Kinda's Large Tank Adventure (LTA)

[Kindanewtothis]

2 hours ago, seabass said:

Does it look brown like it does in your 50 gallon tank, or is it reddish?

Kinda look the same... I know there was dinos in that tank at least on june 13rd to be exact (pictures below).

 

It just disappeared.

 

Also running lower whites on this tank for.some weeks now.

 

[seabass]

Do a dinos test on this tank.  Remember, it's easier to deal with dinos before they get too dense.

[Jakesaw]

21 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

The problem is that on the sand bed, the sand get sucked in with the dinos. The sand is heavy and falls out with the dinos... Maybe I need a better baster idk. It works on the rocks but not so well on the sand bed.

I'm dealing with dinos myself.  - Yuk

 

You can suck the sand out with a water siphon.  It sucks right out.  Once sand & water are in the bucket I'll let you figure out  how to get the water back in the tank.  via strain or whatever method.  

[Jakesaw]

13 minutes ago, seabass said:

Do a dinos test on this tank.  Remember, it's easier to deal with dinos before they get too dense.

Where were you a month ago... LOL

 

I let my entire back wall grow full of dino before I learned what it was. I just let it grow thinking it was a natural algae.  I saw my baby Royal Gramma eating some before he died.  Maybe that was a contributing factor to his early demise.  

 

Will never know.

[Kindanewtothis]

13 minutes ago, Jakesaw said:

I'm dealing with dinos myself.  - Yuk

 

You can suck the sand out with a water siphon.  It sucks right out.  Once sand & water are in the bucket I'll let you figure out  how to get the water back in the tank.  via strain or whatever method.  

Giving a week to the pods then that's what I'll do.

[Kindanewtothis]

I've change the light settings on the 10g a couple weeks ago (less white, less powerful). Maybe it's been keeping dinos in check?

[seabass]

25 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

I've change the light settings on the 10g a couple weeks ago (less white, less powerful). Maybe it's been keeping dinos in check?

I'm not really sure.  That's what you might do to reduce algae.  But like I said before, I'm actually trying to encourage algae.

 

Instead, if I had to guess, I might point to the high phosphate levels as why dinos might not be as bad as in your 50 gallon tank.

[Kindanewtothis]

34 minutes ago, seabass said:

Instead, if I had to guess, I might point to the high phosphate levels as why dinos might not be as bad as in your 50 gallon tank.

So I should have kept my phosphate high in the 50g? Knowing what we know now of course. Dosing phosphate in the 50g?

[seabass]

20 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

So I should have kept my phosphate high in the 50g? Knowing what we know now of course. Dosing phosphate in the 50g?

I don't believe there is an exact recipe for successfully treating dinos.  I feel that it has more to do with tipping the scales in your favor.

 

My current hypothesis (and I could very well be wrong), is that by supporting micro-fauna and algae, that dinos might start to lose the hold they have on your tank.  Couple that with removal of some sort (manual removal, micron filtration, or UV sterilization), and there's a chance that you might win the battle.

 

To try and answer your question.  You must have sufficient nutrients in order to support the competitors.  I've used 0.10ppm of phosphate as a minimum while treating dinos, but more isn't necessarily a problem.  You must maintain nitrate levels as well.

[Kindanewtothis]

15 minutes ago, seabass said:

nutrients in order to support the competitors.  I've used 0.10ppm of phosphate as a minimum while treating dinos, but more isn't necessarily a problem.  You must maintain nitrate levels as well.

My phosphate is around 0.10 - 0.12, How do I raise it?

 

Dosing nitrate every day.

[Kindanewtothis]

17 minutes ago, seabass said:

I don't believe there is an exact recipe for successfully treating dinos.  I feel that it has more to do with tipping the scales in your favor.

 

My current hypothesis (and I could very well be wrong), is that by supporting micro-fauna and algae, that dinos might start to lose the hold they have on your tank.  Couple that with removal of some sort (manual removal, micron filtration, or UV sterilization), and there's a chance that you might win the battle.

 

If you know the movie, chances are not good (think it was 1 to a million) 🙂

[seabass]

11 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

My phosphate is around 0.10 - 0.12, How do I raise it?

