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Bruno_Soares

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Bruno_Soares

Hello,
My name is Bruno and I am from Lisbon, Portugal and this is my first saltwater tank, as the title says, is a Reef Tank.
I have been in the hobby for about 20 years and always had freshwater tanks. From 30 liter to 600 liter, I had some 20 tanks over the years. Last August I entered my local store to search for some plants for my tank I was about to remount and it hit me... now it´s a good time to start at saltwater.
My tank is a 70x40x40cm, 112 liter tank, about 29,5 gallon tank. I believe it is a bit small for starters but since I already had it, took it as the best choice for now.
So, I bought the following material by advice of my local store.

- Aqua Illumination Prime HD (with Aqua Illumination Prime Tank Mount Black);
- Tunze Comline DOC Skimmer 9004;
- Tunze Turbelle Nanostream 6020;
- Sicce 150W Heater;
- Caribbean South Sea Base Rock 9 kg;
- Coral Sand 5 liters (bag of 5L but only used 2,5 liter, more or less);
- AquaForest Sea Salt 5kg;
- Fluval Epoxy 115g (asked the store owner for help since I had no experience with glueing the rocks);
- Fluval Hidrometer;
- Aquili RO System.

 

I began setting up the aquarium and by the 22nd of September I turned it all on... let the games begin.

I have been having some problems. I have started without inserting any kind of bacteria, which I reckognize was a mistake. At least for a beginner in saltwater. Never used any in freshwater. Started also with a Tubipora Musica which was offered to me by the store owner. It has been ok. Got a little bit of algae, but still looking good and growing.

After 3 months and after inserting some Acans, Zoanthus and an Euphylia, started appearing some weird algae. Dinos and cianos, where the worst and my acans started looking bad. Really affected by what happened. Since I could not get rid of them, I did a 5 days blackout. The dinos backed up almost completely and tha cianos died a bit. Most of the algae got weak and died, and the rest was still groiwng and after 5 days I noticed a bit more. Worried there could a boom again, last Saturday I got to another store and they advised me to use Microbe-lift Nite-out II. So I started as soon as I got home. Already after 4 days of use, I can see that it is going better.

Last week, I noticed some aiptasia, 2 of them already big on the base of the rock of my Euphylia. 2 others on one of my Acans.

What can I do to get rid of them?

I already read some interesting perspectives, but everyone of them as some other problems. Using Aiptasia-X can kill them but also make them expand faster... adding Aiptasia shrimp eaters can be a problem for my Zoanthus, and also they have to be in a group to really be efecctive. Injecting the Aiptasias with lemon or vinegar can also be a non effective measure since they will bust and spread faster.

So I would like to get some more opinnions on what is the more effective to erradicate aiptasias from my tank. 

Thank you for your time.

 

  • Like 2
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1 hour ago, Bruno_Soares said:

Hello,
My name is Bruno and I am from Lisbon, Portugal and this is my first saltwater tank, as the title says, is a Reef Tank.
I have been in the hobby for about 20 years and always had freshwater tanks. From 30 liter to 600 liter, I had some 20 tanks over the years. Last August I entered my local store to search for some plants for my tank I was about to remount and it hit me... now it´s a good time to start at saltwater.
My tank is a 70x40x40cm, 112 liter tank, about 29,5 gallon tank. I believe it is a bit small for starters but since I already had it, took it as the best choice for now.
So, I bought the following material by advice of my local store.

- Aqua Illumination Prime HD (with Aqua Illumination Prime Tank Mount Black);
- Tunze Comline DOC Skimmer 9004;
- Tunze Turbelle Nanostream 6020;
- Sicce 150W Heater;
- Caribbean South Sea Base Rock 9 kg;
- Coral Sand 5 liters (bag of 5L but only used 2,5 liter, more or less);
- AquaForest Sea Salt 5kg;
- Fluval Epoxy 115g (asked the store owner for help since I had no experience with glueing the rocks);
- Fluval Hidrometer;
- Aquili RO System.

 

I began setting up the aquarium and by the 22nd of September I turned it all on... let the games begin.

I have been having some problems. I have started without inserting any kind of bacteria, which I reckognize was a mistake. At least for a beginner in saltwater. Never used any in freshwater. Started also with a Tubipora Musica which was offered to me by the store owner. It has been ok. Got a little bit of algae, but still looking good and growing.

