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ThatNewGuyReefing

Nuvo 10 dosing options?

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ThatNewGuyReefing

So I currently use kalkwasser in my ATO to boost my calcium and alkalinity but I had a guy offer me a kessil a80 and a 2 channel doser for $70 so now I'm curious as to what I can dose more of. Was thinking of doing a trace and possibly nopox vodka to lower my nitrates and phosphates and reduce the need for waterchanges (less change = more stable). I currently run phosguard and I keep macroalgaes in my display but if I could reduce them more efficiently I'd love to throw some acros in there.

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jbb_00

Only dose what your test kits show is needed.  

 

In a 10g you should be able to keep up with most needs by water changes alone.  

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Clown79

Using phosguard regularly will strip the tank of phosphates leading to bigger issues.

 

Other than what you test for and need, that's all I would dose.

 

Less is more in this hobby.

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ThatNewGuyReefing
5 hours ago, jbb_00 said:

Only dose what your test kits show is needed.  

 

In a 10g you should be able to keep up with most needs by water changes alone.  

I wanna go back to zero waterchanges. Was thinking of doing an amino supplement or something. And drip vodka to strip the nitrates and phosphates. I use reefroids pretty much daily and feed reef frenzy/mysis daily and I feed my mandarin caviar every other day.

 

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jbb_00
1 minute ago, ThatNewGuyReefing said:

I wanna go back to zero waterchanges. Was thinking of doing an amino supplement or something. And drip vodka to strip the nitrates and phosphates. I use reefroids pretty much daily and feed reef frenzy/mysis daily and I feed my mandarin caviar every other day.

 

Man that's a lot in a 10g.  

 

I kind of wonder if chemical dosing would even keep up with it or if it would be overkill in such a small volume of water.  Might be worth the try but I would watch it very close. A lot could go wrong quickly.  

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ThatNewGuyReefing
4 hours ago, jbb_00 said:

Man that's a lot in a 10g.  

 

I kind of wonder if chemical dosing would even keep up with it or if it would be overkill in such a small volume of water.  Might be worth the try but I would watch it very close. A lot could go wrong quickly.  

I almost killed my system when I started kalkwasser haha. Went from 350 calc and 8 alk to 460 calc and 12 alk in a week lolol. Took a long time to bounce back from that

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xthunt

What ato you use? I have ato smart micro, and after every top off, the water in the line would fall back into the container and stir up the sediment. Also didnt like the idea of supposed wear kalk has on ato pumps. So, I took one of the peristaltic pumps off the doser (jebao?) and wired it to the ato. Solved both problems. That could be an idea if you want the deal, depending on your ato and what kind of doser it is.

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Clown79
7 hours ago, ThatNewGuyReefing said:

I wanna go back to zero waterchanges. Was thinking of doing an amino supplement or something. And drip vodka to strip the nitrates and phosphates. I use reefroids pretty much daily and feed reef frenzy/mysis daily and I feed my mandarin caviar every other day.

 

Why would you want to strip nitrates and phos?

 

That not only kills corals but is a guarantee to dino's

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chunkylovah

If you are set on not actively doing water changes then get the two channel doser and two containers. One doser pulls dirty water from tank and into one container. The other pulls pre mixed salt water from the other container into the tank. Set the schedule based off your water tests and have the doser swap a little bit of water a few times a day every day to maintain stability. That way your 'dosing' everything you need and maintaining your nitrates and phosphates. I think its cheaper then dosing and safer. 

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Garf

Ya, don't make things harder for yourself because you got a "good deal". The two channel doser for auto water changes sounds ideal if you want to go zero water changes. 

 

Do you have any idea what your alk/calcium consumption is?  You do have a lot going on in that small volume of water, the less things you can add, the better.  I do disagree with your "less water change = more stable" assumption. A good saltwater mix and regular maintenance is key, water changes should replace all your key elements, remove nutrients, and keep things way more stable than trying to add all that stuff back in.

 

 

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