Jump to content
Dstrickland

Algae or Cyano help

Recommended Posts

Dstrickland

Struggling getting this in control but wanted to I’d what I’m facing.  I found issue was rodi filter producing tds of 115.  I don’t see air bubbles but blows off easy the cones right back.  Definitely worse after lights on for awhile, both on sand and rock.  Even in high flow areas.

 

thanks for the help

BF362E94-E8C9-447D-8276-648481CBFAEF.jpeg

78F2D5F4-B23A-48B2-BC51-54CBFC377A20.jpeg

Sorry, id and comes right back

Share this post


Link to post
Tired

Cyano. Common in new tanks. 

Share this post


Link to post
Clown79

Can u post a pic with more white light. It's hard to confirm under blue.

Share this post


Link to post
Dstrickland

More photos 

7736E86F-A33B-4A98-AF26-0714EB380979.jpeg

61CE66C6-512B-4B37-9046-AE4CCEC65AE7.jpeg

5A8135A7-3016-4C53-B944-88B392D6196C.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
paulsz

what are your parameters?

Share this post


Link to post
Dstrickland

Salinity 1.026

temp 78

nitrate between 0 and 5 api test

dont have phosphate test

Calcium 400

alk 9

dont have mag 

Share this post


Link to post
Clown79

It looks stringy, kinda like dino's.

 

You need to test phosphate with a good tester like salifert or hanna.

 

Low to no nutrients and lack of biodiversity are main causes of dino.

Share this post


Link to post
Dstrickland

Will phosphate show with algae present? Going to do 3 day black out, any other tips

Share this post


Link to post
Clown79

Phosphate is 1 of the most important things to test. Corals need it and nitrates.

 

A lack of phos and nitrates leads to dino's. Same with a lack of diversity like pods.

 

Black outs are just band aids, if its dino's, it doesn't work.  

 

The only way to confirm 100% dino's and the strain is under microscope, otherwise there is a jar test that can confirm dino's but not strain.

  • Try siphoning about 1-2 cups of tank water/algae into a jar/plastic bottle(just water)
  • Shake the water as hard as you can for about 30 seconds then strain the water through a paper towel into a large cup.(not one you use to drink out of)  Make sure all of the water passes through the paper towel and none bypasses the paper towel.
  • Let the water sit in the cup for an hour in ambient light. 

 

If you see clumps or stringy substances appear, its dino.

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Dstrickland

For phosphate testing, Hanna ultra low range correct(is the one I want)?

Share this post


Link to post
Joboo

A few questions:

 

How old is the tank?

How many gallons?

Can you confirm you corrected the RODI issue?

Whats the PH?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Dstrickland

Tank is 6 months old, 10 gallon nuvo, yes using distilled water (checking with handheld TDS meter) and pH is 8.0

Share this post


Link to post
Joboo

 

Good call on the distilled water. I'll be honest. I don't trust RODI units that much. And for a 10g tank its pretty cost effective to just use distilled water.

 

If it were my tank I would:

blow the rock off with a turkey baster, then immediately do a 50% water change. monitor and see how things go.

 

I guess you can get a phosphate tester but honestly not sure I would change course of action based on it. You could add some GFO but think a large water change would accomplish the same result.

Share this post


Link to post
Dstrickland

It’s frustrating I’ve been on top of water changes etc.. I can’t figure if it’s phosphate levels being high with bad filter or low nutrient levels. Going to get better nitrate and phosphate test. Even consider getting a 9w Uv that fits the nuvo

Share this post


Link to post
Clown79
1 hour ago, Joboo said:

 

Good call on the distilled water. I'll be honest. I don't trust RODI units that much. And for a 10g tank its pretty cost effective to just use distilled water.

 

If it were my tank I would:

blow the rock off with a turkey baster, then immediately do a 50% water change. monitor and see how things go.

 

I guess you can get a phosphate tester but honestly not sure I would change course of action based on it. You could add some GFO but think a large water change would accomplish the same result.

