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pburdier02

8 Gallon Peninsula

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pburdier02

Hey fellow Reefers, I'm Pedro but everyone calls me Chris! I've been in and out of the hobby for acouple years now and I recently got the reefer fever. I was looking for something small and bumped into the 8 Gallon JBJ Rimless desktop. The filter is moveable so I thought why not give a peninsula style reef a shot.      

 

JBJ 8 Gallon Rimless Desktop came with the Lyra Led Light, Removable Bio Filter, and Pedestal. Looking into upgrading the light soon. Any suggestions or tips?!?

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pburdier02

Tank Update Day 3

Cloudy water has gone away, well at least most of it! Upgraded the extremely small stock return pump which was pushing only 80 gph to a 160 gph amazon pump for 8 bucks and now I'm seeing more action from the Innovative Marine Spin Stream. 

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Ordered a AI Prime 16hd Reef light with the flex arm mount which is expected to arrive next week Wednesday, and an API test kit to see where ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are.

 

Looking into stopping by the LFS to pick up some MicroBacter Start XLM and Coraline Algae in a bottle. Should I wait until the cycle is complete to add the Coraline Algae? Also should I be looking into adding some pods since I started with dry rock?

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Tamberav

I like the slope in the sand...not sure it will stay but it looks neat.

 

Check the bottles Coraline ingredients...some are just bottled calcium which you want to avoid. There is one that is supposed to be spores....which seems a hit or miss. 

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Seadragon
19 hours ago, pburdier02 said:

Should I wait until the cycle is complete to add the Coraline Algae? Also should I be looking into adding some pods since I started with dry rock?

 

For the Purple & Pink Coralline algae in a bottle with Nitrifying Bacteria that I purchased, you would add that at the beginning when the cycle starts.  I've done so for 2 tanks and had nothing but success and plenty of purple and maroon coralline algae all over my rocks and plastic now.

 

As for the copepods (I used Tisbe copepods several times for my tanks), I waited until the Nitrogen cycle was complete before adding the copepods.  I didn't want to risk any of the copepods dying due to any ammonia or nitrites within the tank during the cycle.

 

I like your design, it's very interesting.  One caution about deep sandbeds would be the build-up of Hydrogen Sulfide over time and how that could pose a problem in the long term if it gets released.

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pburdier02
2 hours ago, Seadragon said:

 

For the Purple & Pink Coralline algae in a bottle with Nitrifying Bacteria that I purchased, you would add that at the beginning when the cycle starts.  I've done so for 2 tanks and had nothing but success and plenty of purple and maroon coralline algae all over my rocks and plastic now.

 

As for the copepods (I used Tisbe copepods several times for my tanks), I waited until the Nitrogen cycle was complete before adding the copepods.  I didn't want to risk any of the copepods dying due to any ammonia or nitrites within the tank during the cycle.

 

I like your design, it's very interesting.  One caution about deep sandbeds would be the build-up of Hydrogen Sulfide over time and how that could pose a problem in the long term if it gets released.

@Seadragon Thanks for the advice! It’s my first time cycling a tank without live rock and I had no idea deep sand beds can cause problems. I purchased only the purple coraline algae in a bottle.Now that you mentioned both, I will get the pink one also.

 

where did you purchased your pods at?

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Seadragon
4 hours ago, pburdier02 said:

@Seadragon Thanks for the advice! It’s my first time cycling a tank without live rock and I had no idea deep sand beds can cause problems. I purchased only the purple coraline algae in a bottle.Now that you mentioned both, I will get the pink one also.

 

where did you purchased your pods at?


The first time I purchased Tisbe Copepods was from LiveAquaria.com.  The second time was from Algaebarn.com.  I usually just get them wherever I placed large orders at that moment in time and try to get the fastest, free shipping whenever I can.

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pburdier02

Day 5

 

Dosed the full bottle of Bio Spira yesterday as instructed in the back of the bottle to then find out on the forums that for nano tanks the full bottle isn't necessary. Tested the Water last night and Nitrates were thru the roof with no detectable Ammonia and Nitrites. Tested again this morning and these are the results. 

Ammonia- 0.25-.50ppm

Nitrites-1.0-2.00ppm

Nitrates-20ppm

PH-7.4

 

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The Filter floss in the filter looks a little orange. Should I take it out or leave it for the bacteria to complete the cycle?

