Help rebuilding RO/DI unit.

[waldoz]

Ok I wanted to start this thread  here instead of cluttering up our build thread.  I will make a link to it though in case anyone is interested.  Also if you know anyone that can help out please tag them on here.

So this is the most recent city water testing I have.

and here is the unit I have, if you know this already from my last post sorry about that just want to make sure everyone gets all the info.

 

Here is the link to the company. -----> RD-102

 

 

As far as the filters we are going to get these. --->  BRS   Also going to order red,blue and black hose. 

Is there suppose to be a check valve on this? I don't think I see one and don't know if its really that important.  Is There anything else I am forgetting that we need to worry about?   I also don't know where all the hoses are suppose to go since they were all cut. 😞  I can't complain though.     I checked the water and it does not stink or anything so I don't think its molded at all.   Open to some suggestions before we place the order.  Thanks for any help guys!

@seabass

@spectra

[seabass]

The BRS filters are fine.  So, in order, you will connect

• Sediment filter
• 5 micron carbon filter
• 1 micron carbon filter
• RO membrane
• DI

I don't believe you'll need a check valve unless you add a pressurized tank.

 

You may need a way to connect it to your water supply.  I like these stop valves which install right above the cold water shut off valve under a sink.

 

You'll also want an automatic shut off kit.  And maybe a Rubbermaid Brute canister for the water you make.

[MrP]

The outlet elbow on the membrane most likely has a check valve in it. You will need an auto shut off valve if it is missing from your unit.  Auto Shut Off Valve

[Clown79]

21 minutes ago, seabass said:

The BRS filters are fine.  So, in order, you will connect

• Sediment filter
• 5 micron carbon filter
• 1 micron carbon filter
• RO membrane
• DI

I don't believe you'll need a check valve unless you add a pressurized tank.

 

You may need a way to connect it to your water supply.  I like these stop valves which install right above the cold water shut off valve under a sink.

 

You'll also want an automatic shut off kit.  And maybe a Rubbermaid Brute canister for the water you make.

I've always use 0.5 um and 1um carbon blocks.

 

Is there a disadvantage/advantage? I've read that the larger the number the more particles get through but not much explanation on the impact of filtration. 

[seabass]

9 hours ago, Clown79 said:

I've always use 0.5 um and 1um carbon blocks.  Is there a disadvantage/advantage? I've read that the larger the number the more particles get through but not much explanation on the impact of filtration. 

TBH, I can't remember all the details.  I'd guess that if you search through AZDesertRat's posts, you might find a detailed explanation.  Purity of your source water, livestock sensitivity, and desired filter capacity would likely factor into your choice.

 

SpectraPure (the brand that you and AZDesertRat use) states that, "Only 0.5 micron carbon block filters remove trihalomethanes, low levels of chloramine, pesticides, volatile organic chemicals and 99.95% of giardia and cryptosporidium cysts".

 

If searching for the ultimate prefilter, I'd recommend a 0.5 micron SpectraPure sediment filter followed by their 0.5 micron carbon block.  Supposedly, one of SpectraPure's carbon blocks can handle chloramine, while other manufacturers usually recommend two for chloramine (often one being a specialized carbon filter).

 

In general, you normally would consider that smaller micron prefilters are better.  They are usually more expensive too.  I've been using 1 micron SpectraPure filters, and (to save more money) I recently switched to the BRS filters that waldoz is considering.  I reconfigured my unit's stages from sediment, carbon, RO, DI, DI - to sediment, carbon, carbon, RO, DI for the change.

 

If money is not an object, then I'd recommend SpectraPure filters (including the RO membrane and DI stages).  However, this may not always be necessary.  Some people can even get away with tap water.  I'm seriously considering removing my DI stage to save even more, but haven't mustered up the courage to try non-zero TDS water yet.

[waldoz]

9 hours ago, seabass said:

The BRS filters are fine.  So, in order, you will connect

• Sediment filter
• 5 micron carbon filter
• 1 micron carbon filter
• RO membrane
• DI

I don't believe you'll need a check valve unless you add a pressurized tank.

 

You may need a way to connect it to your water supply.  I like these stop valves which install right above the cold water shut off valve under a sink.

 

You'll also want an automatic shut off kit.  And maybe a Rubbermaid Brute canister for the water you make.

OK,  We have a 15 gallon Rubbermaid tub we are using in the meantime.  So Just to be clear since I am not using the DI  on this I could use this water as back up drinking water if we loose water to the house for some reason?   Unfortunately  its not going to be in the house so it has to be in the garage.  I put in a sharkbite  1/4 turn valve and 1/4 compression fitting.  

 

For the waste water I don't have a drain near so I was going to run it into the attic under the insulation  and back down to the drain in the laundry room.  I don't want to go under the house in case something leaks and I don't know about it.  Would I need a check valve on the waste line since I am going up probably  5 or 6ft before I drop down to the drain?

Looking at the float valve kit since it was suggest to put check valve in.  Thanks for the info thus far.

[Clown79]

8 hours ago, seabass said:

TBH, I can't remember all the details.  I'd guess that if you search through AZDesertRat's posts, you might find a detailed explanation.  Purity of your source water, livestock sensitivity, and desired filter capacity would likely factor into your choice.

