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GrumpyDaddy68

Beginners questions (Algae and Skimming)

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GrumpyDaddy68

Hi All,

 

I am new in the hobby and I have a few questions I hope some of you guys can help me with:

Note: I have a IM25 lagoon  that has been officially running with fish only for about 5 weeks now (for different reasons I had it cycling for 3 months).

 

- I have started seen some green spots here and there; I'm guessing these are some kind of algae. Am I correct?

- The skimmer is one of those new IM DC Desktop and it's been running for about 2-3 weeks; however, the skim looks kind of wet and clear.

 

I only have two small clownfish and the bio load is really load (I feed them once a day with Hikari Marine S pellets and once or twice a week with Reef Frenzy Nano (LRS).

 

The water parameters look OK for what I can tell: Ammonia - 0, Nitrite - 0 and Nitrates between 0-5, Phosphates are also close to 0.

 

I did never really had a diatom bloom so I don't have a clean up crew yet (I'm afraid if I add them they won't have enough food).

 

Note: I have been changing about 25% water every two weeks and 5-10% in between.

 

Does this look ok to you guys?

 

Like I said I am new and I am not sure if all these is normal.

 

Thanks in advance for all your comments.

 

I have added a couple screenshots (algae and skim).

 

 

 

IMG_4904.jpg

IMG_4905.jpg

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Fish_Wiz

Yep, that's green cyano. It's really bacteria that uses light as a food source on top of your tank's nutrients, spreads rapidly if conditions are right. Next time you do a water change, siphon it out. I'm battling red cyano myself in my tank as my seahorses are messy and picky eaters so my nutrients run wild.

 

Also skimmer looks fine, it is skimming a bit wet (hence the clear watery look), try lowering the black O-ring on the cup and see if the skimmate gets darker.

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GrumpyDaddy68

Thanks, should I turn the lights off for a while?

Thanks,

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BioCube Newb

since its a fish only tank it certainly wouldn't hurt, cyano does have a specific treatment but I'm not versed enough with it to give you solid advice

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Clown79

How much flow is in the tank? Dead zones lead to cyano as well.

 

As mentioned, sucking it out is a good idea, you can also do it in between waterchanges with a tutkey baster.

 

What's are you using in the back chambers for filtration?

 

0 nitrate and 0 phos isn't optimal.

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GrumpyDaddy68

Hi Clown,

 

I though being a fish only tank I wouldn't need much flow... but, I am using the stock pump for return and I have an Aqamai (KPS) on the front.

 

I will syphon as much as I can during water changes.

 

On the back I have filter fluss both sides and skimmer only. I have not add carbon since my water looks clear (I have Chemipure ready).

 

How could I increase Nitrate and Phosphates to an optimal level?

 

Thanks,

 

 

 

 

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Clown79
4 hours ago, GrumpyDaddy68 said:

Hi Clown,

 

I though being a fish only tank I wouldn't need much flow... but, I am using the stock pump for return and I have an Aqamai (KPS) on the front.

 

I will syphon as much as I can during water changes.

 

On the back I have filter fluss both sides and skimmer only. I have not add carbon since my water looks clear (I have Chemipure ready).

 

How could I increase Nitrate and Phosphates to an optimal level?

 

Thanks,

 

 

 

 

Increased feeding or buying products to dose nitrates and phosphates.

 

How often is the floss being changed?

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GrumpyDaddy68

I will increase feeding...

 

I change floss every 3-4 days.

 

I will also probably siphon and do a 50% water change to start ( I have also an extra powerhead that I will add).

 

Thanks,

Jorge

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xM3THODx

your tank is still pretty young and may start to go through the ugly stage with diatoms and cyano, but that's okay.  The skimmate looks pretty wet...it's a preference of having it wet to dry(thick) foam, but having it wet like that means the collection cup will fill up faster and cleaned more often. Make an adjustment and find where you like it. 

 

In my current tank, I never wanted to deal with Cyanobacteria so I opted to fight bad bacteria with good through probiotics and not with chemiclean or similar products. I haven't had one incident ever with cyano. 

