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LordNecro

LordNecro's Red Sea Max Nano (High End Softie/LPS Tank)

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LordNecro

Hey guys, this is my first tank! I'm doing a high-end softie and lps tank.

 

The tank and equipment are:

Red Sea Max Nano (20 gallon)

AutoAqua Smart ATO Micro 120P - Auto Top Off System

Trigger Systems Triton ATO 5 Gallon Reservoir

100W Eheim Jager Aquarium Heater

EcoTech Vortech MP10WQD Quietdrive Propeller Pump

 

I cycled with caribsea Fiji pink live sand and liferock. I used Dr. Tim's one and only as well as their ammonia.

 

My livestock list is:

Mocha storm and orange storm clown

Firefish

 

Rainbow Scoly

ASD HG Torch (1 head)

Aussie Gold Torch (2h)

NY Knicks Torch (1h)

Indo Bright Gold Hammer (3h)

UC Ironman Blasto (1h 2 baby)

Rdpd Blasto (5h)

JF Asskrak Zoa (4p)

GMK Zoa (1p)

White Zombie (4p)

Money Shot (4p)

Mythical Corals Electus Mushroom (3 large 2 babies)

UC Amazeball Goni

 

Others I plan to have are:

Pink-Streaked Wrasse

Yellow Watcherman or Yasha Goby

 

More coral for the sandbed. Maybe HG micromussa, rainbow acans, master scoly?

 

IMG_1980.jpg

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WV Reefer
2 hours ago, LordNecro said:

Hey guys I recently joined nano reef and am going to start my first tank hopefully in the coming weeks! I am currently in the planning stage but very close to buying everything. Since this is my first tank I have been doing tons of research but any comments regarding equipment would be appreciated. I also have some questions so if anyone could answer that would be amazing as well.

 

Purchase List:

Tank:

Red Sea Max Nano Complete Reef System (20 gal) Black

Built in sump, protein skimmer, and filter

30lb CaribSea Fiji Pink Arag-Alive! Reef Sand 

20lb CaribSea Liferock Dry Live Rock

AutoAqua Smart ATO Micro 120P - Auto Top Off System

Trigger Systems Triton ATO 5 Gallon Reservoir 

75W Eheim Jager Aquarium Heater

EcoTech Vortech MP10WQD Quietdrive Propeller Pump

Zacro LCD Digital Aquarium Thermometer Fish Tank Water Terrarium Temperature

 

Tests/Maintenance:

Hanna Instruments ALKALINITY DKH COLORIMETER HI772 HANNA CHECKER - MARINE WATER

Hanna Instruments PHOSPHATE ULTRA LOW RANGE PPM COLORIMETER HI774 HANNA CHECKER - MARINE WATER

Red Sea Calcium Pro Test Kit

Red Sea Magnesium Pro Test Kit

Red Sea Marine Care Test Kit

BRS Refractometer

Flipper Nano Magnetic Cleaner

Heavy Duty Specimen Container - small

 

Cycling:

Dr. Tim's 2oz One & Only Live Nitrifying Bacteria

Dr. Tim's 2oz Ammonium Chloride for Fishless Cycles

 

Fish Food:

Hikari Bio-Pure Frozen Mysis Shrimp 16oz Flat Pack

Reef Nutrition 16oz Small TDO-C2 Chroma Boost

Piscine Energetics 1mm Saltwater Fish Food pellets

 

Other:

BRS 20G Tube Extra Thick Gel Super Glue

Coral RX Pro Concentrated Coral DIp 1oz

 

 

Stock:

2 designer clownfish (Perhaps Frostbite, Platinum Storm, Snow Storm, or Premium Black Snowflake) 

Flagtail Pink Bar Goby

Swissguard Basslet

 

CUC:

17 Dwarf Ceriths

4 Nassarius

5 Florida Ceriths

3 Astraea Snails 

3 Assorted Hermits

1 Emerald or Ruby Mithrax Crabs

 

Coral:

Basically all sources say start with zeos, polys, mushrooms and the like. So currently I'm planning to add coral after my cycle and clown fish and CUC is added. 