After 3 months and after inserting some Acans, Zoanthus and an Euphylia, started appearing some weird algae. Dinos and cianos, where the worst and my acans started looking bad. Really affected by what happened. Since I could not get rid of them, I did a 5 days blackout. The dinos backed up almost completely and tha cianos died a bit. Most of the algae got weak and died, and the rest was still groiwng and after 5 days I noticed a bit more. Worried there could a boom again, last Saturday I got to another store and they advised me to use Microbe-lift Nite-out II. So I started as soon as I got home. Already after 4 days of use, I can see that it is going better.

Last week, I noticed some aiptasia, 2 of them already big on the base of the rock of my Euphylia. 2 others on one of my Acans.

What can I do to get rid of them?

I already read some interesting perspectives, but everyone of them as some other problems. Using Aiptasia-X can kill them but also make them expand faster... adding Aiptasia shrimp eaters can be a problem for my Zoanthus, and also they have to be in a group to really be efecctive. Injecting the Aiptasias with lemon or vinegar can also be a non effective measure since they will bust and spread faster.

So I would like to get some more opinnions on what is the more effective to erradicate aiptasias from my tank. 

Thank you for your time.

 

Welcome to Nano!

 

I don't think there is truth in aiptasia x spreading aiptasia.

Unfortunately aiptasia multiply on their own and can also move- sometimes in this hobby, we end up with rumors that start because of the wrong conclusion of the hobbyist(like bristle worms killing fish, no the fish was most likely already dead and owner discovered clean up crew cleaning up)

 

If aiptasia x isn't properly applied, the aiptasia will shrink into a hole and move, this can lead ppl to believe they have multiplied.

 

I have used aiptasia x and it's always worked. 

Turn of all water movement, applied aiptasia x onto aiptasia. Let sit 10- 15 mins, turn water movement back on. Sometimes it takes a few attempts but it works.

 

I tried peppermint shrimp, I lucked out to have them eat my corals. They can do this.

 

I believe @Tamberav has used boiling water to kill aiptasia.

 

 

The only way to confirm dino's is under a microscope and black out periods don't work on dino's.

 

 

In a new tank you often will see various algae stages but dino's come out of dormancy when there is a lack of biodiversity and nutrients in the tanks, they thrive in these conditions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 6
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1 hour ago, Bruno_Soares said:

Aqua Illumination Prime HD (with Aqua Illumination Prime Tank Mount Black);

As your tank appears to be about twice as long as it is wide, I'd suggest two lights instead of one.  Use one light on each side of the tank, and mount them at the proper height so that little or no light is "wasted" outside the tank.

 

1 hour ago, Bruno_Soares said:

Tunze Turbelle Nanostream 6020

Excellent choiuce for a pump, but no matter the pump you'll have better flow in the tank if you run two pumps and alternate them, as in the tides.  Run one for a few hours, then run the other one for a few hours -- back and forth.  Use (e.g.) two appliance timers.

 

1 hour ago, Bruno_Soares said:

Fluval Epoxy 115g (asked the store owner for help since I had no experience with glueing the rocks)

I've never liked attaching rocks to each other....I prefer to dry-stack.  Sometimes epoxy doesn't even hold, so becareful about what kind of shapes you create....I wouldn't make my structure overly dependent on it.

 

1 hour ago, Bruno_Soares said:

I have been having some problems. I have started without inserting any kind of bacteria, which I reckognize was a mistake. At least for a beginner in saltwater.

Well said.   Starting with live rock would have been the best way.

 

1 hour ago, Bruno_Soares said:

they advised me to use Microbe-lift Nite-out II.

That is a nitrate reducer as far as I know.   It's not going to help with algae in general....definitely not with the algae you have described so far.

 

Can you post what your current levels are for the Big 5?  (ca, alk, mg, no3 and po4)

 

Can you also post some closeups of the algae you have under white light?  As well as a full tank shot?

 

1 hour ago, Bruno_Soares said:

Last week, I noticed some aiptasia, 2 of them already big on the base of the rock of my Euphylia. 2 others on one of my Acans.

What can I do to get rid of them?

I already read some interesting perspectives, but everyone of them as some other problems. Using Aiptasia-X can kill them but also make them expand faster... adding Aiptasia shrimp eaters can be a problem for my Zoanthus, and also they have to be in a group to really be efecctive. Injecting the Aiptasias with lemon or vinegar can also be a non effective measure since they will bust and spread faster.

I had less luck with DIY methods, so that's not where I'd start.

