Bluefish + nanobox custom setup troubleshoot help

[xCry0x]

Hi all, looking for some feedback on how to approach troubleshooting this.

A few years ago I built a DIY retrofit for my tank with 4x nanobox pucks wired to a bluefish controller.

I realized the other day that one of the push connections had gotten exposed to water and the wiring had corroded.

It controls the blue channel for 2 of my pucks; I clipped the corroded wire and re-did the connector.

Now the channel appears to light up but even at full power it doesn't seem to be actually getting bright.

I took a look at the actual wiring to the pick and noticed 2 of the wires that I believe I have soldered to the blue channel on one puck seem to be blackened (Picture below). The picture also is at 100% channel power.

Before I embark on a trial & error toubleshooting for this. I'd love to see if any electrical experts have any thoughts on how to approach actually identifying the issue and fixing it.

I have a multimeter, but honestly, have no idea how to use it correctly 😅.

My guess is I'll need to remove the wire and re-solder a connection here. But wanted to get some thoughts before I spend the time taking this all apart.

Feedback appreciated!

Thanks.

[xCry0x]

Believe I figured this out -- I swapped my connectors to run the lights through a different driver and they work fine. So the driver for that specific channel likely died.

Ordered a new driver; hopefully that fixes it! 

 

[xCry0x]

Ok - So I am pretty frustrated and lost at this point.

Its a driver issue for sure.

I replaced the driver. Plugged in the light - magic, it worked.

Then I unplugged everything, put the driver board back in the little driver board box I have. Plugged it back in - audible POP. And then light is back to how it was before.

So I ordered another driver (two actually - so I have a backup).

Resoldered it all back up -- annd same thing. It worked. Then I shift the driver board. POP. doesn't work.

So now I have a few burnt fingers from my sloppy soldering skills and 2 dead drivers.

I'm totally at a loss for what is causing the driver to die.
 

===

1) It isn't the board -> light wiring. I can swap the channel connectors and the light that was on the channel with the bad driver works fine. I'v replaced both the barrel connectors for the channel, so I can't imagine anything is wrong with the wiring at this point.

2) I don't believe I am shorting anything via my solder connections.

The only thing I can think of is that the driver box is metal so maybe the bottom of the pins on the driver coming through the board are arcing and shorting it? But it doesn't make sense because the driver box is the one nano-box used to ship their lights with once upon a time. It has worked for years.

I'll probably try putting in my last driver this weekend and letting it sit for a bit outside the driver box. I'm thinking that the cause-effect here may be a coincidence and that it burns out simply from being on for a 20-30 seconds moreso than it burns out from being put in the box. If it works long term sitting outside the box. I'll rig something up. 

Thoughts/feedback welcome - kind of shooting in the dark with soldering ironed burned finger tips at this point!

[mitten_reef]

I’ve run into the sparking driver board this past wknd, every time it touches the T5 ballast.  Luckily nothing shorted or popped with my hybrid build. 
 

I recall with one of my nanobox fixtures, the driver board came screwed into one of the stand-off post inside the driver box. So maybe you need to keep it elevated and not touching the box itself like you suspected. Or find some none conducting material to line the box with?

[xCry0x]

5 minutes ago, mitten_reef said:

So maybe you need to keep it elevated and not touching the box itself like you suspected. Or find some none conducting material to line the box with?

Maybe. I think the best test will be to put it back together and keep the board out of the box.

Just seems really weird that it would be in a box that is at risk of causing shorts. I'm pretty sure all the other drivers effectively have their pins touching the box also.

My side concern now is also just destroying the board from repeat desoldering.

I'm running this as a retrofit in a Red Sea Max 250 -- so running 4 nanobox pucks on 4 channels. Wondering if I can survive with my 2x 36" t5 HO bulbs + just the blues and 1 white channel.

Quickly becoming a headache and I may end up just shopping for a new/used fixture over the next few months.

I hate being unable to solve a problem though, that is what is driving me the most crazy right now!! 😅

[Reefkid88]

I know in all of Dave's driver boxes,he had like plastic spacers on the screws to stop them from shorting out. I eventually lost all of mine lol seeming I can never stop touching anything 🤷‍♂️. 

 

 Also,Coralux.net has replacement boards for the driver but they are a tad longer. So it may not got in the driver box. I know my 3up ldd board is about 3/16" too long on either side for the end-caps to go on the driver enclosure. 

[Matteo]

I feel like the bottom of your driver board is touching something and making contact for sure once put back in the box.