtothis
Just now, seabass said:

Don't do anything.  20ppm is fine.

It is? 

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rough eye
25 minutes ago, seabass said:

Don't do anything.

lol as if that were an option.

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Kindanewtothis
1 minute ago, rough eye said:

lol as if that were an option.

Not sure I understand. You think I'm gonna do something anyway?

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Kindanewtothis

Well I did something, but that was planned. Added the pods to both tanks

20210716_205119.jpg

20210716_205057.jpg

20210716_205052.jpg

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seabass
56 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

It is? 

Image result for yep gif

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Kindanewtothis

 

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seabass

Your tank has a lot of potential.  I really hope that you can beat the dinos soon.  It doesn't look hopeless in the video.

 

BTW, I think my dinos have decreased substantially.

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Kindanewtothis
3 minutes ago, seabass said:

Your tank has a lot of potential.  I really hope that you can beat the dinos soon.  It doesn't look hopeless in the video.

Thanks, that is trully appreciated. It's also early in the day.

 

4 minutes ago, seabass said:

BTW, I think my dinos have decreased substantially

The big clean up I did help I think, including the new pads in the filter. But it slowly coming back on the sand (slower than expected). I saw a video were they recommanded to blow off the dinos on the rocks. I know @Clown79 recommanded not to because it disperse them but, as they say in the video it get in the filters and on the walls were it's easy to pick up with a sponge.

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Kindanewtothis

With better lighting

 

 

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seabass
2 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

I saw a video were they recommanded to blow off the dinos on the rocks. I know @Clown79 recommanded not to because it disperse them but, as they say in the video it get in the filters and on the walls were it's easy to pick up with a sponge.

I can't definitely say one way or another.  Intuitively, I feel that dinos can spread throughout the tank anyways.  Also, and you observed this in the shake test, even if broken up, they will find a way to group back together.  That said, I believe it's easier to manually remove the dinos when they are clumped together versus dispersed.  However, your filtration (skimmer, micron filter, or UV sterilizer) might remove more when broken up. :unsure:

 

Possibly there is a distinction between dispersed and spread (as in to contaminate other non-affected areas).  I'm not really sure what's best.

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Kindanewtothis
1 minute ago, seabass said:

I can't definitely say one way or another.  Intuitively, I feel that dinos can spread throughout the tank anyways.  Also, and you observed this in the shake test, even if broken up, they will find a way to group back together.  That said, I believe it's easier to manually remove the dinos when they are clumped together versus dispersed.  However, your filtration (skimmer, micron filter, or UV sterilizer) might remove more when broken up. :unsure:

 

Possibly there is a distinction between dispersed and spread (as in to contaminate other non-affected areas).  I'm not really sure what's best.

No UV sterilizer, don't know what it is.

 

I suck off the grouped ones then blow the rest.

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seabass
4 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

No UV sterilizer, don't know what it is.

It uses UV light to kill anything passing through it (assuming it is powerful enough and the flow is right).

https://www.amazon.ca/Killing-Machine-GKM24W-Internal-Replacement/dp/B08ZB6NW6Z/

 

BTW, I'm not sure if the above unit is suitable for your sized tank (it's just an example of a UV sterilizer).  I'd have to research the recommendations some before I could recommend a UV filter.  I'm not even suggesting that you get one; however, UV is a common tool that people use to fight dinos.  Some species of dinos are more susceptible to UV sterilizers.  The one I listed is one of the cheaper ones.

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Kindanewtothis
5 minutes ago, seabass said:

It uses UV light to kill anything passing through it (assuming it is powerful enough and the flow is right).

https://www.amazon.ca/Killing-Machine-GKM24W-Internal-Replacement/dp/B08ZB6NW6Z/

 

BTW, I'm not sure if the above unit is suitable for your sized tank (it's just an example of a UV sterilizer).  I'd have to research the recommendations some before I could recommend a UV filter.  I'm not even suggesting that you get one; however, UV is a common tool that people use to fight dinos.  Some species of dinos are more susceptible to UV sterilizers.  The one I listed is one of the cheaper ones.

You certainly got my attention, at that price I would not hesitate long if it fits my setup. I'm commited to beat those dinos.

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seabass

I've heard this rule of thumb for dinos: 1 watt/3 gallons of display tank volume, and flow through the UV at 1-3x display gallons/hour.  So for you, that would be (at least) 17 watts, at 50 to 150 gph.  So the one I listed would be better.

 

Here's the thing.  People with dinos get desperate for a solution (I might even count myself in this group).  They are willing to purchase expensive equipment and try radical approaches in an attempt to get rid of them (heck I even tried dosing bleach to rid rid of them many years ago).

 

I'm not even really sure that a UV sterilizer is compatible with the approach that we have suggested that you follow.  For example, I'm currently trying to encourage algae growth, whereas UV sterilizers were traditionally used to clear algae blooms.  Certainly, it would kill phytoplankton (which would end up reducing food for your pods).

 

Again, wish I could give you the magic recipe.  I feel it takes a lot of work and patience.  I also believe that finding a quick fix for dinos just isn't realistic.

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seabass

That said, there are many reports of UV sterilizers helping with dinos (or even getting rid of them).  You might need a positive ID of the species of dinos you are dealing with.  Then, research the heck out of UV treatments for dinos before you jump into anything.

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