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ReefAdoRe

ReefADoRe’s Biocube 16g - A very hard journey

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Ratvan
17 minutes ago, ReefAdoRe said:

What r your thoughts on a CUC upgrade? 

As many different types as possible. Each will eat a different algae, I'd go for Cerith, Trocus and Turbo to start with. Start with a couple and add more slowly over time. You'll have less and less maintenance to do eventually. Spare shells for the hermits as well otherwise they will squabble and harass the snails too. 

 

 

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ReefAdoRe

So I cleaned my rock (I think this is easy to do because my tank is tiny; wouldn’t expect someone with much more rock to go through that trouble). I’m going to continue doing this at least every other day if the algae keeps coming back, while testing the perimeters to see what’s actually causing this. I’ll keep everyone updated. I wanted to do this before it got way out of control like last time. 

The top pic is a “before” in case you were not following. 

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ReefAdoRe
5 hours ago, ReefAdoRe said:

So I cleaned my rock (I think this is easy to do because my tank is tiny; wouldn’t expect someone with much more rock to go through that trouble). I’m going to continue doing this at least every other day if the algae keeps coming back, while testing the perimeters to see what’s actually causing this. I’ll keep everyone updated. I wanted to do this before it got way out of control like last time. 

The top pic is a “before” in case you were not following. 

6A08191B-9764-4C15-B92E-32224C43772E.jpeg

4141FAE5-5E6F-45C4-B7D0-4571A5DA957A.jpeg

86C68924-3384-4F7B-9E7F-A9EC7A0CEB82.jpeg

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Learning:

 

after i I cleaned the rock and put it back in I had an ammonia spike. .50 ppm. 

 

Dosed with prime. Haven’t had a spike for 2 weeks. 

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Tired

That was potentially from disturbing your sandbed, I'd think. 

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Wonderboy

The rock looks a lot better, but it's not what you can see that you're trying to balance out, is it? I think it is okay that you cleaned the rock just this once like that, but it is critical that you get more CUC in there before it grows back. Also, that you're suggesting to do it multiple times every other day very much worries me. The algae is not your issue, in fact it is keeping your issue at bay. You're issue is excess nutrients - from fish and invert poop. If you don't persist in getting things in there to compete with that nutrient availablity and more CUC to eat eat what you don't want to see, you will continue to keep seeing it. It is very clear that you are experiencing an ammonia spike from disturing your bacteria population on the rock; if you are lucky, hopefully there is enough bacteria still present in the entirety of the system to convert any inevitable nitrite to nitrate quickly enough to prevent another crash - just because something is easy, does not make it reasonable. Ammonia is not very toxic when dissolved in water, but nitrite, that is something you need to watch for - an ammonia badge will tell you when to test for nitrite and only then maybe you should add Prime - or better, do a large WC and add seed bacteria. I think read that you're running like 16 hrs of blue light - that is waaaaaay too much for your current photosynthetic demands. It seems that you have gotten some very useful advise so far as to how to handle the current situation; I suggest taking the time to evaluate the reason behind these:

 

On 9/15/2019 at 9:17 PM, banasophia said:

Have you considered using Biospira? If it was me I would pour in a bottle of Biospira and add a bag of Matrix media to the back chamber rather than using the Stability + Prime. 

I agree with this very much - Prime is wonderful to have for emergencies, but I don't see any emergency here - utilizing it constantly WILL constantly disturb the natural nitrogen cycle - adding seed bacteria on the contrary and allowing for time is far far, far more efficient in the end.

 

On 9/17/2019 at 3:51 AM, mcarroll said:

If you really are starting over, I would consider finding a new home for the clowns while you do it – even if it's a temporary home.   Unless your quarantine system is really really nice I would not subject them to that for so much time.

It seems to me that you essentially did start over and are attempting to cycle with fish - this would go smother with seed bacteria

On 9/17/2019 at 3:51 AM, mcarroll said:

Start small, with snails.  

 

Work your way slowly up to stocking corals, and more cleanup crew when algae grows.

 

THEN fish.  

 

Really, if the tank is not stable yet, it is worth considering the life; the LFS will probably credit you for livestock that is in good condition.

 

On 9/24/2019 at 2:10 AM, Ratvan said:

upgrading your CuC will help with this, snails are no use for long algae, but they love fresh growing "nubbins". Keep the algae short and the snails will help you out. 

If you haven't tried this yet, +1 from me, do not wait to start slowly adding to the CUC  - hermits particularly.

