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mynewtank

Wrong fish ?

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mynewtank
22 minutes ago, Tamberav said:

Be sure to add a mesh lid if your tank does not have one. There are ways to make DIY mesh lids that can be found.

 

There are also many fish that are appropriate for a 35g but you want to add them slowly over time as the tank will adjust to each addition.

 

A lid is recommended for most of them! Any fish can jump out but some will always find the floor without a lid.

 

Here are a few to get you started on ideas but definitely work on your lighting and testing first even though fish are more exciting to buy.

 

Tailspot Blenny

Royal Gramma

Yellow watchmen goby (pairs with a pistol shrimp)

Pink streak wrasse

 

I would say 5 nano-sized fish is probably a comfortable number for this size tank.

 

I agree with others that two AI primes are a popular choice. You will need to buy a light mount for it too . They make a flex arm and a metal arm that both attach to the tank depending what style you like.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I just went and put two lights into the shopping cart but the fixtures my be a problem because of space.  Is there this kind of lighting in a light bar or something I can put a few inches over the top of the tank?

 

I found something called OR 120/90/60 Reef Bar LED Light (Orphec)?

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Clown79
12 minutes ago, mynewtank said:

I just went and put two lights into the shopping cart but the fixtures my be a problem because of space.  Is there this kind of lighting in a light bar or something I can put a few inches over the top of the tank?

 

I found something called OR 120/90/60 Reef Bar LED Light (Orphec)?

Look into the current orbit marine.

 

Orphek makes decent lights but not sure which one you are looking at.

 

What space issue is the dilemma? We might be able to help with that.

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mynewtank
14 minutes ago, Clown79 said:

Look into the current orbit marine.

 

Orphek makes decent lights but not sure which one you are looking at.

 

What space issue is the dilemma? We might be able to help with that.

I just ordered two ai prime lights and the mounting brackets.  I was worried that there wouldn't be enough room above the tank because of some artwork I have but they're only 12 inches.  

 

This has been a good day.

 

Thank you all very much.  

 

Stay tuned!

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Tamberav
1 hour ago, mynewtank said:

I just ordered two ai prime lights and the mounting brackets.  I was worried that there wouldn't be enough room above the tank because of some artwork I have but they're only 12 inches.  

 

This has been a good day.

 

Thank you all very much.  

 

Stay tuned!

Sounds good...just do you know corals and nems need to be acclimated to a new light .. especially since these will be a lot more powerful. I believe there is an acclimation mode for this...so you want it to start low and ramp up over a period of weeks since this is a brand new light to all the existing livestock.

 

When you buy new corals... put them in the sand bed to the side then slowly move them up to their place over a week or two. 

 

Also it may be overwhelming just how much you can change each color of the light but there are a lot of popular settings out there you can find or people can share which makes it easier.

 

 

 

 

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mynewtank
14 hours ago, Tamberav said:

Sounds good...just do you know corals and nems need to be acclimated to a new light .. especially since these will be a lot more powerful. I believe there is an acclimation mode for this...so you want it to start low and ramp up over a period of weeks since this is a brand new light to all the existing livestock.

 

When you buy new corals... put them in the sand bed to the side then slowly move them up to their place over a week or two. 

 

Also it may be overwhelming just how much you can change each color of the light but there are a lot of popular settings out there you can find or people can share which makes it easier.

 

 

 

 

The hammer coral hasn't looked well since I bought him.  Do you think I should move him now?  And to be clear, I should put him standing up on the side of the tank in the sand or on his side in the sand?

 

One more thing - I added RO to my top off tank last night, when the guy from the store came to pick up the tang he said there was too much water in the sump and he adjusted something and said it's "fine now" and left ---- so I texted him and asked him what he did.  He said, "I composed the water sensor and with it I put the skimmer" .No idea what that means   I then asked him if I shouldn't have added so much water to the top off tank and he never answered.   

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Tamberav

It should be standing up so the polyps face the light but at a angle is okay too... you just wont want the polyps rubbing on the sand or rock. I usually mount it to a rock or to a large frag tile disc so a fish or snail can not push it over. It should be getting some flow so the polyps move around a bit. 

