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Has anyone modified a nano ATO with a peristaltic pump?


chaostactics

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This would be a bad idea - your ATO is pumping gallons of water per week and the lifespan of a small integrated peristaltic pump head is only around 10-20 gallons. Even in my 20g tank, I'd need to replace the head every month.

 

There are bigger peristaltic pumps rated for constant duty and their lifespans are much, much longer but they are also much more expensive. Just use a regular pump for your ATO.

 

If you want to use a non-DC pump for your ATO that has a regular outlet plug, AutoAqua makes a breakout AC box specifically to work with their ATOs for $30.

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5 hours ago, jservedio said:

This would be a bad idea - your ATO is pumping gallons of water per week and the lifespan of a small integrated peristaltic pump head is only around 10-20 gallons. Even in my 20g tank, I'd need to replace the head every month.

 

There are bigger peristaltic pumps rated for constant duty and their lifespans are much, much longer but they are also much more expensive. Just use a regular pump for your ATO.

 

If you want to use a non-DC pump for your ATO that has a regular outlet plug, AutoAqua makes a breakout AC box specifically to work with their ATOs for $30.

My deal is I want a slower flow pump and one more level of redundancy against back siphon. Mainly the latter. It's going to be damn near impossible to have the effluent if the ato vessel to end above water in the display tank. 

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1 hour ago, chaostactics said:

My deal is I want a slower flow pump and one more level of redundancy against back siphon. Mainly the latter. It's going to be damn near impossible to have the effluent if the ato vessel to end above water in the display tank. 

Shouldn’t your ato sensor and discharge be where your water level is lowest, in most case this would be the return pump chamber. Or are you running a HOB filtration system with ato and refill in the main display?

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4 hours ago, chaostactics said:

My deal is I want a slower flow pump and one more level of redundancy against back siphon. Mainly the latter. It's going to be damn near impossible to have the effluent if the ato vessel to end above water in the display tank. 

You can slow the pump down with a needle or ball valve (they make tiny valves for even tube as small as airline) and if you are worried about back flow, either make an anti-siphon (air gap), or simply add a one-way valve. A small valve to control flow is going to be under $10 and the oms way valve would be even cheaper. If it's mounted to your DT, you should have no problem making an air gap.

 

If you really, really want a peristaltic pump that'll function as an ATO and not need constant replacement, BRS sells one made for higher volume but it's about $80 and you'd need the AC breakout for another $30.

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3 hours ago, mitten_reef said:

Shouldn’t your ato sensor and discharge be where your water level is lowest, in most case this would be the return pump chamber. Or are you running a HOB filtration system with ato and refill in the main display?

Even if it's on the DT, it's trivial to prevent back flow by simply mounting the tube 1/8" above the DT water level or just throw a one way valve on and call it a day.

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19 hours ago, mitten_reef said:

Shouldn’t your ato sensor and discharge be where your water level is lowest, in most case this would be the return pump chamber. Or are you running a HOB filtration system with ato and refill in the main display?

It's a Fluval Spec V/Evo so the water drop for the rear chamber is minimal. Once you bring the hose over the rim it's going to end up under water pretty quick. 

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16 hours ago, jservedio said:

Even if it's on the DT, it's trivial to prevent back flow by simply mounting the tube 1/8" above the DT water level or just throw a one way valve on and call it a day.

It is as long as the pump doesn't overshoot and add too much water. It's a 5 gallon AIO so as little as a few ounces could potentially raise the rear chamber water level significantly

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On 9/18/2020 at 5:02 PM, chaostactics said:

My deal is I want a slower flow pump and one more level of redundancy against back siphon. Mainly the latter. It's going to be damn near impossible to have the effluent if the ato vessel to end above water in the display tank. 

Slower can be done with a valve....how fast is the current pump working?

 

The only reliable way to prevent a catastrophic back-siphon of tank water is with an air gap between the water line and the ATO tube.  All that means is that the ATO tube CANNOT be underwater in the tank under ANY circumstance. 

 

Otherwise a simple check valve should do the trick to prevent the ATO line from draining in-between cycles...and the presence of the ATO sensor should mean that even if the line clears it shouldn't really matter – the pump will run until the right tank level is reached.  

 

Replacing the pump seems like it should be unnecessary if the original is still working.  👍

 

21 hours ago, chaostactics said:

Once you bring the hose over the rim it's going to end up under water pretty quick.

This scenario is what you need to avoid.  Make sure there's an air gap FOR SURE.  (I wouldn't trust a check valve to prevent flooding in this scenario...it'll work every day up until it doesn't.)

Edited by mcarroll
Rearranged one idea.
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The air gap can be a part of the ATO delivery tubing itself, BTW, if it's really impossible to avoid submerging it.  

 

If necessary, drill one or more holes in the ATO line right at water level.  

 

The hole will jet water out when the ATO runs if the air gap hole you make is above the normal water level.  But you don't want it below the normal water level either, or you've enabled some degree of back-siphoning.

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