 

Like Clown79 mentioned, Aiptasia X is proven and works VERY well.  Watch some videos on how to properly apply it and you'll be fine.  BIG anemones are easier to shoot than tiny ones, so you're lucky on that front.  BUT DO NOT WAIT ANY LONGER because just like pest algae they will spread if you ignore them.

 

 

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37 minutes ago, mcarroll said:

As your tank appears to be about twice as long as it is wide, I'd suggest two lights instead of one.  Use one light on each side of the tank, and mount them at the proper height so that little or no light is "wasted" outside the tank.

 

Excellent choiuce for a pump, but no matter the pump you'll have better flow in the tank if you run two pumps and alternate them, as in the tides.  Run one for a few hours, then run the other one for a few hours -- back and forth.  Use (e.g.) two appliance timers.

 

I've never liked attaching rocks to each other....I prefer to dry-stack.  Sometimes epoxy doesn't even hold, so becareful about what kind of shapes you create....I wouldn't make my structure overly dependent on it.

 

Well said.   Starting with live rock would have been the best way.

 

That is a nitrate reducer as far as I know.   It's not going to help with algae in general....definitely not with the algae you have described so far.

 

Can you post what your current levels are for the Big 5?  (ca, alk, mg, no3 and po4)

 

Can you also post some closeups of the algae you have under white light?  As well as a full tank shot?

 

I had less luck with DIY methods, so that's not where I'd start.

 

Like Clown79 mentioned, Aiptasia X is proven and works VERY well.  Watch some videos on how to properly apply it and you'll be fine.  BIG anemones are easier to shoot than tiny ones, so you're lucky on that front.  BUT DO NOT WAIT ANY LONGER because just like pest algae they will spread if you ignore them.

 

 

That's an odd dimensions 27"x15"x15"- or is it just me not remembering all the dimensions.

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Ya, I just draw up boiling water on the stove into a syringe (no needle) then sneak up and flood them and their hole with boiling water. They melt, I then pull back the syringe to remove the remains. I use this method because it is free and water is always available on tap 😉 Works like a charm for me.  Just be careful not to boil curious fish or inverts. 

  • Like 5
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Thank you all for your answers and personal experiences.

I glue 3 of them and one aiptasia reappeared.

The algae have receeded since I started using Microbe-lift Nite-out II. I used it, as recommended by the store, 10ml per 100 liter, every day for one week, and now only at the water changes, same quantity.

Ca - 420 mg/L

Mg - 1600 mg/L

Kh - 9

Ph - 8

No3 - 0 or near 0

PO4 - 0 or near 0

My corals are also closed. Zoanthus and Euphylia. Yesterday I changed the places of the ones that were closed and put them in a rock together. Get them higher closer to the light, hope that today they are looking better. 

The dimensions are of the aquarium I had available and that I was going to restarted and when I went to my local shop, looking for some new plants for it, it hit me and that is when I decided to change to saltwater. I have a few freshwater tanks, planted, shrimp tanks, and a community tank. 20 years experience that in saltwater are only worth for the pacience that we all got to have for dealing with the different problems along the way.

Next week this setup will be 4 months and I still haven´t got even close to where I wish i could be... I guess little by little I will get there, at least I hope so.

It started like this:

 

 

IMG_20190922_134947.jpg

IMG_20190922_163846.jpg

IMG_20190922_190822.jpg

  • Like 5
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You have algae because you have too little nitrates and phosphates. You're starving almost everything in the tank (including your corals), but the pest algaes can live in those extremely low-nutrient environments, and are sucking up what little nitrates and phosphates you do have. You need to increase nitrates and phosphates by feeding more and removing anything that's taking them out. That way, various species of non-pest algae will grow, and compete for space with your pest algaes. The thing to shoot for isn't sterility, it's biodiversity. The more types of algae you have, the harder it is for any one species to take over and cause problems. Additionally, increasing algae diversity and nutrient levels will allow for various small invertebrates to develop that will feed on the pest algaes. 

 

You should also add some live rock, if you can. That will introduce more biodiversity and algaes, which you didn't get from your dry rock. The reason the algae started when you added corals, is because those frags had algae on them. When the algae encountered your tank, the non-pest kinds didn't grow very much, because of the low nutrients, but the pest algaes went wild. 

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1 hour ago, Bruno_Soares said:

No3 - 0 or near 0

PO4 - 0 or near 0

This is going to prevent a lot more than algae from growing if you maintain it this way.....corals will be unhappy and can even die....much worse pest algae will be encouraged (see: dinoflagellates).