 

 

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GrumpyDaddy68

I siphoned as much as I could and I did a ~50% water change. I also added a second powerhead to add flow. The clowns were quite stressed for all the stir and movement... but they were OK this morning.

 

xM3thoDx,

I have adjusted the skimmer and it's not as wet as before but it's sill quite clear (that is good, right?).

What kind of probiotics do you dose to your tank? Would they work for a fish only tank?

I just bought chemiclean but that will be the last resource.

 

 

 

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Opotter
16 hours ago, xM3THODx said:

In my current tank, I never wanted to deal with Cyanobacteria so I opted to fight bad bacteria with good through probiotics and not with chemiclean or similar products. I haven't had one incident ever with cyano. 

I have a new tank cycling (first set up with dry rock).. also interested as well on what you are using for a probiotic! Your reasoning seems really sound.

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Clown79
1 hour ago, GrumpyDaddy68 said:

I siphoned as much as I could and I did a ~50% water change. I also added a second powerhead to add flow. The clowns were quite stressed for all the stir and movement... but they were OK this morning.

 

xM3thoDx,

I have adjusted the skimmer and it's not as wet as before but it's sill quite clear (that is good, right?).

What kind of probiotics do you dose to your tank? Would they work for a fish only tank?

I just bought chemiclean but that will be the last resource.

 

 

 

There is no need for probiotics. Your waterchanges and salt provide what the tank needs. The only good thing to do is dose alk and ca when that time comes.

 

Otherwise, stick to the basics. Keep things simple.

 

Systems that run on additional additives are usually done in mature systems by experienced hobbyists and if there tank needs it.

 

The most important factor of a new tank is getting it stable and keeping it there.

 

No over use of media or equipment. Its extremely easy for a new system to become imbalanced and bigger problems arise.

Over cleaning leads to this as well.

 

Go through members journals and Totm's. See the success that many have running their tanks on basics.

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GrumpyDaddy68

Clown79,

 

Do I need to dose ALK and CA for a fish only tank? or this is only when moving to corals?

 

I only keep track on: Ammonia, Nitrates, Nitrites, PH and Phosphate. Should I be monitoring something else?

 

Thanks,

 

 

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xM3THODx
5 hours ago, GrumpyDaddy68 said:

I siphoned as much as I could and I did a ~50% water change. I also added a second powerhead to add flow. The clowns were quite stressed for all the stir and movement... but they were OK this morning.

 

xM3thoDx,

I have adjusted the skimmer and it's not as wet as before but it's sill quite clear (that is good, right?).

What kind of probiotics do you dose to your tank? Would they work for a fish only tank?

I just bought chemiclean but that will be the last resource.

 

 

 

 

3 hours ago, Opotter said:

I have a new tank cycling (first set up with dry rock).. also interested as well on what you are using for a probiotic! Your reasoning seems really sound.

Since your'e asking it's Dr. Tim's Eco Balance. Look it up and read about it, but there's more info about probiotics beyond the hobby. I've learned a bit about beneficial bacteria from farming, gardening, to how it helps waterways and bays.  If you'd like to learn more or I can give links, if you ask.

 

One thing I won't do is tell you what you need and don't need. Btw, there is nothing more basic than bacteria in our systems.

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Opotter

Thank you!  I appreciate the info!  I will definitely look into it and the research surrounding.  It sounded like an interesting theory that has some merit. We definitely use in human medicine and I and have a horse farm with horses that have greatly benefited from that addition to their diet as well.  Just sparked my curiosity when you mentioned reefing applications.

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Clown79
3 hours ago, GrumpyDaddy68 said:

Clown79,

 

Do I need to dose ALK and CA for a fish only tank? or this is only when moving to corals?

 

I only keep track on: Ammonia, Nitrates, Nitrites, PH and Phosphate. Should I be monitoring something else?

 

Thanks,

 

 

I don't think alk and ca is important to fish only. But coralline algae uses it, your waterchanges will replenish any use though because you don't have corals consuming it.

 

Bacteria supplements are always good, even pods for fish that eat them.

 

A refugium could be used for pods and nutrient export, it's a natural way of reducing nutrients.

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GrumpyDaddy68

Thanks Clown79,

 

A refugium is next in my list.

 

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