Jump to content

Kinda's "Magnificent" 50 and what not to do...


Kindanewtothis

Recommended Posts

Kindanewtothis
34 minutes ago, seabass said:
  • 1ml should raise alkalinity by about 0.07 dKH
  • and two days of consumption is currently about 0.26 dKH
  • so you need to dose about 3.7ml every other day to replenish the consumed alkalinity (at the current rate of consumption)

Keep monitoring levels and adjust up or down accordingly.  Eventually, you should be able to predict the results (at which point you can test less frequently).

Sorry I wrote 2.5 but meant 3.5ml (I guess I should not be rounding numbers)

  • Like 1
Link to comment

A water change will only reduce nutrients by the percentage of water changed.  So a 10% water change will only reduce phosphate from 0.22 to 0.20 ppm (within the margin of error for most test kits).  It takes a fairly large water change to make a substantial difference.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Kindanewtothis
2 hours ago, seabass said:

A water change will only reduce nutrients by the percentage of water changed.  So a 10% water change will only reduce phosphate from 0.22 to 0.20 ppm (within the margin of error for most test kits).  It takes a fairly large water change to make a substantial difference.

I understand and you told me before but this time it was closer to a 20% water change but like you said there is the margin of error)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Kindanewtothis
On 12/18/2021 at 11:52 AM, Kindanewtothis said:

Got the YWG. It's really really tiny. Just arrived yesterday at the lfs. There was 5 of them. Took a bright one. It's acclimatizing right now.

Starting to think about moving the YWG from the Qt to the 50g.

 

It eats but the food has to come close. Once it will be in the 50g it will go under the rocks with the pistol shrimp, I would have to send food their way.

 

It's bigger but still very small.

20220124_161253.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Kindanewtothis

@seabass I got a question regarding Reef fusion 1 and 2, or any two parts dosing product. Do you have to use both? Calcium never really dropped so should I be using only alkalinity ? Do the 2 products "need" each other?

Link to comment

You don't need to use them both, or use them in equal amounts.  However (unless loss of alkalinity is due to precipitation), consumption of alkalinity comes along with consumption of calcium and even magnesium.  Alkalinity changes the most quickly, so you might not even immediately recognize the consumption of these other two elements.

 

On 1/8/2022 at 1:34 AM, seabass said:

...roughly 7ml (of Reef Fusion 2) should raise alkalinity about 0.5 dKH in your 50 gallon tank.  Likewise, 7ml (of Reef Fusion 1) should raise calcium 4 ppm in your 50 gallon tank.

So you can see that an equal amount of Reef Fusion 1 only raises calcium 4 ppm (hardly enough to be accurately detected on a test kit).  Keep testing for calcium and dose if necessary.  Calcium and magnesium stability isn't as important as stability of alkalinity, but you still want to maintain them within their recommended ranges.

Link to comment
Kindanewtothis
4 minutes ago, seabass said:

You don't need to use them both, or use them in equal amounts.  However (unless loss of alkalinity is due to precipitation), consumption of alkalinity comes along with consumption of calcium and even magnesium.  Alkalinity changes the most quickly, so you might not even immediately recognize the consumption of these other two elements.

 

So you can see that an equal amount of Reef Fusion 1 only raises calcium 4 ppm (hardly enough to be accurately detected on a test kit).  Keep testing for calcium and dose if necessary.  Calcium and magnesium stability isn't as important as stability of alkalinity, but you still want to maintain them within their recommended ranges.

Thanks for this.

Link to comment
Kindanewtothis

Life finds a way!!!

 

My not so looking good anymore frogspawn colony spawned a new head!

20220125_122040.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Kindanewtothis

Phosphate is still really high, it's like the phosphate remover pad did not much, went from .33 to .21 but that includes a 32 liters water change. The pad is still in the canister but now phosphate is back at .27.

 

So, what now?

 

Zoas are doing very well, mushrooms not so much. Hammers are allright. My torch is soso, not fully extented for a few days.

 

The dKH moved up and down in the last days/week. It's now at 8.4.

 

Fish are doing very well I think.

 

 

Link to comment
On 1/25/2022 at 11:22 AM, Kindanewtothis said:

Life finds a way!!!

 

My not so looking good anymore frogspawn colony spawned a new head!

 

They were just preserving energy to push out the new spawned head!

 

Nature !!!!

  • Like 1
  • Wow 1
Link to comment
Kindanewtothis

Should I wait at night to introduce the YWG in the 50g. Day or night I figure it will go quickly under the rocks.

Link to comment

I feel it's less stressful to introduce new fish during lights out.  Generally I'll just shut the display lights off for a couple of hours after I introduce them.  However, it's probably helpful if they can still see their new environment (so either some natural room light during the day, or with some room lights on if it's dark outside).

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Kindanewtothis

So the YWG will be transfered today. 

 

There is still life in the 10g that I want to maintain (pods, worms, bacterial life, coraline, etc). 

 

Anything I should do?

Link to comment
M. Tournesol
43 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

So the YWG will be transfered today. 

 

There is still life in the 10g that I want to maintain (pods, worms, bacterial life, coraline, etc). 

 

Anything I should do?

Feed some food every 2~3 days and don't forget to do some water change?

Not changing your phyto feeding and light schedule could also be a good idea .

  • Like 1
Link to comment
2 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Would my tank lamp be enough?

Possibly, as long as there is enough light spill over up top.

Link to comment
Kindanewtothis
10 hours ago, seabass said:

Possibly, as long as there is enough light spill over up top.

What else would I need in the refugium? Rocks for the chaeto to attach to?

Link to comment

Chaeto is best kept as a clump, with no rocks.  I wouldn't even use sand (to make cleaning the fuge easier).

 

Besides, chaeto doesn't really attach to rock.  It will basically stay in a ball and you will remove excess growth to export the nutrients and to maintain access to light and flow.

 

Chaeto also will break off and enter your display.  It's usually not that big of a deal, but expect it to happen.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Kindanewtothis
45 minutes ago, seabass said:

Chaeto is best kept as a clump, with no rocks.  I wouldn't even use sand (to make cleaning the fuge easier).

 

Besides, chaeto doesn't really attach to rock.  It will basically stay in a ball and you will remove excess growth to export the nutrients and to maintain access to light and flow.

 

Chaeto also will break off and enter your display.  It's usually not that big of a deal, but expect it to happen.

Thanks, so a hob refugium for my setup and tank actual parameter would be a good idea? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
6 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Thanks, so a hob refugium for my setup and tank actual parameter would be a good idea? 

IDK, maybe.  I see that you're having issues with high phosphate.  So a fuge might help with that.  You'll have to monitor nitrate as you could end up bottoming out nitrate.  Chaeto also relies on other trace elements (like other macroalgaes do).  You might end up needing to dose these elements with something like Brightwell Aquatics Chaeto GRO.

 

I also seem to recall reading about dinos congregating amongst chaeto.  However, I can't recall the details or if there was any correlation (between dinos and chaeto) at all.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Kindanewtothis
5 hours ago, seabass said:

You might end up needing to dose these elements with something like Brightwell Aquatics Chaeto GRO

I saw "chaeto booster" locally, I think it's similar. 

 

-First choose the hob fuge

-second find chaeto

-third get chaeto booster

 

If the light doesn't do (it doesn't glow much outside the tank), I'll get another one cheap

Link to comment
DevilDuck

I recently switched from grape calupura from chaeto.

It grows just as fast as chaeto, it will attached to rocks, and tangs will eat it, so it becomes another food source too.

 

Also consider carbon dosing or Red Sea NoPox for nutrient control as another option. 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recommended Discussions

×
×
  • Create New...