If its dino's, the last thing you wanna do is use gfo and blow the algae off the rocks.

3 hours ago, Dstrickland said:

For phosphate testing, Hanna ultra low range correct(is the one I want)?

Ya, that's a good one, it reads the lowest levels of phos and honestly its worth the money. No colour chart guessing.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
mcarroll
On 2/14/2020 at 1:58 PM, Dstrickland said:

For phosphate testing, Hanna ultra low range correct(is the one I want)?

Doesn't matter actually....the ultra low range model is "special" for those folks trying to run an "ULNS" tank....which should just about be totally out of fashion by now.  (Don't do it.)

 

For our purposes - avoiding zero phosphates - any of their meters except the ultra high range will be fine. 

 

The standard model has a range of 0.00 to 2.50 and a very acceptable accuracy rate. 

 

The ultra low range model reduces the useful range, but increases the accuracy....fun, but not that useful vs the standard model given our stated goal.   

 

I think Milwaukee has a set of handheld meters now too, although I haven't used one yet.

 

23 hours ago, Dstrickland said:

Tank is 6 months old, 10 gallon nuvo, yes using distilled water (checking with handheld TDS meter) and pH is 8.0

This is the main problem...newness and immaturity of the tank.  But this problem is being aggravated....

 

21 hours ago, Dstrickland said:

It’s frustrating I’ve been on top of water changes etc.. I can’t figure if it’s phosphate levels being high with bad filter or low nutrient levels. Going to get better nitrate and phosphate test. Even consider getting a 9w Uv that fits the nuvo

This is the second part of the problem that is aggrivating the first aspect....you're doing too much and making the tank too clean. 

 

No more water changes unless there's a need -- only if alkalinity is too low (<7dKH) or if there's a mess you need to siphon out.  (You could siphon the water through a filter sock and return the old (but clean) water to the tank in the last case.) 

 

You should also take steps to eliminate excessive filtration.  No need for things like GFO, growing macroalgae, organic carbon dosing, etc., so remove them.  At most, run a protein skimmer.

 

👍

 

The problem was never your RODI water -- so relax, do less  (overall) and enjoy your tank!  😃

 

With any luck dino's will subside as soon as you stop aggravating them....it does end like that in some cases.

 

Running some activated carbon (eg. Seachem Matrix Carbon) to reduce any dino toxins in the water would be a good precaution....but only use 1/4 of the recommended dose and change it weekly (instead of monthly) until the dino bloom subsides.

 

What To Do Next

If you don't see a positive difference in the tank within a day or so of "righting the filtration" then you and the tank would be well-served by manually correcting your tank's nutrient levels.  Dose some phosphates so that levels in the tank reach at least 0.10 ppm on a test kit.  (Higher is fine....lower is not and will be more likely to leave the dino's in their current state.) 

 

If you dose PO4, use something like Seachem Flourish Phosphate and follow dosing directions on the bottle -- or use one of their online or app-based dosing calculators.  (Flourish is considered a freshwater/planted tank product, so look for it and the calculators to be categorized like that.)

 

Adding a UV filter isn't a bad idea, but I'd leave that for a Phase II in case the filter-corrections and nutrient-corrections don't have an effect.  (Still won't take long for you to know if you want to add it.)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Dstrickland

Thanks for taking the time and detailed ideas.  Before I saw this I ordered a Red Sea nitrate and  phosphate kit, regular carbon with gfo, and uv that’s goes with this tank.  I agree I was doing too much and will monitor levels close to adjust as needed.  Thanks again for all the advice 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Dstrickland

Quick update-

all clear after 3 day black out and remained clear 24 hours later

then installed uv sterilizer and still clear

tested today nitrate 5 and phosphate 0.02

I have increased feeding compared to weeks prior
so far big turn around 

BED8C238-1860-401A-B8C5-7B6B61464B93.jpeg

506804EF-5E24-4D7D-A1B8-D37855B910E2.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recommended Discussions

×
×
  • Create New...