I'm not really sure what's available in Canada. @Clown79?  We use Brightwell NeoPhos here.  I actually purchased dry phosphate from https://aquariumfertilizer.com/  They will ship to Canada; but I'm not sure how expensive that might be.  The fertilizer itself is pretty inexpensive though.

[Kindanewtothis]

15 minutes ago, seabass said:

I'm not really sure what's available in Canada.  We use Brightwell NeoPhos here.  I actually purchased dry phosphate from https://aquariumfertilizer.com/  They will ship to Canada; but I'm not sure how expensive that might be.  The fertilizer itself is pretty inexpensive though.

It's available in Canada. So after lowering phosphate and would now volontary raise it? To what 0.30? 0.40? And why? Stimulate algae growth for competition ?

[Kindanewtothis]

Post deleted, I have misread.

[seabass]

2 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

It's available in Canada. So after lowering phosphate and would now volontary raise it? To what 0.30? 0.40? And why? Stimulate algae growth for competition ?

IMO, you'd have phosphate available to make sure that it doesn't drop below 0.10ppm.  I'm not really sure what the magic number for treating dinos is.  However, you don't want phosphate jumping all around (so stability should be one of your goals).  But since you asked, I'm going to say 0.15ppm sounds pretty good.

[Clown79]

3 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

My phosphate is around 0.10 - 0.12, How do I raise it?

 

Dosing nitrate every day.

Dosing phyto will lead to higher phos.thats all i did for phos.

 

I didn't notice a significant change until phos was around 0.14. 

 

Have you been seeing pods on the tank walls?

 

How much did you use to seed the tank? I used 26oz for 25g. 

[Kindanewtothis]

5 minutes ago, Clown79 said:

Have you been seeing pods on the tank walls?

Haven't seen anything yet.

 

6 minutes ago, Clown79 said:

How much did you use to seed the tank? I used 26oz for 25g

I used 48oz for 50g. 

[rough eye]

i would guess never changing water while cycling a tank should provide plenty of nitrates, and unlike many people here i cycled mine with lights on. and not just blue lights for corals. in this way by the time you ever add any animals you have nitrates up around 20 - 40 or higher.

[Jakesaw]

8 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Giving a week to the pods then that's what I'll do.

For sucking it off the sand, I had success removing the wide part.  I just put the tube in and sucked the top layer ( that had Dino ) of sand off - in small areas.  It hasn't grown back from where I removed it in about a week.  Still white sand.  I'll probably slowly add some new sand to replace what I took out. 

 

Was also able to use same tube to scrape off glass.  I just dragged the tube over glass and the Dino got sucked into bucket. 

 

I'm more of a passive low-tech reefer.  Trying to not let my tank run me.  Just riding out the bumps vs letting ti get to me.  Can't say I've got the most attractive tank but I'm learning at my own pace and my fish / crabs seem happy.

 

 

 

 

[blasterman]

There are different strains of dinos but all of my outbreaks were started by very low nitrate levels.

 

Easy enough...  sodium nitrate is cheap and potent.

 

The problem is raising nitrate doesn't make them just go away. Havent tried it myself but hearing a lot of good results trying vibrant.

[Kindanewtothis]

6 hours ago, Jakesaw said:

It hasn't grown back from where I removed it in about a week. 

You are lucky, it comes back in a day or two in my case.

[Kindanewtothis]

The 10g looks good this morning. Maybe it's because the lights just opened.

 

Can't do the shake test if there is nothing to collect 🙂

[seabass]

28 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

The 10g looks good this morning. Maybe it's because the lights just opened.

Yeah, give it time.

[Kindanewtothis]

Collected what kinda looks like dinos (no air bubbles).

 

Doing the shake test and I don't think these are dinos anymore. It doesn't react to the lights.

 

I'm 100% positive that there was dinos in it a month ago. It was exactly the same but instead of going worst and to the "hair" dinos phase it went away. I understand that it's still there but maybe there is more competition or it's the phosphate.

 

I'll order pods for this tank too.

[Kindanewtothis]

Just ordered 5 x 250 ml of pods (free shipping with 75$ purchase so...)

 

1 or 2 are going in the 10g.

 

The rest is for the 50g in a few weeks if needed.

 

https://canadaaquamarine.ca/products/podmix