 

IMO, this place is far more useful for gathering information than it is for cataloguing. Hoping that your influences can help clear things up from here  :]

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Txplicit

I've been having the same issue battling gha and brown diatoms.  Like you, I started early July, ran the full cycle till nitrates went to zero then test phosphates to barely measurable at .2ppm.  However, I was still getting blooms.  Ran the light schedule like you with a cheap Chinese black box.  Since, I have upgraded to radion xr15 pro shortened schedule.  It has helped, but still getting blooms.  Running a chaeto refugium hang on the back that I haven't gotten dialed in just yet.  I added a lawnmower blenny that is helping.  

 

I too am fighting algae.  These are steps I took and hope it will help you.  As I further advance and if I find a permanent solution, I will notify and update.  I am also going to try bio spira that is suggested here.  

 

Good luck on your battle.  Don't give up.  It's just algae.  Btw my parameters and stocking:

 

Ammonia: 0 (fluctuates but never exceeds 12)

Nitrite: 0

Nitrate: 3 (also fluctuates but never saw it higher than 10)

Phosphate: 0.2 

 

2 clownfish

1 watchman goby

1 purple firefish

1 lawnmower

1 cleaner shrimp that has molten twice since last week when I added him.

3 blue leg hermits, 2 nassarius, 3 turbo snails

 

Feed every 2 days 1/3 frozen mysis fortified with garlic and amino acid.

 

Water changes 10% every week, change carbon monthly, and filter floss every week.

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Tired

Sorry, ammonia of 12? And nothing is dead or dying of it?

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ReefAdoRe
2 hours ago, Tired said:

Sorry, ammonia of 12? And nothing is dead or dying of it?

Must have been a typo. 

 

Ammonia is now: 0 it was .50

nitrite: 0

nitrate: 0

 

none dead or dying. 

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ReefAdoRe
8 hours ago, Txplicit said:

I've been having the same issue battling gha and brown diatoms.  Like you, I started early July, ran the full cycle till nitrates went to zero then test phosphates to barely measurable at .2ppm.  However, I was still getting blooms.  Ran the light schedule like you with a cheap Chinese black box.  Since, I have upgraded to radion xr15 pro shortened schedule.  It has helped, but still getting blooms.  Running a chaeto refugium hang on the back that I haven't gotten dialed in just yet.  I added a lawnmower blenny that is helping.  

 

I too am fighting algae.  These are steps I took and hope it will help you.  As I further advance and if I find a permanent solution, I will notify and update.  I am also going to try bio spira that is suggested here.  

 

Good luck on your battle.  Don't give up.  It's just algae.  Btw my parameters and stocking:

 

Ammonia: 0 (fluctuates but never exceeds 12)

Nitrite: 0

Nitrate: 3 (also fluctuates but never saw it higher than 10)

Phosphate: 0.2 

 

2 clownfish

1 watchman goby

1 purple firefish

1 lawnmower

1 cleaner shrimp that has molten twice since last week when I added him.

3 blue leg hermits, 2 nassarius, 3 turbo snails

 

Feed every 2 days 1/3 frozen mysis fortified with garlic and amino acid.

 

Water changes 10% every week, change carbon monthly, and filter floss every week.

Seachem has a product called “stability” works like a charm to stabilize and colonize I have found better than BIO-Spira. I have used both. 

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Txplicit

Since posting. I have added a new pump to chaeto refugium AND nano mini max gfo reactor with seachem phosban.  I know phosban will break down, but the hc gfo from bulkreef won't be here till wednesday.  I'll switch to high cap bulk reef gfo when it gets here.  

 

Will test again tonight, then do a 10% water change then post my findings for you.  

 

As of now, I am seeing less gha on rocks (maybe the lawnmower blenny going to work).

 

Hopefully, I find a solution that will not only help me, but everyone else looking for that stable solution.  

 

On a side note, I witnessed my Lawnmower blenny poop a long ole green log.  I swear I would have thought it was a worm or something if I had not seen it come out of him as he swam away.  😂

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Txplicit

Did a test before water change after 1 day of gfo reactor and hob chaeto fuge addition.

 

The algae seems to be depleting a bit.  So now the patience game.  I'll repost thursday after I swap the phosban for the high cap gfo in the reactor.  

 

After I did the WC today, nitrate dropped to 8 and phosphates dropped to .15.

 

Crossing my fingers this is a step in the right direction.  

