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Cdow1991

Nanobox

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Cdow1991

Hi everyone. Has anyone had any contact with Dave from nanobox? My led driver board failed and I’ve been trying to contact him for a while now. I don’t know if he was affected by the covid shutdowns. Thank you!

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Fryguy0201

I was in contact with him to buy a light about a month ago and from what I understand he had problems with a couple of his supplies so he has paused production for the time being. I would recommend emailing him and giving him a day or two and email again if he doesn't respond. He will respond eventually, probably just has a lot going on like the rest of us.

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kups

I've been trying to reach him for weeks 😞

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Cdow1991

Same 

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Cdow1991

Does anyone have a phone number I can reach him at?

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mitten_reef

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kups

Hope he's okay.  Responses have been a little delayed in the past but his service was always top notch overall.

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mitten_reef
20 minutes ago, kups said:

Hope he's okay.  Responses have been a little delayed in the past but his service was always top notch overall.

^ what he says.

 

In case you don't have his email: it's david@nanoboxreef.com (note, it's not 'dave')

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kups

Does anyone know of a simple solution if I'm just missing the blues?  Any good blue lights I can run alongside my nanobox retro?  

Alternatively may must rip out the nanobox and put something else in.

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Tamberav
On 6/6/2020 at 4:44 PM, kups said:

Does anyone know of a simple solution if I'm just missing the blues?  Any good blue lights I can run alongside my nanobox retro?  

Alternatively may must rip out the nanobox and put something else in.

 

It is in a biocube?

 

Sending you a PM

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Tamberav
On 6/3/2020 at 11:53 AM, Cdow1991 said:

Does anyone have a phone number I can reach him at?

You too

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Cdow1991

I dont

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Reefkid88

Dave has stopped making lights,but parts are available on his site. 

 

 But Coralux.net has the board you need. 

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jcreefer
On 6/26/2020 at 2:50 PM, Reefkid88 said:

Dave has stopped making lights,but parts are available on his site. 

 

 But Coralux.net has the board you need. 

Thanks for the link!!! I paid $90 for my replacement driver board (+ 6 drivers). For someone who’s not well versed in electronics, hoe difficult is it to build the driver board?  (Does it require soldering?) Any help is appreciated! I’m just planning ahead in case I can’t get another replacement from Dave.

 

Thanks

Jeff

 

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Tamberav
20 minutes ago, jcreefer said:

Thanks for the link!!! I paid $90 for my replacement driver board (+ 6 drivers). For someone who’s not well versed in electronics, hoe difficult is it to build the driver board?  (Does it require soldering?) Any help is appreciated! I’m just planning ahead in case I can’t get another replacement from Dave.

 

Thanks

Jeff

 

 

Yes, it requires soldering. I built one with no experience or idea of what I was doing. I used YouTube videos on how-to-solder electronics and copied the layout of my nano-box. 

 

The super cheap $10 chinese soldering iron's are difficult to use, I ended up getting a better one. Be sure to do it in a well ventilated area, the fumes from the solder are toxic. I ended up doing mine right next to a open door with a fan blowing it out. 

 

They make little DIP socket connectors you can solder on which makes the LLD drivers easily removable/swap-able should one ever go bad again, it would not require soldering. The only thing is the metal casing that holds the drivers no longer closes all the way with those in as they add a little bulk. I kind of wish Dave would have used these to make everything easy to replace and made the casing a bit bigger to compensate. They are like 50 cents each. 

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jcreefer
7 hours ago, Tamberav said:

They make little DIP socket connectors you can solder on which makes the LLD drivers easily removable/swap-able should one ever go bad again, it would not require soldering. The only thing is the metal casing that holds the drivers no longer closes all the way with those in as they add a little bulk. I kind of wish Dave would have used these to make everything easy to replace and made the casing a bit bigger to compensate. They are like 50 cents each. 


I saw the DIP socket connectors on the Coralux website.  May have to do that when the time come around.  I’ve soldered before, just wasn’t sure if someone who’s not soldered frequently can tackle the job.  Good thing I kept the old driver board so I can look at it when I use it as a template.


 

Thanks!

Jeff

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Cdow1991

I just ordered a board from nanobox for 30 bucks. I got to figure out what I need for the terminals. I’m gunna just order the same drivers

image.jpg

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Cdow1991

Unless I can just reuse The drivers and the terminals. Probably not

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Tamberav
2 hours ago, Cdow1991 said:

I just ordered a board from nanobox for 30 bucks. I got to figure out what I need for the terminals. I’m gunna just order the same drivers

image.jpg

Mine arrived with terminals attached so you might want to wait and see. It says it doesn't come with them but mine did. Maybe he had some around already attached.

 

Re-using them is not worth it...I found it difficult to remove the old solder.

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Reefkid88
3 hours ago, Cdow1991 said:

Unless I can just reuse The drivers and the terminals. Probably not

 

 Idk if you emailed me the pic or not,but have you used a multimeter to see if your are getting power to each driver ? Made sure there was no bare wire touching anything,or made sure everything was securely tightened down ?  

 

 Is there any burn marks anywhere on the board ? Also,what exactly happened ? Was the light brand new,used ect ? 

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Reefkid88
7 hours ago, Tamberav said:

 

Yes, it requires soldering. I built one with no experience or idea of what I was doing. I used YouTube videos on how-to-solder electronics and copied the layout of my nano-box. 

 

The super cheap $10 chinese soldering iron's are difficult to use, I ended up getting a better one. Be sure to do it in a well ventilated area, the fumes from the solder are toxic. I ended up doing mine right next to a open door with a fan blowing it out. 

 

They make little DIP socket connectors you can solder on which makes the LLD drivers easily removable/swap-able should one ever go bad again, it would not require soldering. The only thing is the metal casing that holds the drivers no longer closes all the way with those in as they add a little bulk. I kind of wish Dave would have used these to make everything easy to replace and made the casing a bit bigger to compensate. They are like 50 cents each. 

 

 Honestly,I think he relied more so on people sending the light back in for service instead of making this modular in a sense so people could fix things themselves. 

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Cdow1991
6 minutes ago, Reefkid88 said:

 

 Idk if you emailed me the pic or not,but have you used a multimeter to see if your are getting power to each driver ? Made sure there was no bare wire touching anything,or made sure everything was securely tightened down ?  

 

 Is there any burn marks anywhere on the board ? Also,what exactly happened ? Was the light brand new,used ect ? 

The light was brand new and the board started arcing. I think salt creep made it short out. I ordered the exact board and I found the drivers on line. I’m just not sure about the terminals. I m ow they are 3.5 mm but does anyone know what ones they are?

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Reefkid88

How close was it to the water ?! Things like have should never be near water,and I have NEVER had an issue like that. 

 

 Coralux (which I linked you to in the pm) had the boards with terminals,drivers,dip sockets all on their site. 

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Cdow1991

It was in my hood. I have a Red Sea max c250. It’s a retro kit that was in my hood

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Cdow1991

Ok so I have a question. How would I wire this? The terminals are different. I have the green nanobox board now. How do I wire the coralux board

718B4553-A65B-4722-A8EA-C7156B3AFAC1.png

0BAFFFCF-8672-48CB-89C8-2360EE80786F.png

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