 

Can you get a photo of the hammer coral?

And can you get a photo of your auto top off system?

 

I am not sure what he meant either but I suppose if they show you how to do everything, they will be out of a job 😉 Maybe the sensor was too low or to high, skimmers work best when the water is a certain height but how much RO you add to the top off tank shouldn't effect it. 

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mynewtank
4 hours ago, Tamberav said:

It should be standing up so the polyps face the light but at a angle is okay too... you just wont want the polyps rubbing on the sand or rock. I usually mount it to a rock or to a large frag tile disc so a fish or snail can not push it over. It should be getting some flow so the polyps move around a bit. 

 

Can you get a photo of the hammer coral?

And can you get a photo of your auto top off system?

 

I am not sure what he meant either but I suppose if they show you how to do everything, they will be out of a job 😉 Maybe the sensor was too low or to high, skimmers work best when the water is a certain height but how much RO you add to the top off tank shouldn't effect it. 

 

4 hours ago, Tamberav said:

It should be standing up so the polyps face the light but at a angle is okay too... you just wont want the polyps rubbing on the sand or rock. I usually mount it to a rock or to a large frag tile disc so a fish or snail can not push it over. It should be getting some flow so the polyps move around a bit. 

 

Can you get a photo of the hammer coral?

And can you get a photo of your auto top off system?

 

I am not sure what he meant either but I suppose if they show you how to do everything, they will be out of a job 😉 Maybe the sensor was too low or to high, skimmers work best when the water is a certain height but how much RO you add to the top off tank shouldn't effect it. 

Okay. So this is the hammer coral. I glued him to a rock about mid-tank and he's facing the front of the tank.  Kind of on a slant. The power head is way up on the top right of the tank.  The other two picture are of the top off tank.  Also, it's weird. I filled it with RO yesterday and it was nearly full and (I'm not home) now it's midway.  He said it was the sump that was too full.  

 

The last picture is my tank --- minus the tang ---- I had them pick the poor guy up today.  They took him back to the store.

 

**** I added a picture of the pump ?  and the skimmer?  I'm embarrassed to say I don't really know what's going on down there.

 

And you're right.  When I learn how to do this, those guys are out of a job.

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mipster

Does your auto top off reservoir have a lid? It looks like the top is cut off and open. That could account for the rapid reduction in how much water is in there. With my resevoir, I drilled a hole large enough to snake the hose and power line to the pump through and then I screw the lid shut, evaporation is almost impossible in there so any water that leaves the canister is just going into my tank.

 

1241046291_WhatsAppImage2020-05-26at8_41_40PM.thumb.jpeg.c7653c5cc2ea6376339eb4e09b927e4b.jpeg

I see you've got a Tunze Auto Top Off which is a good sensor but I can't tell if it's the one with the optic sensor or just the float valve. If just the float valve, make sure you keep it clean so that the sensor can move without salt creep getting in the way. 

 

Also I see you have a metal hose clamp on your return line, I've read that isn't not good to use those submerged into the water. Look for something like these: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ratchet-clamp-for-tubing-1-6684828461f4e5bda1e2a33b5e0db6d3.html

 

How often do you have to empty that skimmer cup? Your skimmate looks very watery. Also what is that filter sock on the left for? It doesn't look like you have a drain line filtering into it so I can't tell what it is there for.

 

I wouldn't let that LFS back anymore really. The main thing you need to learn first is how to properly mix you own salt water and how to do a water change. Lucky for you StevieT (inventor and owner of InTank) has created great how to guide on just how to do that. How to do a water change Guide.