Pacific Flower Mushroom Rock Ricordea Yuma Indonesia (or Sunkiss Bounce)

Aussie Gold Torch Coral

Palythoa sp. - Sonic Flare Palys - 1" WYSIWYG Frag

Sarcophyton sp. - Japanese Long Tentacle Toadstool Leather - 1" Stock Specimen

Euphyllia parancora - Double Indo Gold Branching Hammer - 1.5" Stock Frag

WWC AOI Zoanthids

(SPS in the future? Interested in tons of BattleCoral frags)

Any other corals that you guys think would fit? (I like rare and really colorful ones)

 

Now for the questions lol

So is this too much coral to start with? Also when do you think would be good to add sps coral? I know that my tank has to be really stable for sps coral to grow so I guess maybe a few months. 

 

Should I get a different lighting option then the Al Prime HD provided with the nano? If you recognize the corals I'm planning to start with they are pretty expensive so I'm definitely ok with shelling a few hundred dollars for a better light for my coral to thrive.

 

What about dosing and coral feeding? Research so far for me is the census that sometimes weekly water changes are fine for softies and hardy coral, however, dosing and coral feeding would be beneficial for coral. So my question is what methods of dosing do you prefer (2-part, by hand?), and what equipment would you recommend.


Lastly, what else should I buy regarding equipment? I'm looking for a siphon and supplies for water changes currently so any opinions on that would be amazing!

 

 

Well thats it for now. For those of you who read this I thank you. I can't wait to dive into this hobby and have a beautiful nano reef tank. I will update this journal pretty frequently so you guys can see the coral growing and my progress. 
 

 

:welcome:
 

looks like a pretty solid list so far. 
 

—that light will work just fine  There are threads about it along with people sharing what settings they use. 

 

—in a tank this size you will not need to worry about dosing until you start packing it with hard corals. Water changes will replenish all your elements. 
 

— feeding coral is up to you......I personally do not feed my coral. Some respond better to feeding than others. 
 

 

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SliceGolfer

Solid plan, I like it. Looking at your list, here are a couple suggestions and/or questions:

 

Purchase List:

Trigger Systems Triton ATO 5 Gallon Reservoir - if you have room, take a look at the IM 5gal reservoir. The pull out drawer is the plus on this unit. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/5-gallon-hydrofill-reservoir-auqa-gadget-innovative-marine.html

75W Eheim Jager Aquarium Heater - Recommend going with a 100w heater, maybe even a temperature controller - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/titanium-aquarium-heater-system-bulk-reef-supply.html

 

Tests/Maintenance:

Red Sea Calcium Pro Test Kit - Recommend the Hanna checker for calcium

Red Sea Magnesium Pro Test Kit - Unless you're tied to Red Sea, the Salifert mag test works great

Heavy Duty Specimen Container - small - What's this for? Ziploc tupperware bowl works great

 

Other:

BRS 20G Tube Extra Thick Gel Super Glue - Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue is CA glue. Get gel and regular CA glue at the dollar store. A 2 pack is usually a buck. Also recommend having accelerator on hand, especially when mounting frags to plugs - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/insta-set-super-glue-accelerator-bob-smith-industries.html

Coral RX Pro Concentrated Coral Dip 1oz - I went with the 8oz regular bottle. 16 months and I still haven't used all of it.  

 

How are you planning to cement your rocks together? Epoxy putty is my tool of choice here. Works great, better than CA glue. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/two-little-fishies-aquastik-underwater-epoxy-putty.html

 

What are you using for a pure, clean water source? Do you have an RODI unit?

 

Questions:

 

So is this too much coral to start with?

My advice is to complete the cycling of your tank, perform a 90% water change, and then work on adding all the fish you plan to keep first. Here's why - In case your fish come down with any illness, unless you have a quarantine tank, you'll need to treat them in the tank you have. If you have coral with fish this will severely limit your treatment options. Fish generate a higher demand of biological load than coral, so adding 1 or 2 fish after cycle will help prepare your system for coral. And as your tank naturally matures through the development cycles (diatoms, brown, green, hair algae, on to coralline algae) having your fish and CUC address those concerns before the nasties could affect/smother out your coral is all the better. Remember, you're purchasing dead rock. Dead. No life. There are many phases your tank will go through which is easier to address without coral. Once you get through these phases and then add coral, you're gonna have a solid, stable tank.

