Help with new tank set up

[Bamzam]

Hi,

My nano reef didn't survive the power outages, so looking to start fresh. I had an AIO and am switching to a drilled/sump setup and was hoping you guys could help me with a few questions please. The tank is a mr aqua 22 long, so 36x12x12. Sump is reef octo 15a, and return pump is a varios 2.

 

1) I am going to install a fiji 600 gph external overflow. Its set up as a herbie overflow so 1 main drain and 1 emergency pipe. I want to keep a trickle in the emergency pipe so that its silent, but I'm going to use a reef octo 15a sump that only has 1 drain input. Do I tee the two drains into a single drain before the sump? Or do I let my emergency drain empty into the skimmer area and bypass the filter socks? In my freshwater set up, a trickle on the emergency pipe is more like constant flow, so is that ok to keep it unfiltered?

2) Since the tank is so long at 36" I'm not sure how to drill the return. Should I do a return on the end facing long ways and then a nero 3 on the other end? Or 2 center returns and 2 wave makers on each end?

3) any recommended skimmers for this size tank?

 

Thanks in advance!

[debbeach13]

I have never had a sump so no advise. Sorry to hear about the old tank. Good luck with the new set up. The 22 long is a great size.

[Murphs_Reef]

For me I want to see what's coming out of the emergency drain. So would suggest separate pipes. Also if you have an emergency you want that redundancy to be available, if overflow pipe or the filter sock clogs you want a clear path out. My emergency drain bypasses the filter wool and goes into the skimmer area, for what the trickle is going to output it really doesn't matter in my view that any crap isn't being captured. 

 

I have the similar setup as described, Nero 3 cranked right up on the left back wall pointing forward and a return coming out of the central Weir pointing at the left hand wall so pushing water down to the Nero 3. It works fantastic, I have an 80 gal btw. 

[Bamzam]

Perfect, thanks for the input. I will plumb the emergency pipe into the skimmer area

[mcarroll]

13 hours ago, Bamzam said:

22 long

You only need a target flow rate of 2x-4x the display size in actual GPH to operate the sump gear.  That translates to only 44-88 GPH.  Even if you want to round up to 100 GPH, your current plan seems like overkill.

 

13 hours ago, Bamzam said:

Do I tee the two drains into a single drain before the sump? Or do I[...]

I don't think it matters a lot how you do the drains at this GPH rate...even a plain gravity drain would be bullet-proof.   So do what makes the most sense for your installation, or do what is the most simple option.

 

13 hours ago, Bamzam said:

Since the tank is so long at 36" I'm not sure how to drill the return.

Then don't.  Go over the rim with the return plumbing.  Keeps your flow situation somewhat flexible, or even removable if you would ever decide to do that.

 

IMO you'll want more directable/less "everywhere" flow from a powerhead in such a low, narrow tank....something more like a pair the classic Nanostreams from Tunze....either AC or DC models would be great.

 

 

[Murphs_Reef]

23 minutes ago, mcarroll said:

 

I don't think it matters a lot how you do the drains at this GPH rate...even a plain gravity drain would be bullet-proof.   So do what makes the most sense for your installation, or do what is the most simple option.

 

Dude your suggesting push the emergency into a T with the overflow.would be ok. Then what's the point in the emergency? That sock gets blocked up and the DT rises, at 5pm that's ok you can see it and react. At 5am you have a soggy floor?

Let me know exactly what I'm missing here pal?

[mcarroll]

5 hours ago, Murphych said:

what I'm missing

I'm not sure...in your hypothetical example it sounds like the sock was the problem.  So in that example I'd eliminate the sock...they are extra/unneeded generally speaking.

 

But then who designs a sock filter that can back up and flood your location?  That would be the root mistake.  If you're going to have a mechanical filter it has to be able to overflow (bypass) back into the system.  Even power filters work this way.

 

As I mentioned in my post, even a plain single-pipe gravity drain is practically bulletproof...so the fact that the OP's drain has two inlets is already a bonus beyond the actual need.  It's possible to be realistic with your design and not fatalistic.  In the final analysis we aren't up against our imaginations, we're up against reality....and in reality what, from a reef tank, is actually going to block a 1" gravity drain that can get through the grate on this drain:

Not even a dead, floating fish could block the whole thing – I think you'd be hard pressed to block it even on purpose.  But that is where a blockage would occur – not in the back compartment.

 

Or, leave the Tee out and run two pipes if your gut just says you should – listen to your gut.  I also said it doesn't matter much....because it doesn't.  

 

In my book KISS design rules.  Two or three drains pipes where a single one will do I can work but isn't KISS.  👍

 

Beginner Tip:  Keep your lights off of your drains to prevent algae growth on those teeth.

[Murphs_Reef]

6 hours ago, mcarroll said:

I'm not sure...in your hypothetical example it sounds like the sock was the problem.  So in that example I'd eliminate the sock...they are extra/unneeded generally speaking.

 

But then who designs a sock filter that can back up and flood your location?  That would be the root mistake.  If you're going to have a mechanical filter it has to be able to overflow (bypass) back into the system.  Even power filters work this way.

 

As I mentioned in my post, even a plain single-pipe gravity drain is practically bulletproof...so the fact that the OP's drain has two inlets is already a bonus beyond the actual need.  It's possible to be realistic with your design and not fatalistic.  In the final analysis we aren't up against our imaginations, we're up against reality....and in reality what, from a reef tank, is actually going to block a 1" gravity drain that can get through the grate on this drain:

Not even a dead, floating fish could block the whole thing – I think you'd be hard pressed to block it even on purpose.  But that is where a blockage would occur – not in the back compartment.

 

Or, leave the Tee out and run two pipes if your gut just says you should – listen to your gut.  I also said it doesn't matter much....because it doesn't.  

 

In my book KISS design rules.  Two or three drains pipes where a single one will do I can work but isn't KISS.  👍

 

Beginner Tip:  Keep your lights off of your drains to prevent algae growth on those teeth.

Nope.. it's an emergency drain. It's redundancy regardless of what intelligence you wrap around it . It is what is it. 

 

Loving your balls swinging real low there though:

"In my book KISS design rules" 👍🏼

 

[mcarroll]

7 hours ago, Murphych said:

Nope.. it's an emergency drain. It's redundancy regardless of what intelligence you wrap around it . It is what is it. 

 

Loving your balls swinging real low there though:

"In my book KISS design rules" 👍🏼

 

Um.  What?

[Murphs_Reef]

14 minutes ago, mcarroll said:

Um.  What?

Nevermind. In any case @Bamzam has a few views, so can make their own mind up on approach? 

[Bamzam]

Definitely appreciate different views types to consider. Thanks all