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Pod Your Reef

trace elements to use with ESV B-ionic 2 part


neyes_ice

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Thrassian Atoll

Strontium - The strontium test kits are pretty ridiculous to use though.  There’s like a million steps.  I have been dosing according to what my ICP tests are telling me.

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Nothing. Waterchanges and esv replace what you need.

 

Anything you add should be tested when it comes to trace elements. Most of those kits are not very accurate.

 

 

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I agree. If you are regularly feeding the tank with high quality foods of marine origin, doing water changes, and dosing something like ESV, then extras shouldn't be needed.

 

To the extent those things don't apply to your tank, extras might help.

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thanks for all the info. i have a waterbox 10, water changes wouldn't be too expensive. i'll be using tropic marin pro salt. i dose coral amino though

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17 hours ago, mcarroll said:

I'd consider their standard formula instead of the Pro Reef version.  Amino's should also be unneeded. 

any reason for the classic instead of the pro reef?

 

classic has low cal and high alk

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Classic has a good balance. 

 

Pro reef has low alk. 

 

I'm not aware of a scenario where starting off with alk that low is a benefit.  Having alk a little higher than "normal" allows some leeway for it to drift lower before it gets "too low" in case you aren't dosing or something happens to your doser.   Having a margin of safety has always been the only main point of having higher alk.  The need for that margin is slightly diminished with an auto-doser or calcium reactor.  I switched from keeping alk at 11-12 dKH down to 8dKH when I got a doser.  Dosing reservoirs still go empty, and things happen, so I appreciate still having a margin before <7 levels are reached.  👍

 

(You aren't attempting ULNS are you?)

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43 minutes ago, mcarroll said:

Classic has a good balance. 

 

Pro reef has low alk. 

 

I'm not aware of a scenario where starting off with alk that low is a benefit.  Having alk a little higher than "normal" allows some leeway for it to drift lower before it gets "too low" in case you aren't dosing or something happens to your doser.   Having a margin of safety has always been the only main point of having higher alk.  The need for that margin is slightly diminished with an auto-doser or calcium reactor.  I switched from keeping alk at 11-12 dKH down to 8dKH when I got a doser.  Dosing reservoirs still go empty, and things happen, so I appreciate still having a margin before <7 levels are reached.  👍

 

(You aren't attempting ULNS are you?)

does the classic have too low calcium? is the PROs 7-8 alk too low? could i add alk to the new mix? right now im keeping alk between 8-9. i am going for what ever i can keep stable 😄

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How stable it is depends mostly on how much the tank is using.   If you have stony corals, usage will be ever-increasing.....eventually you will not be able to keep it stable without dosing.  Eventually you will have to dose at least once every day....or establish an auto-doser.

 

The absolute level you keep isn't such a big deal, aside from the practical concerns I mentioned earlier over alk levels.

 

Calcium levels and Mg levels seem to be more or less irrelevant in terms of negative side effects.  They have no impact on pH or other factors like alkalinity does, so IMO that makes sense. 

 

There is also A LOT MORE ca or mg in the water compared with alkalinity (1400 ppm Mg vs 200 ppm Alkalinity), so if there is a minimum level of those "greater elements", then it must be far lower than the natural concentration in seawater.

 

In other words, there almost is no such thing as "low calcium" in practice.  Corals are relatively insensitive to the level.  Same for Mg.

 

At least in a high-growth scenario I've seen corals be tweaked by any dip in alkalinity much below 7 dKH.  There's a relatively sharp sensitivity to low alkalinity.  Given the relationship of alk to pH and of pH to things like nitrogen, it makes sense to me. 

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