 

Also when do you think would be good to add sps coral? I know that my tank has to be really stable for sps coral to grow so I guess maybe a few months. 

Tricky to answer. Honestly it depends on your experience level. You. Not the tank, not the gear, not the additives. SPS corals can be the toughest corals to keep. They have demanding requirements. Not expensive requirements, but they demand stability. This means keeping your water parameters stable, no swings, no fluctuations. They require specific nutrient levels, i.e. dKH, Ca, Mg, N03, P04. They require a good light source. Can you keep some SPS with a single AI Prime? Yes. Are there better lighting options? You bet. You want a light that provides consistent coverage across the tank, as little shadowing or hot spots as possible, good PAR output, and adjustable spectrum and intensity. Personally, I ran a Nuvo 20 with two AI Primes for a year, and then switched out my lights. I had shaded areas on the end of my tank, and a giant hotspot right in the middle. If this is your first reef tank, My advice is get through the cycle, add fish, add the other corals you plan on, and then consider getting one or two pieces of SPS. Something like a Bubble Gum Montipora Digitata, Montipora Setosa, or Stylophora would be a good first piece.

 

Should I get a different lighting option then the Al Prime HD provided with the nano? If you recognize the corals I'm planning to start with they are pretty expensive so I'm definitely ok with shelling a few hundred dollars for a better light for my coral to thrive.

Sure, you can start with the AI Prime. You can add a second one down the road even and have two over your tank. You might also consider Reef Breeders Photon V2+, AI Prime 32, Radion G4 Pro (maybe find a deal since the G5s are out), Kessil 360, or a hybrid unit. Honestly the AI Prime will suit you well with softies and LPS. 

 

What about dosing and coral feeding? Research so far for me is the census that sometimes weekly water changes are fine for softies and hardy coral, however, dosing and coral feeding would be beneficial for coral. So my question is what methods of dosing do you prefer (2-part, by hand?), and what equipment would you recommend.

Dosing - This is a whole other topic. It's important to understand when to dose, and recognize why you are dosing. My advice is to read up on this and educate yourself first. Then ask questions. You won't need to dose anything (and I mean anything) until the demand in your tank is higher than what a weekly/biweekly water change can replace. And ask questions first just to confirm you're headed down the right path. Same with feeding. Most corals draw all the nutrients they need from water and light. There's really no need to target feed corals if they are receiving the nutrients they require from normal sources (light, water, fish poop).


Lastly, what else should I buy regarding equipment? I'm looking for a siphon and supplies for water changes currently so any opinions on that would be amazing!

Hmm, everything and anything? OK seriously, you'll want some velcro for mounting equipment in your stand, zip ties to tidy up or mount power bricks, one or two 5 gal buckets for water changes, one or two 3 gal buckets to fill your ATO, a 24"-30" algae scraper with interchangeable blades (for glass or acrylic depending on tank), 6'-8' of hose to siphon water for water changes, an old tooth brush for scrubbing equipment when doing maintenance, a bag of citric acid to clean coralline off the MP10 wet side, a pair of arm length neoprene gloves, long forceps, tweezers, measuring cups, measuring spoons, plastic spoons, 1ml, 3ml, 5ml, 10ml syringes, shelving space or a spare closet to hold all this crap, etc! Obviously you don't need all this stuff to start, but as I wrote this I was looking in my fish closet and rattling things off.

 

You got a good plan. I see two things you'll want to plan around. First, your water source. You didn't mention an RODI or pure source of water. With that comes where do you store the water, how do you plan on mixing/storing water for water changes, etc. Put some thought to this. Second, I sense your excitement in your post, which is great! Just be sure to take it slow, get through the maturation steps one at a time. Don't jump in, don't rush, and don't panic. 

 

Good luck!

