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Ronin859

New 15G Nano Reef

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Ronin859

I just got done testing my water and I was hoping someone could help me decipher what the results mean.

 

My pH has gone up to 8.4 and ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels have all dropped to 0.

 

I’m still using the API test kit for now.

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Clown79
2 hours ago, Ronin859 said:

I just got done testing my water and I was hoping someone could help me decipher what the results mean.

 

My pH has gone up to 8.4 and ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels have all dropped to 0.

 

I’m still using the API test kit for now.

Ammonia and nitrite being 0 after cycling is what you want. If you saw both rise and fall to 0, that's the normal process.

 

The only thing I can think of that would cause the nitrate to drop, is algae using up the available nutrients.

 

Depending on how you cycled, will depend on your levels. Most with dry rock dose ammonia like Dr Tim's and bacteria, you want 2ppm of ammonia to process in 24hrs.

 

Ph fluctuates all day long, effected by photosynthesis. 

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Coinee

Your pH can also change if you have the tank near vents or open/closed windows (pure air and carbon dioxide affect pH).

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Ronin859

I noticed my first little bit of green algae today.

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Ronin859

Did a good cleaning today (Rock, Filter, and Sand) and did a 5 gallon water change.

 

Took some advice and ordered an Inkbird Temp Controller tonight.

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Ronin859

I woke up to find my male Ocellaris had jumped out of the tank. This sucks.

 

I remember reading that they make diy lid kits, but I have no experience with them. If anyone has any ideas about getting a lid for my setup I would greatly appreciate it. I don’t want to add another clown until I can get one on the tank.

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seabass

Clownfish (as with most fish) can jump.  However, they are less prone to do so than many other fish.  I certainly understand your concern, and many people absolutely insist on a top regardless of the type of fish.  I've kept clownfish with open tops for years, although I have had one jump on me.  Currently, I have my pair in a tank with a top.

 

Having the HOB filter, clamp on light, and wet side powerhead will complicate making a mesh screen top.  An egg crate top should be adequate for containing clownfish (and is relatively easy to cut to size).  A glass Versa Top with plastic back trim is another option.

 

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billygoat

I agree that an egg crate top, while not the most attractive option, would be the easiest for this sort of setup, since you'd be able to easily cut it to accommodate your HOB filter and light clamp. The fact that your aquarium has a rim for it to sit on would make it slightly less unattractive as well.

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Ronin859
53 minutes ago, seabass said:

Clownfish (as with most fish) can jump.  However, they are less prone to do so than many other fish.  I certainly understand your concern, and many people absolutely insist on a top regardless of the type of fish.  I've kept clownfish with open tops for years, although I have had one jump on me.  Currently, I have my pair in a tank with a top.

 

Having the HOB filter, clamp on light, and wet side powerhead will complicate making a mesh screen top.  An egg crate top should be adequate for containing clownfish (and is relatively easy to cut to size).  A glass Versa Top with plastic back trim is another option.

 

The versa top may be an option. I’d hate to make the tank look like crap with an egg crate top. Any idea about the depth of the plastic piece you can cut? I want to measure all the stuff on the tank to make sure it will work.

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seabass

I believe the back is about 2".  Petco might have them in stock.  Maybe bring a tape measure to make sure.

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NaturallyKait

I have the DD Jumpguard pro on my tank. They have an optional cut out accessory pack to cut out around things like HOB filters and lights. I have one around the mount for my Kessil. It does cost extra, but it worked well for us. 

 

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Ronin859

After reading reviews I think the VersaTop should work, but I like the look of the DD Jumpguard better (not that much more $). 

 

I’ll be picking one of them up along with ordering an Oceanbox surface skimmer this weekend. After that I think all I really need equipment wise is an auto-top off for trips and I should be set for a bit.

 

I am still considering a Prime HD replacement for the A80 just so I know I won’t have to worry low light levels. I’ve had one comment about it not producing enough light (I’m probably going to get a Montipora of some kind down the road). 

 

Aug. 4th test results

 

SG 1.025        Temp 78 f

pH 8.0            Ammonia 0ppm

Nitrite 0ppm  Nitrate 0-5ppm

 

Also the diatom is basically gone and the green algae has taken it’s place. I added a turbo, but will probably give him back after it’s cleared up. 

 

I did notice that the turbo has coralline on his shell. How long would he have to stay in for that to spread to the tank?

 

 

 

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seabass
12 minutes ago, Ronin859 said:

I did notice that the turbo has coralline on his shell. How long would he have to stay in for that to spread to the tank?

I might take a long time.  However, if parameters are good and stable, and the surfaces are clean, it will eventually take hold.  You can scrape some of the coralline off the shell with a razor blade (I do it more like you would comb your hair than scraping snow off a windshield) to make it spread faster.  After you scrape the coralline, turn off your filter and skimmer for a couple of hours, but leave the powerhead running.  Still, it'll probably be a couple of months before you start seeing it elsewhere.

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billygoat

Coralline growth seems to be a cumulative process; the more you have in your system, the faster it will spread to new uncovered surfaces. This means that it is quite slow to start in the beginning, but once it gets rolling it should colonize your rocks more rapidly as long as sufficient resources are present. Scraping it and letting it proliferate throughout the tank can accelerate this initial phase, as @seabass mentioned. ☺️ Still likely to be pretty slow though!

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