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Kindanewtothis

Kinda's "Magnificent" 50 and what not to do...

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Clown79
5 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

It's been on the sandbed and wasn't opening. It's just 3-4 inches from the bottom and also the height then the other mushroom.

Not every mushroom is equal. For ex. 2 different ricordeas can require the total opposite needs. 

 

I've had mushrooms directly under light that loved it yet my orange or red mushrooms had to be put in shaded areas with the lowest light levels.

 

 

Eventually when they are unhappy enough, they let go to move. 

 

If it was recently moved, give it time. It can take weeks for corals to acclimate.

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Kindanewtothis
41 minutes ago, Tired said:

Less water changes, or more feeding, will raise nutrients. In your case, I would avoid doing water changes until the nitrate is higher, unless you see that your trace elements (calcium, magnesium, alkalinity) are low. You should also make sure you're feeding plenty- your fish should be fed at least once daily, and your LPS will appreciate being fed once a week. 

 

When the orange coral was open, did it look at all like this in shape? Ignore the color, this is probably wildly exaggerated, and just look at the shape. 

https://chaosaquaculture.com/product/xxl-violet-blasto/

 

Does that blurry green coral at the bottom of your pictures always look that color? It looks a bit bleached from these angles, but that could just be the photos.

It's hard to tell like this but I would say it did not look like it.

 

The lps was always like this, they were all like this in the guy's aquarium. What cause bleaching?

20210609_143929.jpg

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seabass
3 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Nitrate between 0 and 5

Phosphate 0.25

Nitrate of 5 is fine (between 5 and 10 is good), but undetectable nitrate can be a problem.  I definitely wouldn't overfeed to try to raise nutrients; but as Tired said, less or smaller water changes might cause them to go up a little.  Now that you have another fish, keeping nitrate detectable should be easier.  If maintaining nitrate is a problem going forward, consider dosing NeoNitro instead of overfeeding.

 

Phosphate of 0.25 is arguably too high.  Your target for phosphate should be between 0.03 and 0.10 (I'd say 0.05 is a pretty good target).  You don't want phosphate to become undetectable either.  If you don't have one, you should probably get a good low range phosphate test kit that can test levels this low.

 

Having high phosphate and low nitrate is a complicated problem.  There are a few types of phosphate reducing media, but you don't want to lower it too fast, you also have to make sure that it doesn't become undetectable.  Trying to lower phosphate via water changes will obviously lower nitrate as well (which might make it necessary to dose nitrate).  Although dosing nitrate might even increase the uptake of phosphate, as photosynthetic life uses both.

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Kindanewtothis
14 minutes ago, seabass said:

 

Phosphate of 0.25 is arguably too high.  Your target for phosphate should be between 0.03 and 0.10 (I'd say 0.05 is a pretty good target).  You don't want phosphate to become undetectable either.  If you don't have one, you should probably get a good low range phosphate test kit that can test levels this low.

0.25 is the first "step" in my test kit. So yeah a low range kit would be good.

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seabass

With it being high, I'd concentrate on getting it down to 0.10 for now.

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seabass

Let's assume the phosphate level is closer to 0.10 ppm for now.  If true, you shouldn't be using any phosphate removers.  Get a higher resolution, low range test kit and see where you're at right now.  When possible, I'd steer clear of phosphate removers (but they do have their place).  I believe you'd be far better off doing water changes and dosing nitrate (if needed).

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Clown79
47 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

To be honest it's more between 0 and 0.25 so it might be near 0.1 also... I need a better test.

 

Would that do? "Fluval 106/206 and 107/207 Phosphate Remover - 3 pack | DYNO.CA" https://dyno.ca/en/shop/6825-fluval-106206-and-107207-phosphate-remover-3-pack-.html?q=%2Fen%2Fboutique%2F6825-eliminateur-de-phosphate-fluval-106206-et-107207-paquet-de-3-.html

 

20210609_160327.jpg

This kit and the Api are pretty useless for reef tanks.

 

There is salifert but my favourite is the hanna ultra low.

 

Its expensive but no guessing the difference between  light blue, lighter blue, and lightest blue.