 

SpectraPure (the brand that you and AZDesertRat use) states that, "Only 0.5 micron carbon block filters remove trihalomethanes, low levels of chloramine, pesticides, volatile organic chemicals and 99.95% of giardia and cryptosporidium cysts".

 

If searching for the ultimate prefilter, I'd recommend a 0.5 micron SpectraPure sediment filter followed by their 0.5 micron carbon block.  Supposedly, one of SpectraPure's carbon blocks can handle chloramine, while other manufacturers usually recommend two for chloramine (often one being a specialized carbon filter).

 

In general, you normally would consider that smaller micron prefilters are better.  They are usually more expensive too.  I've been using 1 micron SpectraPure filters, and (to save more money) I recently switched to the BRS filters that waldoz is considering.  I reconfigured my unit's stages from sediment, carbon, RO, DI, DI - to sediment, carbon, carbon, RO, DI for the change.

 

If money is not an object, then I'd recommend SpectraPure filters (including the RO membrane and DI stages).  However, this may not always be necessary.  Some people can even get away with tap water.  I'm seriously considering removing my DI stage to save even more, but haven't mustered up the courage to try non-zero TDS water yet.

I use the spectrapure system but not filters.

 

The places I order only sell their DI which isn't cheap and I found it lasted as long as the bulk bag I buy.

 

I use a chloramine block and regular carbon block. 

 

Thank you for clarifying Seabass. 

 

I've used my water up to 3 tds but not higher. 

 

I wish I could use tap water too but ours is awful. I used it in my planted betta tank, it was the worst I have ever experienced in algae our tds 400-578 lately.

 

 

[Clown79]

3 hours ago, waldoz said:

OK,  We have a 15 gallon Rubbermaid tub we are using in the meantime.  So Just to be clear since I am not using the DI  on this I could use this water as back up drinking water if we loose water to the house for some reason?   Unfortunately  its not going to be in the house so it has to be in the garage.  I put in a sharkbite  1/4 turn valve and 1/4 compression fitting.  

 

For the waste water I don't have a drain near so I was going to run it into the attic under the insulation  and back down to the drain in the laundry room.  I don't want to go under the house in case something leaks and I don't know about it.  Would I need a check valve on the waste line since I am going up probably  5 or 6ft before I drop down to the drain?

Looking at the float valve kit since it was suggest to put check valve in.  Thanks for the info thus far.

Why aren't you planning on using DI?

 

Sorry I can't help with anything else. Mine is attached to my sink weekly with an adapter when in use.

 

[waldoz]

Well cost savings for now.  Seabass suggested trying it with out the DI and see how it goes.    We need to pick up a TDS meter before we use the water and find out where its at.   As far as the DI, I would pick up another canister  and go that way instead of packing the ones I have.    As far as water goes I been here for 26yrs never lost water, but you never know. :)

[seabass]

On 5/13/2020 at 12:39 PM, waldoz said:

Seabass suggested trying it with out the DI and see how it goes.

I don't know if I suggested it.  Although, I suppose, suggested it was possible.  Assuming decent municipal water, I'm mostly (more than 50%) sure that it'll be alright.

 

On 5/13/2020 at 12:39 PM, waldoz said:

As far as the DI, I would pick up another canister  and go that way instead of packing the ones I have.

100% agree with this.

 

Hey, just a correction.  I believe a check valve is recommended for an automatic shut off valve.  Here's a diagram which might help:

 

[waldoz]

That picture is just for the  placement for the check valve correct? I am going to take it apart in the next few days and lay everything out.  Fingers crossed the membrane is still good.  If not have to order one.  I also have a back flush valve I think if that is what its called.

[seabass]

I'm also not 100% sure if running the waste line significantly higher than the unit will add pressure and ultimately affect the waste water ratio.  If going above the ceiling, I would probably locate the unit up relatively high.  Anyway, check the ratio of waste water to product water to see if it's within spec.

 

3 minutes ago, waldoz said:

That picture is just for the  placement for the check valve correct? I am going to take it apart in the next few days and lay everything out.

Yeah, your unit would have a second carbon stage.  But otherwise (minus the flow restrictor and flush valve), the diagram is mostly correct for your setup.

[waldoz]

I'm adding all this up and it's very close to BRS entry level unit if we also have to buy a membrane.  Hard part is we don't know if the membrane is still good.  I don't think we realized all the little parts add up fast. 😕 I will have to talk it over with my son. This is a good lesson for others also 👍

[seabass]

Keep in mind that making your own RO (or RO/DI) water is cheaper than buying distilled, RO, or water from a LFS.  Over time, the savings will end up paying for the unit and filters.  If you plan to continue reefing, making your own water makes the most sense.

[waldoz]

Yes it does, I think he wants to wait to buy a new system. It just going to be a month or more out.   That way no guess work and it's all new. We are in this for the long haul for sure. We don't have anything in the tank yet and already love it. 😍

[waldoz]

Just to give an update.😁  This should last a long time with the amount we will be making.