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Kindanewtothis

Kinda's "Magnificent" 50 and what not to do...

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Tired

You don't need a moonlight mode, and it's probably best to not have any lights at night, so the fish can sleep. Remember, fish don't have eyelids, they can't just shut their eyes. 

 

You can't stop the anemone from roaming. If it's somewhere it doesn't want to be, it'll move, and may even let go and float around the tank if upset enough.. There's no way to restrain it. 

 

Cyano can be normal in a new tank, it's not necessarily a bad sign. It can mean excess organics or high nutrients, but may be part of the tank maturing. You're definitely feeding way too much, though. Food you give the fish should be gone in a minute or two, with little to no food left blowing around, and you should only give the corals a bit of food at a time. Food for corals should be put directly on the corals for them to engulf, not left loose. 

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Clown79
1 hour ago, Kindanewtothis said:

I use a "sponge pad" directly in the filter. I got a skimmer.

The sponge might be adding to the nutrient issues. Sponges tend to be nutrient and detritus traps, even when cleaned weekly.

 

The sponge will still get clogged with algae and debris.

 

Floss isn't a nutrient trap because its changed twice a week. 

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Clown79
1 hour ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Good news! The mushroom that was splitting is now 2 mushrooms, I'm excited! Lights have been closed for more than an hour now so it's "closed". 

 

Do you use lights at night, moonlight mode? I have ask on the AI prime facebook group and it's 50-50.

20210611_213922.jpg

I liked using moonilight only for a few hrs after lights out, just cool for some extra viewing time to see the neat stuff that happens at night. I ran mine till 12am. 

 

 

I set mine 5 - 3% on my primes.

 

I also like that its a bit more natural offering some moonlight, just like we do sunrise/set with ramp ups and downs.

 

The nice thing is with the Prime, the moonlight follows the real moon phase so some nights you won't have moonlighting, some nights it will be 3% and some 5%

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seabass
2 hours ago, Clown79 said:

The sponge might be adding to the nutrient issues.

You're talking mainly about high nitrate.  In this case, nitrate is good, but phosphate is high.  I believe the sponge is actually a phosphate pad; but besides the phosphate pad, I don't really know what media is being used.

 

 

@Kindanewtothis, nutrients are going to get rapidly taken up by the cyano bloom.  You'll soon see phosphate dropping quickly (even without phosphate reducing media).  And nitrate will likely bottom out as the bloom uses the available nutrients.

 

Cyano isn't the worst thing in the world to deal with.  It usually can be brought under control with proper tank maintenance and feeding.

 

I my opinion, cyano is either due to a bacterial imbalance, or more likely, an excess of organics (like decaying food, detritus on the rocks and sand bed, and/or dissolved organics in the water).  The shrimp is likely taking care of much of the excess food, but you should still be purposeful in not over feeding.  The skimmer should take care of much of the dissolved organics in the water, although you could even add activated carbon media to further remove these dissolved organics.

 

However, the main reason that you are having a cyano bloom (again, in my opinion), is excess detritus on the sand bed.  Sand bed maintenance is a common problem (even for some more experienced reef keepers).  If the substrate is coarse, detritus gets trapped in between the grains.  If the substrate is very fine, the sand might siphon out along with the detritus.

 

During maintenance, I would first blow detritus off of the rocks with a turkey baster, then siphon it off of the top of the sand bed.  Finally, I just rinse out and return any sand that was accidentally removed.

 

Getting back to nitrate and phosphate.  A phosphate reducing media might not be necessary during a cyano bloom.  In fact, you might find it difficult to maintain healthy levels of inorganic nutrients until the bloom is gone.  I'm not even opposed to dosing nutrients to try to maintain minimum levels (nitrate of 2ppm, and phosphate of 0.03ppm).

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Kindanewtothis
On 6/10/2021 at 10:23 AM, seabass said:

Haha... wait until it decides it prefers the back of your tank, so you can't even see it (or the clownfish which will follow it).

20210612_053756.thumb.jpg.865444f78b61a80d4e7683df5652cd71.jpg

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Kindanewtothis
2 hours ago, seabass said:

I'm not even opposed to dosing nutrients to try to maintain minimum levels (nitrate of 2ppm, and phosphate of 0.03ppm).

I only found nitrate removers, could you recommand something ?

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Kindanewtothis
6 hours ago, Clown79 said:

I liked using moonilight only for a few hrs after lights out, just cool for some extra viewing time to see the neat stuff that happens at night. I ran mine till 12am. 

 

 

I set mine 5 - 3% on my primes.

 

I also like that its a bit more natural offering some moonlight, just like we do sunrise/set with ramp ups and downs.

 

The nice thing is with the Prime, the moonlight follows the real moon phase so some nights you won't have moonlighting, some nights it will be 3% and some 5%

I've been using it for 2 weeks then I stop (by mistake at first) and then the anemone moved when it pitch black, you it be related?

 

Lunar mode is back on. Max 5%

Screenshot_20210612-055815_myAI.jpg

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Kindanewtothis
8 hours ago, Tired said:

You don't need a moonlight mode, and it's probably best to not have any lights at night, so the fish can sleep. Remember, fish don't have eyelids, they can't just shut their eyes. 

 

You can't stop the anemone from roaming. If it's somewhere it doesn't want to be, it'll move, and may even let go and float around the tank if upset enough.. There's no way to restrain it. 

 

Cyano can be normal in a new tank, it's not necessarily a bad sign. It can mean excess organics or high nutrients, but may be part of the tank maturing. You're definitely feeding way too much, though. Food you give the fish should be gone in a minute or two, with little to no food left blowing around, and you should only give the corals a bit of food at a time. Food for corals should be put directly on the corals for them to engulf, not left loose. 

