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Seadragon

Seadragon's 10g Office Nano Reef: Simple. No Water Changes. No Carbon.

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Tired

Your best bet on those is to increase nutrients, to let other algaes increase. If you up your biodiversity, those will pretty much die out, from competition via other algaes and direct predation by an assortment of creatures. They'll never be wiped out completely, they're a normal part of most reefs, but they'll go down to levels where you won't notice them any. 

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Clown79

I defeated dino's with no waterchanges, adding pods, and increasing nutrients. I didn't see a difference until I added the pods and phyto dosed.

 

It took my phos to be above 0.08 and nitrates at 5 before they started improving but when I added the pods and phyto dosed was the major improvement. No joke within a few days.

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j.falk
4 hours ago, Clown79 said:

Dino and peroxide doesn't work for them, makes it worse.

There are some people over on Reef2Reef that swear that peroxide worked for them.  I'm a bit skeptical about the claims.

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Seadragon
4 hours ago, Clown79 said:

Dino and peroxide doesn't work for them, makes it worse.

 

Most snails won't touch them because they can be toxic.

 

 

 

What do you suggest then?  I noticed the Chaeto in the School Nano Reef is getting smaller ever since she removed the fuge LED light.

 

I was thinking of doing the following:

1. Siphon out as much Dino's as possible.

2. Turn off the main LED light until this weekend.

3. Reinstall and Turn on the refugium LED light to get the Chaeto growing again -- the idea here is for the Chaeto to out compete the Dino's.

4. Stop using tap water for top offs and change to Distilled Water (with Marine Conditioner added for safety) from now on.

5. Dose 1 ml per 10 gallons of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide for one month.  What do you think the ill effects of this would be?  I noticed when googling that a lot of websites suggest this low dosing of Hydrogen Peroxide -- some see it clear up within 3-4 days.

6. Add 3 large Zebra Turbo Snails to the school reef -- only because I need them out of my tank and her tank has other algae issues as well.

 

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Seadragon

I just noticed the 5th page of replies. 😄  Yep, so at least we know I won't be doing water changes. 😉

 

I'll work on getting the macro algae growing again and siphoning out as much Dino's as possible and go from there.

 

 

UPDATE: All future updates regarding the School Nano Reef and the Dino situation can be found here:

 

 

Edited by Seadragon
Added Link to new School Nano Reef thread for updates on the Dino situation.

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Amphrites
1 hour ago, j.falk said:

There are some people over on Reef2Reef that swear that peroxide worked for them.  I'm a bit skeptical about the claims.

It depends on the species, there's so bloody many that even keeping nutrients up doesn't necessarily work for all of them. Dinox only works on a few, peroxide only works on a few, out competing them with elevated nutrients and other algae's works for most. Some really do require manual-removal or other extra steps though, especially those which are thick and stay-low on your rockwork and sandbed, it can take months to get rid of them and just a few days for them to come back. Those dino threads are long, but pretty interesting reads - makes you feel quite lucky to be able to shake a bloom in less than a month doing things which didn't start to have a noticeable-effect on other tanks for 6 or more...

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Clown79
1 hour ago, j.falk said:

There are some people over on Reef2Reef that swear that peroxide worked for them.  I'm a bit skeptical about the claims.

Peroxide does kill things but not dino.

It was actually tested and dino's multiplied.

 

I tried it myself. Yup, they worsened.

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Clown79
14 minutes ago, Seadragon said:

 

What do you suggest then?  I noticed the Chaeto in the School Nano Reef is getting smaller ever since she removed the fuge LED light.

 

I was thinking of doing the following:

1. Siphon out as much Dino's as possible.

2. Turn off the main LED light until this weekend.

3. Reinstall and Turn on the refugium LED light to get the Chaeto growing again -- the idea here is for the Chaeto to out compete the Dino's.

4. Stop using tap water for top offs and change to Distilled Water (with Marine Conditioner added for safety) from now on.

5. Dose 1 ml per 10 gallons of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide for one month.  What do you think the ill effects of this would be?  I noticed when googling that a lot of websites suggest this low dosing of Hydrogen Peroxide -- some see it clear up within 3-4 days.

6. Add 3 large Zebra Turbo Snails to the school reef -- only because I need them out of my tank and her tank has other algae issues as well.

 

Black outs are bandaids, they don't work on dino.

 

Peroxide is one of the worst things to do with the majority of dino because it kills off the micro organisms that compete with dino(bacteria and pods)

 

Snails don't eat dino, if anything most die from dino.

 

Without a fuge light, cheato will die. It needs light and nutrients.

 

Tap water is usually not advised for reefs.

 

In order to get dino back into dormant stage, you have to find out what dino you have. You need to check under microscope.

 

Most successful hobbyists that got rid of dino- increase nutrients(they come out of dormancy due to lack of nutrients and biodiversity)

 

The steps I took are too long to list. It's in my lagoon thread on the 7th page. 

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j.falk
1 hour ago, Clown79 said:

I tried it myself. Yup, they worsened.

You're braver than me.  I thought about trying it...but just couldn't do it without knowing exactly what might happen...especially considering a lot of people use peroxide to kill things off of live rock.

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j.falk

@Seadragon  When I had dinos a few months back I followed @Clown79's steps almost to a t and my dinos were gone in less than a month...and mine looked exactly like the photo you posted.  Long stringy brown snot looking strands coming out of the sand and working their way up my rock work.  

 

There was one major thing I did that Clown79 didn't do.  I bought two big fully established pieces of live rock and 1 cup of dirty sand from a local reefer and added them to my tank.  That brought in all kinds of new biodiversity that I didn't have while using only Marco dry rock and dry sand.  I think that is what really helped me get rid of my dinos along with Clown79's dino eradication plan.

 

If you know of anyone local that keeps saltwater aquariums...see if they'll sell you some of their rocks and sand.  It will help.

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Clown79
30 minutes ago, j.falk said:

@Seadragon  When I had dinos a few months back I followed @Clown79's steps almost to a t and my dinos were gone in less than a month...and mine looked exactly like the photo you posted.  Long stringy brown snot looking strands coming out of the sand and working their way up my rock work.  

 

There was one major thing I did that Clown79 didn't do.  I bought two big fully established pieces of live rock and 1 cup of dirty sand from a local reefer and added them to my tank.  That brought in all kinds of new biodiversity that I didn't have while using only Marco dry rock and dry sand.  I think that is what really helped me get rid of my dinos along with Clown79's dino eradication plan.

 

If you know of anyone local that keeps saltwater aquariums...see if they'll sell you some of their rocks and sand.  It will help.

I didn't add liverock because most of the rock in my tank was liverock. I have only a few pieces of dry rock in my tank. It was started with 80% liverock. 

 

I did add a small rock from a friends tank but never noted it because it made no difference to my situation.

 

My problem was always low nutrients, been a struggle to keep it up. 

 

 

I've spot treated with small amounts of 3% peroxide on gha with no ill effects.

 

I dosed my 5g with it for gha and bryopsis, it worked well and no ill effects.

 

When I first got dino, I thought it was something else and started dosing peroxide...ya that made them so much worse and stopped as soon as I realized what I was dealing with and how badly peroxide is for it.

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Amphrites

H2O2 worked on my first little dino and chrysophyte bloom, but it opened the gates for a much-more resilient strain of dino to step in and take the place of both. Overall I think micro-dosing peroxide in a healthy tank is probably beneficial, but I would avoid aggressive systemic-dosing in favor of spot treatments via tubing and an inverted medicine-cup or external-application.

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