Kinda's Large Tank Adventure (LTA)

[Clown79]

8 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

So 260$, I hope it works. I really need this much?

 

Guess I could use less since you used 24 oz for 25g

I'd start with 2-3 bottles of zooplankton first and save the other bottles.  

[Kindanewtothis]

3 hours ago, Clown79 said:

Lol its not all phyto. Its 1 bottle of phyto.

 

1 bottle of zooplankton blend won't seed a 50g. 

I used more than 1 for a 25g.

 

3 probably would have been good plus 1 bottle of the phyto for weekly dosing. 

 

I didn't get to respond in time before the op put in the order. 

I ordered the smaller one (65 oz) that they say it's for 10-30 gallons.

[Kindanewtothis]

5 hours ago, Tired said:

Welp, that's a lot of phyto. Personally, I would have started with a bottle of copepods and keeping the nutrients up, seeing what happened. Dinos aren't an emergency if nothing is actively dying, you just have to set about correction measures promptly. 

 

But, hey, that should get you a good jump start going on your pod population! Hopefully that'll knock the dinos right out. 

I saw horror stories about dinos, I wanted to act while it's not a big problem. 

[Kindanewtothis]

17 hours ago, Clown79 said:

Dino's are a pain, the faster you get a game plan, the faster you get them under control.

 

The longer you wait the worse they get and the harder it is to get rid of them...this happened in my qt tank. I let it go and they took over.

I took no chances 🙂

[Kindanewtothis]

Since water and some rocks that are in the 10g came from the 50 I think I have some dinos in the small tank also...

 

I suppose I should seed it also.

[IceParrot]

I’m going through an immense Dino infestation myself. Keep us updated if this works and best of luck.

[Clown79]

3 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Since water and some rocks that are in the 10g came from the 50 I think I have some dinos in the small tank also...

 

I suppose I should seed it also.

Ya, i would.

[PeterU]

4 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Since water and some rocks that are in the 10g came from the 50 I think I have some dinos in the small tank also...

 

I suppose I should seed it also.

Whether your 10 has dinos or not, I would still take some of what you are getting to seed the 10.

[Kindanewtothis]

I suppose it's not the best time to add a new coral.

 

There is someone in my hometown selling torch. Is it ok to be placed it in the middle/top of the tank ?

[seabass]

Your call.  However, I have a rule that I like to stick to:  I never add anything (besides additions to the cleanup crew) when my tank is having a problem.  It has served me pretty well.

[Kindanewtothis]

7 minutes ago, seabass said:

Your call.  However, I have a rule that I like to stick to:  I never add anything (besides additions to the cleanup crew) when my tank is having a problem.  It has served me pretty well.

Damn it Gandalf you're no fun hahaha! I'll wait a little.

[seabass]

[rough eye]

remember what they say - everything good happens fast in this hobby.

[Kindanewtothis]

5 minutes ago, rough eye said:

remember what they say - everything good happens fast in this hobby.

Isn't it the opposite, like take your time and be patient? (Which I'm terrible at)

[Kindanewtothis]

13 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

There is someone in my hometown selling torch. Is it ok to be placed it in the middle/top of the tank ?

I'm looking for a coral, lps, that would be place in the middle/top of the tank. So I need something that needs more light, and maybe a moderate flow. Any suggestion ?

 

I'm not gonna add it now, just want to make a choice and read about it.

 

Also, I would like to move, what has been identify as a frogspawn, from the bottom of the tank to about 6 inches higher. The guy I got from had some at different hight in his tank. What do they mean by lighting requirement: moderate??? So middle?

[seabass]

1 minute ago, Kindanewtothis said:

What do they mean by lighting requirement: moderate?

Yeah, that's not very specific.  A range of PAR levels would be better.  I believe moderate lighting is sometimes considered somewhere between 50-150 PAR.  I believe that I've read somewhere that the upper end of PAR for LPS is 250.

 

While most of us don't own a PAR meter, lighting manufacturers often provide generic PAR readings.  Also, PAR meters can sometimes be rented by stores, or even online.  But generally, moderate lighting is simply considered somewhere between low and intense.  For your aquascape, I'd avoid placement of your frogspawn up high, directly under one of your pendants.

 

Corals can be acclimated to various conditions.  Stability is often more important than an ideal parameter.  Remember that moving a coral changes its exposure to light, and flow (which can also affect access to food), and might even physically damage the coral during the move.  I'm not saying that you shouldn't ever move a coral, as there are a number of reasons why you might want to do so; however, excessive moving can be harmful.