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Clown79
4 hours ago, pburdier02 said:

Day 5

 

Dosed the full bottle of Bio Spira yesterday as instructed in the back of the bottle to then find out on the forums that for nano tanks the full bottle isn't necessary. Tested the Water last night and Nitrates were thru the roof with no detectable Ammonia and Nitrites. Tested again this morning and these are the results. 

Ammonia- 0.25-.50ppm

Nitrites-1.0-2.00ppm

Nitrates-20ppm

PH-7.4

 

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The Filter floss in the filter looks a little orange. Should I take it out or leave it for the bacteria to complete the cycle?

Your cycle is in its process.

 

You don't want to keep the floss for bacteria, that's what the liverock is for. Floss is to collect particles, its to be changed 2 times a week.

 

The slope looks cool but once you get cuc and other critters, it may not last so watch for that rock possibly moving.

 

Deep sand beds are completely different to run in a reef tank, it's best to read up on the proper maintenance of it because it's not meant to be disturbed. It's quite in depth.

 

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pburdier02
17 hours ago, Clown79 said:

Your cycle is in its process.

 

You don't want to keep the floss for bacteria, that's what the liverock is for. Floss is to collect particles, its to be changed 2 times a week.

 

The slope looks cool but once you get cuc and other critters, it may not last so watch for that rock possibly moving.

 

Deep sand beds are completely different to run in a reef tank, it's best to read up on the proper maintenance of it because it's not meant to be disturbed. It's quite in depth.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I took the filter floss out last night and will wait until I'm finished with the cycle to put some back in. I have been trying to find the best information on DSB since I would really like for it to stay. I won't be keeping any SPS so high flow water movement shouldn't be a problem.

 

I will be introducing a single Black and White Clownfish and have seen them stir up the sand bed for some odd reason. I'm hoping the little cave that's there is good enough for him not too. I've been also researching the CUC for a DSB and came up with a list  

x2 Astrea Snails

x2Margarita Snails

x1 Bumble Bee Snail

x1 Nassarius Snail

x1 Scarlett Red Hermit

x1 Blood Red Fire Shrimp

 

Also looking into adding some Bristle Worms and Spaghetti Worms down the road to help keep the DSB.

Should I introduce the CUC first and then fish or can I do both?

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Seadragon
On 1/21/2020 at 11:48 AM, pburdier02 said:

x2 Astrea Snails

x2Margarita Snails

x1 Bumble Bee Snail

x1 Nassarius Snail

x1 Scarlett Red Hermit

x1 Blood Red Fire Shrimp

 

Some things you should know about the CUC that you listed and also some suggestions for other CUC that you might want to research:

  • Astrea Snails cannot right themselves if they fall upside-down on the sandbed.  This makes them easy prey for opportunists such as hermit crabs and they will also eventually starve to death if you do not help them flip over or notice that they are upside-down.
  • Margarita snails live deep down in the ocean where the temperature is much lower. If they are being kept in warmer waters, such as around 78° F, the heat shortens their lives significantly.  "It is important not to house Margarita snails in warm aquariums. The recommended temperature range is 50-60° F / 10-15° C, but some aquarists have successfully kept this species in temperatures up to 68° F / 20° C."
  • Bumble Bee Snails will eat the beneficial microfauna in your sand and may also prey on small snails if they become hungry enough.  Personally, I would not get them and I would advise you to do more research on them so that you know what you're getting yourself into.  Having microfauna in your sand is a good thing which is what makes it live sand.
  • Nassarius snails have the potential of eating animals that are in a weakened state, such as when you first acclimate an expensive Cleaner Shrimp.  They do not eat algae so make sure this is something you really want.

 

I would strongly advise you to look into the following CUC which are awesome for particular things:

  • Banded Trochus Snails - Excellent at cleaning the glass of brown diatoms and film algae.  If they fall upside-down on the sand, they can easily turn themselves right-side up without any problems.  I've seen mine do these "ninja-moves" where they twirl around fast if they fall on their backs which gets themselves right-side up in no time.
  • Stocky Cerith Snails - The jack-of-all-trades of eating all kinds of algae and are also excellent at sifting through the sand and burrowing themselves.  These are a must-have for me in any tank.
  • Mexican Turbo Snails - The best at eating nuisance algae, but unfortunately they may also eat your Red Dragon's Breath macroalgae as well so use with caution.  But, if you do have nuisance algae such as Cotton Candy algae, I would get these in a heart beat.  They also may eat Cyanobacteria and Green Hair Algae if the GHA is still small/trimmed.
  • Tiger Sand Conchs - A must-have in my opinion if you have any hint of Cyanobacteria.  They will not only eat the Cyanobacteria, but they do a great job at keeping your sandbed clean and sifted.  They also love to burrow and hop around on their powerful foot.