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LordNecro
1 hour ago, SliceGolfer said:

Solid plan, I like it. Looking at your list, here are a couple suggestions and/or questions:

 

Purchase List:

Trigger Systems Triton ATO 5 Gallon Reservoir - if you have room, take a look at the IM 5gal reservoir. The pull out drawer is the plus on this unit. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/5-gallon-hydrofill-reservoir-auqa-gadget-innovative-marine.html

75W Eheim Jager Aquarium Heater - Recommend going with a 100w heater, maybe even a temperature controller - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/titanium-aquarium-heater-system-bulk-reef-supply.html

 

Tests/Maintenance:

Red Sea Calcium Pro Test Kit - Recommend the Hanna checker for calcium

Red Sea Magnesium Pro Test Kit - Unless you're tied to Red Sea, the Salifert mag test works great

Heavy Duty Specimen Container - small - What's this for? Ziploc tupperware bowl works great

 

Other:

BRS 20G Tube Extra Thick Gel Super Glue - Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue is CA glue. Get gel and regular CA glue at the dollar store. A 2 pack is usually a buck. Also recommend having accelerator on hand, especially when mounting frags to plugs - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/insta-set-super-glue-accelerator-bob-smith-industries.html

Coral RX Pro Concentrated Coral Dip 1oz - I went with the 8oz regular bottle. 16 months and I still haven't used all of it.  

 

How are you planning to cement your rocks together? Epoxy putty is my tool of choice here. Works great, better than CA glue. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/two-little-fishies-aquastik-underwater-epoxy-putty.html

 

What are you using for a pure, clean water source? Do you have an RODI unit?

 

Questions:

 

So is this too much coral to start with?

My advice is to complete the cycling of your tank, perform a 90% water change, and then work on adding all the fish you plan to keep first. Here's why - In case your fish come down with any illness, unless you have a quarantine tank, you'll need to treat them in the tank you have. If you have coral with fish this will severely limit your treatment options. Fish generate a higher demand of biological load than coral, so adding 1 or 2 fish after cycle will help prepare your system for coral. And as your tank naturally matures through the development cycles (diatoms, brown, green, hair algae, on to coralline algae) having your fish and CUC address those concerns before the nasties could affect/smother out your coral is all the better. Remember, you're purchasing dead rock. Dead. No life. There are many phases your tank will go through which is easier to address without coral. Once you get through these phases and then add coral, you're gonna have a solid, stable tank.

 

Also when do you think would be good to add sps coral? I know that my tank has to be really stable for sps coral to grow so I guess maybe a few months. 

Tricky to answer. Honestly it depends on your experience level. You. Not the tank, not the gear, not the additives. SPS corals can be the toughest corals to keep. They have demanding requirements. Not expensive requirements, but they demand stability. This means keeping your water parameters stable, no swings, no fluctuations. They require specific nutrient levels, i.e. dKH, Ca, Mg, N03, P04. They require a good light source. Can you keep some SPS with a single AI Prime? Yes. Are there better lighting options? You bet. You want a light that provides consistent coverage across the tank, as little shadowing or hot spots as possible, good PAR output, and adjustable spectrum and intensity. Personally, I ran a Nuvo 20 with two AI Primes for a year, and then switched out my lights. I had shaded areas on the end of my tank, and a giant hotspot right in the middle. If this is your first reef tank, My advice is get through the cycle, add fish, add the other corals you plan on, and then consider getting one or two pieces of SPS. Something like a Bubble Gum Montipora Digitata, Montipora Setosa, or Stylophora would be a good first piece.

 

Should I get a different lighting option then the Al Prime HD provided with the nano? If you recognize the corals I'm planning to start with they are pretty expensive so I'm definitely ok with shelling a few hundred dollars for a better light for my coral to thrive.

Sure, you can start with the AI Prime. You can add a second one down the road even and have two over your tank. You might also consider Reef Breeders Photon V2+, AI Prime 32, Radion G4 Pro (maybe find a deal since the G5s are out), Kessil 360, or a hybrid unit. Honestly the AI Prime will suit you well with softies and LPS. 

 

What about dosing and coral feeding? Research so far for me is the census that sometimes weekly water changes are fine for softies and hardy coral, however, dosing and coral feeding would be beneficial for coral. So my question is what methods of dosing do you prefer (2-part, by hand?), and what equipment would you recommend.