 

6 hours ago, Clown79 said:

I liked using moonilight only for a few hrs after lights out, just cool for some extra viewing time to see the neat stuff that happens at night. I ran mine till 12am. 

 

 

I set mine 5 - 3% on my primes.

 

I also like that its a bit more natural offering some moonlight, just like we do sunrise/set with ramp ups and downs.

 

The nice thing is with the Prime, the moonlight follows the real moon phase so some nights you won't have moonlighting, some nights it will be 3% and some 5%

Still 50-50 on the lunar mode. Like I said I've put it back on but altough I enjoy seeing my think at night I'm not sure that just the lights in the room aren't enough to watch things at night. Plus, my corals don't fully close at night if I use the lunar mode.

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Kindanewtothis
6 hours ago, Clown79 said:

I liked using moonilight only for a few hrs after lights out, just cool for some extra viewing time to see the neat stuff that happens at night. I ran mine till 12am. 

 

 

I set mine 5 - 3% on my primes.

 

I also like that its a bit more natural offering some moonlight, just like we do sunrise/set with ramp ups and downs.

 

The nice thing is with the Prime, the moonlight follows the real moon phase so some nights you won't have moonlighting, some nights it will be 3% and some 5%

I miss-quoted you. Sorry, you said just for a few hours.

 

But from my understanding, the lunar mode is on all night to work as intended.

 

"How does the lunar cycle work? – AquaIllumination" https://support.aquaillumination.com/hc/en-us/articles/223487248-How-does-the-lunar-cycle-work-

 

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seabass
1 hour ago, Kindanewtothis said:

I only found nitrate removers, could you recommand something ?

https://www.reefsupplies.ca/online-store/Brightwell-Aquatics-NeoNitro-Balanced-Nitrogen-Supplement-Ultra-Low-Nutrient-Reefs-500ML.html

 

 

You can also buy dry aquarium fertilizer here (nitrate and phosphate):  https://aquariumfertilizer.com/shop/

Quote

 

Potassium Nitrate

An oxidizer and may cause customs to ask questions about its use. We are willing to ship potassium nitrate to anyone who orders it, even internationally; as long as customers understand they are responsible for explaining the purpose of the purchase to customs authorities. The alternative product for potassium nitrate is calcium nitrate.

 

It's $30 for international shipping up to 4 lbs: https://aquariumfertilizer.com/order-information/#shipping

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Kindanewtothis

After 19 hours using the phosphate remover, it's gone from 0.31 to 0.19

20210612_084236.jpg

20210612_084027.jpg

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rough eye

everything happens fast in this tank.

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Kindanewtothis
2 minutes ago, rough eye said:

everything happens fast in this tank.

What did I do now? Phosphate drop is too fast?

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rough eye
1 minute ago, Kindanewtothis said:

What did I do now? Phosphate drop is too fast?

nothing. i would have spent a week or two deciding how much of a problem it was and how to resolve it. 🙂

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Kindanewtothis
2 minutes ago, rough eye said:

nothing. i would have spent a week or two deciding how much of a problem it was and how to resolve it. 🙂

Haha ok. I just did not think I had a week or two to wait before I have to act.

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seabass
7 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Phosphate drop is too fast?

It's as to be expected...

5 hours ago, seabass said:

You'll soon see phosphate dropping quickly (even without phosphate reducing media).  And nitrate will likely bottom out as the bloom uses the available nutrients.

Like I said, the drop might be more due to cyano than the phosphate reducing pads.  And since the drop is very rapid, I would pull the media as it's just adding to the drop.

 

Keep a close eye on nitrate as well.  Bottomed out nutrient levels can cause problems with coral (and any photosynthetic life) health, as well as potential problems with dinos.

 

15 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

What did I do now?

You should focus on removing the organics in your tank to help control the cyano.  Also, monitor your nutrient levels (maybe even being prepared to sparingly dose nutrient if it becomes necessary).  Like I said, I'd remove the phosphate reducer (for now) and maybe add some activated carbon instead.

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Kindanewtothis
5 minutes ago, seabass said:

maybe add some activated carbon instead

There is also carbon in the filter but it's been there since the beginning of my 30 gallons. So I should replace it?

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seabass

Activated carbon can become exhausted after a couple of weeks.  It's certainly is exhausted after a month.

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Kindanewtothis

Did some shopping. Snails and hermit crabs (2 x scarlet 1 x halloween)

20210612_104628.jpg

20210612_104604.jpg

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Clown79
5 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

 

Still 50-50 on the lunar mode. Like I said I've put it back on but altough I enjoy seeing my think at night I'm not sure that just the lights in the room aren't enough to watch things at night. Plus, my corals don't fully close at night if I use the lunar mode.

You can control how long moonlighting is on for.

 

In nature, the moon is out just not all night.

 

I never ran mine all night. Only from 10pm to 12am, then darkness.

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Kindanewtothis
6 minutes ago, Clown79 said:

You can control how long moonlighting is on for.

 

In nature, the moon is out just not all night.

 

I never ran mine all night. Only from 10pm to 12am, then darkness.

Could you share your preset?

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Clown79
Just now, Kindanewtothis said:

Could you share your preset?

I don't have my tanks any more but mine was set for 3-5% from 10pm to 12am

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Kindanewtothis
2 hours ago, seabass said:

Activated carbon can become exhausted after a couple of weeks.  It's certainly is exhausted after a month.

I have some, I will replace it.

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Kindanewtothis
1 hour ago, Clown79 said:

I don't have my tanks any more but mine was set for 3-5% from 10pm to 12am

Ok thanks I changed it 

Screenshot_20210612-130306_myAI.jpg

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