 

I love salifert but could never tell the difference in colour with the phos kit, hanna's digital test takes the guessing out, so much easier. 

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Kindanewtothis

Anyone knows if the seachem test kit would do? (Less expensive)

 

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000255RF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_7DRJQHZKA69V7MW7TTSE

 

Reefsupplies.ca is not a transactional website, you have to actually call them and pay by credit card over the phone.There is the hanna on amazon but it's expensive. I will get it if I have to but how about that seachem kit?

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PeterU
6 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Reefsupplies.ca is not a transactional website,

Check again, I had 2 orders from them last month using Visa Debit both done on the website. Other credit cards should be no different.

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Jakesaw

Great to see the pics of Royal Gramma having come out.  Looks like it's getting along with the tank mates.

 

 

 

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Kindanewtothis
22 minutes ago, PeterU said:

Check again, I had 2 orders from them last month using Visa Debit both done on the website. Other credit cards should be no different.

I looked too fast, thanks

17 minutes ago, Jakesaw said:

Great to see the pics of Royal Gramma having come out.  Looks like it's getting along with the tank mates.

 

 

 

Only to eat for a moment but he seems ok

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Kindanewtothis

Forget about the seachem kit question, I ordered the hanna one.

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Clown79
1 hour ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Anyone knows if the seachem test kit would do? (Less expensive)

 

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000255RF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_7DRJQHZKA69V7MW7TTSE

 

Reefsupplies.ca is not a transactional website, you have to actually call them and pay by credit card over the phone.There is the hanna on amazon but it's expensive. I will get it if I have to but how about that seachem kit?

Reefsupplies you don't have to call. You can order directly from their website. 

Never had 1 issue in 6 yrs ordering from them.

 

I'd get my orders in 2 days and I'm in Ontario. 

 

There is also aquariumdepot.ca

 

Everything on Amazon.ca for reefs is beyond over priced. 3, 4, 5 times the price. Highway robbery

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Kindanewtothis

Maximum alert!

 

 

20210610_081341.jpg

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seabass

It not being open isn't as concerning as the foot not being attached.

 

This might or might not be a problem.  Is the foot moving at all?

 

Check ammonia, salinity, temperature.  Is everything else going alright?

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Kindanewtothis

It moved and it seems to be attached to a rock near the sandbed.

20210610_085043.jpg

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seabass

That's good.  I wouldn't worry too much then.

 

It's relative frequent movement might be a sign that it's seeking an even better location (providing optimal food, light, and flow).  That said, these anemones are prone to roaming.  It might settle down on its own.  In fact, changing any of these factors might cause it to move more.

 

With a roaming anemone and angelfish, I'd be a little cautious of adding expensive corals.  Not that you can't still make this an attractive reef tank with coral.  Just don't be surprised if either or both take out something you like.

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Kindanewtothis

It looked much better where it was...

20210610_100911.jpg

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seabass

Haha... wait until it decides it prefers the back of your tank, so you can't even see it (or the clownfish which will follow it).

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Kindanewtothis

I found a snail on its "back" and it's not sticking to the glass. Is it dead?

20210610_103216.jpg

20210610_103518.jpg

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Kindanewtothis
14 minutes ago, seabass said:

Haha... wait until it decides it prefers the back of your tank, so you can't even see it (or the clownfish which will follow it).

The clowns stayed where the anemone used to be...

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seabass
8 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

I found a snail on its "back" and it's not sticking to the glass. Is it dead?

IDK, maybe.  But you can still see its operculum, so it hasn't been dead long (if at all).  You can pull it out and see if it smells.  If it does, definitely remove it.  Otherwise, give it a couple of days and see if it starts moving around again.  If it keeps on turning over on its back, then it's probably on its way out.

 

14 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

The clowns stayed where the anemone used to be...

They'll probably find the anemone soon.  They seem pretty attached to it.

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Kindanewtothis

Ok you might not like this one. The RG re-home in another rock. I did not like how my tank looked with the new rock so I took it out and now it's back in the 10 gallons.

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Kindanewtothis
1 hour ago, seabass said:

They'll probably find the anemone soon.  They seem pretty attached to it.

 

20210610_121916.jpg

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