Removing MP10 dry-side cover?

[ps2cho]

I have an MP10 that stopped working...Its the dry side as I had a spare driver to test.

 

I'm trying to get the cover off on the power-cord side and the glue is extremely hard.

 

Anybody have any tips here? Got nothing to lose to take it apart and see if the wiring is frayed or something.

[NoOneLikesADryTang]

It's a really strong sticker on it, that can be pried off. Under that are three screws, that you'll need to remove. 

 

On the other side (the side that touches the outside of the tank glass) will also have three screws. You'll need to peel off the spacer, to expose those screws. They're what hold the motor inside the housing. 

 

Good luck! 

[Break]

Here's a handy video on disassembly of a VorTech MP10. Not sure if it's your exact model, but might be helpful!

[ps2cho]

15 hours ago, NoOneLikesADryTang said:

It's a really strong sticker on it, that can be pried off. Under that are three screws, that you'll need to remove. 

 

On the other side (the side that touches the outside of the tank glass) will also have three screws. You'll need to peel off the spacer, to expose those screws. They're what hold the motor inside the housing. 

 

Good luck! 

The side that touches the tank doesn’t have any screws- it’s a 2011 model... I peeled back the thick rubber piece and nothing on that side. I only had 3. Small length screws under the eco tech sticker.

 

Any ideas if the early models only had shorter screws on one end?

 

 

[jcreefer]

On the sticker side, there are 3 screws.  On the rubber side, there should be one Allen screw IIRC.

[ps2cho]

5 hours ago, jcreefer said:

On the sticker side, there are 3 screws.  On the rubber side, there should be one Allen screw IIRC.

The rubber side has nothing, just took the whole piece off. I'm just left with a clean plastic cover. I only have 3 screws on the sticker side and thats it...

 

I watched the video above and that is the later models...mine is the smoother dryside.

I believe I have a broken wire and that's why its not turning on, but I need to remove it. I could just throw it away, but I sort of feel I should try!

[jcreefer]

If you have the pre-QD version, you need to take the plastic cap beneath the rubber: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1X4R6a7Xe0

 

[NoOneLikesADryTang]

7 hours ago, ps2cho said:

The side that touches the tank doesn’t have any screws- it’s a 2011 model... I peeled back the thick rubber piece and nothing on that side. I only had 3. Small length screws under the eco tech sticker.

 

Any ideas if the early models only had shorter screws on one end?

 

 

The older versions you have to pry off the plastic piece on the front, and it'll expose it, and you can drop the motor out. From there, you'll need an allen wrench to open the motor assembly, on the front and I believe a flat head on the back, along with another set of three smaller phillips screws. 

[ps2cho]

2 hours ago, NoOneLikesADryTang said:

The older versions you have to pry off the plastic piece on the front, and it'll expose it, and you can drop the motor out. From there, you'll need an allen wrench to open the motor assembly, on the front and I believe a flat head on the back, along with another set of three smaller phillips screws. 

That's where I am stuck at, it feels like its concrete'd to the front!

Do I need to cut into the edge with a knife all the way around? Prying doesn't even seem to be moving it whatsoever. I'm not even getting any edges moving at all.

[jcreefer]

Yes, the plastic cap is glued to the outter shell.  You will need to razor around the edge and gently pry the cap open.

[ps2cho]

1 hour ago, jcreefer said:

Yes, the plastic cap is glued to the outter shell.  You will need to razor around the edge and gently pry the cap open.

Thanks, I'll try a razor carefully and see if I can get the glue off.

[jcreefer]

Once you get the cap off, there is a allen bolt that holds the metal cap to the bearing assembly