 

 

 

Screenshot_20190930-014631_AquaticLog.jpg

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Txplicit

So far, the refugium/gfo reactor is really doing wonders.  I am still getting a little bit of algae, but that's expected has I have a 2"sand bed and notifying bacteria is probably breaking down decay and detritus in it.  On top of that, I honestly think my tank wasn't fully cycled after 2.5 months.  

 

All said and done, I believe things are stable enough to start sticking.

 

I recommend the combination of a hob refugium for chaeto and pods AND gfo reactor.  If you have little space, then at least the gfo reactor.  It should lower your phosphates and lower algae woes.

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ReefAdoRe
On 10/7/2019 at 7:31 PM, Txplicit said:

So far, the refugium/gfo reactor is really doing wonders.  I am still getting a little bit of algae, but that's expected has I have a 2"sand bed and notifying bacteria is probably breaking down decay and detritus in it.  On top of that, I honestly think my tank wasn't fully cycled after 2.5 months.  

 

All said and done, I believe things are stable enough to start sticking.

 

I recommend the combination of a hob refugium for chaeto and pods AND gfo reactor.  If you have little space, then at least the gfo reactor.  It should lower your phosphates and lower algae woes.

Thank you for keeping me updated though out all this. It helps us to learn more and more. 
 

my phosphates are at 0 as well as all of my other readings. This is why I can’t figure out why I am getting GHA. 
 

I kind of feel like it was in the spores from the rock when my tank crashed. I just didn’t want to get rid of that rock ( I kinda love it). 
 

so I am trying Blue Flux RX. I will post pics of every day. 

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ReefAdoRe

DAY 1: Blue Flux RX

 

Today is my first day dosing with this as I have been battling GHA.  I have kept up with all of my maintenance, scrubbed down the tank, and restarted it.  It came back; I scrubbed the rock two weeks ago, and it is back longer than ever.  

 

All of readings are at 0:

Phosphate: 0

Ammonia: 0 

Nitrite: 0 

Nitrate: 0 

 

My test kits are good, I have two to compare.  

 

The Blue Flux says it can take 10-14 days with protein skimmer off.  I completed a 15% water change today before dosing.  I will keep everyone updated on the tank as the days pass.  

 

 

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EA58BC88-C2EA-4E28-8362-C7DDB0DA481F.jpeg

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ReefAdoRe
Just now, ReefAdoRe said:

Blue Flux RX

 

Today is my first day dosing with this as I have been battling GHA.  I have kept up with all of my maintenance, scrubbed down the tank, and restarted it.  It came back; I scrubbed the rock two weeks ago, and it is back longer than ever.  

 

All of readings are at 0:

Phosphate: 0

Ammonia: 0 

Nitrite: 0 

Nitrate: 0 

 

My test kits are good, I have two to compare.  

 

The Blue Flux says it can take 10-14 days with protein skimmer off.  I completed a 15% water change today before dosing.  I will keep everyone updated on the tank as the days pass.  

 

 

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I was hoping that this problem would go away with really strict maintenance habits, but it has not.  I believe that the rock from when my tank crashed just had the remnants of GHA within the pores of the rock and hence why it came back.  I will still continue my maintenance after the 10-14 day mark depending on what the results are.  

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Tired

I'd stop scrubbing the rock. One thing that can help with algaes is the growth of other algae, which can out-compete them for space.

 

Your best bet is a combination of manual removal and algae-eaters to help get it under control, so something else can sprout. Also, you may want to try less water changes, to give the other algae nutrients and help it get started. I see you don't have much other algae growing. The ideal is to have as much biodiversity as possible, so the algaes wind up competing with each other for space and nutrients and keep any one species from going too nuts. Plus, it looks nice.

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ReefAdoRe
18 minutes ago, Tired said:

I'd stop scrubbing the rock. One thing that can help with algaes is the growth of other algae, which can out-compete them for space.

 

Your best bet is a combination of manual removal and algae-eaters to help get it under control, so something else can sprout. Also, you may want to try less water changes, to give the other algae nutrients and help it get started. I see you don't have much other algae growing. The ideal is to have as much biodiversity as possible, so the algaes wind up competing with each other for space and nutrients and keep any one species from going too nuts. Plus, it looks nice.

I scrubbed the rock one time, but I probably will not do it again.  I pretty much only have the GHA on the rock; I just don’t want it to get out of control like it did before when my tank crashed.  

 

“try less water changes”: should I change water changes to bi-weekly?  Everything I have seen on YouTube, and just reading through forums says to up the maintenance schedule... 

“ideal is to have as much biodiversity as possible” - what do you mean by biodiversity?  