Dosing - This is a whole other topic. It's important to understand when to dose, and recognize why you are dosing. My advice is to read up on this and educate yourself first. Then ask questions. You won't need to dose anything (and I mean anything) until the demand in your tank is higher than what a weekly/biweekly water change can replace. And ask questions first just to confirm you're headed down the right path. Same with feeding. Most corals draw all the nutrients they need from water and light. There's really no need to target feed corals if they are receiving the nutrients they require from normal sources (light, water, fish poop).


Lastly, what else should I buy regarding equipment? I'm looking for a siphon and supplies for water changes currently so any opinions on that would be amazing!

Hmm, everything and anything? OK seriously, you'll want some velcro for mounting equipment in your stand, zip ties to tidy up or mount power bricks, one or two 5 gal buckets for water changes, one or two 3 gal buckets to fill your ATO, a 24"-30" algae scraper with interchangeable blades (for glass or acrylic depending on tank), 6'-8' of hose to siphon water for water changes, an old tooth brush for scrubbing equipment when doing maintenance, a bag of citric acid to clean coralline off the MP10 wet side, a pair of arm length neoprene gloves, long forceps, tweezers, measuring cups, measuring spoons, plastic spoons, 1ml, 3ml, 5ml, 10ml syringes, shelving space or a spare closet to hold all this crap, etc! Obviously you don't need all this stuff to start, but as I wrote this I was looking in my fish closet and rattling things off.

 

You got a good plan. I see two things you'll want to plan around. First, your water source. You didn't mention an RODI or pure source of water. With that comes where do you store the water, how do you plan on mixing/storing water for water changes, etc. Put some thought to this. Second, I sense your excitement in your post, which is great! Just be sure to take it slow, get through the maturation steps one at a time. Don't jump in, don't rush, and don't panic. 

 

Good luck!

Thanks so much for the advice! So yeah regarding the saltwater I currently just considering buying from my LFS. If I do water changes of 10% each week or the like thats only around 2 gallons a week so should be ok. Otherwise I can get distilled water and mix my own saltwater. Yup going to need tons of buckets lmao for holding/storing water and for the ATO etc. Also yeah will definitely put thought into this. Just wanted to see peoples opinions before I actually commit. I will probably go with most of your suggestions. Thanks again!

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SliceGolfer

Emergencies happen so be prepared to have extra water on standby. If buying from LFS ask them if it is RO, or RODI. Ask them how often they change their filters and what TDS the water is. Also ask what salt they use if buying pre mixed. Maybe get a TDS meter of your own.

 

You didn’t mention salt mix. Red Sea Blue Bucket or Tropic Marin Pro Reef are great choices. See what’s local to you and readily available. Also pick a salt that matches the parameters you want to keep.

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LordNecro

I just ordered everything. Estimated delivery by May 1st which is next Friday. Can't wait to get everything and start cycling the tank!

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LordNecro

Everything came early today! Going to get everything ready and think of scapes with the rocks over the next few days. 

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LordNecro

Currently on the second day of the cycle. After the first day my ammonia was at 2ppm and nitrite at 0ppm. I used Dr. Tims bacteria and I’m worried if I screwed up. I didn’t read that I should add the bacteria after the tank was at the correct temp so I added it when the water was about 68F and it slowly rose to 77F. Will this have harmed the bacteria? Also I measured my salinity at about 33ppt and added salt directly into the tank. I now know that’s something I should definitely not have done, but since there’s nothing except for rock, sand, and bacteria, would there be a negative affect? 46343C56-1507-44C9-91F0-D4CCC0183BC1.thumb.jpeg.3540b50bacb751e29cf2c23b6c99ed28.jpeg

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pemphigus

Is the red sea stand you bought more of a matte or glossy finish?

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LordNecro
3 hours ago, pemphigus said:

Is the red sea stand you bought more of a matte or glossy finish?

I would say matte

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LordNecro

So my tank has been cycling for 32 days. I posted a thread if I was done as my tank still can't reduce 2pmm ammonia in a day. Someone insists that my cycle is done because there is a set time for bacteria to set on rock. And also says nitrite is not important which I have read others saying. Here are my parameters. Every spike in ammonia and nitrite is because I added 2ppm ammonia

C4291A90-6F9A-42AC-9F03-C084A6FF4414.png

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Ash1176

Nice tank bud! Will be following, I’m cycling my first saltwater tank right now too.

you’re nearly there, just need ammonia and nitrite to be processed in 24hrs before you can do a water change to get some nitrates out and be fully cycled. I know the patience game is hard but it’s so rewarding in the end!

