DIY Chiller with Aluminum

[darksun92]

Hi group! I want to know in your own experience if the aluminum is toxic for the reef? I found this video on YouTube and I want to test it with my tank, I tried fans but it only maintains my temp on 28.5 and frozen water bottle can reach 25 but I can’t stay whole day at the tank changing bottles every 30 minutes 😅 I saw a chiller from chill solutions with the same mechanism but I don’t know what’s the water block made of. 

 

https://www.chillsolutions.com/products/csxc-1-aquarium-chiller 

 

 

[mcarroll]

If you look around some more there's a version that's made for aquariums.

 

Just remembered the name:  Coolworks' IceProbe.

 

Seems like everyone carries it...Marine Depot, etc.  $120.

 

http://www.novatecproducts.com/iceprobe_aquarium_chiller.htm

[darksun92]

5 hours ago, mcarroll said:

If you look around some more there's a version that's made for aquariums.

 

Just remembered the name:  Coolworks' IceProbe.

 

Seems like everyone carries it...Marine Depot, etc.  $120.

 

http://www.novatecproducts.com/iceprobe_aquarium_chiller.htm

I think is too pricey and it has a lot of bad reviews, even if I want it there’s no stores than send to my country Mexico. 

[mcarroll]

Ah....well other than the probe made for aquarium use, it's made from the same computer parts as the models you were tanking about.  They would both get the same bad or good review.

 

For what it's worth, I would bet the bad reviews revolve around expectations being too high for the cooling capability.   This will only shave off a degree or two from a tank of any size.

 

The good news is that unless you're keeping non-tropical animals, even a peak temperature of 30ºC (86ºF) isn't too warm.  So maybe just don't worry about it?

[darksun92]

On 4/29/2020 at 2:18 PM, mcarroll said:

Ah....well other than the probe made for aquarium use, it's made from the same computer parts as the models you were tanking about.  They would both get the same bad or good review.

 

For what it's worth, I would bet the bad reviews revolve around expectations being too high for the cooling capability.   This will only shave off a degree or two from a tank of any size.

 

The good news is that unless you're keeping non-tropical animals, even a peak temperature of 30ºC (86ºF) isn't too warm.  So maybe just don't worry about it?

So there’s no problem if my temp reach 29C in the day and 26 in the night? I have some sps and they look a bit uncolored, Btw a friend in my city had 2 iceprobes so I ask him for one to test and there’s no much difference with a fan or the chiller, just the less eveporation.

[mcarroll]

On 5/1/2020 at 12:24 AM, darksun92 said:

So there’s no problem if my temp reach 29C in the day and 26 in the night?

84ºF/29ºC isn't all that warm for tropical corals.

 

(It depends on what you're keeping.)

 

But you might take measures to prevent so much cooling at night so the swing is more the 1-2ºC.

 

Try running your heaters on a timer get the extra level of control...keep them off during peak times, and keep them a little higher at night/during cooler times.

[darksun92]

On 5/5/2020 at 7:23 PM, mcarroll said:

84ºF/29ºC isn't all that warm for tropical corals.

 

(It depends on what you're keeping.)

 

But you might take measures to prevent so much cooling at night so the swing is more the 1-2ºC.

 

Try running your heaters on a timer get the extra level of control...keep them off during peak times, and keep them a little higher at night/during cooler times.

I set my temperature controller that fan kicks at 27.3 an the maxim that reach this last week is 28.4/28.2 and turn off when low to 27, I have softies lps and sps, but for example all my incrusting corals are dying, my softies are doing good, but I don’t know if my incrusting corals are suffering for my temperature. 

[mcarroll]

5 hours ago, darksun92 said:

I have softies lps and sps, but for example all my incrusting corals are dying, my softies are doing good, but I don’t know if my incrusting corals are suffering for my temperature. 

By encrusting, are you also implying that they are stony corals?

 

I would eliminate other possibilities before pointing the finger at temperature.

 

How are you maintaining alkalinity?  How stable has it been?

 

How is the tank in general doing?  I.e. algae and other aspects.

 

What are all your test results like?

 

If possible, I would arrange your heat control so that it provides more heat support at night, and perhaps even turns off altogether during the day if the ambient temperatures really are warm enough.

[darksun92]

36 minutes ago, mcarroll said:

By encrusting, are you also implying that they are stony corals?

 

I would eliminate other possibilities before pointing the finger at temperature.

 

How are you maintaining alkalinity?  How stable has it been?

 

How is the tank in general doing?  I.e. algae and other aspects.