 

My first tank I listened to my LFS religiously and I ended up really regretting it but I've finally had the change to start my next tank since I had to move and the members here and all the reading and learning I was able to do really helped (though I know I still have a lot more to learn lol). This video series from BRStv is also EXTREMELY helpful in helping you understand your tank. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlUv9SRB_g8&list=PLBaMLrfToJyxJ1PuJZwhkxvvdFP14eV_t

 

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Tired

I strongly recommend getting some sort of shrimpgoby or watchman goby, and a tiger pistol shrimp. They form a symbiotic relationship, with the (nearly-blind) shrimp digging tunnels under rockwork and the goby standing guard. Great fun to watch. They'll enjoy if you scatter a big handful of busted-up shell pieces around the rockwork for them to use in construction, but don't require it. Any of the watchman or shrimpgobies will work, but I'm fond of yellow watchman (which get about 3-4") and antenna (about 2") gobies. 

 

Clown gobies are cute little fellows who perch on rockwork. They have bad-tasting slime that deters predators and bullying. If you buy one, ask to see it eat- sometimes they don't want to, so you should check that it's eating already.

Pygmy filefish and aiptasia-eating filefish are strange-looking, but neat. Not 100% reef safe all the time, though, they nip things sometimes.

Cardinalfish are readily available and tend to be hardy, and most stay smallish. 

Firefish come in white-orange and purple, and are timid (so should be one of your first fish added) but pretty. I like their twitching dorsal fins. 

A wide assortment of blennies would be suitable. You may want to avoid fangblennies, which are minorly venomous and can bite your other fish. Rhino blennies are semi-rare in the hobby, but neat.

Rooster waspfish are venomous, but not deadly so to humans, and you shouldn't put your bare hands in the tank anyway. They're small, interesting perching fish, which won't sting anything that doesn't propel itself directly onto their spines. 

Possum wrasses are a bit shy sometimes, but great fun to watch, lots of personality. 

They should be one of the last fish added, as they can be a little aggressive, but yellowtail blue damselfish are hardy, pretty, and spunky. 

 

 

I don't know if you have a lid, but you need a lid. All fish (except seahorses and possibly boxfish) have the potential to jump when startled, so you should have a lid to prevent them winding up on the floor and dying an unpleasant death. 

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Tamberav
9 hours ago, mipster said:

Does your auto top off reservoir have a lid? It looks like the top is cut off and open. That could account for the rapid reduction in how much water is in there. With my resevoir, I drilled a hole large enough to snake the hose and power line to the pump through and then I screw the lid shut, evaporation is almost impossible in there so any water that leaves the canister is just going into my tank.

 

1241046291_WhatsAppImage2020-05-26at8_41_40PM.thumb.jpeg.c7653c5cc2ea6376339eb4e09b927e4b.jpeg

I see you've got a Tunze Auto Top Off which is a good sensor but I can't tell if it's the one with the optic sensor or just the float valve. If just the float valve, make sure you keep it clean so that the sensor can move without salt creep getting in the way. 

 

Also I see you have a metal hose clamp on your return line, I've read that isn't not good to use those submerged into the water. Look for something like these: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ratchet-clamp-for-tubing-1-6684828461f4e5bda1e2a33b5e0db6d3.html

 

How often do you have to empty that skimmer cup? Your skimmate looks very watery. Also what is that filter sock on the left for? It doesn't look like you have a drain line filtering into it so I can't tell what it is there for.

 

I wouldn't let that LFS back anymore really. The main thing you need to learn first is how to properly mix you own salt water and how to do a water change. Lucky for you StevieT (inventor and owner of InTank) has created great how to guide on just how to do that. How to do a water change Guide.

 

My first tank I listened to my LFS religiously and I ended up really regretting it but I've finally had the change to start my next tank since I had to move and the members here and all the reading and learning I was able to do really helped (though I know I still have a lot more to learn lol). This video series from BRStv is also EXTREMELY helpful in helping you understand your tank. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlUv9SRB_g8&list=PLBaMLrfToJyxJ1PuJZwhkxvvdFP14eV_t

 

All of this 🙂 no metal clamps...nice catch!! 

 

@mynewtank the skimmer doesn't look like it is set right ...there should be a pipe in the back or such that you can turn to control how much air it is getting. It may have notches or numbers at it. You want to turn this until the bubbles are just making it to the bottom of the cup.