 

Stop using any product that removes nutrients from the system....the only exception would be a protein skimmer if you're using one....they aren't so efficient at removing nutrients that they can cause a problem.

 

With any luck your corals will recover.  👍

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The corals are closing and reacting poorly because you have no nutrients in the tank.

 

As mentioned by others, you need nutrients.

 

The 1 problem ppl have is thinking that algae is a problem, in large overrun quantities it is but small amounts are normal and beneficial.

 

In a new tank with dry rock, I highly recommend seeding the tank with pods and definitely not using nutrient reducers.

 

Phos/nitrate reduction is best done naturally and media use only when its necessary and with regular monitoring of parameters.

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On 1/8/2020 at 9:37 AM, Bruno_Soares said:

- Tunze Comline DOC Skimmer 9004;

 

I would turn off the skimmer for now while you're having these Dino issues.  Stop the water changes so that you stop feeding the Dino's.  Use mechanical and chemical (carbon) filtration instead.  You'll want the activated carbon to remove any toxins that the Dino's release.  Also siphon out the Dino's, you don't want to keep that crap in the tank to bother your corals and whatnot.

 

Biodiversity will be what defeats the Dino's in the end.  Adding Live Rock is a good idea.  I would focus on the following things to add biodiversity:  Add good bacteria/algae/macroalgae/copepods.  I use Tisbe copepods and Chaeto macroalgae (Note: I only use Chaeto because its beneficial for how I set up my system.)  The live rock is a good source for some of these as well, specifically the bacteria and algae.

 

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The dinos are gone... cianos almost or near all... some roundshaped inverts started showing in my glasses, small round like copepods or something that looks like them. I will try to get some pictures. Now I have a lot of them.

Can I had fosfate and nitrates, introducing some salts? I use them in my freshwater tanks for fertilizing the plants. I use among others, KNO3 for adding nitrates and K2PO4 for phosphates... do you think it will help in raising nitrates and phosphates without causing problems to the tank?

What would be the target?

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22 minutes ago, Bruno_Soares said:

I use among others, KNO3 for adding nitrates and K2PO4 for phosphates... do you think it will help in raising nitrates and phosphates without causing problems to the tank?

That's the right stuff.

 

Any suggestions on the bottle might work fine....but typically I'd recommend 5-10 ppm NO3 and 0.10 ppm for PO4.

 

I'd test and dose to maintain steady levels just as you would do with alkalinity....at least until green algae takes over.

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21 hours ago, mcarroll said:

That's the right stuff.

 

Any suggestions on the bottle might work fine....but typically I'd recommend 5-10 ppm NO3 and 0.10 ppm for PO4.

 

I'd test and dose to maintain steady levels just as you would do with alkalinity....at least until green algae takes over.

Thank you. Green algae started appearing in my tank, in some rocks, but only a bit. I will dose some nitrates and phosphates and test, so that I can control it better...

Thank you people.

What have I done... lost my acans and my Euphylia is looking like it is going to die... damn. Lessons learned... 

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2 hours ago, Bruno_Soares said:

Thank you. Green algae started appearing in my tank, in some rocks, but only a bit. I will dose some nitrates and phosphates and test, so that I can control it better...

Thank you people.

What have I done... lost my acans and my Euphylia is looking like it is going to die... damn. Lessons learned... 

We've all had these things happen. Don't feel too bad. 

 

Acans surprisingly can regrow just from a  Bit of flesh.

 

I had 1 recently purchased, was in great shape. Put it in my tank at the bottom, next day most flesh was gone. Have no idea why. 

 

Its repairing itself and regrowing flesh in my frag tank. 

 

I've seen a few acans and chalice repair. 

 

I have not had that luck with euphyllia.

 

Feeding them lightly can help.

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17 hours ago, Clown79 said:

Acans surprisingly can regrow just from a  Bit of flesh.

From my red Acan, survived one head, and is sitting in the rock, and I saw one head from my green one (which also died) somewhere beind the rocks. I hope I can grab it and put them together. Hope they can survive... and my Euphylia was looking great before the lights out...

I still don´t have a quarantine tank. What do I need to get one woorking properly? I have a 30 liter tank (50x25x25) and a 60 liter (60x30x35). What could be the best for this purpose?

I know... "Don´t cry over spilled milk"... I just can´t.... and it is not about the money. They were beautifull. What a lost. I will post photos of my Euphylia as soon as I get them from my mobile.

