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Innovative Marine Aquariums

Something crazy is going on with my anemone...


Hami

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I am using my wells water... algae wasn’t this bad for the last few months... idk why it is know...I don’t have any power heads, but I didn’t think that I needed any since I had a hard time finding a place where my pulsing coral wasn’t being flatted by the current.

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2 minutes ago, Hami said:

Thee is a little more than 2&1/4 on both sides... my dad is a carpenter to we are good there

How do you want the tank to look? Shady spots? Completely illuminated? A lot will depend on that. 

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26 minutes ago, mcarroll said:

Is that 30" across the "light-portal" on top, or can you measure it?

 

I think Current USA Orbit IC Pro's (a two pack of strips + controller)  would be one good option to consider.

 

A second set of smaller IC's in the back would be a nice add-on.

 

Either a Model 4225 or 4226 for the front, depending on width.

 

You'd have to measure to be sure, but the smaller (18"-24") Model 4224 may fit in the back.

 

Looks like about $250 for the 4225 set.  About $150 for the smaller 4224 set.

 

If you're willing to remove the top then you can probably come up with a number of other good options.  As others have said, do some googling to see how others have mounted their lights....a bow-corner isn't that easy to light compared with a tank that has all 90º corners.

Is there a way to add a jump guard on an aquarium like mine? So that I could lose the top.

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39 minutes ago, Hami said:

I am using my wells water... algae wasn’t this bad for the last few months... idk why it is know...I don’t have any power heads, but I didn’t think that I needed any since I had a hard time finding a place where my pulsing coral wasn’t being flatted by the current.

When you get more powerful lighting, it will also help algae grow. 

 

You may get an explosion of algae once you upgrade the lights if your water quality isn't good.....

 

You probably should not be using any well water, at the very least you need to buy test kits to check it for Po4/Nitrate in the water. 

 

 

lighting, water, and flow are all important. 

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13 minutes ago, Hami said:

Would this light work for my tank I do know that it would fit the tank, but would it work with coral? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017GWDF7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fZmrDbW6YES70 

 

This one would be better because it has control built in. Has a $20 coupon. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SHR6HW1/ref=psdc_2975458011_t5_B017GWDF7E

 

I don't see why it wouldn't work. 

 

You will probably want a RODI machine to fix your water too. 

 

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4 minutes ago, Tamberav said:

 

This one would be better because it has control built in. Has a $20 coupon. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SHR6HW1/ref=psdc_2975458011_t5_B017GWDF7E

 

I don't see why it wouldn't work. Probably need to remove the top and just buy a glass top. 

 

You will probably want a RODI machine to fix your water too. 

 

How can I tell how deep the light will work

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17 minutes ago, Hami said:

How can I tell how deep the light will work

Optics and people's par tests are probably posted somewhere online. Low light corals on bottom and build a rock scape for higher light corals up on the rocks.

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What kind of filter is in the tank? What are you using in the filter? 

 

A nice budget friendly powerheads are hydor koralia and jebao. The jebao are controllable for a bit more than the koralia but either will work.

 

Flow is important in a reef tank. It helps with gas exchange/oxygen, brings food to corals, gets detritus to the filter.

 

I have seen the tank you have in person, it's fairly deep, not sure 1 Prime would cover the tank. Most use 3 par 38's on those.

 

A good budget light would be a Chinese black box like viparspectra or mars aqua. Budget friendly that are known to work.

 

https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Control-Dimmable-Aquarium-Spectrum/dp/B07SHR6HW1/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=viparspectra+165w+reef+led&qid=1564776520&s=gateway&sprefix=viparspectra+165&sr=8-3

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/MarsAqua-Dimmable-Freshwater-Saltwater-Thermometer/dp/B07LG613FW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=mars+aqua+165w+reef+led&qid=1564797812&s=gateway&sr=8-3

 

Now water source is another important factor. Your well water could have nutrients in it aiding the algae which looks like cyano and gha, caused by nutrients and lack of flow.

 

 

When you do your waterchanges, what is your process? Do you use a Turkey baster on the rocks and vacuum the sand?

 

I would start by adding more snails and hermits.

Blue legged and red scarlets are great hermits. 

 

Trochus, nassarius, cerith, spiny star astrea and turbos are good snails.

 

 

To get rid of the algae, you can scrape the glass while siphoning out the algae and vacuum the cyano off the sand.

 

To keep it under control will depend on lights, water being used, clean up crew, as well as maintenance routine/filter media.

 

Do you test for nitrates and phosphates.

 

One good piece of advice we all will give you as a new hobbyist, knowledge is your best friend in this hobby as well as patience and going slow.

 

Nano reef is full if great people, lots of great support. Read tank of the months, member journals, and stickied threads. All that info is really helpful when starting out, so many different tips and tricks.

 

Getting inspiration from others and planning on what you want your tank to look like and what way is best for you to run it, is a good starting point.

 

There are numerous ways to do a reef tank, you can keep things very simple or go all out, both work just in different ways😁

 

Never hesitate to ask questions, not a single question is stupid.

 

 

 

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I have a marineland filter, and I am using the 3 stage filter in it. I just bought a new light today... I test for ph no2 no3 kh gh and ammonia I am planning on cleaning the algae tomorrow and getting a larger clean up crew after that... thanks for all of the support 

image.jpg

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Consider getting a micron cartridge for it too if you don't already have one....helpful vs algae and parasite spores instead only ordinary mechanical filtration like most filters.

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That's it.

 

Running carbon in the other cartridge is nice, but shouldn't be required full-time, all the time.  Unless you have a specific use in mind (none at this point, just general filtration) once the water color has cleared, you can switch to the micron cartridge.  Once your algae is under control, you can decommission the filter until you need it again...or keep running the micron.  Easy to clean and keep re-using.

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12 minutes ago, EthanPhillyCheesesteak said:

Cute snail, maybe a type of margarita snail?

I’m not super well known with snails, so I may be wrong

 

9 minutes ago, mcarroll said:

Could even be a tiny turbo.

I only have the one turbo so that is probably what it is unless it came in the rock.... with brings me to the question how fast do they grow? I have had the rock since February, and I really doubt that it came on my first rock (January) and survived. Those shrimp for the cycling really stunk🤢

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Dang. 😞 Sorry.

 

Hopefully you know (knew) not to touch it with bare hands.

 

At least you have all the time you need to do any upgrades or changes you are thinking about.  No rush.  That's good.

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2 hours ago, mcarroll said:

Dang. 😞 Sorry.

 

Hopefully you know (knew) not to touch it with bare hands.

 

At least you have all the time you need to do any upgrades or changes you are thinking about.  No rush.  That's good.

I didn’t touch it ( used a spoon and a cup)... my new light should come in tomorrow  I think... and was planning on getting a larger clean up crew tomorrow... will be getting rid of my dottyback on September 7 (if all goes as planned) will go with cardinals probably...... thanks again to everyone on this very very helpful website 🙏😄👋

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