 

It sometimes takes a few weeks to dial in... especially if this skimmer is new...it needs to 'break in'. Keep an eye on your salinity since it is removing a lot of water right now. When the skimmer is working correctly it should be brown gross looking water/crud that smells just like poop when you got to dump it in the toilet! 

 

Here is a photo of mine...just dumped it yesterday but you can see it's collecting coffee colored water and particles...the red tube is how mine is adjusted (just turn). Basically the larger particles will travel up the tube and be collected when it's running correctly. 

 

MVIMG_20200527_045428.thumb.jpg.ee616e345346cc276ffbb88dba48794f.jpg

 

 

 

Also your hammer coral looks okay to me...it is a little closed but they can actually close up much more then that. It may just be adjusting from the move if it was more open at the LFS and sometimes corals just have a new normal in different tanks (change colors or tentacle length and so on is not always an indicator of health).

 

 

You will want to invest in a coral dip. I use Coral Rx...there are pests that can eat/kill corals so most people dip all new corals before they go in the tank. 

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mynewtank
8 hours ago, Tamberav said:

All of this 🙂 no metal clamps...nice catch!! 

 

@mynewtank the skimmer doesn't look like it is set right ...there should be a pipe in the back or such that you can turn to control how much air it is getting. It may have notches or numbers at it. You want to turn this until the bubbles are just making it to the bottom of the cup.

 

It sometimes takes a few weeks to dial in... especially if this skimmer is new...it needs to 'break in'. Keep an eye on your salinity since it is removing a lot of water right now. When the skimmer is working correctly it should be brown gross looking water/crud that smells just like poop when you got to dump it in the toilet! 

 

Here is a photo of mine...just dumped it yesterday but you can see it's collecting coffee colored water and particles...the red tube is how mine is adjusted (just turn). Basically the larger particles will travel up the tube and be collected when it's running correctly. 

 

MVIMG_20200527_045428.thumb.jpg.ee616e345346cc276ffbb88dba48794f.jpg

 

 

 

Also your hammer coral looks okay to me...it is a little closed but they can actually close up much more then that. It may just be adjusting from the move if it was more open at the LFS and sometimes corals just have a new normal in different tanks (change colors or tentacle length and so on is not always an indicator of health).

 

 

You will want to invest in a coral dip. I use Coral Rx...there are pests that can eat/kill corals so most people dip all new corals before they go in the tank. 

Ya know, I was watching some YouTube videos last night just to find out exactly how this thing worked and I noticed that mine is too clean.  I keep telling these guys my nitrates were too high - way too high ----  I just texted the LFS guy exactly what you said and I'm waiting for a response.  

 

*****. He just called me back ---- He says since it's a new skimmer (it's only about 2 weeks old) - it's going to take a couple more weeks to build up the nastiness. _ I asked him about the foam on the bottom and why it isn't there and he says that it will as well.  Is that accurate?

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NoOneLikesADryTang

It's correct that it takes time - but not usually a couple of months. I'd refer to your manual (or look it up online) and see what adjustments can be made. Most people start getting skimmate within a couple weeks. 

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Tamberav
14 hours ago, mynewtank said:

Ya know, I was watching some YouTube videos last night just to find out exactly how this thing worked and I noticed that mine is too clean.  I keep telling these guys my nitrates were too high - way too high ----  I just texted the LFS guy exactly what you said and I'm waiting for a response.  

 

*****. He just called me back ---- He says since it's a new skimmer (it's only about 2 weeks old) - it's going to take a couple more weeks to build up the nastiness. _ I asked him about the foam on the bottom and why it isn't there and he says that it will as well.  Is that accurate?

New skimmers need to break in (oils from the manufacturing process) but I always turn them down so they are not filling the cup so much (since it will lower your salinity) then re-adjust later. It's been two weeks so I would expect it to not be filling with clear water at this point and start brewing something. It may need to be turned down so the bubbles are lower. 

 

No one is born with the knowledge of how to run a reef....we all just... honestly... fumbled through it and asked a lot of questions so don't get discouraged 🙂

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