As for what to add and when, as long as your Nitrogen cycle is complete and your Ammonia and Nitrites are showing 0, then you can add whatever you prefer slowly so that you do not cause a mini-cycle to occur.  I personally start with 1-2 fish, but there would be no issue starting with CUC if that's what you prefer and the Nitrogen cycle is complete.  Just keep in mind that CUC has a very low bio-load compared to fish and you'll need some bio-load to keep the good bacteria alive for the Nitrogen cycle.

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Clown79
1 hour ago, pburdier02 said:

Thanks for the heads up. I took the filter floss out last night and will wait until I'm finished with the cycle to put some back in. I have been trying to find the best information on DSB since I would really like for it to stay. I won't be keeping any SPS so high flow water movement shouldn't be a problem.

 

I will be introducing a single Black and White Clownfish and have seen them stir up the sand bed for some odd reason. I'm hoping the little cave that's there is good enough for him not too. I've been also researching the CUC for a DSB and came up with a list  

x2 Astrea Snails

x2Margarita Snails

x1 Bumble Bee Snail

x1 Nassarius Snail

x1 Scarlett Red Hermit

x1 Blood Red Fire Shrimp

 

Also looking into adding some Bristle Worms and Spaghetti Worms down the road to help keep the DSB.

Should I introduce the CUC first and then fish or can I do both?

Using floss is perfectly fine, during cycling it often needs changing more often because of silt from sand and dusty rocks.

 

Clowns do disturb sand. Mine move the sand around their home all the time.  They seem to like to clean their area of any sand. 

 

 

With cuc, always buy what you need, too many can easily die because of lack of food.

 

I never had luck with margarita snails.

 

I love nassaurius, they really help with keeping the sand bed clean. 

 

Spiny star astrea are really cool and work all the time but astrea snails can't right themselves so be prepared to have to do if they get stuck on their shell.

 

Trochus are great too.

 

I love scarlet hermits, they are always doing something.

 

Cuc is very helpful, their job is to clean and when something dies or is dying, they clean it up quick- that's part of their job within the ecosystem. 

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pburdier02

Tank Update Day 10

AI Prime 16HD Installed!

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Small Back-up Battery Installed (Perks of being a Network Tech 🙂

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Bio-Spira sped things up with the cycle

Ammonia-0

Nitrite-0

Nitrate-0-10 ppm(can't really tell with this shitty API Test Kit)👎

Took your advice and picked up 4 Torchus Snails and a Blue Green Chromis for now...Chromis.thumb.jpg.0dcaf977de9b36612b66ac4f674af665.jpg

Aladdin loves to swim in front of the power head887489516_Chromis(2).thumb.jpg.faa5bf286f489181ac6150fd2adef4bb.jpg

Torchus Snails getting to work

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Some type of starfish Hitchhiker 

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DSB layers looking cool

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Last one of my little monkey swimming in 6 gallons of waterMonkey.thumb.jpg.49d6786c42473b1fbf10e9e38e95463f.jpg

 

Pods came in last night from Algae Barn(Tigriopus, Tisbe, and Apocyclops Copepods) with a free order of Live Brine Shrimp. Not sure what is the shelf life on those little critters but Aladdin seemed to love it this morning.

 

I've been messing with the AI Prime a lot and would like some input since this tank is really shallow. I understand for now its not a big deal with fish only and I plan on keeping Softies and LPS. Currently uploaded the David Saxby Preset with a peak of 26% on Blues and 12% Clear white. 

 

The whites are on only for the phone pics!

 

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Naekuh

As Tam stated your slope will probably flatten out over time unless you placed bricks on the floor elevate it, and even then it would turn into steps again over time. 

 

Otherwise tank looks nice... You probably also need to cycle that daughter fish, i hear they get really expensive in the long run, but have a great return of investment.  :) 

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