 

Thank you do much for your response.  😀

 

 

 

 

 

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Ratvan

Biodiversity usually refers to dosing phytoplankton and some form of pods. Usually tisbe or general copepod. 

 

They're useful for keeping unwanted blooms in check.

 

With the gha pinch sections off so your cuc can eat the holdfasts on the rock, it'll be clear after a while.

 

Water changes is up to you, I tend to go by eye, when things look "off" I'll do a small 10-20% change.

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Tired

If you want it off the rocks, pull it off with tweezers or your hands, since that won't hurt the other things on the algae. 

 

If your nitrates and phosphates are actually 0, then they're at 0. Water changes remove excess phosphates and nitrates, and if you have too much of those, more water changes will help. If you have 0 of those, water changes won't help, because there's no excess to be removed.

 

Biodiversity is, well, diversity of biology. You want to have a lot of different species of things. Multiple types of worms and micro stars and whatnot to clean the detritus, multiple types of algae so none of them can go out of control. If you have, say, 10 types of microalgae, they're competing with each other, and it's harder for any one of them to just cover everything like this is. If you look at a mature aquarium, it's full of different colors of algae, and (though they're less visible) often many types of bacteria and microfauna. This ensures that, if something happens that makes one species not do as well, there are other things to pick up the slack of cleanup or space-occupying. 

Basically, you want to encourage other, different kinds of algae to grow, so there will be fewer areas of clear rock for things to grow on. You also want to have multiple species of copepods and other creatures that eat algae and keep things clean. 

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Wonderboy

I agree with @Tired - you have excess hair algae from lack of predation and competition (biodiversity). I strongly suggest that you stop stressing about it being there because that will usually make it worse. It is a natural process - the tank is responding to the circumstance in the most reasonable way for it at the moment. In my opinion, the Blue Flux Rx sounds like a waste of money because it's working time [in my experience] is about how long it usually takes for pest algaes to clear up all by themselves hahaha. I would avoid any of those quick fix trix and start working towards a system that can maintain itself - it doesn't actually take very much time once you realize that you can occupy yourself with other matters. Sure, the fluconazole will likely work, but what's going to keep it from coming back?? More fluconazole?? Yeah, I would just skip to getting something to eat the available natural food source being produced (GHA). If you don't want algae to bother you, stop worrying about it, add competition (coral and macro aglae) and grazers (hermits, snails, sally light foot), I agree with less WCs so other species (what are you waiting for, add corals lol) can get a hold of some nutrients, and let time do the maintenance. I also agree with @Ratvan - the simplest form of competitors that you can add is phyto and pods (especially phyto). Lastly, I think there's a lot of info to learn from Youtube and other threads, but at the same time, there's undoubtably more information that should be deleted from Youtube and other threads.

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ReefAdoRe

Day 2 Blue Flux RX:

 

586CED17-FD1F-428F-9EBE-265E66A7A514.jpeg

C3BB6F9F-B44E-4EA8-A4DE-2AE6D8095552.jpeg
 

Day 3:

 

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E73DDCC3-586B-4A93-99CA-B4EBFEA24399.jpeg

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Tired

Well, it looks like it may be helping a little, but you still need to balance things. That algae showed up for a reason, and that reason was lack of competition and predation. You need to get that competition and predation going, or you're going to have more hair algae in the future, or something worse.

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ReefAdoRe
1 hour ago, Tired said:

Well, it looks like it may be helping a little, but you still need to balance things. That algae showed up for a reason, and that reason was lack of competition and predation. You need to get that competition and predation going, or you're going to have more hair algae in the future, or something worse.

Since I had already started there’s no going back now. But I am MOST DEF going to take all of your advice into consideration. No one ever brought that to my attention and once again I learned something new that I am super grateful for. 

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ReefAdoRe
On 10/11/2019 at 7:51 PM, ReefAdoRe said:

Since I had already started there’s no going back now. But I am MOST DEF going to take all of your advice into consideration. No one ever brought that to my attention and once again I learned something new that I am super grateful for. 

So I looked up “biodiversity” and this was truly enlightening for me! Learning how to manage perimeters and stability in your tank with copepods and such WOW! I will be ordering some of this and start around November dosing. I’ll capture the info on my journal here. 

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ReefAdoRe

Sharing one week exactly after dosing Blue Flux RX to help get rid of GHA???:  It states can take 10-14 days, however, I feel like it has gotten worse.  Please view days prior in thread.  The only difference I see is that the GHA is turning whitish in color.  

 

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