 

What are all your test results like?

 

If possible, I would arrange your heat control so that it provides more heat support at night, and perhaps even turns off altogether during the day if the ambient temperatures really are warm enough.

Yes for example, my War coral (Favia) is bleaching slowly and all the tissue is dying, also my Montipora Boston bean and tubs stellata are not recovering, my space invader pectinia is growing but losing some tissue, my leptoseris is losing tissue in some parts, my lps frogspawn and hammer are doing better everyday, all the softies too. 
 

my Alkalinity is 7.5/8 I dose .5 daily that is my consumption. It have been stable since 1/2 month ago. 
 

not so much algae only a bit in the coral plugs.

 The last general test 2 week ago was 

- Salinity 1.025

- No3 15

- No4 0.01

- Ca 500

- Mg 1500 

 

if u don’t turn the fan on the day the temperature can reach more than 32 with it stays at 28.4 and in the night 27 is too much swing? 

[mcarroll]

23 minutes ago, darksun92 said:

my Alkalinity is 7.5/8 I dose .5 daily that is my consumption. It have been stable since 1/2 month ago.

Are you using an auto-doser or manually dosing?  (daily?)

 

23 minutes ago, darksun92 said:

Salinity 1.025

- No3 15

- No4 0.01

- Ca 500

- Mg 1500 

Ca and Mg seem very high compared to specific gravity and alkalinity.  Is this just how your salt mix is, or did something happen to affect the balance?

 

NO3 looks good.

 

PO4 (not NO4 I assume) however is basically zero.

 

If you want to stop further damage to your corals, you should dose some liquid phosphates up to 0.10 ppm.  Something like Seachem Flourish Phosphates.

 

Unfortunately this will not reverse damage that's already done....but it will allow corals that aren't already gone to begin healing.

 

23 minutes ago, darksun92 said:

if u don’t turn the fan on the day the temperature can reach more than 32 with it stays at 28.4 and in the night 27 is too much swing? 

Even 89 isn't too hot if your corals are tropical...but it is getting up there.  And if general tank conditions aren't optimal (in particular available nutrients like phosphates) it could be a problem.  (see those comments above in red)

 

Try turning off the fans and the heaters during the day and see what the peak temperature is that way.  I suspect it will be lower than your current setup.

 

As for the temperature swinging low at night...

 

Like I said, provide more heat support at night....don't let the temperature drop that far.  If you need to add a second heater or upgrade to a larger one – do it.

 

I'd put your current heater on a timer and have it turn off for the hottest part of the day, and use a higher set point during the night.

 

Base the set point off of the new peak based on no heaters running.  

 

You could also turn of the lights for an hour or two during the hottest parts of the day.

 

But addressing the phosphate situation is your most urgent task.

 

A fan can help too, but is ugly, loud and generally distracting....I would exhaust all other options first.

[darksun92]

3 hours ago, mcarroll said:

Are you using an auto-doser or manually dosing?  (daily?)

Daily manually 

 

3 hours ago, mcarroll said:

Ca and Mg seem very high compared to specific gravity and alkalinity.  Is this just how your salt mix is, or did something happen to affect the balance?

I don’t dose anything but alkalinity and phosphate. 

 

3 hours ago, mcarroll said:

PO4 (not NO4 I assume) however is basically zero.

 

If you want to stop further damage to your corals, you should dose some liquid phosphates up to 0.10 ppm.  Something like Seachem Flourish Phosphates.

 

Unfortunately this will not reverse damage that's already done....but it will allow corals that aren't already gone to begin healing.

Sorry is Po4 😅 I dose that product but only 1ml daily, can it dose more without risk? 
 

3 hours ago, mcarroll said:

Even 89 isn't too hot if your corals are tropical...but it is getting up there.  And if general tank conditions aren't optimal (in particular available nutrients like phosphates) it could be a problem.  (see those comments above in red)

 

Try turning off the fans and the heaters during the day and see what the peak temperature is that way.  I suspect it will be lower than your current setup.

 

As for the temperature swinging low at night...

 

Like I said, provide more heat support at night....don't let the temperature drop that far.  If you need to add a second heater or upgrade to a larger one – do it.

 

I'd put your current heater on a timer and have it turn off for the hottest part of the day, and use a higher set point during the night.

 

Base the set point off of the new peak based on no heaters running.  

 

You could also turn of the lights for an hour or two during the hottest parts of the day.

 

So basically the temperature mustn’t swing 1 degree daily and maintain the most stable I can even If I have to use more my heater.