[Kindanewtothis]

25 minutes ago, seabass said:

Corals can be acclimated to various conditions.  Stability is often more important than an ideal parameter.  Remember that moving a coral changes its exposure to light, and flow (which can also affect access to food), and might even physically damage the coral during the move.  I'm not saying that you shouldn't ever move a coral, as there are a number of reasons why you might want to do so; however, excessive moving can be harmful.

It's on a small rock, what I'm thinking is that it has no place to expend. I would move the small rock up on a bigger one (and glue it there). I would move it on the rock behind it on the picture. 

[seabass]

Yeah, I'd epoxy it onto the main rock structure too.  It is also looking a little less translucent now. 👍

[Kindanewtothis]

It's done. I turned on the acclimation mode on the lights. It did not enjoy the move for the moment but I suppose it's normal.

[Kindanewtothis]

It's back fully open.

[Kindanewtothis]

On 6/14/2021 at 1:38 PM, Tired said:

For the 10 gallon, you could get one of the smaller shrimpgobies, like a yasha haze or antenna goby, and pair it with a candycane pistol shrimp. Then pick something small, colorful, and perching to provide some color on top of the roc, like a clown goby. . There aren't really any actively swimming saltwater fish you can put in a tank that size, because active swimming means they need more space. An ocellaris clownfish might be okay. 

What if I add the clown goby first?

[seabass]

2 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

What if I add the clown goby first?

I might hold off until you are sure that dinos are no longer a problem.  Some say that they don't entirely go away, but it's possible to get, and keep, them under control.  There are numerous success stories (as well as stories of people giving up on their tanks in frustration).

 

I know that it sounds like Clown79 has fighting dinos down pat; but the method she uses doesn't always work for everyone (with all species of dinos).  However, the introduction of competing life (and supporting that life) might just be the most effective way to combat them.  Keep posting what you are doing and hopefully she will continue to weigh in and assist you in your battle with dinoflagellates.

 

I'm currently trying SpongExcel (sodium silicate) to try to encourage competition from diatoms and other competing life.  I've also introduced some pods (I need to add more), and have been dosing phyto as well as both phosphate and nitrate.  Some people suggest that increasing the temperature to 83°F can also help.  But raising temperatures doesn't come without some risks:

Quote

Reef aquaria do, however, have limitations that may make their optimal temperature somewhat lower. During normal functioning of a reef aquarium, the oxygen level and the metabolic rate of the aquarium inhabitants are not often important issues. During a crisis such as a power failure, however, the dissolved oxygen can be rapidly used up. Lower temperatures not only allow a higher oxygen level before an emergency, but will also slow the consumption of that oxygen by slowing the metabolism of the aquarium's inhabitants. The production of ammonia as organisms begin to die may also be slower at lower temperatures. For reasons such as this, one may choose to strike a practical balance between temperatures that are too high (even if corals normally thrive in the ocean at those temperatures), and those that are too low.

Source: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/

 

UV helps with some types of dinos, but I have Amphidinium dinoflagellates (confirmed with a microscope) which drops down into the sand and makes UV treatment less effective.  I anticipate that my problem won't fully go away until I can get green film algae growing instead of dinos.

[Kindanewtothis]

46 minutes ago, seabass said:

I might hold off until you are sure that dinos are no longer a problem.  Some say that they don't entirely go away, but it's possible to get, and keep, them under control. 

I've only seen some possible trace of dinos in the 10g. I know I might have a dino problem eventually in the 10g but this is really not the case right now. I will seed this tank as well anyway (if my order is ever out for delivery...) I've put on hold adding anything to the 50g, but I think adding something to the 10g is an acceptable risk.

[Kindanewtothis]

As you espect, I went to my LFS. They had neon gobies which was recommend to me here (among many others) and I saw them about a month ago so they did not just arrived a the LFS. I always said I wanted something that moved around and that's what they were doing at the LFS. I only got one so pistol shrimp pair is still a possibility.

[seabass]

2 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

As you espect, I went to my LFS. They had neon gobies which was recommend to me here (among many others) and I saw them about a month ago so they did not just arrived a the LFS. I always said I wanted something that moved around and that's what they were doing at the LFS. I only got one so pistol shrimp pair is still a possibility.

I don't believe that a neon goby is a shrimp goby which forms a symbiotic relationship with a pistol shrimp.  Instead, you could try a yellow clown goby; both should be able to exist in a 10 gallon tank.