IMG_20191025_214127.jpg

IMG_20191025_214227.jpg

IMG_20191025_214555.jpg

IMG_20191108_191306.jpg

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The corals just look irritated, slightly closed up.

 

Could be from lack of nutrients, too much light, or even too much flow.

 

Otherwise they aren't dead, there is lots of flesh.

 

Do you feed them?

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20 hours ago, Tired said:

What's that stuff around them in the last picture? It looks almost like bleached hair algae or some strange fungal growth. 

Chrysophytes, as far as we can tell so far.

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On 1/17/2020 at 9:44 PM, Clown79 said:

The corals just look irritated, slightly closed up.

 

Could be from lack of nutrients, too much light, or even too much flow.

 

Otherwise they aren't dead, there is lots of flesh.

 

Do you feed them?

That pictures is when they were inserted in the aquarium. They are dead now... unfortunetly.

 

 

 

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Yup. 

 

I dunno if Chrysophytes are famous for it, but it's fairly common for algae or submerged plants to bubble.

 

They apparently need a lot of electrons for the process of photosynthesis and that apparently frees up a lot of oxygen from the H2O.

 

More reading:

Photosynthesis--The Photo Part - plantphys.info

 

 

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On 1/8/2020 at 9:37 AM, Bruno_Soares said:

Hello,
My name is Bruno and I am from Lisbon, Portugal and this is my first saltwater tank, as the title says, is a Reef Tank.
I have been in the hobby for about 20 years and always had freshwater tanks. From 30 liter to 600 liter, I had some 20 tanks over the years. Last August I entered my local store to search for some plants for my tank I was about to remount and it hit me... now it´s a good time to start at saltwater.
My tank is a 70x40x40cm, 112 liter tank, about 29,5 gallon tank. I believe it is a bit small for starters but since I already had it, took it as the best choice for now.
So, I bought the following material by advice of my local store.

- Aqua Illumination Prime HD (with Aqua Illumination Prime Tank Mount Black);
- Tunze Comline DOC Skimmer 9004;
- Tunze Turbelle Nanostream 6020;
- Sicce 150W Heater;
- Caribbean South Sea Base Rock 9 kg;
- Coral Sand 5 liters (bag of 5L but only used 2,5 liter, more or less);
- AquaForest Sea Salt 5kg;
- Fluval Epoxy 115g (asked the store owner for help since I had no experience with glueing the rocks);
- Fluval Hidrometer;
- Aquili RO System.

 

I began setting up the aquarium and by the 22nd of September I turned it all on... let the games begin.

I have been having some problems. I have started without inserting any kind of bacteria, which I reckognize was a mistake. At least for a beginner in saltwater. Never used any in freshwater. Started also with a Tubipora Musica which was offered to me by the store owner. It has been ok. Got a little bit of algae, but still looking good and growing.

After 3 months and after inserting some Acans, Zoanthus and an Euphylia, started appearing some weird algae. Dinos and cianos, where the worst and my acans started looking bad. Really affected by what happened. Since I could not get rid of them, I did a 5 days blackout. The dinos backed up almost completely and tha cianos died a bit. Most of the algae got weak and died, and the rest was still groiwng and after 5 days I noticed a bit more. Worried there could a boom again, last Saturday I got to another store and they advised me to use Microbe-lift Nite-out II. So I started as soon as I got home. Already after 4 days of use, I can see that it is going better.

Last week, I noticed some aiptasia, 2 of them already big on the base of the rock of my Euphylia. 2 others on one of my Acans.

What can I do to get rid of them?

I already read some interesting perspectives, but everyone of them as some other problems. Using Aiptasia-X can kill them but also make them expand faster... adding Aiptasia shrimp eaters can be a problem for my Zoanthus, and also they have to be in a group to really be efecctive. Injecting the Aiptasias with lemon or vinegar can also be a non effective measure since they will bust and spread faster.

So I would like to get some more opinnions on what is the more effective to erradicate aiptasias from my tank. 

Thank you for your time.

 

I am sorry no advice but I have a question.  I have been trying to cycle little over a month but had spread rock and live sand.  Lots of problems just cycling!  Did you add you coral after you were cycled?  How long didi you wait.  I am thinking af adding a few corals soon after I cycle but I have even been told not to run light after adding fish for a while, that is using bacteria to start.  You would have caught a lot of flackin here if you did that I am a newbie and they seam to be very old fashioned with the process!  I have been trolled by a few even,just asking questions on cycling!

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