Reefer-begginer Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 Im looking to see which of the products would be best to treat ich/velvet/brook/alymodium Current options I have ( on hand ) are macryn, macryn-2, coppersafe, and kordon rid-ich ( the non herbal one ). As they all say they contain the same ingredients just different doses in each, i want to know you guys opinion on each of these or which i should just start dosing in a QT for my current ich/velvet. And my 36g issue of Alymodium on my clownfish Quote Link to comment
Tamberav Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 55 minutes ago, Reefer-begginer said: Im looking to see which of the products would be best to treat ich/velvet/brook/alymodium Current options I have ( on hand ) are macryn, macryn-2, coppersafe, and kordon rid-ich ( the non herbal one ). As they all say they contain the same ingredients just different doses in each, i want to know you guys opinion on each of these or which i should just start dosing in a QT for my current ich/velvet. And my 36g issue of Alymodium on my clownfish All those meds are different... Macryn/Maracyn 2 is antibiotics Rid-ich is formalin and malachine green Coppersafe is chelated copper Out of this list, I would use copper but the dosing instructions on coppersafe is wrong. You need a high range copper hannah checker. Otherwise you risk underdosing and the parasite surviving or overdosing and killing your fish. My fav method to treat is tank transfer with peroxide but it takes a lot of water and time/space. 2 Quote Link to comment
Reefer-begginer Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 40 minutes ago, Tamberav said: All those meds are different... Macryn/Maracyn 2 is antibiotics Rid-ich is formalin and malachine green Coppersafe is chelated copper Out of this list, I would use copper but the dosing instructions on coppersafe is wrong. You need a high range copper hannah checker. Otherwise you risk underdosing and the parasite surviving or overdosing and killing your fish. My fav method to treat is tank transfer with peroxide but it takes a lot of water and time/space. I have a 125g tank with ich/velvet would peroxide work in killing/treating that as well as alymodium? Quote Link to comment
Tamberav Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 19 minutes ago, Reefer-begginer said: I have a 125g tank with ich/velvet would peroxide work in killing/treating that as well as alymodium? There is some experiment dosing peroxide into a DT but a large UV makes the peroxide more effective. You also need a doser as it needs to be done frequently (not just a daily thing). I would pull all the fish out and tank transfer them with peroxide dips and go fallow. It's been shown to be pretty effective. You need two of everything and lots of salt/water. https://humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/hybrid-ttm-to-treat-all-parasites.87/ I wouldn't put copper in a tank with live rock and such, the fish should be removed to a QT tank if you go the copper route. The fact that it is a huge pain in the butt to pull fish and treat is why some people try so hard to keep disease out in the first place. 2 Quote Link to comment
Reefer-begginer Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 I have all my fish in my 125g in a QT. But can't do that for my 36g as the QT is copper based rn with malchite in it. Plus I'm pretty sure the QT is full, it has a foxface and coral beauty in it ( 20g ) 23 minutes ago, Tamberav said: There is some experiment dosing peroxide into a DT but a large UV makes the peroxide more effective. You also need a doser as it needs to be done frequently (not just a daily thing). I would pull all the fish out and tank transfer them with peroxide dips and go fallow. It's been shown to be pretty effective. You need two of everything and lots of salt/water. https://humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/hybrid-ttm-to-treat-all-parasites.87/ I wouldn't put copper in a tank with live rock and such, the fish should be removed to a QT tank if you go the copper route. The fact that it is a huge pain in the butt to pull fish and treat is why some people try so hard to keep disease out in the first place. Im also about to buy a 125g Internal UV sterilizer + powerhead to help with my sumps lack of flow towards my return 1 Quote Link to comment
Humblefish Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 Copper Power (or Coppersafe if that's all you have access to) would be my treatment of choice for your specific situation (velvet), but always verify the Cu reading using the Hanna copper colorimeter. Testing daily would be ideal to ensure the copper level remains therapeutic at all times. 1 Quote Link to comment
Reefer-begginer Posted September 4, 2020 Author Share Posted September 4, 2020 On 9/1/2020 at 1:38 PM, Humblefish said: Copper Power (or Coppersafe if that's all you have access to) would be my treatment of choice for your specific situation (velvet), but always verify the Cu reading using the Hanna copper colorimeter. Testing daily would be ideal to ensure the copper level remains therapeutic at all times. I have a Sera test kit that has a Copper test, but I think it tests ionic not chelated. Would there be a copper test kit I could use that tests chelated? Quote Link to comment
Humblefish Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 39 minutes ago, Reefer-begginer said: I have a Sera test kit that has a Copper test, but I think it tests ionic not chelated. Would there be a copper test kit I could use that tests chelated? API does a decent job, but this Hanna checker is by far more accurate/easier to read: https://www.hannainst.com/hi702-copper-hr.html Quote Link to comment
mcarroll Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 On 9/1/2020 at 1:34 PM, Reefer-begginer said: Im also about to buy a 125g Internal UV sterilizer + powerhead to help with my sumps lack of flow towards my return If you are targeting a current outbreak with the UV, keep the filter unit and powerhead in the main tank. It will be more effective. Which filter and pump are you looking at? If you want to keep it running after the outbreak has passed, then you could keep it in the sump. (You might want to take it out completely once the outbreak has passed though.) Quote Link to comment
Reefer-begginer Posted September 5, 2020 Author Share Posted September 5, 2020 42 minutes ago, mcarroll said: If you are targeting a current outbreak with the UV, keep the filter unit and powerhead in the main tank. It will be more effective. Which filter and pump are you looking at? If you want to keep it running after the outbreak has passed, then you could keep it in the sump. (You might want to take it out completely once the outbreak has passed though.) I was gonna get the SP-UV 13 AquaTop filter for 125g tanks Quote Link to comment
mcarroll Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 Interesting find! You'll want to run it on the lowest flow setting. I'd be tempted to run two of them. Quote Link to comment
Reefer-begginer Posted September 6, 2020 Author Share Posted September 6, 2020 11 hours ago, mcarroll said: Interesting find! You'll want to run it on the lowest flow setting. I'd be tempted to run two of them. I used to run 1 on my 75g freshwater tank, with amazing results in the no parasitic infections and little algae ( i did have 3 plecos as well so my tank was always clean ), but I wouldn't seen why it wouldn't do the same on a 125 saltwater tank 1 Quote Link to comment
mcarroll Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 Size/flow recommendations do tend to be different for saltwater and freshwater....but the flow change (lower) should deal with that. Two units would obviously double the number of infectious critters potentially being zapped tho...which is literally twice as good for the fish you're trying to protect. That's why I'd be tempted to run two....not because one unit "wouldn't work". Quote Link to comment
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