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LordNecro

Yeah my tank can process ammonia in 24 hours now, went from 2ppm to 0.2ppm in 24 hours. Not nitrite though. Most people say mine is finished so I did a big almost 50% water change today and going to check parameters and maybe add a pair of clowns tomorrow. 

 

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Ash1176
7 minutes ago, LordNecro said:

Yeah my tank can process ammonia in 24 hours now, went from 2ppm to 0.2ppm in 24 hours. Not nitrite though.

 

Yes, if it were freshwater I’d say wait, but from what I understand nitrites don’t affect saltwater fish the same way and isn’t as toxic as it is to fish freshwater 

what kinda clowns you getting?

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LordNecro

Perfect lol. Yeah I head nitrites don't affect saltwater as well. I'm going to check what the LFS has to offer. I believe they have an orange storm so definitely one of those. Maybe a bullet hole or something else, depends on what the store has. 

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LordNecro

Got my clownfish! Also this is my coral placement ideas for now. 

IMG_4350.jpg

IMG_4364.jpg

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Ash1176

Nice clowns! You got ideas for the next fish?

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LordNecro

Yup! Next week is either yellow watcherman goby or pink streaked or peacock wrasse. Then the next whichover I didn’t get out of the two lol. CUC coming Thursday I believe, I’ve been feeding my clowns way too much lol

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LordNecro

The first week of livestock has passed! Clowns and cuc looking good. Clowns I feed 2 times a day, with a mixture of tdo and pe pellets as well as hikari and pe frozen mysis. Since my tank is new, the cuc don't have much algae to eat, so I feed a little extra so it sinks and the second they land I see snails and hermit crabs on the move. I felt like I shouldn't have added such a large cuc since the tank is so new and should be introduced in stages, but reef cleaners has a minimum purchase which I could not reach so I just bought the 17-gallon package. I have one snail casualty from a hermit crab and a hermit crab casualty not sure how. I think John shipped extras, but the package was supposed to have 4 hermits but I definitely have way more than 4, maybe 10 even. I don't want to seem like a monster but I hope some of them die. Going to add another fish next Sunday, either a goby or wrasse. When should I add coral? Also, god water changes are such a pain. I bought a python easy fill but it turns out non of my faucets have threads. Then I bought a sicce pump, but the tubing of the python is way too long so filling and removing water takes two people, one holding the tubes up. Might have to look for a shorter tube. Just used buckets instead.

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LordNecro

New fish! Fire Goby. LFS didn't have any ywg or pink-streaked wrasses so I went with the fire goby. Just drip acclimated it and added to the tank. Still figuring out how to take good pictures lol, have an iPhone 11max pro. Coral can be shipped anytime, currently on schedule for July 6th so they come Tuesday, July 7th. As I mentioned in the main post, going to have a bunch of high end softies and lps.

IMG_5298.jpg

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LordNecro

So thinking about my next fish or two and wanted your opinion. I currently have two clowns, a firefish and cuc. FIrefish has its own small hole in my rock and comes out during the day but back into the hole when spooked or at night. I wanted to add a goby/pistol shrimp pair to complete my stocking but do you feel it might not add much in terms of the display as they are going to create their cave and stay there rather than swim around the tank? Should I go with a pink-streaked wrasse or some other fish that doesn't burrow or stay on the bottom and another like a benny or goby that does?

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LordNecro

Decided on my last two fish! One will be a pink streaked wrasse and the other a yasha or yellow watchman goby!

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Ash1176

YWG is on my list too, you gonna try and get bonded pair with a shrimp? 

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LordNecro

I might actually, a lot of people have 6 fish stocked in their red sea max nano so maybe I will lol

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LordNecro

Just bought a UC amazeball goni frag yesterday! Total of 13 frags coming Tuesday. Going to test Cal, Mag, and Alk later today to make sure everything is ok. Nitrite and Ammonia has been a steady 0 and nitrate around 10-20. Salinity is a little low, however, around 1.025ppm/33ppt

IMG_4668 2.JPG

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